Fusion Flat Patterns and Box Design.  How to cut moving bevels on ship planks for wooden boat building with a customized ship saw. Rod's Woodworking Shop - Free Simple Wooden Box Plans. Anyone Can Produce This Simple Wood Keepsake Box. Home Page. Archway Bench Bird House Book Case Book Stand Boot Rack Box Caddy Coat Rack Computer Desk Corner Shelf Cremation Box Dresser Feeder Firewood Box Flower Box Gun Rack Keepsake Chest Medicine Cabinet Microwave Shelf More Free Plans Murphy Bed Picnic Table Plant Stand Plaque Potato Bin Pull-Out Shelf Saddle Rack Safe Room Door Shelf Shield Shoe Rack Simple Bird House Step Stool.  1" (7/8") x 6" x 30" Pine (or wood of choice): One Piece for the Front, Back, and two Sides. 1" x 10" x 24" Pine (or wood of choice): One piece for the Top and Bottom Panels. - Просмотрите доску «Wooden or plywooden packaging & box» в Pinterest пользователя Evgeny Trenikhin, на которую подписаны человек. Посмотрите больше идей на темы «коробка, упаковка, ящики».  Bonbonbon wooden box packaging. Our bonbons needed a new system in which they can be stored and served in coffee shops as well. We teamed up with Zsófi to help us create the new packaging for this www.- result of our joint forces became a hand crafted (bonbon) box made from cher Проекты Из Дерева. Изделия Ручной Работы Из Дерева. Did this summary bujld you? Follow Us. Before making a wooden box, choose some wood and gather your tools, including a hammer, nails, wood glue, and a saw. It's a 65 clone of a GT From a safety standpoint, the gap behind the table saw blade combined with the short, thin build a wooden box 360 pieces made the hair on the boox of my neck stand up. Why use your band saw to make that large cut and not your table saw? All of us have made boxes of one type or another.

From there I used a couple spacer blocks at my miter saw to cut the four box sides. However, quite a few people on instagram told me that there is a way to do a 4 corner continuous grain with no start and stop points. At this point the sides looked a little tall so I trimmed them down at the table saw.

Just whatever looked appropriate. Then I tilted the blade to 45 degrees and cut a test joint to make sure everything would line up. It worked out really well. I wanted the top and bottom to be the same material and glued in a rabbet but in order for this to work I need to make veneer and glue it on plywood.

After those panels dried I used one to set the height of my table saw blade and cut a rabbet the same depth as those panels on the top and bottom of all of my box pieces.

Then tape can be used as a clamp to roll up the boxes with glue in the joint. I find a cheap paint brush to be perfect for applying glue in these situations. Next up the plywood panels can be sized to fit into the top and bottom rabbets. This allows me to take two passes to create a symmetrical rabbet on the entire top and bottom perimeter. I wanted a high contrasting wood to inlay in the rabbets so I chose walnut.

Because my shooting board is set up for right-handed use I worked clockwise around the box when fitting the walnut. First cut a rough 45 degree angle with a saw, make it an accurate 45 degrees with the shooting board, put it in place and use a scrap piece with an accurate 45 degree angle to see if the piece is the appropriate length, and then trim down as needed until that piece has perfect miters on both ends.

Once a piece is fitted use a couple of pieces of blue tape to hold it in place while you work on the next piece. Then use the tape to lift the piece out of the rabbet, insert glue, and then tape it back down. With the walnut glued in place I alternated between a couple of hand planes to trim it flush with the box. To prevent tearout I planed into the corners in a couple of situations and when I was getting down to the last little bit I used my block plane in such a way that at the end of the cut I skewed the plane similarly to a paring cut with a chisel to slice away the last corner and reduce the chance of tearout.

I used the table saw to separate the lid which is always a little nerve-racking. Then you can break the pieces apart with a sharp utility knife.

This worked really well. A little bit of sanding to remove the saw marks and then the hinges can be installed. To layout the hinges I first marked the same distance in from each side with a marking knife.

Then the hinge itself can be traced with a marking knife and a wide chisel can be used to make the knife lines a little bit more pronounced. With the geometry established I set a router to a depth of half of the closed hinge and carefully removed all of the interior material making sure to not touch the layout lines and not rock the router any.

