Without wood joinery, a woodworking project would need to be carved from a single piece of wood. Here are the basic wood joints and when to use each.  Chris is a freelance writer who specializes in woodworking, designs his own projects, and is experienced in commercial carpentry. Learn about The Spruce Crafts' Editorial Process. Chris Baylor. Clever Wood Projects. A close up shot of how our dovetail joints fit together. Biscuits.  Handmade goods from Danish design company by Wirth who takes leather and oak and crafts simple, yet practical home furnishings. Into The Woods Wood Concrete Concrete Countertops. Concrete Cloth.  Make the slope of the p. Eight Types of Wood Joints | Udemy Blog. Whether you want to learn carpentry to work on your home, or you’re interested in pursuing a new hobby, learning which types of wood joints are needed for your project is crucial to your success. Not every type of wood joint is equal in terms of strength or application, which means that learning a variety [ ] Scrap Wood Projects. Diy Projects To Try. Creating the perfect joint that permanently turns two pieces of wood into a seamless, enduring creation is after all, the essence of what we do in our shops. But perfect joinery is also the hardest thing to master. There is simply no room for the slightest error. One miniscule mistake of cutting or even sanding can turn a carefully honed piece of your final product into nothing more than scrap lumber. But fear not, my humble beginner, for you are in good company. Every woodworker on earth can point to a heap of scraps. You’re in good company. What separates the Greats from the Rookies in the s. Click on early, pontiled utility bottle with an ink label to see a very similar bottle clearly used for ink. It also has a rounded, one wood projects joints company "bead" type finish, an indented base and was mouth-blown in an air vented cup-base mold. To quote Munsey" Is that determined by the width of the joint? Tape will work as a dam on clean surfaces. Great question.

Both these described machine-made ink bottles exhibit no sign of the concentric, horizontal finishing 0r lipping tool induced marks that would be present on a mouth-blown finish which was hand tooled to shape..

A somewhat analogous phenomenon is noted on many press-and-blown, machine-made milk bottles produced during the first half of the 20th century. Other images of cylindrical ink bottles are available by clicking on the following links:. This is also a very large group of bottles - undoubtedly numbering in the many thousands of different shapes and variations.

Square ink bottles first appeared in any quantities around the time of the American Civil War, after cylindrical inks were well established; square pontiled ink bottles are very unusual. Note: Square ink wells appeared earlier with some of the first American made examples [ pattern molded ] reportedly produced by the Pitkin Glass Works East Hartford, CN.

Later ink bottles late 19th century through most of the 20th were commonly made with square bodies, rivaling cylindrical shapes in popularity.

Rectangular pontiled ink bottles are a bit more common than square pontiled ones though still unusual. Conversely to square ink bottles, rectangular inks largely disappeared in the early s in American bottle makers catalogs; rectangular machine-made ink bottles are uncommon Illinois Glass Co. In England, rectangular "boat" inks were still commonly made until at least WW1 covered below. In addition, virtually identical bottles although in amber glass are known that are embossed on the "roof" with S.

Covill Click on the following links to view more images of this bottle: base view ; view of the other two sides of the bottle. There were an assortment of house ink bottles made during the 19th century making them a very esthetic addition to ones desk and very likely increasing the sales of the users ink vendor of such bottles Covill The carmine style also made the leap onto automatic machines with a very similar look and name being made until at least the s Fairmount Glass Co.

Although the style was called a "carmine" by bottle makers, they were also used for other ink colors Covill Back to the pictured bottle This bottle has a tooled patent style finish, was blown in a cup-base mold, is 2" 5.

Given the company begin date noted, the evidence except for a lack of air venting points towards a likely manufacturing range of and Click base view to see the cup-base mold produced base. An illustration of the "carmine" style ink bottle being offered by the Illinois Glass Co.

An example of a very large 10 oz. The colorless faintly manganese dioxide induced "pink" ink bottle pictured to the left is embossed on three sides with C. This bottle which is commonly encountered as an unembossed bottle also is 2. Click on the following links for more images of this bottle: base view ; the other two sides of this bottle.

As noted in the introduction to this section, stationary shops aka "stationers" were common purveyors of bottled ink. The commonly encountered ink bottle pictured to the right is a machine-made square ink that is fairly decorative in design. It also has embossing on three of the body sides: 2 OZ. Click base view to see such showing the noted embossing. This bottle has some manufacturing similarities to the two machine-made cylindrical ink bottles discussed in the box above.

Specifically, it has a vertical side mold seam that ends at a horizontal seam that encircles the outside of the bead type lip as well as a horizontal mold seam encircling the bottle shoulder where the lower ring below the neck base meets the upper edge of the shoulder these are pointed out in the larger image one gets by clicking on the image to the right.

This indicates the unusual machine-mold conformation that formed the finish, neck, and upper shoulder in the ring parison mold, as discussed above. This bottle most likely dates from between and Click Sanford's Ink advertisement to see such which shows a very similar ink bottle in one of that companies ads. For more information, see the company's history page at this link: Sanford history. Various types of square, machine-made ink bottle similar to this with one or two rings at the base of the neck though certainly not all embossed like this example were commonly produced from the s to the s although later ones were also made with external screw threads Illinois Glass Co.

For scores of images of Sanford's ink bottles visit the Sanford's Ink bottles page of the website Ink Bottles. The cobalt blue, square ink bottle pictured to the left is also a machine-made example Click on the following links to see more images of this bottle: base view ; straight on view of one side ; close-up of the shoulder, neck and finish.

Multi-sided more than four sides : This a large and varied class of ink bottles bound together by having more than four flattened body sides or panels. Typically the body panel conformations are either "conical" picture to the left; bodies narrowing dramatically from the heel to the shoulder or "vertical" examples further below; bodies roughly equal in diameter at the heel and shoulder.

Once again, there are hundreds of not thousands of different and often subtle variations of multi-sided ink bottle theme Covill ; Faulkner with only a few of the more common shapes covered here. Conical bodies : Probably the most commonly encountered members of this group - particularly from historic sites dating before - are the "umbrella" ink bottles image above left.

The group pictured above are typical having eight equal sides - the most common configuration - though examples with 6, 10, 12, and 16 sixteen sides have also been recorded Covill ; Faulkner This is an interesting group in that they all date from the same time none are pontiled scarred but were finished in three different fashions: the two on the left have rolled finishes , the dark amber in the back has a cracked-off or burst-off finish , and the aqua example to the far right has an applied finish.

By the late s they were an insignificant minority of ink bottles produced empirical observations. The author has never observed a machine-made umbrella ink nor found any reference to examples except some modern reproductions some of which are marked JAPAN on the base and the style is thought to have disappeared prior to the introduction of bottle machines capable of produced narrow neck bottles Covill The typical height for most umbrella inks is around 2.

