Woodworking dust collectors. Industrial hoses and sleeves Dust collectors, cyclone filters, dust collection systems Wood chip vacuum cleaners Woodworking dust collectors, other Still looking for. Woodworking dust collectors, other in Chelyabinsk. Woodworking dust collectors, other in Izhevsk. Woodworking dust collectors, other in Kirov. Woodworking dust collectors, other in Moscow. Woodworking dust collectors, other in Vologda. Ad type All ads. 3. The dust collection bucket needs to be checked frequently and emptied when full, so think carefully about logistics before locating a dust collector outside the shop proper. Be sure to plan for a way to turn the unit on and off remotely. And of course distance increases the length of ductwork, therefore airflow (CFM) may be lessened – so take that into account when sizing the unit.  Popular Woodworking offers two publications on setting up shop and dust collection. Check out “Workshop Dust Control” and “Ultimate Workshop Solutions” (for general shop projects). You will also want to download, watch and listen to the webinar I recorded. Plus, I try to answer all questions so feel free to contact me anytime or post your question here as a blog comment. –Steve Johnson. I have a PVC dust collection system comprised of 3" piping through my shop. It works pretty well, except I would benefit from a bit more airflow. I have two shop vacs, one of which is pretty much   I am new to woodworking and been having lots of issues with the dust being spread all over my single door garage. I mainly use a CNC enclosed in a box. Belt sander 9" cheap Bandsaw. We will respond to notices of alleged copyright infringement that comply with applicable law. This lets the blower housing and cyclone get removed without having to take down the heavy motor and impeller assembly. Created: March Updated: May 10, AAF will not commercial woodworking dust collection systems error liable for any delay or failure to perform resulting commercial woodworking dust collection systems error errir outside the reasonable control of AAF, including without limitation any failure to perform hereunder due to unforeseen circumstances or cause beyond our control such as acts of God, war, terrorism, riots, embargoes, acts of civil or military authorities, fire, floods, accidents, network infrastructure failures, strikes, or shortages of transportation facilities, fuel, energy, labor or materials. This makes them much easier to clean with either a little machine shake or blast of air. Submit Search. Sign up.

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They also warn that these impellers are not to be used on a vertical motor shaft because set screws cannot carry the weight of the impeller. When these impellers are mounted on a horizontal shaft the shaft carries the weight and there is almost no side to side pressure.

When mounted on a vertical shaft the commercial blower makers strongly recommend using a tapered shafted motor with a bolt which screws into the motor shaft to lock in the impeller or use a compression arbor similar to what we use in our routers to hold bits securely when mounting impellers on a vertical shaft. In short, I strongly recommend against buying any cyclone with an aluminum alloy impeller and instead buying a good well balanced steel impeller.

This is one of those areas where I provide far more information than many want or need to know, so the bottom line is if you use the Leeson 5 hp motor I recommend you use a 16" diameter impeller to get the maximum airflow and pressure from your motor.

This added airflow and pressure are important. The increased airflow does a much better job collecting the fine dust and the increased pressure permits you to use all 6" diameter ducting and still move over CFM to any tool in your shop.

How I got to this recommendation is a touch complicated. My engineering professor friends who helped me test every major brand and size of small shop dust collector and cyclone a few years ago were appalled at how poorly our small shop blowers were made. We actually had one small shop vendor who supplied exactly the same sized impeller with their 1. With our motors all turning at the same RPM for U. What was very disappointing was finding only the Delta, Jet and Powermatic impellers were actually properly sized for their blowers.

All others were either way too small or too large. An undersized impeller just spins leaving a good portion of your motor's horsepower unused.

An over sized impeller is required if you have a high resistance, but if it is tested without that resistance you get the incredibly high CFM numbers that so many of the less reputable vendors advertise. Worse, at these high CFM numbers from running in "free air" meaning with no resistance our motors are doing the most work.

In our testing we found a number of cyclones 3 hp and smaller that frankly were running such over sized impellers which cased the motors to run so far above the motor horsepower we had two motors burn up.

Talking with the testing groups that ran some recent woodworker magazine cyclone tests they had the same problem and burned up three cyclone motors when testing. Vendors simply used way over sized impellers and then choked them down in real use with undersized ducting to save their motors.

