How many joiner mallets could a joiner mallet join? permalink. embed.  There was an episode of Roy Underhill's called Big Ash Mallet that covers the reasoning. Can't find it on youtube. Further reading that might be of interest: www.- permalink. embed. I knew I'd want to make a joiner's mallet. This   I’ve wanted to make a new mallet for a while now and at last found a bit of time to take the project forward. I knew I’d want to make a joiner’s mallet. This style is the classic type that has been typically found in a carpenter or joiner’s toolbox for many a long year. I like this setup because I’m used to the feel and did not want to change the muscle memory I’ve built up over time. I raided the scrap bin and found a bit of ash for the Oak Joiners Mallet handle and iroko for the head. Making a wooden mallet is a traditional apprentice piece in which you can practice your mortise and tenons as well as shaping skills. It also provides you with a handmade and very useful tool to have in your toolbox for years to come. Paul shows you how to construct and finesse the shape of his favourite mallet design. Please note: This project does not have a downloadable drawing. Cutting List. Remember me. I also chamfered the ends of the handle then finished with basic sanding. The reason for this is joinner your mortice ends up a little wider or narrower than it should, you can trim the handle accordingly or ease its edges. The tapering will joiner mallet guide when you joiner mallet guide the wedges into place. I have one particular concern abot this build and a comment to pass on.

This simple project can be made in a day with basic tools, and in this case, made from firewood. Oak Firewood: free craigslist, look for dried, or something that has been sitting out for a year or more.

Chose a piece of firewood that you think you can get a mallet head out of. I like a piece of wood with figure and that will often make the head last longer, but it makes it more difficult to shape.

I chose the side that is closest to flat and then use a 5 heavily set hand plane or scrub plane to flatten that one side. This then becomes the reference side from which I make all my marks. With one side to measure off of, I mark on the end of the firewood the sides to be cut off. I start by cutting off the two sides 90 degrees to the reference face so that I can follow the line on the reference face with the saw. With the shape of the dimensions of the mallet shaped out, we need to cut either end.

I like to cut them at about 5 degrees, but again whatever looks good to you. I make the cut with a crosscut hand saw in the vice of the bench. I draw out the cut lines with a square and bevel gauge. You could easily cut a handle out of firewood the same way you cut the head out of the firewood. You want the handle to have a taper. This will wedge it in the mallet head so that it cannot fly off.

I made the cut with a rip filed panel saw in the bench vice. I use a marking knife to find the center of the handle and the center of the mallet head. Next, make a small nick on the other side of the handle at the bottom of the mallet and the top. This will let you know how wide to cut the mortise for the handle to fit in and wedge. Next, with a square, carry those lines from the nicks across the top and bottom of the head and then set the mallet across the head to mark out the second dimension of the mortise.

I like to start the cut with a brace and bit. This is the boring part. Next, use a chisel to remove the waste. After taking some out, I check the handle to make sure it fits. I chose the side that is closest to flat and then use a 5 heavily set hand plane or scrub plane to flatten that one side. This then becomes the reference side that I make all my marks off of. With one side to measure off of, I mark on the end of Concealed Joinery Hinges Guide the firewood the sides to be cut off.

I start by cutting off the two sides 90 degrees to the reference face so that I can follow the line on the reference face with the saw. With the shape of the dimensions of the mallet shaped out, we need to cut either end. I like to cut them at about 5 degrees but again whatever looks good to you. I make the cut with a Crosscut hand saw in the vice of the bench.

I draw out the cut lines with a square and bevel gauge. You could easily cut a handle out of firewood the same way you cut the head out of the firewood. You want the handle to have a taper. This will wedge it in the mallet head so that it can not fly off. I made the cut with a rip filed panel saw in the bench vice. I use a marking knife to find the center of the handle and the center of the mallet head.

Next, make a small nick on the other side of the handle at the bottom of the mallet and the top. This will let you know how wide to cut the mortise for the handle to fit in and wedge. Next, with a square carry those lines from the nicks across the top and bottom of the head. I like to start the cut with a Brace and bit. After taking some out I check the handle to make sure it fits. Then remove more until the handle fits nicely from end to end.

It should be difficult to drive it in and it should fit very tightly. I like the top of my mallet to look like it is rounded, but you can do whatever you feel like. This is quickly done with a 4 hand plane or spokeshave. Then just the 4 to smooth the other sides. I also like to put a very heavy chamfer on all edges. This is easily done with a block plane or spokeshave. This is a very personal step so everyone has a preferred grip.

It is meant to be held up close to the head unlike a hammer. But I just put a chamfer on the 4 corners where my hand connects with it. Then chamfer the edges of the bottom and top. My preferred finish for hand tools is Boiled Linseed Oil and paste wax.

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