Umbrella inks were made in a myriad of glass colors - essentially any color that a bottle was blown it during the 19th century. Aqua is by far the most commonly used color, though the spectrum is very wide as indicated by the image at this link - umbrella ink color variety - which shows examples ranging from colorless to various shades of amber and green to cobalt blue.

The umbrella ink pictured to the right is an early American example dating from the s or early s. It was most likely made by a New England glass house, although it could also have been produced by a Pennsylvania, New Jersey, or New York maker. It is 2. It has a straight finish that was likely cracked off from the blowpipe then re-heated and tooled a bit to make a smoother finish.

Click on the following links to see more images of this ink bottle: base view which shows the "key" mold base seam squared notch in the vicinity of the pontil scar ; close-up of the upper shoulder, neck and finish showing more clearly the vague ridge that indicates the point where the top of the mold ended.

The aqua umbrella ink pictured to the left is a much later version dating most likely from the s though could be from the very first years of the 20th century. This dating estimate is based in part on the context it was found as well as some manufacturing related diagnostic features, i.

This example also has some light patination to the surface of the glass from being buried for over years. Click on base view to see the base of this bottle which has the absence of mold seams typical of cup-base mold produced bottles. This example also has part of the original cork closure and some dried contents visible - and what appears to be dried black ink.

The following multi-sided ink bottles have vertical body sides instead of the inwardly tapering towards the shoulder bodies of the umbrella inks discussed above. Vertical bodies : The other major grouping of multi-sided inks are those with more or less vertical sides, where the diameter of of the base and the shoulder are about the same.

This style was most popular during the midth century, i. Some multi-sided, vertical body ink bottles were also made by automatic bottle machines but most inks of that era are cylindrical or 4-sided square and rectangular.

Photo courtesy of American Glass Auctions. The octagonal ink bottles pictured to the left are English in origin. These bottles were burst-off from the blowpipe and received no additional finishing which resulted in the very crude and sharp finish visible in the image click to enlarge.

This method of "finishing" a bottle was common with cheap, mouth-blown, utilitarian bottles made in England in the late s to as late as Boow Click labeled English ink to view an identical example from the same era around with the original label indicating its use by an English ink producer for rubber stamp ink. These bottles also have a vague makers mark on the base not visible in image that resembles the goal posts on a football field.

This mark is certainly one used by a yet unknown English glass company as bases with this mark are documented to have been found in the Ravensbourne River at Deptford, Wiltshire, England Toulouse Although English-made, these type bottles are commonly encountered in North America and are one of most typical bottles to be found with a burst-off finish.

Other images of multi-sided more than four sides ink bottles are available by clicking on the following links:. Other shapes : There were, of course, many other types and shapes of ink bottles. Distinctive or attractive packaging seemed to have been a common theme in the production of ink bottles, driven by customer demand and glass company ingenuity. Some commonly encountered or interesting types will be covered briefly in this section.

Period glass companies called this general shape the "fountain," "monitor" after the Civil War ship , or "fluted fountain" for those with a faceted lower side like the examples pictured above Whitall Tatum ; Robert Alther ; Freeman ; Covill I'll just call them igloo inks here. Igloo inks were very popular and extensively used for at least 35 to 40 years - through into the early s - particularly in schools.

Since this distinctive style is unknown with either pontil scars or as machine-made bottles, this supports the noted date range well Covill ; empirical observations. The two ink bottles pictured above and again to the right are typical - and the most commonly encountered - examples of igloo ink bottles empirical observations. This firm allegedly first patented the shape on October 31st, ; the earliest examples have that patent date - but not number - embossed on the domed portion of the body.

The pictured bottles are around 1. Both examples pictured were blown in cup-base molds and lack evidence of mold air venting which is a common feature of , though they were each finished differently. The example on the right above, which is probably the earliest of the two, has a rough burst -off finish which received only the slightest amount of rim grinding to remove some of the sharp edges.

The other example left has a standard tooled finish. Other images of "other shapes" of ink bottles are available by clicking on the following links:. A few ink bottle specific manufacturing related diagnostic features and dating trends have been noted by the author and are discussed as follows:.

There were certainly bulk ink bottles which were under 5" in height - like this 3. One other consideration is that bulk ink bottles tend to have proportionally narrower bores than ink bottles since they were not generally intended to be used to directly fill fountain pens or dip ones quill into empirical observations.

Bulk inks were generally made in sizes near one-half pint, pint and quart although other sizes within this range are not uncommon. There are also certainly bulk inks smaller than 4 ozs. Bulk ink bottles were used to fill inkwells and to some degree empty ink bottles call them "economy" ink wells. These bottles - especially those without a pouring spout of some type image to the right and above left or without embossing indicating the use by an ink producer or seller - are often referred to as "utility" bottles since they could have been used for a wide array of non-carbonated liquid products.

The only way to tell if a "utility" bottle was used for ink is if the bottle is still labeled indicating such use, has ink residue inside not uncommonly seen , or it has a pouring spout which is a strongly indicative diagnostic feature of a bulk ink Covill ; empirical observations.

The general class of u tility bottles are covered later on this page. For simplicity, bulk inks are divided into two subsets here - cylindrical and non-cylindrical. The blue-green bulk ink pictured to the right is discussed below. As noted in other sections of this website, cylindrical bodies are inherently stronger than other body shapes all other things being equal, e.

The subjective speculation of this author as to why the majority were cylindrical may well have revolved around the potential nasty mess one would have if a bottle of ink broke versus other less messy substances. All are approximately 7. These bottles display the typical conformation of bulk inks made during the last half of the 19th century like the blue-green and cobalt blue examples discussed below.

The two small approx. Both are somewhat generic utility type bottles and neither has a pour spout. So without a label identifying the actual use one can never know for sure although these type bottles were used very commonly for ink.

Click on early, pontiled utility bottle with an ink label to see a very similar bottle clearly used for ink. Click on the following links to see more images of the two illustrated bottles: base view showing the blow-pipe pontil scars and two-piece "hinge mold" production as evidenced by the mold seam equally dissecting the base not totally visible in the linked image ; close-up of the shoulder, neck and finishes showing the short, squatty mineral type applied finishes without pour spouts.

Both these bottles are typical of the utilitarian items produced by many of the earlier New England and Midwestern glass houses during the s to s period. Also see Utility Bottles below.

The small 4. This particular bottle dates from the s or s, was blown in a true two-piece "keyed" hinge mold , has a blowpipe type pontil scar and no evidence of mold air venting. Click on the following links to view more images of this bottle: base view showing the blowpipe style pontil scar over a true two-piece mold seam aka "hinge mold" ; close-up of the shoulder, neck and finish showing the very thin and delicate flared finish which was formed by re-heating and tooling with some simple tool like a jack the glass remaining after blowpipe removal.

