DIY Thickness Sander / Drum Sander - Can you build it?  HOMEMADE DRUM SANDER THICKNESS SANDER [아빠네공방, 다율나무공방]. Aside from the main drum sanding machine, purchasing this product comes with the variable-speed conveyor and a handwheel with a gear-drive-table elevation. It also has a steel dust hood which maximizes the efficiency of dust collection; and an industrial-grade conveyor belt.  The quite powerful machine can handle sanding wood of up to /2 inches wide. One of the trickiest aspects of using a drum sander is feeding the wood onto the machine.  Of course, it still works as a drum sander which can smoothen out flat wooden surfaces. The belt measures 6 x 89 inches, and has a drum surface speed of surface feet per minute. Buying the set includes the attachments which you can use for both horizontal and vertical applications. When you need a sanding machine, drum sander, disc sander, or spindle sander, www.- has the Web's best selection.  Benchtop Drum Sander JWDS Benchtop Spindle Sander Model Oscillating Edge Sander, Model OESCS. Drum Sander, Model Belt/Disc Sander, Model 31A 1PH /2HP. Drum Sander. JWDS Drum Sander with Open Stand. Drum Sander, Model JWDS Benchtop 6" x 48" Belt / 9" Disc Sander, 3/4HP, 1Ph, V, Model JSG JWDS Drum Sander with Closed Stand. To distinguish red oak from white, look for color, pore distribution, and the presence of tyloses, which is a bubblelike cell structure that fills the pores of wood drum sanding machine works oak, giving it an ability to retain and keep out water. I would like it to have a nice shine and to protect the wood while being good to just sweep or mop in the long run but I have a very small budget. But also, sometimes high traffic areas are wood drum sanding machine works that and they wear much faster. The colors eventually mellow to a rich reddish orange, accented by waves of crimson and black, making cocobolo one of the greatest treasures in woodworking today. When ordering any of these species, make sure the wood has been quartersawn, or you won't be getting lacewood. Would you recommend trying to take it of with just a buffer? As a testament to their exceptional decay resistance, chestnut trees are still harvested decades after their death.

Hi, so i recently bought a house that has finished hardwood that is a dark colour and a friend recommended me to lacquer my new hardwood floor to protect it from scratches and scuffs. I cleaned a portion of my floor and applied some to the corner of my floor and realized it seems to be dull and stopped.

My question is, did I need to apply any lacquer to hardwood to begin with and can i remove the lacquer without damaging my floor and stain? Im not sure what you mean by dull, can you elabourate on that? Maybe use a scraper gently. My floors have very heavy wear patterns. What do you recommend? We have just sanded and varnished our pine floorboards with antique pine water based varnish.

Our floor is now very orange. We are gutted. I have what is possibly a half oiled — but otherwise well finished floor in one room, but there is one dark stain — the old carpet was doubled and the underlay was cardboard and newspaper- I guess I need to sand it?

Lots or a little -can I start sanding this from half way along the grit rating as all is well matched and even, or does the half oiled half not nature of the room mean I start from square one?? Also, the reason I was keen to do this floor was allergies and asthma -are some floor finishes better to keep these at bay?

I have found this site useful but am now unsure which way to finish it off. I would like it to have a nice shine and to protect the wood while being good to just sweep or mop in the long run but I have a very small budget.

The allergy thing is quite important too as I have possibly reacted to oil based paints before when I was doing up the rest of the place. Sand it all back and start again, you may be able to start with a higher grit, just test it. Use a waterbased lacquer if you are concerned with sensitivities. Hello there. We have just had most of our downstairs fitted with Wickes Engineered wood floor. It scratches very easily and flakes off at points.

If you touch the surface with anything sticky, like Sellotape, it lifts off the wax! One of our young daughters has just driven a ride-on toy along our hallway, leaving very visible scratches, but I think the scratches are just where the wax has been scratched off, rather than the wood being damaged. Can we re-seal the floor in something that will a cover the scratches, and b protect the floor better for family life!?

