Reply Upvote. Glue them in place. About: I am a robot who lives on the moon and likes cheese and interesting things. Where you deem the scoring zones should be I did mine one The hard bit well I think it is.

The rebounder you see in this video is the m-station Talent Original. It was created for football, but can be used for all kinds of ball sports i.

His name is Villads and he's 10 years old. Ever since watching the men's European Volleyball Championship Finals in in Copenhagen, Denmark, he has been practicing in his backyard almost every day! With the m-station rebounder Villads can practice all he wants without a need for teammates.

Naturally he also plays with the local youth team but only a few times a week. Backyard Volleyball rebounder drill. Keep an eye out for Villads - this video will not be the last Backyard Volleyball- Snow edition.

Backyard Volleyball - drills on your own. Backyard Volleyball. No opponent? No Problem.. Just another day at the office Optional recommended Hammer nails in through the plywood and into the 'body' at regular intervals. Use however many you think you will need to make sure it never comes apart.

The hard bit well I think it is. Adding the veneer. If you used solid wood, then you can skip this bit. I used two pieces of veneer that run the whole length of the game. Glue them on and trim off any excess. It is better to do this that have a solid block of expensive wood because obviously that would be expensive. I used MDF for the body and covered it with a veneer. Optional recommended for advanced woodworkers : Well you could do it anyway but it's quite hard to get right.

Where you deem the scoring zones should be I did mine one Use a stanley knife craft knife or xacto remember to cut so that if you slipped it wouldn't hit you and run it along a couple of times lighter to make sure you have the line that you want before cutting the strip off the 'body' remember to only cut halfway across the 'body' so you only get the scoring zone on one side!

Now, get another piece of veneer of a different colour and making sure it has the right dimensions glue it in its place. Repeat with different colours of veneer to get the effect of light to dark for the different scoring zones. Or you could just do the same colour veneer for each. Up to you. Now you will need the two sets of edging that we cut in step 2.

You will need a strong wood glue, because nails would spoil the look. Fairly obviously, you have to glue the short edging to the short side and vice-versa. Now for the triangles. Ideally these would be made of the same wood as the edging, or the veneer or 'body' if you didn't use veneer.

Glue them in place. If they are slightly higher than the edging, then you might want to sand it down or something to that effect. Now to put in the pegs that the bands are put on. The rubber bands are what the 'pucks' are bounced off to get to the scoring zones.

You can see what I mean on the picture below. So first we need to drill holes for the pegs to go in. You will need to get a drill bit that is as close to the size of your pegs as you can get it. I used pegs that I got from school, but really any strong straight piece of wood would work, like a piece of dowel. Drill the holes parallel to the triangles, but a few centimetres away so you have room to put the band on.

You will need one hole at each end of the triangles, but again, do each one a bit away from the edge. The middle ones should have a few centimetres between them as well. Once you have drilled your holes, then you will need to glue the pegs in. If some spills over the top, just wipe it off before it dries. The Spine. The thing that stops you from just pushing the 'puck' across the board straight into the scoring zone without bouncing it off the bands.

You could add it on like that, but to improve the aesthetic quality of the game, you could round it off with sandpaper which would take a long time or a sanding disc or some other machine that has the same effect.

That's as in wood polish, not people from Poland. You will now need to polish the game a lot. Put a coat of wood polish on everywhere apart from the pegs and the bottom of the Diy Wood Shelf Bracket Ideas Volume game well the plywood bit. I put about 5 coats on in total. Perhaps the most time-consuming part of the project. Now for the 'pucks'. I made mine by getting a rod of plastic, and cut it up into slices about 6mm thick. I then drilled a hole in the middle of the slice that was just smaller than my ball bearing, about 1cm.

I put the ball bearing on the top and hit it with a hammer until it went in. That's how you make it so it never comes out. So, the end of the project. This is one of the hardest and most time consuming projects that I've ever done. There are a few things that I would like to say. Any suggestions below are welcome, any comments.

It would be good to know that someone has benifitted from this instructable. Until next time Et be talk loik a poiret day whenoi publesh thes enstruct'ble Translation: It was talk like a pirate day when I published this instructable. Some use 2 elastic bands at 45 degree angles like this plan and some use a single elastic band. Anyone have experience with both? Any advice about one vs. Has anyone considered building this on a larger scale with pool table bumper rubber.

And then using shuffleboard pucks, instead of the bearings. Thats how we envision it. Seems like it would hold up to commercial use.

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