The small 3. This small bottle was blown in a three-piece mold lacking any evidence of mold air venting and was found in a context indicating manufacture in the s.

These type small utility bottles from the s to early s were commonly made in either two-piece cup-base molds or in a three-piece mold like this example. Click close-up of the shoulder, neck and finish to view the well formed though delicate pour spout; this image also shows the very distinct three-piece mold shoulder and neck seams. This bottle certainly could have been used for medicines of some type, with the pour spout making dosing easier.

However, the big majority of mouth-blown bottles with formed pour spouts were used for ink so it is most likely that was the use of this small bottle also and other ink bottles were found in the same context.

The brilliant medium blue-green bulk ink bottle pictured to the left dates from the to era based on its applied finish, post-bottom mold production, lack of mold air venting, and the context it was found.

This example is 8. It was common during the 19th century and into at least the first third of the 20th century, for bulk ink bottles to be made with bright, eye attracting colored glass; likely for marketing purposes. Click on the following links to see more views of this bottle: close-up of the applied, pour spout finish showing the pour spout which was shaped by some type of glassmakers tool also shown earlier in this section above ; base view showing the slightly indented post-bottom base conformation.

The tall 8. It has an applied two-part finish that is a cross between the "mineral" the short, sharp lower part and "double ring" types the taller, distinctly rounded upper part , was blown in a two-piece post-bottom mold, lacks evidence of mold air venting, and dates most likely from the late s based on the context it was found in. Click on the following links to see more images of this bottle: base view post-bottom mold production though the seams are not easily visible in the image ; close-up of the shoulder, neck and finish showing the crudely applied finish.

More information on this closure type is found at this link: club sauce type closure. Another general form seen in early to midth century machine-made bulk ink bottles is the amber bottle pictured to the left and in the adjacent illustration.

It has a slightly bulging shoulder and heel and is of a shape used by several ink manufacturers during the noted ear. This particular bottle is 6" tall and 2.

The bottle was sealed with a modified crown cap closure as shown in the illustration. Click on the following links to see more images of this bottle: base view faintly showing the diamond makers mark indicating probable production by the Illinois Glass Co. Alton, IL. Toulouse ; close-up of the shoulder, neck and finish showing the standard crown cap accepting finish. Other shapes non-cylindrical : The most common non-cylindrical shape for bulk ink bottles are those with vertical, equal-sided paneled bodies; 6, 8 and 12 sides being most observed.

A couple examples follow though there are likely hundreds of other examples produced during the period covered by this website. Photo courtesy of Glass Works Auctions. Apollos W.

Most of these bottles are pontil scarred, lack mold air venting, were blown in a true two-piece hinge mold, and have a distinctive flared collared ring finish like the illustrated bottle. A commonly seen bulk ink bottle from the late s to early s are the very decorative "cathedral" style bottles pictured to the left.

These bottles were produced in three different bulk sizes - quart 9. All the bottles are machine-made and utilized a rubber cork closure with a screw cap pour spout on top click on the two bottle image to see the closures.

For more images of this bottle style, click on the following links: view of three sizes of these gothic or cathedral style ink bottles; view of the bases of the three sizes. These bottles were sometime produced in a lighter sapphire blue two bottle image shows color comparison and rarely in colorless glass Faulkner There are no significant bottle type specific, manufacturing related diagnostic features or dating trends that have been noted by the author.

As noted at the top of this section on ink bottles, the difference between an "ink bottle" and an "inkwell" is hard to define since they are both small bottles used as "containers for ink" from which a quill or fountain pen was directly filled or dipped Merriam-Webster Online Dictionary Although both were used in a similar fashion - to directly fill a quill or pen - according to Munsey an " In the end, the line is blurred between the two; both are covered as separate bottle "types" on this page.

The first inkstand an inkwell was part of an inkstand which also included writing instruments and a sand shaker for drying was patented in the U. Quincy of Boston, Massachusetts Faulkner Inkwells began fading in popularity by the early twentieth century due to the rise of fountain pens - which were filled directly from the bottle - and later, ballpoint pens which dominated by the midth century Faulkner ; Wikipedia.

Inkwells were produced in a dizzying array of designs and materials including wood, precious metals, pewter and other more common metals, ceramics, a myriad of minerals, and many other substances Even with "just" glass as the forming material the variety of shapes, colors, and types is staggering. For those interested in the subject, both Covill's and the Faulkner's books provide a bit more glimpse into more variety than can or should be addressed on this site as inkwells are really a specialty bottle type and outside this websites goals.

However, a few examples of commonly encountered inkwells will be addressed - examples that are more "bottle-like" and more closely follow the dating rules outlined on this website than not. A straight-on side view of the bottle is available by clicking HERE.

Pattern molding was a process of forming a basic design pattern typically ribs on an expanding gob of glass via a dip mold with an engraved design. The image to the above right is a close-up view of the base of this inkwell showing the blowpipe pontil scar on the base of this inkwell. It also shows the ribbing pattern continuation from the body to the base typical of a pattern molded bottle. It should be noted that some "Pitkin" style inkwells were also made by other regional glasshouses like those in Keene, NH.

This ink was blown in a three-piece leaf mold, has a blow-pipe pontil scar on the base, is 1. Click base view to view the base which shows the pontil scar encircling a small indentation in the base center.

The linked image also shows the extensive wear present on the high point edge of the base; a function of these inkwells being used for decades as well as sitting on a shelf for another century or more as these items were rarely discarded unless broken. This "bottle-like" category of inkwells were produced by several New England glasshouses including the noted Coventry, CT.

The very small 1. Note: This bottle is covered here due to the morphological similarity to the geometric inkwells discussed above. In any event, this ink bottle was likely Woodworking Projects With Joints Zara produced without the aid of a mold i. Click on base view to see the noted pontil scar.

It has a cheap utilitarian look to it compared to the geometric inkwell shown above though has the same basic configuration. It could well have been and probably was sold corked and containing ink; whether it was reused as an inkwell can't be determined. It does appear to have some dark ink residue forming a rough ring around the insides, although this could also be related to its residence in the earth for over years. Unlike most inkwells that were sold empty and were much more ornate, this particular bottle is of a utilitarian nature and does conform to the dating guidelines found on this website, i.

The cobalt blue inkwell pictured to the left is what is known as a "tea kettle," "turtle," or "fountain" inkwell. It dates from the mid to late 19th century. These type inkwells usually had burst-off or cracked-off finishes which were variably ground down. The finish was usually covered by a hinged, typically brass, ring and cap cap missing on the illustrated example that sealed the bottle when not being used to inhibit evaporation.