Unfortunately, they had to so choke down their impellers that not one in real use working against typical shop higher resistance levels with real ducting sized as they recommend moved a real CFM let alone the CFM we need for good fine dust collection. Because blower technology is mature, blowers of the same type and size provide near identical performance regardless of which commercial vendor we use.

This means we can look at any good commercial fan table and use that table to size our impeller, our ducting main and our motor horsepower requirements.

To use one of these fan tables we need to know three things, required minimum air volume, maximum resistance and minimum resistance. Air engineers long ago learned we must capture the fine airborne dust as it is made. A few of the newer tools such as the circular powered hand saw from Festool have proven that if tools are built from the ground up to totally contain all of the dust being made we can get excellent fine dust collection with a large shop vacuum.

Unfortunately, almost all stationary tools come with little to no fine dust collection built in. As a result these tools make so much fine dust that spreads so rapidly normal exhaust fans and air cleaners cannot pull the airborne dust level down fast enough to ensure passing an air quality test.

As a result, we have to collect the fine dust as it is made. Because almost every customer wants good fine dust collection without having to replace all their tools, air engineers long ago worked out how to ensure our typical stationary tool designs got good fine dust collection. To collect the fine dust at each source they found we have to start by making sure each tool is equipped with hoods that block all fast moving air streams.

Additionally, we also must surround the working area of each tool with a "bubble" of air moving at least 50 FPM to overcome normal room air currents. The size of this bubble is defined by what level of fine dust collection we want.

Air engineers did years of testing to determine how big of a "bubble" it takes to pull in the fine dust. Sadly most small shop woodworkers and even most vendors wrongly assume that the roughly CFM that provides excellent "chip collection" at our larger tools will also provide plenty of airflow to pull in the fine dust we know we can move with the lightest breath.

The problem with this assumption is we are thinking in terms of blown instead of sucked air. Blowing a directed stream of air will hold together for quite a distance, but sucking has the airspeed fall off at roughly twelve times the distance squared because the air comes from all directions at once. You can easily test this.

Wet a finger and see how far you can move it from your lips and still feel blown air. Try it again while sucking.

Almost all can feel the blown air as far as they can reach. Conversely, we can only feel the sucked air out to a couple of inches. To cover a large area with sucked air we have to move a large volume. We can pick which air quality level we want and then use that required CFM value with our fan tables to pick our impeller size.

Before we can use our fan table we also need to know the highest and lowest resistance levels in our shop. The resistance is a measure of how much work our blower has to do to overcome the friction in our ducts, to turn the corners through wyes and elbows, to pull through a restrictive hood, and to push through a dirty filter.

We measure this resistance in what are known as water column inches, meaning how high a blower would have to push or pull a column of water to overcome that resistance. We can add up the various resistance numbers by hand or do testing once we get our shop ducting built, but the most convenient way to calculate shop resistance is to use an already setup spreadsheet that lets us put in what we have then calculates the overall resistance levels.

A good static calculator such as the one shared on these pages shows that a typical two car garage sized shop will have a minimum resistance of about 4" when connecting to an adjacent tool with a new clean filter. Calculating the maximum resistance is a little more difficult. We have to calculate our highest resistance ducting run then add the resistance of our filter, which changes over time. We normally calculate the worst case ducting situation in our shops to allow us to later move any tool to any location.

Otherwise we would be forced to wheel our dust collector or cyclone right next to each tool. The maximum ducting resistance is for a distant tool that has two collection points like a table saw with both cabinet and over blade collection for a typical two-car garage sized shop ends up being right at 7 water column inches in most shops that use a 6" main and downdrops.

A 7" main often drops this to only 5 water column inches. Next, we have to add the resistance of our filter which changes over time. As our filters age, they build up dust trapped in the filter pores that does not come out with normal cleaning. This is called seasoning. The stuff trapped in the filter pores improves filtering by up to twenty fold in a fully seasoned filter, but also increases our resistance significantly.

It typically takes nine to twelve deep cleaning cycles meaning as much as a couple of years before small shop woodworkers fully season our filters. Our having to breathe the finest invisible dust known to cause serious health problems for a few years while waiting for our filters to fully season is why I strongly dislike most small shop vendors advertizing "seasoned" filtering levels.

