If your jig has a fixed depth stop a cross bar that registers on the table front like diy circle cutting jig yang one does try adjusting the rear tacking bearings to nudge the blade forward or back. Plus the birch plies will wear better than the softer often poplar plies of cabinet grade plywood. Yours is MUCH better. I have always been into crafts. I glad you found it useful. Once I made the same adjustments to my saw, it cuts perfectly every time.

So when I want to use my jig I will remove the black plate and use this instead. To use it, I first measured down from my bit the radius I needed and made a mark. Then I found the center of the board and made another. Where these two lines meet is where I drilled a through hole. I was using a small picture hanging nail as my pivot point so my through hole was pretty small.

Next I went to my piece of material where I wanted to cut the circle and also made a through hole where I was then able to line up the nail in the jig with the nail in my material. I'm so glad I finally made one. It's a huge timesaver over my previous set up on using my router :. Great job! I've made a few temporary circle cutting jigs for my band saw, but I'm going to use yours as the basis for a more permanent one.

I anticipate only a few changes. This would keep it more balanced such that magnets are not needed. However, I will cutout a semi-circle above the left side of throat plate, so that dust collection can happen. Along with a slot behind for the blade, of course.

For smaller circles, mostly. Anyway, your details on the dovetail slider were very helpful, and it's a great project! I glad you found it useful. I really like your suggestions for improvements.

If I made it over again I'd probably extend it past the blade as well. Very nice! I'm going to make one of these, using your plan. You have a channel at the front of your bandsaw, you could slide-in something that locks it, rather than futz with the magnets. Btw, I love your push block. Very nice work! Love the attention to detail. Exact same principle as the one I built for my ghastly relic of a bandsaw Ryobi BSB but you spent more time making yours than I did.

A while ago, I made a circle cutting jig for my band saw. Yours is MUCH better. Question, unless I'm cutting very thin wood, when I try to cut the wood tries to push the blade sideways and bind up.

Any ideas? I just wanted to add I went to a Woodworking Show a couple years ago and sat in on a session of Alex Snodgrass' bandsaw clinic. That class was a gamer changer for me and there's a video of it up on YouTube here: I highly recommend you check it out. Hopefully you can get your bandsaw tuned up well. GoofyDave, I had a similar problem with my cheap-o Ryobi "hobby" band saw.

Once I made the same adjustments to my saw, it cuts perfectly every time. It's actually a useful tool for me, when it wasn't in the past. Thanks for the response. Funny thing about that video is that the saw he is demonstrating is very similar to my craftsman saw. For an old, hobbiest saw, it works pretty well. Thanks again. This is a common problem. Make sure you are using a sharp blade with the correct number of teeth. If as you look at it, the fence is to the left of the router, start at the end closest to you.

If the fence is to the right of the router, start on the end furthest from you. This will pull the router into the fence, which not only makes it easier to make a perfect slot, but is also safer. With the fence still in place, rout the smaller slot the in the same way as the first one. Drill holes for the mounting screws, making them just a little bigger than the diameter of your screws. Flip the base over, and using the holes as a guide, trace the baseplate on this side too.

Choose which side you want to moun the router on, and chamfer the mounting holes on the opposite side. You want the chamfers just deep enough that the screws will sit beneath the surace. Drill or rout out the center hole. It just has to be slightly bigger than the largest router bit you might use.

A hole saw is probably best for larger holes, but I used a twist bit, and it caught and made a pretty messy hole. It won't really effect anything other than aesthetics, but next time I'll take the time to get the correct bit out. I did clean up the hole a little with the router later. The mounting screws are most likely much too short to reach all the way through the base material.

We could buy longer mounting screws, but unless you have a set of really long router bits, the thickness of the base may limit the depth of cuts you can make with the finished jig. To solve both problems, I reccomend routing a recess in the base for the router to sit down in. After clamping the base to a work surface with the router mounting side up, rout out the baseplate area, using the line you traced as a guide.

It's easiest to start at the center and work around the the hole clockwise, sneaking up on the final size with a few light passes. Now the baseplate can be removed from the router, and the router can be installed in the jig using the baseplate screws.

Make sure all the screws sit flush with the bottom suface of the jig so that they won't catch on anything. While the easiest thing to do is buy Diy Circle Cutting Jig Pdf a t-handle or star handle for jigs, but I'm too cheap to do that, so I make my own. It takes a piece of scrap wood, a t-nut which costs just a few cents, and takes just a few minutes to make. I make them in bulk to use in all of my jigs, and I won't go into the process here.

It's easy enough to simply cut out a shape you like, drill a hole in the center to accept the t-nut, and hammer it in place. I didn't have any threaded rod, so I just cut the head off of a 3" bolt. Screw the nut onto the center of the threaded rod, and then place the washer on. Slide the portion above the washer up throught the slot in the base, and then screw the handle on to the top.

Alternatively, if you have access to a metal lathe as I do, you can cut the threads off one end of the threaded rod, making a smooth post of a specific size. That way you can use a drill bit that matches the specific size, and always be sure to have a nice tight fit.

The threaded rod with an appropriate sized drill bit should work well enough for most applications though. This step is entirely optional, but I thought it might make it slightly easier to use. The base had quite a bit of uneccesary wood, so I decided to cut it off, and round the corners. I also slightly beveled the edges on the bottom side with some sandpaper so that they wouldn't catch on anything as they slide around the circle.

The first step to using it is setting the post height. Measure the thickness of the material you'll be cutting a circle in. Adjust the nut on the post so that it sticks out slightly less than the material is thick.

Mark the center of the planned circle, and drill a hole that the threaded rod post will fit in snugly. Set the post at the desired distance from the router bit, and tighten the handle on top to lock it in place.

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