Teakettle inks come in a wide variety of colors, glass types, and other materials e. The style seems to have been first made during the first quarter of the 19th century Covill ; Faulkner but was most popular from the mids until around or so since pontiled examples are unusual empirical observations.

The tea kettle inkwell or ink bottle pictured to the right is another ink that crosses the line between being an inkwell or simple ink bottle. Like the aqua center hole ink bottle above this bottle also has a cheaper, utilitarian look to it compared to the cobalt blue teak kettle ink bottle above, which certainly was intended for indefinite use. Of course, this bottle could have been reused after the initial purchase with ink.

It has a tooled straight finish which accepted a cork closure, an eleven sided body, and has no evidence of mold air venting. It was apparently blown in a true, though asymmetrical, two-piece mold where one portion of the mold formed the base, heel and underside of the neck with the other portion forming the entire body and upper portion of the neck.

Below the patent date is a marking which appears to be three interlinking circles with some faint letters in each circle which is either an unknown bottle makers marking or is related to the company that used the bottle. To view the actual design patent click: Design Patent 11, The patent notes that this was called a "Fountain-Bottle" and specifically patented for the spout angle and bulge at the base of the spout, the pen rests on the top of the body, and feet bumps on the base see base image - or all those features in combination.

The patent was granted to one Michael H. Hagerty of New York, NY. A search of the few references on ink bottles listed the bottle but nothing about what company used the bottle, what the noted marking on the base may mean, nor anything about Mr.

Covill did note a variant of this bottle that has PAT. FOR on the base indicating manufacture between April 9, , when the patent application was filed, and July 13, when the patent was granted! Since these bottles are fairly scarce in the authors experience, they were probably only made for a few years in the early to mids. The illustrated bottles, however, were picked specifically because they are types that do follow the dating rules well.

Pontil scarred ink bottles generally were made during or before the Civil War, whereas pontiled inkwells being more of a specialty bottle , were occasionally made later in the 19th century empirical observations.

Since inkwells were not made much after the advent of bottle making machines, machine-made inkwells are unusual but may be encountered now and then. As portrayed by the image of an early 19th century pewter inkwell to the left, a lot of late 18th to early 20th century inkwells were not bottles or even made of glass.

As noted earlier, inkwells were produced in a dizzying array of designs and materials including wood, precious metals, pewter and other more common metals, ceramics, a myriad of minerals, and many other substances. However, that can be the subject of another website For more information on the fascinating world of glass ink bottles and inkwells, see the two primary published references used for this section - William Covill's "Ink Bottles and Inkwells" and Ed and Lucy Faulkner's "Inks - Years of Bottles and Companies.

Return to the top of this page. Horses hooves were reportedly a well know component of glue in the past at least according to my parents while growing up! According to online dictionaries, today the term glue seems to be general term used for adhesives including mucilage.

In any event, the terms "glue" and "mucilage" are the most commonly seen either embossed or labeled on historic bottles within the time frame covered by this website Covill ; Faulkner What the contained products were specifically made from is somewhat irrelevant to this discussion of historic mucilage and glue bottles.

Suffice to say that the products were both organic in origin versus the widely used synthetic adhesives today. Mucilage was often packaged in bottles that were the same as those used for ink - in particular, the cone ink style - at least in part, because both products were often made by the same companies Faulkner An example of this is the "classic" cone ink bottle labeled for mucilage found at this link: cone "ink" labeled for mucilage.

The linked bottle likely dates from the s or s. No history is known on the Henry Hoffman Co. Located at the following link is another late 19th century cone ink style bottle clearly labeled as mucilage: another cone "ink" labeled for mucilage. No history was found for that particular bottle either. The best that one can say in regards to the past use of now non-labeled cone style ink bottles like those found on historic sites is that they were primarily used for ink and often are found with ink residue inside with a significant use also for mucilage and a substance that would likely dissolve more readily than ink.

Another typical ink bottle style often used for mucilage were the cylindrical, vertical body ink bottles covered earlier on this page Covill It is represented by the bottles illustrated above and below left. As one can see from the images, these bottles are a bit like the cone ink style, with the horizontal ridge on the shoulder, conical body and short neck, but also a bit like an umbrella ink with the multi-paneled body sides.

Typically, this mucilage style has a taller body and overall height either the typical cone or umbrella inks and a much more pronounced ridge or bulge at the shoulder than the cone ink. Compare images of both on this page to see the difference. This style also has a bit wider bore or mouth to facilitate the use of the less liquid product than ink, often with some applicator see patent below. Click on Illinois Glass Co.

Style" 3 oz. The patent available at the following link - mucilage applicator patent from - includes a line drawing of a typical midth century mucilage bottle of this style. Although the patent is not for the bottle itself - by that time a traditional style bottle that was not likely even patentable - it clearly shows a multi-paneled bottle with a distinctly humped shoulder similar to the ones illustrated.

This easily identifiable style was used from at least the early to mids based on pontil scarred examples being observed occasionally but not commonly until the end of the mouth-blown bottle era in the mid to late s.

The classically shaped, conical multi-sided mucilage bottle in the upper left corner of this section base view above right is a relatively early example dating from just before or during the American Civil War based on manufacturing based diagnostic characteristics i.

It has a rolled or folded finish , was blown in a post-base mold, and has a combination style pontil scar exhibiting obvious iron residue. The base view shows the somewhat unusual combination pontil scar on the base of this bottle. The label notes it is from New York though no company is listed; click close-up of the label to see such. This mucilage was actually made by the S. Stafford Ink Co. Samuel Stafford began making ink in but not under his own name until , giving a "begin" date for these bottles of that year Faulkner These bottles date from the late s into the early 20th century all seen by this author were mouth-blown although the company lasted until at least the middle of the 20th century Faulkner Click on the following links for more images of this bottle: base view showing what is likely a cup-base mold conformation; close-up of the cracked-off and lightly tooled "straight finish" which was the most commonly used finish on this common style of mucilage bottle.

Another frequently encountered glue bottle style - although much less commonly than the type discussed above - is pictured below right. That author covered the style in his chapter entitled "Fountain Inkwells Misc. The most commonly encountered examples are like the illustrated bottle. Morgan was later granted another patent June 18th for an "Improvement in Inkstands" - a closure that fit this style bottle which was now being called an inkstand.

This patent can be viewed at the following link: Patent , This later patent illustration shows what appears to be a bottle very similar to the bottle with the "improved" cover which is much different than the handled cap and brush closure shown in the patent. The patent was apparently bottles of this style used for ink instead of mucilage.

In any event, these interestingly shaped bottles were blown in a cup-base mold, have a ground rim finish, and apparently were only made in colorless glass. Click on the following links to view more images of this bottle: base view showing the shape of the bottle and the patent date; finish view showing a close-up of the ground rim.