If so, what product do you recommend? Personally I would sand it back, stain it the colour I want, then coat it with polyurethane. Sorry to hear about this mess. We recently installed a new kitchen, and a small part 2 foot, maybe of our floor, which was previously hidden under the old kitchen and was never oiled in the first place, is now visible.

I tried to oil it, in order to make it slightly more matching, and protect it from kitchen stuff. But somehow it turns out darker, a lot darker, and now looks like a stain! Any tips on getting it to look lighter?

But taking away the attention it now gets, mainly from me! Haha, would be good! I have a century old house with varathaned pine floors. I doubt if they can take another machine sanding.

Can I sand them lightly and apply a finish with a bluish or greenish colour to tone down the bossy orange? If so what method for sanding and what product is recommended? Thank you. Personally, I wouldnt try that. Maybe use some sort of paint stripper then give it a light sand and a fresh new finish. It looks like you could hand sand the whole room in just few minutes. Were you hand sanding at the real speed?

If you dont have a buffer then rub it down by hand. I recommend grit now. I prepared some floors for some french polishers in a 5 star hotel in london last week. They were rubbing the floors down by hand between coats.

Its perfectly fine. And if so is that not plywood? Gym floors are generally finished with polyurethane, it sounds like it needs sanding if anything.

If its ply its not going to look great. Hi, I just applied some osmo wood wax finish I live where they make it! I had no idea oak could stain so horribly just from water!

So, I sanded the rings out. Stupid me. When I finished the wax job and came back for a look, I got another shocker. The sanded spots were shining like a of ufos. Brighter and much more reflective than surrounding wood. So, now I need to strip the stuff off and sand the whole floor again and do it right. Can you recommend a product to strip the wax off nothing too nasty?

Could I sand it all off with a hand sander, or would the papers just clog up in seconds? Dunno if that would work here. What a drag, such a small mistake can cost so much extra work! Thanks for any help! Hi Ben, Never mind the question I posted yesterday.

I figured it out. Tedious, but cheap. I wrote local floor guys last night and their prices were pretty insane. I just did half the floor by hand in 3 hours and a euro worth of cheap sandpaper.

Recently I have been learning more about house upkeep and I wanted to learn more about taking care of timber flooring. One thing that stood out to me in this article is looking for the difference between an oiled floor or a lacquered floor. This is something that I have never considered and something I will have to look into. We have just oiled our engineered wood flooring and it looks awful! It was laid a month ago and we were told to oil it to protect it.

The oil has darkened the colour and made it look wet! There are also tide marks everywhere. Is this the usual effect when oiling a floor? Does it go matt in time? Are tide marks normal or is it our application? What can we do to get rid of them? We have only done one coat so far-would more coats reduce the tide marks?

Its really difficult to tell without knowing the product or seeing the floor. If its dry and its still shiny, its staying that way. It might be worth lightly abrading the floor with a g by hand and then buying a matte finish version of the product and going over the top. Do you think a by hand sand and wax would be appropriate? Uses: Because of its premium value, mahogany is generally reserved for fine furniture applications today, but in past centuries this wood was used for shipbuilding because of its excellent resistance to decay.

Woodworkers often use a clear finish on mahogany to preserve its characteristic reddish hue. While it polishes beautifully, resins in the wood have been known to react with glues and cause an undesirable staining effect. Uses: In addition to furniture, hard maple has been and still is used for farm equipment, shoe lasts, tool handles, and other items that needed to withstand a great deal of wear. It turns well, can be carved, and is a good choice for workbench tops, as it withstands impacts.

Uses: Popular for cabinets and furniture, soft maple also is fairly easy to carve, and its even, closed-grained texture holds small details and under-cuttings superbly. Since the grain of maple is subtle, it never dominates the details of the carving, and the wood can be polished to a lustrous shine, which is why it is favored by many Wood Drum Sanding Machine 64 carvers for their best sculptures.

Uses: Red oak is legendary as a fine furniture wood. It also makes excellent flooring, paneling, and moldings, and is extensively used by the domestic kitchen cabinet industry as dimensional stock and as veneers on sheet stock, milled for casework. Uses: Beyond barrels, white oak is used extensively in fine furniture.

