Make strong, tight-fitting box joints on your router table—great for small- to medium-sized boxes!  Are the indexing Keys compatible with the old rockler box joint jig?on that model, the indexing is done with long bars that are a pain to store as to swap out. The keys look to be a smart enhancement, but I don't want to buy a whole new jig. And if they are, can I purchase the keys by themselves? Douglas C. Jun 25, Clever jig makes pattern routing safer and faster. By Matt Kenney Jun 02, Ed Pirnik and Cari Delahanty. Pattern routing is the perfect technique for cutting multiple, identical workpieces quickly and accurately. With this method, a workpiece is rough cut to its shape at the bandsaw, and attached to a pattern which rides along the bearing of a router bit mounted to a router table.  The key to using a router table safely is keeping your fingers well away from the spinning bit, and Seattle-based woodwork Tim Celeski has a brilliant solution. Celeski’s pattern routing jig is composed of two independent components: a base plate and clamping plate. The clamping plate can be locked down to its mating base plate in a variety of positions to accommodate a wide range of pattern shapes. This is my first attempt at making what I call a round box. I saw videos on YouTube showing how people make drums with their homemade jigs. I do not know how to play the drums so I decided I would make the wooden shell and make a round box. The Saved by LumberJocks. Woodworking Workshop Woodworking Jigs Popular Woodworking Woodworking Projects Woodworking Basics Welding Projects Woodworking Furniture Carpentry Homemade Drum. More information People also love these ideas. This well-built router jig for making round boxes key is neatly arranged with a built-on, rourer countershaft unit driven by a single-phase motor that gives twelve spindle speeds of 40, ksy,,, and rpm. Thank you. It has the major parts of the 'finger' support but lacks the actual finger, a part that is easy enough to make. Get your paper done by an expert No matter what kind of academic paper you need, it is simple and secure to hire an essay writer router jig for making round boxes key a price you can afford at Essay Fountain. Powerful cap-start, cap-run motor and a quiet-running V-belt drive spindle. Single-phase motor with infinitely variable speeds from 50 - rpm. If you collect, routsr additional muscle as the unit weighs about kg.

Use those newly acquired and quickly mastered skills to finish off the precision parts needed for this machine. The 4 threaded rods are each 4" long and bolt this base and the x axis frame together. They are also used to level the frame. I used a 1" spade bit to counter bore the holes in the mdf. You should go deep enough to allow the stud and nut to sit below the surface of the wood. There are two table support bars that bolt to the x axis frame.

Then with the plates still attached to the frame weld the tubes to the plates. By doing this you ensure that the finished part will be able to be removed and bolted back in place on the frame. You don't have to weld the entire end of each tube the plates, just put four good tack welds on the corners at each end.

Then you can unbolt the support bars from the frame and fully weld the tubes. Also when drilling the three holes in the tube be sure to drill through both sides. You will only need to tap the top side on the tube but the through holes will allow you to transfer the hole locations on tho the work table. This is the surface that the material will be clamped to. I chose to use MDF for this purpose because it will be a sacrificial piece and can be cheaply replaced when needed.

I will be screwing down work to this and can cut into it if needed. The screws need to be fully threaded. The six screws are used to mount and level the work table to the machine.

The counter bored Router Jig For Making Round Boxes 5g holes allow the screw heads to sit below the table surface so material can be attached easily. The electronics for this router consist of main power switch, power supply, stepper motor controller, power relays, stepper motor cables, outlet and an e-stop. I plan to adding limit switches and cable carrier e-chain soon. This is wired to the main power switch which has a red indicator light. When switched on the v AC is feed to the power supply and relays.

This is wired to the Gecko G The relays are used to power the Bosch Colt router and a shop vac to suck up the shavings when running. The relays are controlled by the G which takes commands from the computer, so they can be controlled by the code you run.

The DB9 connectors on the G connect to the stepper motors. Each stepper needs a resistor placed between pins between 1 and 5 to control the current to the stepper. Gecko provided the proper resistor with the steppers motors I purchased from them. The resistor needs to be wired to the connector that is connected directly to the controller.