An interesting fact about this bottle is there was one mold for the style made with most of the embossing reversed! That is, the mold engraving was made so the engraver could read it in the mold correctly which, of course, resulted in the embossing being reversed on the blown bottle itself Faulkner This style of ink bottle was made by various manufacturers from at least the late s until the early s s at least.

The author has not observed machine-made versions although they certainly could exist. Pictured to the left is an early, embossed glue bottle of a simple style commonly encountered with glue bottles - small, cylindrical, and with a wide bore or mouth Covill ; empirical observations.

Although a commonly encountered mid to late 19th century bottle, this author couldn't find any history on these bottles. A quick search of the internet shows some 19th century newspaper ads for it though nothing on the company that produced the product.

This bottle is approximately 3. All that is commensurate with the age of the bottle which was manufactured in the s based on the context it was found. Several authors have noted that these bottles are commonly found on Civil War camp sites and are usually pontiled, i. The author has also observed later mouth-blown versions that are not pontiled, have tooled finishes, and blown in cup-base molds empirical observations.

Glue was also packaged and sold in other bottle shapes and sizes from the midth century through the end of the period covered by this website in the midth century. Future additions to the site may add additional mucilage and glue bottles examples Similar to druggist and some small medicine bottles, mucilage bottle finishing appears to have been dominated by the tooled finishing method by the mid-ish s.

The transition from applied to tooled finishes is covered in more depth in a section of the Bottle Finishing main page. The standard finish on the common conical multi-sided body or cylindrical mucilage bottles was the straight finish or the very similar, but earlier, rolled or folded finish.

This held from origin of the style in the s possibly late s to the functional end of the mouth-blown era in the mid to late s. Once these bottles were beginning to be machine-made mid to late s the finishes were typically different, i.

Mucilage bottles are along with ink bottles some of the earliest bottles to be blown with some regularity in cup-base molds. Possibly because little air needed displaced during the blowing process from the quite small bottle molds used for these bottles and thus little need for air venting?

Blacking is " a substance as a paste or polish that is applied to an object to make it black " www. Blacking was sometimes referred to as "lampblack" which is the fine soot collected from incompletely burned carbonaceous materials. It was used as a pigment and in matches, explosives, lubricants, and fertilizers as well as a component of various treatments for leather products www.

The blacking of leather goes back to antiquity, though the earliest reference of use for shoes is from the early 18th century when it was typically made at home.

Shoe polish was typically black for much of the period covered by this website so the terms are considered historically analogous. The following is a description of blacking from Blacking consists essentially of two principle constituents: a black coloring matter and substances that will produce a gloss or shine.

Each maker has his own proportions and methods of mixing but the materials used are similar in most cases. Although blacking and shoe polish bottles can be square below right , cylindrical cylindrical utility bottle , rectangular to the left , or more uncommonly oval s oval example or even octagonal in cross-section they tend to all share at least a couple similarities.

Such was necessary for the use of an application swab or sponge which was usually mounted on the end of a wire or wooden stick. The second commonality is that the capacity of the bottles were dominated by those holding about 4 to 6 ounces, although "bulk" bottles or jars as well as ones a bit smaller than 4 ozs. Image compliments of Glass Works Auctions. These bottles are square, produced in a true two-piece "hinge" mold note mold seam symmetrically dissecting the bases , have blowpipe style pontil scars, cracked-off finishes sometimes fire polished, sometimes not and left sharp , and were blown long before mold air venting was used.

This ubiquitous style ranged at the time from about 4. They were typically made in various shades of olive green to olive amber glass like shown though aqua, pure green and amber examples are also encountered. Of interest, is that these type bottles in the s and s were sold by the New England Glass Bottle Co.

The reason why early bottles were usually reused many times. The pictured bottles date from the s to maybe early s range and were of a type blown at most New England and other Eastern Seaboard glass factories of the time. Note: These early American bottles were also used for snuff and likely other products also. This square, short neck style was made in the U. Of course the specifics of manufacture as well as the closures and finishes used varied over that time, e.

A very common example of a late 19th to early 20th century, mouth-blown example is available at this link: Frank Millers Dressing. The shoe polish bottle pictured at the beginning of this section and to the left are some of the most commonly encountered types from the late 19th well into the 20th century.

This particular type came in at least two sizes, this being the typical larger size which is 5. It also has a rounded, one part "bead" type finish, an indented base and was mouth-blown in an air vented cup-base mold.

For more images of this bottle click on the following links: base view ; side view ; close-up of the upper body, neck and bead style finish. These mouth-blown bottles were produced in colorless, aqua, shades of green and amber glass; there were also lots of different size, shape, and embossing variations.

Later machine-made variations probably no earlier than the s had screw cap finishes. The cork or possibly later - rubber had the applicator swab wire embedded in the base. This bottle is 5. In the experience of the author, machine-made bottles like this lack the indented panel on the embossing side that is typical of the earlier pre-mid s mouth-blown examples, though some mouth-blown examples lack the indentation also empirical observations.

The Whittemore's Polish bottle to the right two views is a cylindrical, late mouth-blown example that dates from the to era. It is about 3. The amethyst color is the result of the use of magnesium dioxide as a decolorizer; the original color was colorless but has since turned deep amethyst due to either exposure to ample sunlight or irradiated artificially. These would have been stoppered similarly to the rectangular types discussed above.

By the mids, especially as machines began to dominate production, the cylindrical style began to dominate the glass bottle shoe polish market although rectangular and square bottles continued to also be used until the midth century Illinois Glass Co. For some examples of early machine-made "shoe dressing" bottles from period bottle makers catalogs click on the following links: Illinois Glass Co.

In addition to the bottle types above, the very distinctively shaped example pictured to the left is also one of the commonest shoe polish or blacking bottles found on historic sites in the U.

This particular bottle is just over 4" tall and 2. Click close-up of the upper body, neck and finish to see such. Apparently, Bixby was frugal and the mold engraving charged by the letter even though there was plenty of room to spell out MARCH and the full year. These bottles are also usually always? Click on the image to the right to see that embossing more clearly; also click another base view to see an amber example showing the embossing more clearly.

They came in a variety of glass colors, although far and away the most commonly seen is aqua like the pictured example empirical observations. As the embossing indicates, this distinctive bottle style was patented on March 6, although the patent was applied for in so examples could date back to that time at least.

Click Samuel M. Bixby's March 6, patent , to see the original patent for the bottle shape - particularly the bulging shoulder - and the polish applicator primarily the handle at the top. It noted that the patent was for " Later mouth-blown ones had a body that was squattier, square with rounded corners and the patent date in one line just below the shoulder bulge.

