If you are a woodworker, I am sure you have heard or used the program. I usually reserve these ones for myself, friends, and display items if I were to ever set up a stall at an knofe. This mean't that the ferrule had to be longer on the new design to accept the entire blade. Below are some of my favourite screw ups. I wrote a post on how to layout for hinges davdi done this david barron marking knife 3d.

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Remember Me? Advanced Search. David Barron Marking knife. Thanks: 0. Likes: 5 Post 4 Post 1. Needs Pictures: 0. Picture s thanks: 1 Post 1. Results 1 to 6 of 6. Thread: David Barron Marking knife. Thread Tools Show Printable Version. Age 59 Posts 5, I'm teaching my daughter to do some turning and as a first project I thought we would make a marking knife based on David Barron's article.

Hopefully it should survive that process. I made another wabi sabi cabinet in my spare time, not much of that these days, but enough for one of these little cabinets. This one is for a retiring administrator in my school, it is my 3rd one so far. The frame and panel back is what is slowing me down a bit. In the future I might go with a simple panel for the back with a french cleat for wall attachment.

I have a friend who is making one for a Doctors stethoscope. Possibilities are endless. Oh that little handle on the door pull was hacked off my poor fig tree in my living room. That poor tree, it cringes when I approach it. I framed it with wood left over from her cabinet. Thanks Big Sis. Some drawer fronts out of Olive, straight from Greece. Got a chunk from Gary Chanin hardwoods in Edmonton. Dovetailing has been fairly successful, some grain consolidation and one tiny wedge. I added some sweep to one pin, just playing around to see if I could still do it.

You can see it in the pic above, that gentle little curve to the upper pin. If you read my blog post on using the maker bot you will remember the idea to use rectangular pulls on the doors. I made some out of Olive and placed them on the doors. Too refined I thought- not fitting with the theme of this little cabinet for my sis. I think she will like the hand carved pulls better. I also tried some Ficus, let me re-phrase, I also hacked apart my Fig tree in my living room and tried some real branches for pulls.

Drawers pulls were next. I was thinking a simple drilled hole, but I wanted to try a pull too. I will think about it more; the pull can always be removed and the hole drilled completely through. It might look cool with a porthole kind of pull.

I can never seem to make my mind up during these builds. The pull started out as a strip of Ash. I ran it over a ball end mill on my router station and shaped the top with a block plane and spoke shave. I cut the tenon first with a straight bit on the router table. I finished all the edges with my knife, homage to the man….

Used more Port Orford Cedar for drawer bottoms. Still plan on placing beach sand in these with some of Debs shells and sea glass. I will add some beach finds from myself and my parents for her too.

A family drawer and her drawer perhaps. Just a few more David Barron Marking Knife English details. I need to glue in the back panel and head off to school to use the mill for brackets for the back. One shelf will get some small starfish embedded and then a final polish with wax. I think she will like it because she had a hand in it. So it is that dovetailing these drawers has lead to a few problems.

Let me first state that making microscopic drawers also requires microscopic dovetails along with macroscopic eyeballs, which I lack btw. The picture is deceiving, let me clarify. I started my dovetailing day by honing chisels. In the pic above is an old Budda hand grinder I got from Ebay. It is pretty much as is except for the swiss pear handle I turned. I hooked up a grinder attachment stand from Lee Valley. This system is great for plane irons and chisels since the possibility of overheating steel is negligible.

This method of sharpening produces a hollow grind which allows me to free hand hone on my Norton Stones. Only thing missing in the pic is the leather strop I use for final polish. I have a chunk of super hard leather with jewelers rouge on it. Makes for scary sharp tools. As I mentioned, small dovetails present a few problems. The majority of dovetails saws are simply too awkward and too large for smallish work. In the picture below is the dovetail saw I made, layed next to my Lie Nielsen saw.

The blade came from a cheap hobby saw which I replace for a few bucks every year. The blade is a few thou smaller than my Lie Nielsen which makes for a super fine kerf. I begin by marking half pins and waste areas. I always do pins first- for several reasons.

I spend a great deal of time perfecting the shape of the pins. Once done the pins are never adjusted. Plus it is just easier tracing pins to tails. Try it, you might never go back. A helpful hint though- practice your sawing. Dovetailing is all in the sawing and how good you are with keeping your saw square to pencil or knife lines.

If you can cut a pencil line in half you are well on your way to gap free joints. Not a great picture but I wanted to show the technique I use to begin sawing, body position is so important when dovetailing. I clamp a piece of hardwood into my bench vise and bring the height of the piece to a comfortable level. Practice, practice, practice…. Block of maple clamped tight to the scribe line.

Using my plane Iron to bring the scribe line up tight to the block. Good insurance running a 90 degree block up tight to your scribe line. It helps to keep you square down the walls of the sockets.

