Clam Clamp Miter Clamps create Perfect Miters Fast Clamping Window Casing, Clamping Door Casing, Clamping Crown Molding, Banded Panels. Our cam clamps increase your profits while achieving superb quality.  Miter Clamps are the best way to achieve tight miters. Clam Clamps are the world's best and fastest miter clamps. Specifically designed to simplify, improve and speed the assembly and installation of door casings and window casings, our cam miter clamps achieve perfect miters with one fast, effortless half-turn of the handle. Clam Clamps' unique cam design exerts such pressure on mitre joints that 5 inch wide door casings and window casings can be hauled around by one leg immediately after gluing. Spring miter clamps are a great tool for closing and holding miter joints tight during glue up. They’re especially useful for small moldings and profiles where other miter clamps can’t get a good hold. Watch this video to see how they work. Spring clamps are made of spring steel, and come with special pliers that insert into each clamp to open the jaws to apply them to or remove them from the workpieces you’re assembling. The clamps shown here, made by Collins Tool Co., have sharp points that stick into the workpieces, as do several other brands of woodworking clamps. What you will need: Sprin. The Miter Clamps - Vacuum Assisted consists of vacuum unit, which consists of battery operated vacuum pump together with vacuum reserve tank, pressure switch and vacuum gauge and four vacuum pads, (two corner pads and two single pads) together with legs containing threaded adjustments rods and rest arms for supporting aprons.  Miter pieces are installed finished side up and out so that you can see the seam and work with the glue for a finished piece. Specifications: Net weight: 12 kg. Skyline by DzinerStudio. WoodRiver - Extra Corners 4 pk. Hardened steel teeth penetrate the sides of the casings and draw the miter joint tightly together. Nail at the voor into each stud it helps to locate and mark these in advance and at the bottom door casing miter clamps guide the sole plate. Rather than standing out, It tends to accent, outline, and frame a room. Coping the joint solves this problem.

Ill sometimes cut and clamp them before finishing and then spray the whole thing, comes out beautiful. Jason Kehl Posts: I've got a dozen of them and love them. I use a pneumatic upholstery stapler and shoot a pile of staples across the backside of the trim with one staple leg on each side of the mitre. I got the idea for the staples on-line somewhere, maybe Gary Katz? Between the pressure supplied by the clamps, the glue and the staples it makes for a strong joint.

I find then process to be faster and better than the usual approach to casing. Well worth the cost if you install casing regularly.

Quote from: unityroad on September 06, , PM. Samo Posts: Sometimes a biscuit is better. Quote from: Samo on September 06, , PM. NERemodeling Posts: Miter clamps are great and I agree, while pricy, definitely worth the investment.

I have 6 of the Hartford miter clamps They are nice but I think if I did it again I would go for the clam clamps Also I'm gonna agree that biscuits are definitely nicer in casings than dominos.. View Full Details. Quick View Item Quick View Item 03W Quick View Item 07S Quick View Item 08A Details Reviews. Details Take the guesswork out of installing door and window casings with the heavy gauge steel and brass WoodRiver Miter Max Corner Clamp.

Reviews 5. Write a Review. Learn More. Customer Care Talk to a friendly customer care representative Door Casing Miter Clamps 2020 to help with your purchase. Talk to an Expert Get advice on the latest products and help with your projects. Sign Up. This allows the window to open and close freely.

Whenever a molding terminates without butting another trim piece, dress up the end with a return. To make a return in the window apron, measure the length and cut each end at 45 degrees as if you were mitering a baseboard corner.

Allow at least 6 in. Miter each of these scraps and glue them to their respective apron ends. Over a long period the glue will weaken, so rely on mechanical fasteners brads. They may be added while the glue is wet to help clamp the joint. Or you can add them after the glue dries. Then simply cut off the excess and install the apron as a single piece.

Mitered returns can come in handy in other places as well. Use them with baseboard and steal ends to avoid exposed end grain, as well as with more decorative moldings — base shoe, chair rails, picture moldings, and crowns. Raising it allows more of the narrow modem styles to show and provides a place to tuck the carpet edge as well. By planning the lengths needed you can also avoid waste. Then, when cutting and laying pieces out, select the most attractive for the most visible spots.

Hide the worst in the closet. If you have to splice, select pieces with similar grain and color so the splice will not be noticed. Begin installation with the most exacting pieces, the outside miters. Progress toward the easiest, the butt joints at the doors. Nail at the top into each stud it helps to locate and mark these in advance and at the bottom into the sole plate.

Use framing square as a saw guide for miter cuts. Saw from backside to avoid splintering. Adjust jig for 45 degree angle cut, insert door casing, hold tight against edge, and cut.

Adjust saw for miter and insert baseboard to be cut, again from the back. Use a sharp saw blade. Using a miter box The old hand miter box, available in plastic as well as wood both for about the same price.

Miter casing using pre-cut saw guides in wooden miter box. Use sharp, fine-toothed saw. File a back-sloping bevel on the cut face to allow the finished edges to close more tightly. Check the comer receiving the trim with your square to make sure it's 90 degrees. If not, compensate slightly on your cut.

File a slight bevel on the back of your cut to allow the front edge to close tightly. CUTTING: Door Casing Miter Clamps 90 coping inside corners Using a coping saw and a jigsaw Outline shape to be cut on baseboard with scrap piece or follow the line on the trim face left by a miter. Cut outline with coping saw. Slim, narrow blade cuts on pull stroke can follow tight curves accurately.

Cutting with jigsaw is faster, although not as flexible as coping saw. Tape protects baseboard finish. Test fit to scrap piece.

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