This one has thickness of 0,4 mm. If you get inconsistent results, just keep on practicing. Instead of throwing away old jointer blades, I sharpen them and use them for scrapers. No way! Scrapers bfst be pushed or pulled as you please.

We often think of sandpaper in its myriad grits as the ultimate finishing material, we start with an aggressive 80 grit and work up to grit, often pushing on in successive steps until we find grit is really too fine for wood fiber although great for finishes.

But just as many an old-timer knows that the best surface for gluing is freshly planed wood sliced off with a sharp blade, so in times past it was known that wood scraped with a broken edge of glass or the finely curled edge of a steel blade will leave a perfect surface ready for finish — and this done in a few deft strokes. It is true, getting an even surface overall with scraping takes some practice, and not all wood responds equally well to the scraper blade.

But scraping produces a fine and smooth surface like no other, since there are none of the sharp, projecting abrasive points which are what makes sandpaper work.

A sandpapered surface seen with a microscope looks like a saw blade, the finer the paper the finer the saw appearance, but the scraper leaves a surface as smooth as the scraper edge, that is all there is to it. You can buy from a tool house for a few bucks a scraper blade, but that is insufficient because scrapers like people come in all sizes and shapes.

You need a dozen scrapers in widths from an eighth-inch to an inch and a half, some dead flat, most with a lilt at the edges to avoid digging in, many with a very slight convex bow to feather out a one-inch wide strip which you will use for flat work. Get an old rusty saw which has good steel, if it is thinner at the tip and back than at the teeth it is probably excellent old steel, but you can use anything you have at hand for a start.

Shear off the first half-inch at the teeth, old saws often have some hardening at the tooth and this is too hard for the next process. At this point you have a dozen or more blanks, first thing is Best Wood Scrapers to touch the sheared edges to a belt sander to remove the burr which can cut your fingers, and round slightly the back corners. The traditional way is to hold the piece in a vise with half an inch sticking up, take a single cut file with just slanting teeth on it and draw file the edge, which means slice the file across the work sideways, so the teeth have a smooth shearing action.

This produces a dead smooth edge which is what you want, but in this case, proceed with successive slices until you have something like a degree angle. Now you will need a piece of half-inch round steel which is very hard, to roll a curled edge off the top of the blade, it is this curled edge that does the scraping. Actually it is not scraping at all, it is shaving or even planing off a minute curl of wood from your surface, often less than half a thousandth of an inch.

I have taken one of the old steel knife-sharpening irons which came with carving sets, removed the deer horn handle, put the steel in an electric drill, and let it rotate again the worn belt of my running belt sander until it is smooth and polished all over.

Since you want only half that length, you can make a deep groove around the middle with the corner of your grinder wheel, and then snap it in two in the vise with a pipe, but wear glasses and use care. With this hard roller you will start rolling at 15 degrees and with each pass across the prepared edge go a degree or two towards the horizontal perpendicular to the scraper. Draw-filing works, but I find it much better to use the dullest, most used belt I have on hand on my belt sander to shape the edge to the required degree angle.

Second I can make a slightly convex contour, Best Woodworking Roller Stand Generator so the Best Wood Scrapers 01 actual cut is at the center third of my scraper width. This avoids digging and also gives a narrower cut, which provides more cutting pressure while giving me a decent-sized scraper to hold with both hands firmly.

And I can also use the belt sander to remedy the matter of an overly hard material as noted above. I hold the scraper firmly against the belt at 15 degrees, but continue pressing it until a faint blue color appears at the very edge, then stop immediately.

Second go over it all over with a inch long wood-bodied plane with blade set to a slight cant, proceeding across the board at 45 degrees to the grain in the direction of the cant.

Then the portable belt sander can be used to see if any ridges were left, then the random-orbit sander with grit all over to get things down to near the finished planarity. And THEN I started scraping with a broad scraper, curling off paper-thin shavings of wood until I have produced a clean, clear surface.

There may be a touch of sandpaper here and there, but always the newly sharpened scraper again for the last touch, and I am ready for the finish. Because the grain is left clean of sanding dust, there is no powder of wood and worn abrasive particle stuffed into the natural grain of the wood. On a scraper the "burr" is actually the clean, smooth and continuous cutting edge created by filing and burnishing. You're going to use the burnisher very gently to push that cutting edge up to form a tiny, sharp hook that runs the full length of the scraper.

The edge you're about to work on is sharp, which means there's very little steel right out at the cutting edge—which means it takes very little pressure to push it up into a tiny burr. Applying no more than about 8 ounces of pressure, stroke the edge full length five to ten times. Now wipe off the oil and feel the results.

The burr should hardly be big enough to detect; it should feel mostly just like a very sharp edge. A distinct, heavy burr won't work well at all, so if you've produced such a thing, use the burnisher to lay it out flat and try again. Turn a burr on all four edges, so you'll be able to do plenty of work before you need to start over. As you use the scraper, its tiny edge won't last terribly long, and eventually it will begin making more dust than shavings.

At this point you probably won't have to resharpen unless you've be doing something rough such as scraping glue squeeze-out, which might have damaged rather than merely dulled the edges. Lay on a smear of oil and use the burnisher lightly to lay any remaining burr out flat.

Now repeat the process of burnishing and turning the burr just as before. Often you'll be able to do this several times before the edges are worn beyond easy repair. Then it will be time to pick up the file and start from scratch. Scrapers may be pushed or pulled as you please. Pulling is the soundest way to scrape large flat areas efficiently.

With eight fingers distributing pressure evenly behind the blade, lean the top edge toward you as you pull it along the grain. To avoid creating a washboard effect, skew the scraper slightly, first to the left for a couple of strokes, then to the right, rather than facing it consistently perpendicular to the grain. Pushing the scraper, with your thumbs bowing the center forward, narrows the cutting area and allows you to work very precisely, removing material from a narrow line or a specific spot without disturbing the surroundings.

The scraper's high cutting angle makes it generate a lot of heat; it doesn't take long for your thumbs to start sizzling.

A scraper holder, such as our Best Wood Scrapers Uk Veritas model, lets you push or pull the tool as well as control the degree of bowing, without roasting yourself in the process. High Friction Finger Wrap Tape can also protect against heat buildup. Many wood finishes, such as lacquers and varnishes, can be scraped smooth between coats faster, flatter and with more control than with sandpaper.

Start by scraping across both ends of a piece; it's hard to start at the end without cutting too deep. Then scrape full length, skewing the tool and overlapping strokes just as on bare wood. A quick lick with grit sand paper or a medium Scotch-Brite pad completes the prep for the next coat of finish. Work at a moderate pace and be sure the scraper is sharp to avoid heating and scarring a fresh finish.

If you get inconsistent results, just keep on practicing. Troubleshooting is easy, because there aren't too many things that can go wrong. Most often you'll try to fool yourself into believing you've sharpened well even if the filed edge doesn't really feel sharp. Sometimes you'll apply more pressure than necessary when turning the burr, and wind up with too coarse an edge. Try again; the rewards are worth much more than the work.

Norton Publishing Wall Lenk Co.

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