WoodCraft is a great resource to find Vacuum Chambers. With the freshly cut green wood you have a high content of moisture in the wood and the hot wax heats and expands the water in the end grain, several coats of hot wax are usually required to overcome that issue. This will help you sealing wood for turning queue a smoother finished surface. Here we'll show you how to make quality bowl blanks from a promising log. What challenges have you faced in preparing your wood? These products can typically be applied with a brush or a roller. I am trying to season New Sealing wood for turning queue hardwoods to make Putarino Maori woo.

If I was doing a project where I wanted to be absolutely sure there was not splitting, checking or cracking I would use Anchor Seal.. Rick from RickTurns shows us another way to seal end grain on your woodturning logs using Elmers Glue. Notice the nice little jig he set up to slice his logs into slabs and other usable features. A pretty interesting video since he actually performed some tests on the best method to keep logs from splittng!

A product similar to AnchorSeal but cheaper. Next time they have free delivery I think I will grab a gallon to use on some of my choice wood finds. AnchorSeal Stops Logs from Checking and Splitting There is a commercial product made specifically for sealing the end of wet wood , wether small stuff like we use or whole tree trunks.

I have always used Rockler Green…. I have always used Rockler Green Wood end sealer or Anchorseal to seal the ends of my wood. It will seal the wood from cracking until you are ready to use it. Another advantage is, I believe it keeps bugs out of the wood. The wood I bring in is not only crack free but bug free. Had 3 trees taken down and milled into lumber. Cut or split your rounds in half as soon as possible. This will let the wood move as it dries and greatly reduces the chance of splitting your wood.

Build jigs that you can use to hold a log steady as you flatten one side of it. I built a cradle for use in my planner. Once I have one good flat surface I can use a band saw to cut out bowl blanks or the table saw to produce billets for spindle turning.

You can use a crosscut sled with clamps, on your table saw to trim rough wood. Keep your fingers away from the cutting action of your power tools. If you are planning on drying the wood then you should cover the ends of the wood with paint, wax, or a wood sealer. Green wood can split very quickly as every spot you cut the wood is a place that it can now lose moisture. You can turn green bowls to a rough state.

The thickness of the bowl should be 10 percent of the diameter of the bowl. Attach your bowl blank to a faceplate and mount it on the lathe. Be sure to pull your tailstock up to support the blank.

A Sealing Green Wood For Turning Item rough bowl blank is out of balance and the tailstock gives the needed extra support. When you turn on your lathe use a slow speed and stand clear of the firing zone. The firing zone is at right angles to the lathe where the bowl blank is. This is the direction the wood would go if it flew off of the lathe. You want to match the size of your faceplate to the size of your turning blank.

Most lathes come with a faceplate this size. Make sure it will fit on the arbor of your lathe. Try to attach the faceplate on a flat surface if possible. Go slow in shaping the outside of the bowl since you will be initially cutting a lot of air. Once you have rough turned the bowl then let the bowl dry for a few months. While drying the rough turned bowl, cover the bowl with brown paper, over the outside of the bowl, taping it closed over the opening.

This will hold the moisture in and prevent the bowl from drying out too quickly, preventing cracking. After drying the rough turned bowl slowly in your shop you are ready to finish it on the lathe. Place the dried blank on a faceplate and turn the bowl to a finished shape and it will now stay round. You can also finish a green bowl to a thinner-walled bowl and then enjoy the natural warping that takes place as it dries. Consistency in the thickness of the bowl is what allows the wood to change shape and not split.

For spindle billets you should let the wood dry out if you need to maintain the circular shape of the spindle, that is if you are fitting the piece into a drilled hole. However, if you are going to finish the piece then the finish you use would allow the work to dry slowly over time. Most spindle turnings are quite small and finishing with carnauba wax provides enough of a sealant to eliminate the dangers of cracking or splitting as the item dries.

Of course, you could wax the ends and wait awhile before turning with the wood if you thought it was still too wet. I turned a Kraut Pounder out of the piece of firewood above. The lathe did bounce Best Wood For Turning Tool Handles Queue a bit but once the edges were trimmed a bit it settled down and turned nicely. Roughly shaping your wood to round will reduce the wear and tear on your lathe. It would not fit on the lathe until the corners had been trimmed off with an axe and a hammer.