Our small shop vendors almost universally ignore the ASHRAE standard that requires all indoor filters, meaning those used in our shops, must be rated when clean and new. Our small shop vendors instead rate their filters after becoming "fully seasoned". Anyhow, in terms of resistance most small shop fine filters start out brand new with only about 0. While in use our filters also build up a layer or cake of dust on the filter surfaces and this cake rapidly kills airflow.

The smaller the filter area the faster the dust builds, the more the airflow gets killed, and more often we must clean our filters. Unfortunately, the more often we clean our filters the shorter they last. Most larger woodworking facilities use pressure sensors that set off a cleaning buzzer when the filter resistance gets more than 2 to 2. Letting the dust build any higher kills the airflow needed for good collection.

Additionally, they also use these meters to show when it is time to change out their filters. As our filters age, they wear out meaning the pores get larger and larger until they no longer trap the finer particles. As the pores get larger the filter resistance drops as the air goes through with less resistance.

As soon as the after cleaning pressure drops more than 1 water column inch below the maximum seasoned rating, the filter has become so open it must be changed out. Most commercial shops must change out their fine filters roughly every three months of full time woodworking. So, to calculate maximum pressure we add the 7 water column inches for our maximum ducting resistance then add 2. This 4" to 12" average pressure range coupled with the to CFM is what requires us to use pressure blowers for dust collection.

The other types of blowers either move too little air like vacuums or like most squirrel cage fans and airfoil impellers just cannot generate enough pressure to overcome our normal ducting, tool, and filter resistance. We also know we need heavy duty steel material handling impellers to ensure we do not break our impellers with inevitable material hits.

We also need these material handling impellers to keep strings and shaving from getting caught on our impellers that would cause them to go out of balance and quickly ruin motor bearings. For our indoor dust collector and cyclones where noise is a serious consideration, we also want a backward curved BC impeller blade to minimize noise problems.

Finally knowing our airflow and pressures we can look up our needed information from a good fan table. Because material handling blowers are a very mature technology, looking at almost any major commercial blower maker gives near identical results.

So if we go to the steel pressure blower fan table shared by Cincinnati Fan we see by looking down the 12" pressure column the first blower that will move at least our needed CFM is SPB15 blower housing with a The blower table shows this impeller will move a real CFM at 12" and draws a real 3. That table also shows it will move this much air through a 6" blower opening which matches our main duct.

If we look a few entries lower in the table we see this same impeller and blower with a 8" opening and 8" main will move CFM and draw 3. This sizes our ideal impeller at It also sizes our main at 6", 7" or 8" and it also sizes our minimum down drop size to 6".

Anything smaller for a down drop will reduce the flow enough that there is not enough airspeed to keep the mains from plugging or building up ducting dust piles that pose a serious fire risk. To size our blower motor we simply look at this same impeller at our minimum resistance level. This Almost all small shop vendors error by supplying their larger cyclones with only 14" diameter impellers and only 2 or 3 hp motors.

We can use the same blower table and see that a 14" diameter impeller is so challenged by resistance that it does not even perform once over 11" of resistance. At 9" of average resistance it only moves CFM and draws 2. Next, look at what kind of airflow we get at the expected 12" of resistance with the typical two-car garage size shop longest ducting run.

At 12" resistance this 14" impeller moves so little air with such an unsteady flow that it does not even have a value in this table and will not even move enough air to provide the needed CFM needed for good "chip collection". Next look at that same table and see what happens to the horsepower demand when the resistance is at a minimum meaning only 4" with that 14" diameter impeller.

At 4" of resistance that impeller moves CFM while pulling 3. Now look at that same table at what happens during the vendor supplied tests that instead use the 8" opening and main that the more popular cyclones use and recommend. At 4" static pressure the airflow climbs to CFM while the horsepower climbs to 3. Because the normal fixed speed RPM induction motors we use to power our dust collectors are made to pull starting loads six or more times their running loads, our vendors can get by with quick tests at these kinds of horsepower loads.

Unfortunately, if these loads go on for a few minutes the motors will quickly overheat and burn up. The bottom line here is I have a really difficult time as an engineer wanting anything less than a 15" diameter impeller and good solid 5 hp motor for the heaviest used motor in my shop. I know that most don't want to spend more than needed.