Tannic acids, which protect the wood from insect and fungi attacks, make white oak a good choice for outdoor applications, too, where decay resistance is essential.

Its hardness, strength, durability, and easy-to-finish nature have made it an enduring favorite of woodworkers. Uses: Like tropical exotics, Osage orange is often used for smaller projects and as an accent wood. It exceeds the bending strength and shock resistance of most other species. Settlers found its decay resistance was unequaled, especially as lumber for fence posts. Uses: In the past, padauk was a favorite wood for boatbuilding, including structural elements, because of its superb decay resistance, luxurious appearance, and durability.

Today, padauk is generally reserved for small projects and as an accent wood because of its high cost and also out of respect for rain forest preservation efforts. Uses: Eastern white pine is one of the most widely used soft pines for carpentry and construction. Southern yellow is a term used to describe several hard pine species shortleaf, slash, and loblolly sharing similar characteristics.

The wood from these species is relatively heavy, hard, strong, stiff, and shock resistant. Southern yellow pines shrink quite a bit while drying, but the wood is quite stable once it has been seasoned. Uses: Poplar is an excellent choice as a secondary wood for drawer boxes, cabinets, and furniture components, and for molding and millwork that will be painted.

Because of its fine texture and lack of knots, it's also a favorite for carving, turning, and wood sculptures. Uses: Used primarily as an accent in fine furniture and casework, purpleheart is quite beautiful and can remain that way, but it is definitely an indoor wood. A piece of this species that is exposed to the elements will, unfortunately, turn black. It is a popular wood for outdoor furniture, siding, fences, decks, porches, and other architectural elements that will be subjected to the vagaries of weather.

Uses: Rosewood is generally reserved for small projects and special accents. Veneer is its most cost-effective use. High prices and limited availability have inspired man-made substitutes using common domestic veneers that are compressed and dyed to look like rosewood and machine and finish well. Uses: The roots and underlying bark of sassafras are used to distill oil that is used in flavoring candy, as a scent in soap, and for folk medicines.

In some parts of the United States, tea made from sassafras bark and roots has been used as a substitute for imported tea for years. Uses: Woodworkers are willing to pay a premium price for black walnut to complete their finest projects. Considering the price, it is generally reserved for fine indoor applications nowadays such as architectural millwork, cabinetry, and fine furniture.

Uses: Yew steam-bends well, making it a favorite choice for the hoop backs of Windsor chairs. Figured yew, with wavy grain that is dotted by little black knots, is highly prized by carvers and turners. It makes good outdoor furniture, exterior trim, and fences. Historically, yew was preferred for archery bows, because it is so elastic. Home Wood Species Guide.

From Alaska to California, red alder is the most common commercial hardwood. This cousin of birch and aspen generally prefers wet climates and usually grows in groves along stream banks or on moist hillsides. Red alder grows like a weed, doing especially well on logged-out or burned land. It often overtakes the efforts of foresters trying to replant softwood species like fir and spruce. Alder's ability to resist the ravages of forest fires also has contributed to its abundance.

It could be called a chameleon wood, for it is widely used to imitate some mighty pricey competition including walnut, mahogany, and cherry.

Its ruddy coloring and indistinct grain pattern allow a creative finisher to mimic the hues of these other species, and its hardness makes it a suitable wood for furniture and millwork. Also popular with turners, particularly mass production shops, it requires little sanding and has a uniform grain pattern, which reduces tear-out on the lathe.

Around the turn of the century, it was commonplace to find chestnuts towering 90' tall with trunk diameters of 6'. Tragically, it is now near extinction, due to a catastrophic blight first noticed in the Bronx Zoo in A shipment of chestnut trees imported from China and Japan came with an unfortunate stowaway, a fungus that cuts off the flow of sap, causing the tree to die above ground.

