woodturning tools в каталоге товаров на - Купоны и скидки. Быстрая доставка по РФ. Настоящие отзывы покупателей.  Закажите woodturning tools онлайн с доставкой по России: товары с пометкой Plus доступны с ускоренной доставкой и улучшенными условиями возврата. На Алиэкспресс woodturning tools всегда в наличии в большом ассортименте: на площадке представлены как надежные мировые бренды, так и перспективные молодые. Turning Tools: Turning requires a completely different set of tools and can be confusing to the beginner. Cut through all the confusion to learn what’s really needed. Woodturning Tools for a New Turner.  There are many other woodturning tools that can be added to the tool kit later. Many tool manufacturers make and sell specialty tools for specific purposes.  This makes the tool more versatile. Various bevel angles are often ground on them but I suggest using a 35° angle to start. A detail gouge is a variation of a spindle gouge where the main differences are a shallower flute with longer fingernail grind with a 30° or finer bevel angle to make the tool more versatile for cutting crisp details. The flute has a heavier cross section to allow a longer extension over the tool rest while cutting. Cheap Tool Parts, Buy Quality Tools Directly from China Suppliers:New 3Pcs/set Sharpening Grinding Jigs Attachment Kit for Woodturning Tools, Woodturning Gauges and Grinder ass Woodworking Enjoy ✓Free Shipping Worldwide! ✓Limited Time Sale ✓Easy Return.  New 3Pcs/set Sharpening Grinding Jigs Attachment Kit for Woodturning Tools, Woodturning Gauges and Grinder ass Woodworking. (0 votes) Store: Sharpening tool Store. US $ RichColvin said:. I recommend experimenting. I do buff my chisels using some autosol on a piece of leather to take the fine burr off but wonder if I would get a better cut leaving them unbuffed. A blunt impact may remove wood quickly, but it will also woodturning tools grinding angles 10 and deeply tear fibers away. I believe most expert spindle turners have theirs a bit more acute an angle than I have mine Once I returned home I woodturning tools grinding angles 10 grinding and using 40 degrees as the angle for all of my gouges with the exception of one gouge which is ground at a much higher degree 65 for getting down in those deep and steep areas of the bowl walls.

Somewhere in the middle will work better. We are looking for a blend of sturdiness from the tall upright angle but with enough angle to present a firm cutting edge and create a nice cutting angle. And as you also might imagine, with woodturning tools there is no one correct angle. An angle around 65 to degrees works for me, however, you might find a different angle works better for you.

The real answer to the scraper bevel angle is to try an angle that works for you and stick with that angle. And keep this in mind, when you see a video or watch a demo, and the presenter says your scraper bevel angle must be X degrees. Just smile and know that your angle works just fine, even if it is different than their angle.

We are essentially introducing a hard steel edge into a turning chuck of wood fibers. While the technique for using a scraper is important to understand and spelled out here in this article , we need to know what is happening. Based on the angle of approach and the type of wood, we can expect the steel tool to do far more damage than good. The answer is at the micro level, with the tiny burr that is formed at the top edge of the bevel. This burr acts like a miniature knife and slices at the wood fibers.

We will talk more about how to establish a burr in a moment, but for now remember, we need to know a burr is necessary to cut fibers instead of just scraping or ripping them away. Because the burr on a scraper edge does not last long and deteriorates quickly, we need to clean and clear away the old burr area. If you are happy with the angle of your scraper tools, simply match that angle at the sharpening grinder wheel.

Use the flat platform support on the vari-grind sharpening system to support the scraper during sharpening. Check out this detailed article. With the sharpening grinder wheel off, I usually loosen both the platform and sliding arm locks to freely move the platform to the desired angle.

Then I hold the scraper on the platform and adjust the position until the front bevel angle is flush against the sharpening wheel surface. Turn the grinder on and gently touch the scraper bevel to the sharpening wheel. Look at the bevel edge. If only an area on the top or bottom of the bevel was stripped from color, then adjust the platform further until the bevel is flush with the sharpening wheel.

Also, it can be helpful to bring a light source close to check for any gaps between the scraper bevel and the sharpening wheel. Now, adjust the Woodturning Tools Grinding Angles Us protractor to the angle you would like to change the scraper bevel and lock the protractor. With the new angle locked in, position the protractor at the bevel edge of the scraper and take a look at the gap created.

This new edge will require grinding more material on either the top or bottom edge of the bevel. Transfer the new angle to the grinding wheel platform. Use the more coarse grinding wheel to shape the scraper and the finer sharpening wheel to sharpening the final edge. Place the scraper firmly to the platform and simply contact the scraper bevel edge to the sharpening wheel gently.