Adding a super David Barron Marking Knife Github thin card scraper keeps you just off the David Barron Marking Knife 03 baseline. When done you remove it and shear the back wall smooth rather than chopping it. A great way to keep the baseline crisp and even. Running a wood shim that is an exact match for the web scribe line. This allows a uniform web rather than relying on your God given talent in keeping a chisel parallel to a scribe line. Not too bad one little nick where I went a little too deep while sawing. Some dustology or a small wedge should take care of that.

Work on Debra continues. I have been getting a few things done and trying out a few different door pulls. There is a picture down below on what that looks like, not sure if I am a big fan of the glass, I might change it.

Decided on inserting some mullions to the door glass areas. The idea was to fuse similar coloured starfish patterns into the glass panels.

I will think about sandblasting some designs or I may just leave the glass the way it is. Also began making shelf consoles to hold the two shelves in Debra. I decided on using some quartersawn white oak as it was a nice match with the bronze coloured striping in the Ash. I like to hand carve the consoles, and then run them through a piece of sheet metal that shaves them to the finished size.

I had 4 things to confirm there was a gap in the market. Firstly, I had seen how many knives David was selling after reading his blog a few years ago. Secondly, I had a larger following than he did at the time of selling his knives.

Thirdly, there was potential to make the blade replaceable which also had the added benefit of allowing the user to choose from a selection of 6 different blade shapes. Finally, I realised that it would be easy for me to make the handle and the ferrule fully customisable if I were to make these knives in-house.

I began working on a design for the knife, particularly the locking mechanism on the ferrule. I considered a collet, however there was no chance I could make one efficiently. I considered a pin that slots through the side of the ferrule and through the hole on the blade, secured in place with a magnet.

But this would easily get lost in a pile of shavings if dropped. Everything pointed back to my original design of using a grub screw to secure the blade in place. Of course a grub screw could easily get lost in a pile of shavings. But at least it was far easier to order spares online as opposed to a bespoke magnetic pin!

So I got to work re-designing my original knife and faced a number of different challenges. The original knife required the blade to be cut shorter before being inserted into the ferrule.

But I did not want people to need to cut down blades in order to replace them. Not only from a convenience standpoint, but also from a safety perspective. This mean't that the ferrule had to be longer on the new design to accept the entire blade. The nice thing about this is that it's added a nice amount of mass to the front of the knife so that it required less effort to cut, and feels like a higher quality item.

I wanted the grub screw to be in the centre of the ferrule along it's length. But after increasing the length of the ferrule, it meant that the grub screw hole was no longer aligned with the hole in the blade.

This was a big problem. If the grub screw was to be over-tightened against the side of the blade, there is a high chance the blade could chip and fill the blade slot with metal fragments. As you'll see later in this article, these are impossible to remove.

I tried so hard to avoid this being a carbon copy of David Barrons knife , but on the flip side there was so little I wanted to change about his original design because I loved it so much.

In the end I decided to remove the bead at the end of the handle, simplify the shape, I also removed the shoulder that leads the handle into a ferrule, and I was to offer it in a variety of materials. With the addition of a visible grub screw, the design is now noticeably different to Davids original. One thing I couldn't distance myself from was the thumb-hold. I thought it was genius. In addition, due to the fact my blade was removable, it meant that the blade could simply be flipped the other way around and it would be suitable for both right and left handers!

The lathe had sat idle in my workshop for 4 months while I gathered materials to test the first batch. And I decided to film my first ever attempt at using the metal lathe for Episode 12 of Turning Tuesday. At this point, the knives were complete secret. Barely anyone knew what I was up to! This is where the real challenges arose. I'm pretty sure I exhausted all potential cock-ups possible before finally coming out with a design and a process that works well.

Below are some of my favourite screw ups. There was a split in the rosewood that I didn't see. Suffice to say it didn't like the skew chisel touching it. I forgot to cut the blade slot before attaching the ferrule. Then ended up mashing it anyway I decided to highly polish the ferrule as an experiment, then proceeded to overtighten it in the chuck jaws The slitting saws I use are extremely flexible.

One second I was chamfering the copper, the next second my pants were brown. The shank was too tight in the handle, so I decided to machine it down slightly.

Ended up mashing the slot shut. When the araldyte joint failed, causing the ferrule to rotate around the blade holder. You could get a grub screw in that, right? When I forgot to set the depth stop on the drill and blew through the opposite side of the ferrule. One of the many occurrences where the tap snapped while cutting the thread. This is one of the most annoying! Aradyte rapid didn't work for the wood to metal joint either. These often launched off the lathe. When the slitting saw broke and I decided to mount it on the lathe afterwards as an experiment.

It didn't like it.

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