Ironically, the fungus can't live in soil, so initially the root systems of chestnuts often survived, sending up shoots that lasted only a few years until they were stricken by the blight themselves. A crossbreeding effort at restoration, with some promising results, is being led by the American Chestnut Foundation located in Bennington, Vermont.

The most common species of ash used for woodworking is generally referred to as white ash, a species that has assumed a legendary role in major league baseball parks. When a batter takes his swings at home plate, he is usually relying on a bat made from white ash.

It's a superior choice for bats because of long fibers, which bend a little upon impact with the ball. These same long fibers make ash an excellent choice for woodworkers who are planning projects that will involve bending and laminating.

Although quite hard and strong, ash offers excellent working properties in the shop. When using properly sharpened cutting tools, ash is rather easy to plane, saw, drill, and chisel. However, its tendency to splinter when dull tools are being used is less forgiving than with many species. Ash also offers outstanding staining and finishing qualities. The wood is comparable to oak in many respects, particularly appearance. The open grain texture shared by both species often fools the casual observer.

Furthermore, oak and ash have almost identical hardness ratings. The beech is a unique-looking tree with grayish bark that is remarkably smooth from its twigs to its trunk, giving romantics a palette to carve their names.

The wood is distinguishable by its evenly distributed tiny red-brown flecks. Even- textured with small, consistently spaced pores, it has superb machining qualities. Beech accepts finishes well and polishes to a nice sheen. Steam bending and laminating both work wonderfully, making it a top choice for bent chair parts. It has poor decay resistance.

It is quite difficult to dry and prone to significant shrinkage and warping during the process. Once dry, however, the wood is relatively stable, if not subjected to extreme swings in humidity. Birch is a species of contradiction. The white bark boldly stands out from all other trees in the forest, but in the shop the species has one of the subtlest appearances. Complementing its whitish color, a faint pattern sweeps across this closed-grained, evenly textured wood—a desirable characteristic when the project's design needs to dominate the wood's appearance.

In the shop, birch works well with both hand and power tools, particularly for a wood that falls between oak harder and cherry softer in hardness. It saws, planes, and turns well, with relatively little tearing and splintering. Birch experiences significant shrinkage while drying, but once properly seasoned it offers good stability and resists warping and twisting.

It is unequaled when it comes to accepting a clear varnish or polyurethane finish but is much less suitable for staining because of its tendency to become blotchy. Butternut is overshadowed by the highly popular black walnut, its closest relative. Yet this is a quality wood worthy of attention in its own right.

Known also as white walnut, a term describing the creamy tan color of the wood, this is a relatively soft species with a hardness rating about half that of its cousin. Figuratively speaking, butternut cuts like butter for sawing, planing, and routing. Even though the wood is easy to cut, butternut's long fibers and softness require that blades be exceptionally sharp to prevent tearing and splintering, especially for turning.

A thin application of sanding sealer can help quite a lot when eliminating butternut "hair," which is composed of fibers that are difficult to sand. Carvers will find that the wood is easy to work and holds its shape, for excellent results. The open grain accepts glue, stains, and finishes well. Adhesives deeply penetrate this ring-porous wood for strong bonds, and the texture and natural oils in butternut combine to create a rich lustrous appearance when it is stained or finished.

A beautiful medium-grained and close-pored softwood, this cedar is actually a member of the "false cypresses. The lumber has working characteristics that are similar to pine, but it is somewhat harder and takes finishes without the same blotching tendencies. It also releases a pungent fragrance during machining that may be objectionable to woodworkers with allergies to other cedars.

The tree grows up to ' high along the Pacific coast in northern California and Oregon, and can reach a diameter as wide as a man is tall. Due to several factors, including a Japanese fungus that has attacked the trees of late, plus juniper scales and spruce mites, supplies of Port Orford white cedar are currently quite limited.

Making its home on the islands and coast of the Caribbean, Spanish cedar also is known as cedrela. This deciduous tree unlike other cedars, which are coniferous grows particularly well in areas of rich, well-drained soil. Cedrela can reach heights of ' or more, given the right conditions.

For perhaps half of that height the trunk is straight and true, with diameters up to 6'. It is somewhat resistant to decay and insect damage, and very resistant to the harmful effects of weather.