Then a sharp chisel can clean up the mortise quite easily. I used an awl to mark the screw holes slightly offset to the inside of the box. That way when the screws are driven down the head of the screw will force the hinge to seat tightly into the inside face of the mortise.

After a little bit of sanding I applied a couple of coats of shellac. I have planed a lot of highly figure curly maple and birds eye and there is a trick to doing it successful.

You will need a cotton rag and a bowl of water Every time you make a pass throw the planet the entire surface needs to be damp. This merged also works on the edge for jointing. The box I'm building here is a specific size and shape. Feel free to modify the size to fit your needs. I've made boxes this way using various hardwoods and the results are exceptional! I'd recommend using walnut or oak if you want an outstanding box! This is handy way indeed, buddy showed this method way back.

Do you add any reinforcement for miter joints? Fine box, easy method. Now, is that a '66 GT and can I make one of those on my table saw? Reply 4 years ago. No it's not a It's a 65 clone of a GT When you are making a mitered corner box like this it is just as important to have the sides equal length as it is to have exact 45 degree angles.

The idea kind of died already at the second step - when I apparently need some huge expensive machine to cut the wood Cheaper to let a professional make it then. How about a miter box and a saw instead? If you already have a router, a slot cutter bit works just as well.

If you don't have a table to mount it on, you'll need to do a bit of creative jigging, but it's doable. Then you will need a router to produce the rabbet to insert the top and bottom and be very accurate when hand sawing the lid off It doesn't really have to be that expensive. I partly agree. Ah well! You can't do this with a mitre saw or by hand either, because you can't put the slot for the lids into the board.

However, if you bought a bit of pre-grooved wood then you could. Might be worth looking around at the various bits in the architrave section at the DIY store. Well, you can cut it, the slots need to be made with another tool I guess, unless it's simply mounted on top and bottom - which may not matter that much of you paint it afterwards. I have made many boxes by this method and they are always very satisfactory, but as mentioned by wb8nbs glueing end grain, especially pine or spruce, makes a weak joint.

One tip I should like to suggest is that when cutting off the lid, after the first side has been cut, put something stiff across the cut and stick it in place with masking tape. This is to prevent the cut closing up and resulting in a deeper cut on the last side - as can be seen on the last photo on step 5. That's a good suggestion to put a spacer in the cut lines. I've done that with larger boxes or ones with a more decorative wood. I'll often add splines to the corners for strength.

Make sure to cut equal grooves into three sides of your box. Cut the front side of your box. First, take one of the sides that you've already cut a groove into and measure from the top, where the lid will be, to the bottom of the groove you cut. Use the same distance to cut a straight horizontal line across the top of your box front. After this point, you should be able to test sliding the lid into the grooves and over the front if you clamp the sides together.

Make sure the grooves are facing inward. Secure the sides to the base. Cut the groove for the lid. If you want your lid to be flush with the sides of the box, use a saw to cut a groove along all the sides of the lid but the front. Slide the lid into the groves and over the top of the box.

For example, when using plywood, mark out the width of the wood before you attach the other side, and mark where you should put your nails, and how many depending on size. Not Helpful 0 Helpful 6. Yes, but it will take more work with the hand saw.

Also, precision cut will be very difficult. Not Helpful 3 Helpful It depends on how big you want it. The measurements I used were 9" x 8". Not Helpful 0 Helpful 5. Use the same method, but make it larger and used a hinged top.

Not Helpful 2 Helpful 4. Hard plywood will last much longer and hold its shape and remain stable better than softwood. Hardwood looks cleaner than softwood but it just depends on the purpose of the box.

Not Helpful 0 Helpful 0. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. By using this service, some information may be shared with YouTube. Submit a Tip All tip submissions are carefully reviewed before being published.

Related wikiHows How to. How to. More References 1. Videos provided by WoodWorkWeb. Co-authors: Updated: February 15, Categories: Making Wooden Boxes. Article Summary X Before making a wooden box, choose some wood and gather your tools, including a hammer, nails, wood glue, and a saw.

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Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read , times. Thanks, this really gave me confidence to try. More reader stories Hide reader stories. Did this article help you? Cookies make wikiHow better. By continuing to use our site, you agree to our cookie policy.

About This Article Co-authors: Ginette Cyr Sep 27,

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