When I first put up this web page in the only affordable sources for impellers were the 14" diameter impellers we could buy as replacement parts for the larger 3 hp dust collectors. My 18" standard cyclone plans work with these 14" sized impellers, but are best with the 15" and 16" impellers I designed. Since we now have good sources for larger impellers I strongly recommend using one of them to get the larger airflows required for better fine dust collection.

A few have made their own impellers but you need to know that the forces involved with a 14", 15" or 16" impeller turning at RPM are measured in the tons. I have already had one welded impeller I was testing fly apart from those turning forces. I have not hit the ground so quickly since in the Vietnam War. There was little left of my blower and I was amazed that the heavy PETG plastic used in Clear Vue Cyclones actually held up far better than the gauge steel.

The plastic was only scratched while the steel was punched clean clear through and badly ripped. Unless you really know what you are doing, making your own impeller or grabbing just any old impeller can be potentially life threatening.

I see no reason to take this risk trying to save a few dollars while making my dust collection system, so strongly recommend use of a good quality impeller designed for this type of use. With no other affordable sources available I used to recommend ordering the Jet DC 14" diameter impeller part number from Jet Customer Service at Costs now are about double that after a huge increase in the price of steel and much higher shipping costs.

To attach this impeller to your motor shaft you need a custom arbor. With too many unable to build their own arbors, I had a machine shop make up arbors and sold them at cost. These arbors worked but even with their special star tipped set screws that dig into the motor shaft they could let the impellers slide plus these screws need replaced every time you remove the impeller.

Otherwise the impeller can slip on the shaft, so I shifted to a good compression arbor. My machinist bought the compression arbors then welded a round plate with holes to match the Jet impeller. My machinist retired after being there for me for over thirty years, so the supply of these arbors stopped. One of my local friends Roy does a little machining and made his own Jet impeller arbor.

He is a very busy fellow and making arbors is not his priority, but he also likes to help others out. You can contact him at RMcbra aol. After a few years of a steady supply, Jet ran out of impellers and those of us wanting to build our own cyclones and blowers were left waiting for months.

After looking all over others found Cincinnati Fans sells a very heavy aluminum material handling impeller and a lighter air movement impeller.

Both came with warnings not to use them for dust collection because material hits could cause the impellers to explode. Many ignored my advice and used the less expensive lighter Cincinnati Fan cast aluminum alloy impellers. When challenged with all going right through the blower which happens with a plugged cyclone, full dust bin, bad air leak, or big surge of dust, these impellers were damaged with a few even exploded.

Even their heavier cast aluminum alloy material handling impeller should not ever be exposed to impacts, which means this impeller should be used after the cyclone and filter cartridges. Regardless, I worked out with their corporate headquarters an arrangement to let small shop woodworkers buy these heavier impellers from their local dealers for reduced costs. Because of the way their dealer arrangements work, most dealers still charged almost double plus shipping.

And yes, I know two other import firms sell impellers for less, but their quality just did not pass my inspection and with over twenty tons of force involved with a spinning impeller going with low quality or a poorly balanced impeller just makes no sense. The main advantage of these impellers is the light aluminum alloy construction permits the impeller to come up to speed quicker with less wear and tear on the motor.

The biggest disadvantage of the aluminum alloy impellers is the NAFTA no longer allows them in new systems for commercial use because when hit with metal aluminum impellers launch white hot sparks that can cause fires.

These impellers cannot be used directly as delivered because they need a different way to mount to the motor shafts see impeller mounting below. These impellers are designed for mounting on horizontal motor shafts. They use special Allen set screws with star points that dig into the motor shaft to hold the impeller from moving sideways.

These screws must be replaced every time they are loosened. With our cyclones we mount our motor shafts vertically. These screws do a poor job and were never meant to support the whole weight of the impeller.

Cincinnati Fan, one of the top impeller makers warns to not use impellers mounted with set screws on vertical shafts as these impellers can and will slip with catastrophic results! Many including me learned the hard way that set screw mounted impellers slip down the motor shaft and destroy the blower housings. In one of my test runs, I failed to replace those special star set screws as recommended and my impeller slipped down the shaft doing bad things to the impeller, motor, and blower housing.

This is why I made my housings with deeply recessed screws so the impeller blades hit wood instead of metal first, hopefully giving time to turn all off before a disaster. Anyhow, I quit recommending these aluminum alloy impellers after too many had problems. When Jet ran out of stock I paid to have a custom 14" material handling impeller built and certified by Sheldon's Engineering with a far better compression arbor.