The heartwood has a fragrant scent due to secreted oils, which appear as small pockets of sticky resin. This fragrance augments the natural flavor and aroma of fine cigars.

The sapwood is pale pink or beige, while the heartwood warms to a pink or reddish brown when fresh. At times it is remarkably similar in appearance to mahogany.

As it ages, the color mutes to a dull reddish brown with hints of purple. When a cocobolo log is freshly cut, it reveals a rainbow of purples, reds, oranges, and yellows. The colors eventually mellow to a rich reddish orange, accented by waves of crimson and black, making cocobolo one of the greatest treasures in woodworking today.

The tree grows along Central America's Pacific seaboard, where it is harvested for both local use and export. Cocobolo is part of the rosewood family, but its unique colors set this wood apart from other family members. For a highly dense and hard wood, cocobolo is relatively easy to work with both hand and power tools. Care is required when handling the sawdust as, like many tropical woods, it contains toxins that can produce allergic reactions.

Dust masks should definitely be worn. The oiliness of the wood presents a gluing challenge, but using an epoxy or a polyurethane adhesive will improve your rate of success.

Only reaching the lower levels of the rain forest canopy, ebony trees are relatively small. Yet specimens that yield black wood have given it a larger-than-life reputation.

Ebony comes from a variety of species growing in the tropics of India, Africa, Malaysia, and Indonesia. While the most valuable wood has the characteristic solid black color, much ebony lumber is brown, tan, red, or gray, often with stripes and bands creating variations in color.

Persimmon, a domestic wood sometimes called white ebony, is a member of the same family. Two characteristics of ebony are its extreme hardness and brittleness, which make the wood difficult to work with both power and hand tools. Cutting edges are likely to experience severe blunting, and chipping is a problem. Pre-boring for screws or nails is essential to avoid splitting. Because it is so dense, gluing generally calls for epoxy or polyurethane adhesives.

A favorite of western settlers for their wheel hubs and rims, this shock-resistant species has a wildly twisting and interlocking grain pattern. Elm resists splitting better than any other common domestic species, which makes it a poor choice Wood Drum Sanding Machine 65 for firewood. However, elm is an excellent choice when another wood member is being pounded into it, such as when back spindles are pounded into a Windsor chair seat made from elm a very popular choice for this application.

Dutch elm disease, a fungus carried by bark-boring beetles accidentally introduced from Europe, has ravaged nearly the entire range of elms in the United States. Supplies of elm lumber and veneer are still widely available, but this disease will undoubtedly make elm much more scarce in the future.

Andrew Jackson earned the nickname "Old Hickory" for his exceptional toughness as a general during the War of The name was quite fitting because hickory is one of the toughest and strongest woods among our domestic species.

It exceeds ash, oak, and maple in both strength and hardness and has more than twice the shock resistance of those species. The user operates the drum sander while standing up. The drum sander consists of the sander body itself, a large dust bag, and a drum on which you attach large belts of sanding paper. The drum sander rips off the bad spots, the high spots, stains, paint drips, and even some deeply embedded stains from your floor.

If you need to take your wood floor down to bare wood, a drum floor sander is a perfect tool to do it. Be careful, though, as you can carve unsightly, permanent grooves in the wood. An even more powerful floor tool than a drum sander is a floor stripper for removing dried glue, mastic, mortar, understanding, linoleum, and vinyl tile.

Buy the sanding paper at the tool rental yard—you likely will not find this type of paper at your local hardware store. The rental yard employees may recommend that you use at least three gradations of sandpaper: coarse, medium, and fine. It is better to overbuy sanding paper, as most rental yards will buy back unused paper, though you should confirm this ahead of time.

The drum sander is the real workhorse of hardwood floor sanding. It is a massive piece of equipment, too heavy for most people to lift—two people are required to carry it. An orbital vibrating floor sander is, like the drum sander, operated while standing up. The difference is that the sanding head and sandpaper do not rotate; instead, they vibrate in tight circles.

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