That was a piece of really rough wood. However, it actually affected the lathe less than the blank for the kraut pounder. Keep checking the driveshaft and the tailstock to ensure that your wood is always securely attached to the lathe. So head out to your stash of wood and get some wood ready for turning. What piece of wood has you excited about turning? What challenges have you faced in preparing your wood? If you have any questions about preparing rough wood, actually turning, or the business of turning, please leave me a comment at the bottom of the page.

These posts are for you, the woodturner. If you like turning projects or articles related to the business of turning then please sign up for the Turning For Profit newsletter. Has anyone ever tried vacuum packing to prevent drying? I was thinking of trying it. Lamar Wright. Click to expand With the latex paint, do a couple of coats, then while it is still wet, slap some plastic on it. The paint by itself is a short term fix and adding the plastic makes a good seal. No idea who thought that one up, but read it some time ago and thought it sounded like a good idea.

I have also used titebond as a sealer on smaller spindle blanks and it works pretty good. No idea how it compares price wise. Bill Boehme Administrator Staff member. Beta Tester. Dennis Weiner said:. Bill I have really good success using canning wax in my Electric skillet. Seldom produces any mess unless I drop a blank in it which did happen one day. I saw it splashing toward my face and thought oh no this is going to hurt. It didn't of course because the was melts at a low temperature.

However it was hell cleaning it out of my mustache and I never got it out of my shirt. Other than that it's fantastic for saving smaller blanks. When my logs start to crack, which they will eventually no matter what you do, I cut them in half at the crack and then cut them up into turning squares.

Then I seal the ends by dipping them in the wax. This works so well I now have to give wood away because I simply have too many blanks. For bowl blanks up to 12"x 5" I roll them in the wax to seal the edges and then dip the ends. These last a very long time before cracking I'm talking years. It's much faster and not as messy as anchorseal.

Bill I have really good success using canning wax. I was in a pawn shop a few years ago that had odds and ends of paint, from quarts to five gallon buckets. Just wondering about latex paint. I like the idea of putting the plastic wrap over the wet paint. Will give it a try. Mike Johnson. Many of the big box stores have a discount paint shelf that have cans of returned paint that was the wrong color.

You can purchase 1 gallon and 5 gallon cans of latex paint at a good discount. I have used different colors to readily identify different species of wood when sealing the end grain on wood blanks.

It can be a challenge remembering the Sealing Green Wood For Turning On different batches of wood that you collect and process over the years. Once the wood has been air dried and cut to the final size I usually seal the end grain with wax.

Canning wax, Candle wax, Paraffin wax, any type of wax that turns to liquid when heated will work fine for sealing wood blanks. Yes white and yellow glue works as a sealer. I thought it was a little expensive when I looked so I didn't pursue it very far. I don't typically have that much glue laying around. I tried roofing tar simply because i had it. It works but of course it's phenomenally messy. I also tried calking of various types. Again just because I had it but would not recommend it.

Larry Copas. Years ago I frequented a walnut sawmill. One of their products was walnut gun stocks. They had a couple of 55 gallon drums about a quarter filled with paraffin. To melt the paraffin they kept a small fire going under the barrel. Dipped both ends of the green gun stocks to seal. I have a roaster oven in the shop filled with paraffin that I use to dip the end of small turning pieces.

The problem with paraffin dips is the wood is cold while the wax is hot. Sometimes the paraffin pre-maturely cracks. Usually not a problem but Anchor Seal is better. I have a sawmill and use Anchor Seal sometimes on high dollar logs. To be effective A S should be applied on the log within a few hours of it being bucked before any cracks start.

A second coat should be applied a few days later. I don't see the commercial mills around me using it for three reasons. Its expensive, its expensive to apply properly, and end checks in lumber stop at the first sticker.

John, since your logs were cut a couple of weeks ago you have two choices. The checks have already started and will only get worse. Second choice is get the logs sawed and put the lumber on sticks. That's the choice I would make. The "Fry Daddy" oil cookers also have the adjustable thermostats that work good for melting and applying wax to wood blanks. You can use a cheap chip brush to apply the hot wax and leave it in the cooker and put the lid on when you are done sealing end grain on the wood.

That is the reason I usually use latex paint or anchor seal on the initial logs or half logs. With the freshly cut green wood you have a high content of moisture in the wood and the hot wax heats and expands the water in the end grain, several coats of hot wax are usually required to overcome that issue. A cold applied compound works better on the freshly cut green wood that has a lot of water exiting the end grain the first couple of days.

If I am running short on time I will at least cut the logs in half and then coat the end grain to prevent checking and cracking on fresh cut logs.

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