You do not need to apply force while sharpening. Round nose scrapers need to be evenly pivoted from left to right matching the curved shape of the tool nose. Once a new, fresh, shiny edge is applied to the bevel edge of the scraper, the sharpening process is complete. Important Side Note — Wear your protective safety glasses and respirator while doing any work at the sharpening station. Wood dust is hazardous and must be avoided.

Metal dust from the sharpening wheel is even more hazardous. Protect yourself. You can test this yourself by running your finger over the front top cutting edge of the tool before and after you hone it smooth and after you sharpen on the sharpening wheel.

What I am saying Woodturning Tools Grinding Angles Quote is that each different angle requires different handling to achieve results and learning to use that angle is critical to success. Bill Boehme Administrator Staff member. I think that I have seven or eight and still looking for the one that will be my key to greatness. I use a Tormek for most of my sharpening so the edge angles don't drift much. I've been putting a pulled bur on all of my scrapers for at least a decade using a burnishing rod.

He demonstrated that a grinder "bur" will only last for a few seconds while the hand formed bur aka, pulled bur will last 45 seconds for the wood that he was turning. Lately I've been changing things slightly. Mostly due to sharpening ease. I used to have all sorts of angles. Whatever I thought best for that tool. This required having different jigs to set the Oneway Wolverine jig or moving to another sharpening system.

Now I'm going back to what should be. Ease of sharpening so it becomes a very simple task that can be repeated accurately and with minimal effort. So what I'm using right now is the slow speed grinder with the Oneway system. I have the V arm on one side with a CBN wheel. The V arm is locked in one position and never moves. It sharpens my swept wing bowl gouges at a 55 degree nose or close I wasn't picky when I set it I had been using the same grind and clamped the arm there.

To sharpen my spindle and detail gouges which are 35 degrees I use the same V arm setting but put a V block in the V slot. I put the Wolverine jig in front of that V block. This moves the spindle gouges up the stone to give me the 35 degrees.

On the other side of the grinder is a grit white wheel. It has the Roborest set permantly at 45 degrees. Because of the way it bumps against my Oneway jig I can lock it in the same position all the time if I have to remove it. This position actually gives me less than 45 degrees but not I sharpen my Stewart batty ground bowl gouge and one wide spindle gouge free hand at that setting.

This also works great for my negative rake scrapers. I have ground them on both sides to that same angle so when I wear the burr off I just flip the tool and grind the other side for a new burr.

I hone my skews for the vast majority of it's sharpenings so I rarely have to use the Roborest in that position. Parting tools are sharpened free hand. I have 6 that for whatever reason have a slightly different grind. It's easy to just do those by eye and feel. I'm still playing with the strip sander and Tormek.

I'm leaning toward the Tormek but just don't have all the jigs I need to true the stone and do bowl gouge grinds. I will let you know what I think once I get all of these which of course costs way too much money I didn't like the Tormek in my old shop because I had to remove the water each night during the winter because my shop would freeze on occasions.

In my new well insulated shop that isn't a problem so I'm going to see if leaving the water in there is a good or bad thing. My Hunter tools of course all stay the same angle about 30 degrees and never need sharpening.

You shouldn't leave the wheel sitting in the water overnight or else you will wind up with the wheel frozen to the shaft because of corrosion even if you have the stainless steel shaft with the LH threaded EZ Lock nut. But you don't always need to completely remove the water tray Once you get proficient you will be able to smoothly move the tray up and down and latch it in place with the greatest of ease.

If your Tormek is an older model like mine that has the older water tray without a magnet to collect the filings, here is a solution that I posted in the Tormek forum about nine years ago: Many Tormek users place small super magnets in the water tray to collect metal filings which helps to keep the stone clean.

However cleaning the fine metal powder from the magnet is a messy and somewhat tough job because of the high strength of the magnets. I used a product called "Goop" which does a good job of adhering to the plastic. Other adhesives like epoxy and super glue have poor adhesion to the plastic. After the Goop dried, I applied a thick coating of Goop over the magnet for two reasons. This step isn't necessary, but it helps the water tray to sit more level without rocking when I lower it to get the stone out of the water, but don't plan to dump the water.

BTW, John, if you have Woodturning Tools Grinding Angles Yield the older style water tray like mine that doesn't have the flared sides, I personally think it is better for sharpening turning tools because the flared sides on the new style water tray can sometimes interfere with sharpening certain bowl gouge grinds. I have both water trays and I very rarely use the new one. Zach LaPerriere. Gerald Lawrence said:. My BOB tools are mostly 70 degree bevels.