Click squat example to view an image of an early 20th century example; click base view to view the base embossing of this squared example. The company apparently began in the s and continued for many years, using a variety of different bottles for the other products, until Bixby's death in when the company was sold to a competitor Faulkner although the product name continued and was connected with the famous Shinola shoe polish.

Click Bixby advertisement to see such showing the same bottle shape. Glass containers intended for the wide variety of toiletry products e. One major commonality within this group is that bottles intended for these products tend to be smaller in capacity, rarely being over about 10 or 12 ounces and often much less than that.

They also tend towards having narrow necks and smaller bores most products being liquids and to have been made of relatively thin glass since toiletries were not carbonated and extra heavy glass was little needed cream jars being an often encountered exception to both the bore size and glass thickness.

Other than those attributes, the variety within this large group is staggering. Thus, the coverage here will be primarily directed at some of the more commonly encountered types and those that offer some historic interest or relevance or I have interesting examples of to illustrate.

The use of bottles for various toiletry products dates back a couple thousand years to the Hellenic and Roman empire periods. For example, the small 3" tall Roman bottle to the right dating from the Judea Period, i. This large but variable class of Roman bottles are often referred to as "unguentarium bottles" as they were commonly used for holding scented oils for the body and hair as well as perfumes Van den Bossche The bottle is free-blown, a light greenish color glass, a finish that was flared with some primitive tool and has evidence of a sand type pontil scar on the base.

It is also heavily patinated from the reaction of the soil it was found in with the glass over almost years. Click the following links to see more images of this ancient bottle: side view , base view , and top view. As with the rest of this website, the bottles covered largely date from the 19th to midth century and were produced primarily in the United States.

Perfume, cologne, and toilet water bottles as a group come in a variety of shapes and sizes that is robust to say the least. This group of bottles will often be referred to as simply "scent bottles" although historically there was a difference between perfume and scent.

Specifically, perfume was and is used primarily for personal embellishment whereas scent " commonly meant perfume that contained ammonia and was used for reviving fainting females or just 'social smelling,' i.

Note: Toilet water is really just another name for cologne as best as this author can determine. However, bottle catalogs commonly use "toilet water" in lieu of or along with "cologne" when describing these type bottles. The author has no idea as to the total variety of these bottles - including all the subtle variations of major styles made just in the U. As an example, there are scores of different examples in the Illinois Glass Company bottle catalog posted on this site click IGCo.

Given that a large number of scent bottles were likely made in proprietary molds - which are not typically listed in bottle catalogs - it is likely the company was making several times the number of scent bottles shown. Like many other type categories of bottles, this section not even scratch the surface of that variety. Instead, it will show a few typical or common shapes used during the era covered by this website.

As noted in the introduction to this Toiletries section, most scent bottles were small in size rarely holding more than 6 ounces and often only an ounce or less, i. Scent bottles are also usually no more than about 6" tall Munsey The glass thickness of scent bottles tends to be relatively thin since there was no need to contain the pressure of a carbonated product like with beer or soda.

One exception to this glass thickness trend is that the fancier stoppered perfume bottles - bottles intended to be refilled and reused indefinitely - were often made of quite thick glass making them heavy for their size.

An 20th century example s; 6. The early and fairly often encountered for such an early bottle American cologne bottle pictured to the above left is of a style known as the "plume pattern. It has an early outwardly rolled finish , was blown in a true two-piece hinge mold, lacks any evidence of mold air venting, has a capacity of about oz.

Click base view to see such showing an excellent example of a blowpipe style pontil scar. Click reverse view to see the less ornate side where a label would have been applied by the user. Kaiser shows an example of this particular bottle with the original label for "Eau De Cologne" overlaid with another identifying it as having been reused by a South Boston apothecary for "French Brandy.

The three very similar shaped bottles pictured to the left are cologne bottle spanning about 60 years of time moving from left to right - and all made by different manufacturing methods.

Van den Bossche pictures a case of six of these bottles, exactly like the center example in image, which he dates from about Piver, Parfumeur " of Paris, France.

This is a style that was most likely first produced in Europe in the early 19th century but also made later in the U. Van den Bossche ; empirical observations. The bottle on the right 9. The middle example 9. It was, however, blown in a dip mold evidenced by the abrupt and slightly flaring shoulder bulge and the very slight taper to the body which was necessary to remove it from a dip mold.

It also is of very thin glass, has a glass tipped pontil scar covering most of the very slightly indented base, and a finish very similar to the bottle described above; it dates from the s to s. The final deep emerald green bottle to the far left 8. This bottle was produced in a two piece "cup bottom" mold that lacks evidence of air venting and has a tooled bead type finish dating it from the s to s period most likely.

A quick look online shows that the company was established in the midth century, was a prolific advertiser, used a myriad of different bottles embossed with their name, and sold under that company name well into the 20th century empirical observations.

This distinct style of bottle is often found on historic sites across the range indicated by the noted dates of the bottles. The following links show an example from the to era with the original labeling indicating that it was a " Concentrated Extract of White Rose ": full view including the label ; close-up of the shoulder, neck and finish.

Van den Bossche also notes that this style was sometimes used for other products like balsam, oil, medicines and liquor. He illustrated a smaller 5. At least one of these bottles was also found on the S. Republic - an American ship which sank off the American east coast in Ellen Gerth pers. This bottle was blown in a three-piece leaf mold which was a mold with three equal body portions, has a capacity of about 6 oz.

Click base view to view the blow-pipe style pontil Wood Projects Letter Holder Company scar on the base. This bottle has a plain, non-patterned base although some other variations have embossed rays. Those authors also noted that these bottles were used for castor oil, camphor, vinegar as a "cruet" , and possibly other products.

They also noted that they were blown in a wide variety of colors including the pictured cobalt blue almost purple-blue , colorless, aquamarine, sapphire blue, shades of amethyst and purple, various shades of green, and even milk glass. All the colors outside of colorless and the cobalt shades are rarely encountered.

By the time of the American Civil War and on into the early 20th century, the number and variety of mouth blown, cheaply produced scent bottles exploded with many producers both foreign and domestic. One of the most popular brands of the last half of the 19th century was Hoyt's German Cologne; it is pictured to the right.

Click on base view to see the cup-mold base conformation. Click close-up of the shoulder, neck and finish to see such. This bottle is the "Trail Size" 3. The company also sold a "Medium Size" 5. The pictured "Trial Size" example has a tooled "prescription" finish, blown in a cup-base mold, and exhibits a single shoulder air venting mark above the embossing and three evenly spread out on the base.

Multiple air venting marks on the base is indicative of a bottle made no earlier than the late s and most likely sometime between and the mid to late s empirical observations.

