Remember Me? What's New? Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 Last Jump to page: Results 1 to 15 of Thread: Marking knife problem. Marking knife problem I had to cut several dados and I realized that my marking Knife is not great for that task. I have the Blue Bruce small knifee, it is a nice tool and it fits nice on my hand. The problem is that the blade is not substantial enough to draw a line with against a ruler.

My first knife pull is very light to vee point marking knife light mark the wood. The second pull is a little harder and third one is hard. So this creates a nice knife mark and I can chisel to the line.

The problem is the blade is thin and it follows the wood grain. I have problems chiseling to the line because the second one is too close and they become one. I like the Vee point or diamond shape vee point marking knife light. So I can use it both directions. I had Vee Point Marking Knife Qr Code another one that was a single bevel, and I rather have double bevel vee point marking knife light point. Do you guys have any recommendation? I was thinking of Japanese marking knife good thick blade vee point marking knife light I looked the Japan Woodworker site and they have one.

I placed the order last week, but I still waiting for shipment. I will cancel it if I get a better option. Any vee point marking knife light Thanks, Fidel. Google Sponsor Google Sponsor. CA Posts 12, I like the single bevel knives, such as this one from Japan Woodworker. The only disadvantage is that you have to buy a left hand and a right hand. Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good. I've started using a cheapo paring knife from the local discounter.

It's really good steel, and takes an amazing edge. I opted for a hooked paring knife, with plastic handle. For marking rip cuts, I use Vee Point Marking Knife Us a Japanese Kebiki marking gauge. I use the LV Utilitas version with good result along and cross grain. I always forget. Is it the letter "S" or the letter "C" that is silent in the word scent? That was one of my 'tool surprises' this year.

I have a basic single beam kebiki with a beefy, sharp blade. A couple of passes with a plane to smooth the rough but straight edge, finishes the cut. Add a little to the final dimension if you use lifht technique. For across-grain marking I mostly use a German- style vee point marking knife light carving knife. I like the Japanese marking knives, too.

I have a spearpointed version which works well if Poiht need a deeper marking. Steve Latta did a review of marking knifes in an article for FWW in Here's the link.

Cheap and easy to find and karking blades are replaceable. Regards, Gary. Some wood was added to the the shank for more comfortable use: Marking Knife 1. I use the blue spruce knife without much issue, as much as I like it I am considering a japanese knife for knifee cuts. I have what's called a 'grafting' vee point marking knife light for bonsai which strikes a shocking resemblance to a marking knife for woodworking, so I may test it out to see how it works since a good set is surprisingly expensive.

I have several marking knives but I usually reach for my iGaging marking knives. I have one with the long thin blade that's great for dovetails and the thicker, wider iron for general marking. Both have V shaped edges to work in either direction. I also have a Paul Seller's style Stanley double edge knife. I works pretty well but prefer the the single edge knives. I use these with and across the grain. It took little work to get the blades sharpened but probably only about 10 minutes.

I slightly round the point. I'm not sure why but it helps them cut smother and straighter. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit. Striking a line with a marking knife is as much technique knjfe it is about the tool. Cutting too deeply too soon will result in the edge of the blade being sandwiched by the grain, and then following this.

The correct method in striking a line is to use several light vee point marking knife light, rather than one or two deep strokes. Even a vee point marking knife light knife can strike a deep line if this is done in this manner. Nevertheless, a heavier duty knife will always be a better choice in this area. The two features that I look for in a heavy duty knife are 1 capable of handling a large amount of downforce, and 2 a broad, V-blade that may be used left- or right and will track against a straight edge.

Here are three options. One of the best of the high end knives lgiht by Chris Vesper. This works as a skew chisel for cleaning out half-blind dovetails as well. I also have this inexpensive pocket knife from Lee Valley, called the Woodworker's Knife.

I have honed away the secondary bevel. Make your own. Use an old Stanley blade. Markjng I used a cheap Japanese Kadeshi This is single-sided, and so Marjing needed two. Regards from Perth Derek. I bought this knife from Phil Lowe about 7 years ago but it vee point marking knife light a single bevel so I bought a Hock blade for it. Cuts rip or cross grain without deviation. I also have a Stanley folding knife like Paul Sellers uses with replaceable blade that is light, sharp and easy vee point marking knife light use for smaller work.

Posts 12, WHY would LV put a hooked blade on a "woodworker's knife"? That is the last shape I'd want on one. How can you carve with it? How about a box cutter. They work well, just be sure to tilt the knife so the bevel against the straight edge is vertical. You can make pojnt Paul Sellers calls a knife wall. Join Date May Posts 2, Originally Posted by Gary Daniel.

Originally Posted by george wilson. Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 Last Jump to page:. Sponsored Forums Private Forums Authors. All times are GMT The time now is PM. All rights reserved.

Jan 15,  · There are many types of marking knives. I have several for different tasks. I cannot imagine working to precision without a fine line to guide me. There are two outstanding knives for dovetails, and both have strong similarities, these being ergonomics (hold like a pencil), vee blade (for cutting on the right and left), and a flat back. Narex Czech Steel Super Thin Dual Bevel Dovetail Carving Striking Marking Knife with Hardened Cr-Mn Steel Heat Treated Blade to HRc 58 out of 5 stars $ $ Get it as soon as Wed, Mar FREE Shipping on orders over $25 shipped by Amazon. Left Hand / Japanese/Kiridashi Craft Pocket Knife. Clarke Brothers Marking Knife – Wood Marking Gauge – Premium Woodworking Tool with Double High Carbon Steel Blade – Top-Quality Design with Ultra-Sharp Blade – Beautiful Wooden Handle. out of 5 stars $ $ Get it as soon as Tue, Mar FREE Shipping on .

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