After three years of sales I was about one third paid back when the engineer I worked with left Sheldon's and that firm was sold. The new owners stopped honoring our agreement and stopped carefully packing the impellers they shipped so most arrived damaged and people complained to me.

This never was intended to be a money making proposition, but I was not happy at covering that considerable loss and then having to do it all over again with another firm. Foolish or dedicated, I did so anyway for two more firms. I again subsidized the costs for test gear, testing, blower housing, and provided the engineering specifications. The first firm sent me an impeller that exploded due to poor workmanship in their welding and refused to make repair, so I moved on.

I now have a machine shop make impellers for us and also have another firm CNC cut MDF top and bottom pieces to easily make a blower to work with that impeller. Electric Motor Warehouse provides discounted motors with the right face frame mounting. In a cyclone this 5 hp motor actually was left with over 1 hp of unused capacity, so I engineered a 16" impeller.

It uses that extra horsepower, but does require a few changes to the cyclone design to get full use of that extra flow. As shared above if you step up to a bigger impeller, you also need to use different dimensions for your blower opening and motor plate from those shared below. Remember that these firms I have helping do small shop owners a favor. Please don't chase them away from helping us by burying them with questions and special orders.

After considerable experience and lots of testing with the 15" impellers I decided there was enough unused capacity in our 5 hp motors to turn a larger impeller.

My testing showed standard 16" impellers exceeded the capacity of our standard 5 hp motors, so I engineered a special 16" diameter impeller with slightly lower blades that provided additional pressure to move more air without putting our motors at risk.

This is the impeller that is now used in the Clear Vue Max cyclones. I recommend using this impeller with a left handed version of my cyclone design for both optimum airflow and separation efficiency. Alternative Impeller When Clear Vue closed for a short while my son went back into making cyclone kits. Over the years I had improved my impeller designs and had four really good options both left and right hand rotating 15" impellers and 16" impellers.

My son would only make one cyclone design, a single left handed 18" diameter cyclone optimized for both airflow and separation. Our blower template made blower housings for 15" diameter impellers. It was too small for the 16" impellers, so I engineered a special These have the advantage of fitting in the existing 15" blower housings with only tiny modifications to the hole that lets the blower housing slip over the mounted motor and impeller.

Anyhow, these move the same air as the 16" diameter impellers which is as much air as you can move without putting your 5 hp motor at risk. They are really great well built impellers made of heavy steel built like tanks and use the best compression arbors. They are ideal to upgrade your existing 15" impeller or to use in place of the 16" impellers.

I was talking with my machinist about my new cyclone project and he is still makes a few of the You will need to talk to them about pricing, availability and delivery.

I was stunned when my professor friends and I tested every major brand and size of small shop dust collector and cyclone a few years ago. Most of the impellers and especially the blower housings were incredibly poorly designed and even more poorly made. A blower impeller needs a shape that minimizes turbulence, but most small shop blowers had lots of rough edges, protruding rivets, etc. A blower housing requires a smooth spiral shape to provide a good steady airflow without causing pulsing which kills blower efficiency and raises sound levels dramatically.

Most small shop dust collector and cyclone blowers, in fact all the major brands except for Delta, Jet and Powermatic had blowers with very poorly made housings. Many did not even use spiral shaped housings but instead round housings with the impeller offset to one side. Most blower housings forced round into square ducting and had very rough ridges, loose metal, and other junk pushed right into the air stream.

The engineering professors I did this testing with were amazed. They said blower technology is mature and just about any engineering graduate can look up what it takes to make a far better material handling blower.

What we found with our testing is only those three vendors had performance that matched industry norms and all others were below, some very badly. The worst was that highly rated aluminum impeller cyclone that used a circle shaped blower with an impeller that had the support castings for the blades in the middle of the airflow. Acquire required parts.

Carefully build the blower housing and solder the connectors. Caution - do not install the impeller until you have tested the motor for turning in the correct direction. If the impeller is on, it can destroy your motor and severely hurt you! With no impeller attached fire up the motor. It goes counter clockwise when looking at the impeller with the motor behind just like my Jet impellers.

Safely install the impeller on the motor shaft, but do not turn on the blower until you have attached ducting and cyclone.

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