The E. Hoyt Company first introduced their German Cologne in and it was produced for a long time. The trade card shown has the suggested uses for the cologne listed on the back; click trade card reverse side to see such. It was touted for use " Like many trade cards, this one does note on the back stamped that it was given out by "John A.

Child was a Portland, Oregon druggist in business as "Central Drug" from about through The small bottle pictured to the left is a interestingly shaped perfume bottle which although of a distinctive shape, is representative of the wide variety of shape and sizes found in scent bottles. It is 4" tall, made of colorless glass with a slight pink tint, held only one ounce or so, has a crudely tooled "bead" or possibly "patent" finish a hybrid of the two really , blown in a cup-base mold, and lacks any evidence of mold air venting.

This bottle likely dates from the s to possibly early s based on the context it was found. As explained elsewhere on this site , smaller bottles generally less than 6" in height were being blown in cup-base molds and had tooled finishes at an earlier date s and sometimes a bit earlier than larger bottles 10" and above which were typically made with applied finishes into the mids or even early s with a few types e.

Click side view to see the horizontally ribbed sides to this narrow bottle. This crudity is consistent with the noted era of manufacture and lack of air venting. Who utilized this bottle for scent would likely be apparent if the bottle retained the original labels but not without them. The colorless and relatively modern toilet water possibly aftershave? Given the lack of original labeling nor any useful embossing on the body or base there isn't much more to say about the bottle besides it is an example of the moderately decorative glass packing often used for the noted products.

For more images click on the following links: base view no identifiable or dateable embossing ; side view not embossed and lacking the ribbed design found on the two wider sides ; and a close-up of the upper body, shoulder, neck and screw cap closure.

For an idea of the wide variety of toilet water, cologne and perfume bottles from just one manufacturer Illinois Glass Company in the s take a look at pages 64 to 73 machine-made and to all likely hand blown of their catalog and pages 72 to 91 machine-made and to still hand blown of their catalog showing a scores of different designs. During the era covered by this website many tens of thousands of different shapes, sizes, designs, etc.

This example is 5. Click side view to see such which has several staggered vertical ribs defining the edge of the side.

Click base view to see such which, although hard to read, is embossed with DES. The base also shows some of the suction scar made by the Owens Automatic Bottle Machine. The best way to understand the somewhat "Art Deco" design is to view the original Design Patent which was issued in to an apparent employee of the glass company. The patent date along with the noted catalog information indicates this bottle was popular and sold by Owens-Illinois from until at least the early s, this being an earlier example indicated by the date code.

All of the later examples would also have date codes on the base, if decipherable. Just came across your website. Jeff, I have another question about sand…my expansion joint is about 5 inches deep. Can I fill the first 4 or so inches with sand, then backer rod on top of that, then finish off with Sika? Or should I just use the backer rod and leave the space empty below it? I did however remove weeds where I noticed the expansion cracks to be about an inch wide and the dirt inside it goes down VERY deep.

Thanks Angela for your question. This post is a life saver! Just now getting all the weeds up and heading toward the phase of getting the dirt and old sealant among other things out of there. As far as the driveway, the expansion joints are one thing, but there are also cracks of varying depth and width.

Some meet the joints and just end at the side of the driveway. My main question is… should I fill these cracks with concrete or sealant? And if concrete, should I fill the expansion joints first or the cracks? One last question- what is the best material to dam the ends of the joints with? Thanks Amanda and congrats to you helping with the DIY, always good to learn new stuff. Sakrete and Quikrete make great options.

The crack filler is better than concrete as it will expand and contract with the weather. If you need to damn the sides of the joints you can use anything that makes sense, even clay or old wood will work fine.

I hope you can learn from my mistakes and successes. My intent is to share and not sound preachy: Spend plenty of time prepping your project. It took hours and hours to dig out old expansion joint materials, weeds, dirt, etc.

Measure the width and length of all the spaces you need to fill and purchase several sizes of backer rod. The hardware stores carry the narrow widths. I poured in dry sand and wetted it before putting the backer rod on to get rid of the air pockets. Maybe the air pockets are helpful though with winter heaving?

As mentioned in the original article, keep the top of backer rod below the surface. I read online that backer rod has gas in it which will release and weaken its integrity if cut so I did not trim the top of it as another poster did. Leave the backer rod in for a few days before pouring the sealant. Mine contracted six inches over the span of a two stall garage opening. I learned this after I laid the backer rod, got my project interrupted, and got back to it days later.

My neighbor poured his right away. His ends were not secure and when he woke up the next morning it looked like the Loch Ness Monster was breaking the surface.

The ends were sticking out four inches. His said some naughty words and has a LOT of work ahead of him.

After the backer rod is in, I brushed a medium layer of sand over it to fill in any unseen air holes. I learned this the hard way on my first experimental try. The sealant found a hole and ran and ran down it. I wetted the sand with a spray bottle immediately prior to adding sealant. Dam the ends. I used whatever fit the area.

A snip of backer rod, a piece of cardboard, a strip of duct tape. On some places I could not get the old material out of the gap in places and backer rod would simply not fill the gap so I stuffed different diameters of rope in as filler. It looks fine after a week. Fingers crossed for the long term. I did mine in the fall and leaves galore found the wet sealant.

So did bits of grass, dust, sand, dirt. This would be a great indoor project. Find a neighbor and share the costs. Get the right color. They had tan and gray when we bought and you have to look at the color strip on the package.

Tan was less expensive for some reason. Do your project during the day when people are at work. EVERY neighbor who has this project ahead of them which is every neighbor will stop and want an explanation. Every neighbor. It takes way longer than expected. I took plenty of rags and paper towels but did not get the proper cleaning solvent. It does not wash off with water.

Not off your concrete and not off your hands. Thanks for all of the great info. Would this process still be appropriate for a house gap between my foundation and attached walkway? In some parts, there are some large deep gaps developing. Old caulk almost tar looking? My old one would heave as the temps became frigid in the winter. Would be wise to caulk the joints? Or is it not necessary?

Great info, thanks! I am trying to fix a problem made worse after hiring 2nd concrete contractor to redo section of driveway meeting garage floor. I have removed wood and chiseled out most of problematic concrete. It is a 1-car garage so that each joint length is less than 1 foot each. Should I sandwich together foam expansion joint material to fill this space???

Thanks for posting. Jeff: Do you answer directly? This posting is great reading but I skipped to the end to send this question. I think I need to remove and replace every bit that once looked nice. Has anyone else reported this? Four years is pretty good. Concrete is always moving, just slowly. And if you have bad weather, like in Pittsburgh, that expansion and contraction is constant.

Jeff, can you post or email me the link to Amazon for the preferred tile cutter blade you reference in your written outline? Or, email me the blade model number? The Amazon link for this blade is incorrect; it takes you to the cutter itself. Thanks for the tip…just want to get the best stuff!!! Jeff, this is nice of you sharing your experience with others. This is what I am looking for since I am newbie on this kind of stuff.