I have some 60 degree beveled bowl gouges, but just find the 70 to work and fit better in the transition and across the bottom of the bowl. It may have been Stuart Batty who commented that more blunt bevel angles take more pressure to push through a cut. That is possible, but when I use that type of gouge, it is for finish cutting and not bulk stock removal. Detail type gouges are all around 35 degrees.

SRG is 45 degrees, but I seldom use it as other tools work better. I can't tell that it either is better when using as a skew chisel. I can take a honed, or a honed and burnished shear scraper and get just as clean of a surface as I can with a skew, which could be my skew skills and not the tools.

I can get the same clean cuts with a honed Big Ugly tool which surprised me since the Tantung metal is rather coarse compared to micro grained carbide. I do have one Big Ugly with Stellite as the cutting metal, and it is slightly finer than the Tantung. The more blunt angles ones seem to cut better with a burnished burr than a grinder burr. The skew type NRS cuts about the same with a grinder burr or a very light burnished burr.

If I take that burnished burr and turn it down to the other side, I can hear the old burr breaking off, kind of like celophane krinkling noises, but it still turns a nice burr. Care must be taken to keep the burnisher no more than 10 degrees off of the bevel angle, so almost parallel rather than at 70 or 80 degrees which makes too much of a hook. I do all of my shear scraping with scrapers. I have been doing a lot of experimenting with 3 different edges.

Grinder burrs, and grit, honed with no burr at all, and burnished burrs. I am, at present anyway, preferring the burnished burr for the cleanest surfaces. For most shear scraping, it seems that the grit grinder burr does a fine job. The honed and no burr edge also is really clean. I don't use swept back gouges at all any more. Only thing I can think of to use them for is shear scraping.

I do need to do a comparison with the same steel to see if the more acute included angles of the gouge wing will make a cleaner cut than the more blunt angle of the scrapers I use. I don't think it would ever work to try to burnish a burr on gouges All this information from my initial question is a lot better and more that I expected. I make small items as the bowl type turnings just have no market that I can find around here and I really don't like making them.

I mainly do pens, mechanical pencils, seam rippers and a few other small turnings, the seam rippers especially are hot sellers for me. Lately I have been using my versa-chisels ground at approximately 35 degrees and they work great.

I don't know what happened as I used to use those tools with no problems whatsoever. That is the main reason for my question. I am wondering if I inadvertently changed the bevel angles on my spindle gouges and skews. I am grinding some of the angles that you fellas use to see if I can get back to using more of my chisels efficiently. A couple terms of what has been posted is like "greek" to me and I have to do some research.

Thank you gentlemen so much The skew and, to a lesser extent, the spindle gouge require frequent use to maintain proficiency I used to be pretty good with the skew, but then basically quit using it except as a scraper to create tenons.

Then I discovered after years of not using it for spindle turning that I was back at square one For sure, it's an humbling tool. On the positive side, it's great for scraping mud and cow patties off my boots.

Thanks Bill you are most likely correct. Maybe the angles on my skews and spindle gouges were correct. Luckily I haven't changed them all yet.

I was waiting to see which grind works best for me. After some practice I will probably go back and use my original angles on my chisels. Thanks again for the reply Bill. Oh and I live in a city in Central Michigan What I learned when I was teaching class is that a less acute edge is easier for new turners to use.

Now I'm not tallking about really blunt. Backing a skew off from 25 degrees to 35 or 40 really helps new turners. Same is true with spindle gouges. As you get better then you can make the edge more acute. A more acute edge cuts cleaner which is why you should go there in the long run. Bill Boehme said:.

The only reason I grind my negative rake scraper equal on both sides is I can just flip the tools and go to the grinder to get a new burr. I have 2 other negative rake scrapers that only have a short bevel on the top.

You have to be careful when making those to keep the included angle less than 90 degrees. John, what I am still trying to figure out with the NRS is the exact role that the included angles play.

I know Stuart Batty claims that they only work, or work better with that angle being less than 90 degrees. I can get good results with more blunt angles. It also seems that the burnished burr works fine if you don't over burnish and put too much of a hook on them. Still experimenting with these ideas.

Yea I accidentally ground my flat scraper to a negative rake and forgot the 90 degree rule. It wouldn't raise a decent burr. When I reground the underside to give me less than 90 it worked. Now I'm talking about measuring the angle from the top bevel to the bottom bevel. That's what I call an included angle. Just so we are on the same page. You are much more in tune with scrapers than I am.

I only use them in a pinch to clean up some area I have difficulty with. Jamie Straw. Tim, I've felt for a while that there is a need for cataloging sharpening information in a way much like Machinery Handbook provides quick information for machinists. So, I put this together as a web site that shows information to answer many of the questions you've asked.

You can get the information at www.

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