I will use your guide to do mine. May the good bless with you and your family. I believe the contractor hired by our builder was a little lazy. My husband and I were trying to pull one of the boards out because it had popped up on one end.

In other words, I could only probe 2 to 3 inches deep instead of 4 or more. How do we break the concrete loose from the board so we can remove the board and replace it with a foam backer rod and self-leveling sealant? Jeff, you are so helpful. I have a long double wide driveway and spent most of yesterday digging weeds out of the joints.

The sealant is all gone over the entire driveway. The joints are all empty except for soil. Do I just clean it well and then put the foam in the joint on top of the soil? Also I have cracks in another area. These are not joints. Can I use the same sealant in these cracks and do I use the foam too? Some cracks are wider than others. Hi Jeff, thank you for the information here. It is located on the sidewalk in front of my house.

Will placing backer rod in between joints before adding Sikaflex Self-leveling sealant stop this wobbling? I have done the first layer awaiting to put on the final application.

Should I be worried that mother nature will ruin my work? Please send an email reply. I have a huge concrete patio on top of my 2 car garage. We have always had a water leakage problem from the expansion seams of the concrete which creates a very damp wet garage..

Would this be of good use in this case to stop the water from leaking into garage? Hi blogger, i must say you have high quality content here. Your page can go viral. You need initial traffic boost only. How to get it? This is very helpful, thank you!! Are the directions and sealant recommended the same for expansion joints surrounding a pool? Also, I am a newbie doing this by myself. Is there any harm in removing the old caulk ahead of time a few days and adding the caulk and backer rod later on?

Not sure I can do it all in one day. Here is a tip. A much better way to remove the old sealant is with a multi-tool and a regular old scraping blade attachment. It cuts through the old sealant like a hot knife through butter. A grinder is a bit of overkill I think. Hi I have a problem with a group 6 of tiles coming off because of contraction. I had it repair several times and I had it!! They are located on my patio, I do not want to remove all the tiles in the patio because it will cost a fortune.

After watching your video I thought applying that special product in between the tiles in that area will repair the contraction problem. Please advise. Hello Jeff, Thanks for the very informative post. I love your easy, interesting and thorough writing style that includes everything you need to know for each step.

As I read the post, I could visualize similar projects I have done and recall what I did, or similarly, what I afterwards realized I should have done as you capture in your details. Thanks Dean for your kind words. Really appreciate it.

Always feel free to ask any question or add your own tips!! Foundations often crack during hot summers and droughts because the soil contracts when the moisture dries up; they return to normal after a big rain. It seems that we would actually want water to penetrate the joints of the driveway and sidewalks to encourage constant moisture levels and keep things level. Would a permeable filler material like wood or felt be better in this situation?

I did my patio joint last fall in warm weather, and when down, it looked like I had squeezed a big tube of toothpaste — a continuous row of humps that never flattened. Was I supposed to use some kind of tool, like a putty knife, to level it? I have weeds growing out of the expansion joints in my driveway and was going to buy a tool for this but I thought they were too expensive.

Then I thought about an old rusty pole pruning saw blade I had, so I made a handle for it and bolted it through the holes in the blade and it really rips the weeds and roots out of the crack, then I apply weed killer and then seal it up!

The idea you gave me about the closed cell backing rod and the sika flex self leveling sealant is the answer to the final weedings! Thank You. Thank you for the information and videos.

I have removed the plant matter and am wondering if, when I clean it out deep enough, the foam backer can sit directly on the dirt and will this system keep the grass and weed from growing back. Hi Jeff… How long does it need to cure before driving on and what precautions do I need to do while curing?

I believe my expansion joints are just saw cuts. I do not need Backer rods. After feeling the joint with silka do a smooth over it with a Joint knife? I just got my driveway repaired, I have 4 new concrete slabs. After the job was done, I noticed that there is no expansion joint between the slabs, there is only a crack line.

My husband wants to rent a grinder and make the joints himself. I called the contractor back and he said he knows better, that this way he is protecting against water intrusion.

I am not sure what needs to be done, please advise. Thank you so much!!!!! Jeff, As an added note, advise the do it yourselfers to also invest in a comfortable pair of knee pads. Great info! I purchased the same self leveling sealant but I am having an issue with finding backer rod that works.

What if your driveway is slanted. What type of sika product would you use. I have hairline cracks in those grooves between the concrete. Grass is growing. Should I use backer rod and sealant or just sealant. They poured in two sections at 28 ft. Do we need to seal that joint? One side is 6 in. Can they recut the expansion joints and seal the angled cuts?

They spread concrete right up to garage floor and even slopped it onto sides of garage door trim. Will this pose any problems in Michigan winters? They poured directly on sand, is that okay? When can we safely drive on it? Sincere thanks! I can put a rod about 1. Do I need to fill that hole before I fix the seal?

I have a garage floor that has a cross through it and I assume it is a contraction joint. Difcerence between saw cut and V contraction joints? The edge or perimeter of garage has expansion joint around it with fiber board I assume it looks like a black felt The end of your paragraph says Just remember that expansion joints should always be sealed and filled with flexible joint sealer and never be epoxies or coated over.

Contraction joints can be filled in same manner after coating or sealer applied is this last sentence saying filled contraction joint after the coating. Is on We are having a professional place polyurea with polyaspartica too coat.

Am I supposed to fill the contraction joint after? It fors not make sense to me Is there any way to chat with you? This article looks great on how to repair or replace the expansion joint filler on a driveway. I have an aggregate driveway and am having trouble finding a clear sealant to place over my backerrod.

Using a colored sealant looks terrible on an aggregate driveway. Even stone colored sealant draws attention to the expansion joints. Can I use backer rod if I am sealing the base of a room that has no raised foundation and water is leaking in the room when it rains? Great article. I have an unusual situation. My kids bought a house and just found out the have water penetrating the house and also have termites.

You can actually see dirt. It rained yesterday and the dirt is wet. The sheetrock by the joint is wet and moldy. The base plate has damage and the cabinets on other side of wall have mold in the back. I know we have to fix the joint to keep water from coming up.

Is this a viable solution or will it deteriorate over time? Any advice appreciated! Can you use sand in place of backer rod? Is that determined by the width of the joint? Should thicker joints be applied in layers, allowing one layer to cure before the stacking on a second layer? Hi thank you very much for the useful info.

Do you have any guidance on Driveway which has sunken due to erosion of soil underneath, do you have any recommendation? Is it better to reinstall concrete or use poly foam? Great advice. I like the Sika Flex, but it has a shiny kind of finish that stands out a bit.

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