The stepper motor is wired to pins of the connector. I made extension cables for the stepper motor with DB9 ends and the cat5 network cable from the parts list. The network cable has 8 conductors but i soldered pairs of wires together to get four connections for the stepper motor.

The enclosure I used is an outdoor electrical box which I decided to use after seeing Building an Electronics Enclosure. The switches are mounted in a standard outlet box and the relays are bolted to the side of that box.

The power supply was mounted in the box to the bottom side and the G was placed on the top panel. The e-stop switch was also mounted to the top panel. I made all the connections using using 14 gauge stranded wire and crimp on spade connecters. The wiring picture is basic but does include all the needed connections. I am using Mach3 to control my router. Mach3 is CNC control software that takes G-code and outputs signals through the parallel port on a computer to the G It is highly recommended that you use a desktop computer to run mach3 and your cnc.

You will also need a CAM software to convert your designs into G-code or you could learn the G-code language and write your own programs in a text editor. The picture is a screen shot of Mach3 which will take some time to learn but there are many videos on the Artsoft website and this software is well supported. HI, First i want to say thanks for this write up and the time you've put into it.

I'm building this machine and am almost done. I have a question for you on the gantry uprights. It seems like you Router Jig For Making Round Boxes Not Found wouldn't need to drill holes the whole lenghth of the tube as the Z axis has a good amount of travel.

Thats alot of holes to drill if there not usefull. Would you say after using the machine that all those holes are a little overkill? Also i added some support plates under the Z axis motor mount plate as it wanted to tilt forward a hair binding the leadscrew. Thanks for all the info and hope to hear back about the uprights Reply 7 years ago on Introduction. That's great that your building the machine, please post pictures when its done.

The holes on the gantry uprights allow you to adjust the height of the gantry and the clearance between the bit and the work table. I designed it this way but did not fully follow through on the other change that makes this more useful. The idea is that for tall parts you can move the gantry up to get the needed clearance.

For shorter parts, like sheet material you could move the gantry down closer to the part. The part I have not done is add a second set of mounting holes on the router mounting plate.

The other set of holes would allow you to space the bearings on the z-axis further apart. This does two things. With the bearings further apart the router mounting plate becomes more rigid to resist higher cutting forces but it also reduces the travel of the z-axis.

This reduced travel is fine though because you can move the whole gantry closer to the part and because the part is not as thick you don't need the full travel.

The idea really boils down to, if your cutting short materials, like sheet material, you can adjust the machine to optimize it for the material. Then if you want to cut something thicker you can adjust the machine to get max clearance and travel.

You are right about the holes though, I could have done less, maybe just enough for a low ,medium and high setting. But the router mounting plate still needs more holes to make this complete.

I actually plan on doing this soon because I want to use the machine to drill a bunch of holes and moving the gantry lower and gaining some rigidity would make the machine better suited for this purpose. Here are the pics of my build of this machine. Very straight forward instructions. Also the dust boot i had to make for the machine. Question 3 years ago on Introduction. Hi I am in Australia , cannot get a Nema oz in , they have Nema oz in rated at 3.

Do you think this motor would be suitable for a CNC built to router wooden signs , boxes etc.. Thank you Gordon Johnson. Reply 3 years ago. I am planning to build also. It is a great help for me and think before i start creating. This is one of the best instructables I have ever seen. I will be using a lot of your ideas and parts references to build my own.

Thanks again for all the effort you have put in, and the attention to detail. I really love it.. Here i'm trying to make my own CNC.. IDK if it's going to be strong enough to hold it , if i needed some help , can u give a little?

Reply 5 years ago on Step 5. By Doug Costlow Follow. More by the author:. For those of you who already know about CNC routers here are the specs for my machine.

One of the aspects of any home built CNC machine is the use of each material in the construction of the machine vs the quantity of that material you have to buy. You are only building one machine so you don't want have to buy more material than you need to build that machine.

You especially need to consider this when deciding the length of travel you want for each axis, because this decision effects almost every other part of the machine. This was the general design process I went through for my CNC machine Decide what length of travel you need for each axis if you have a specific project in mind for your cnc then start with it's sizes requirements Decide what type of linear motion system you will use for the machine Decide what kind of linear drive you will use for each axis Decide what type of drive motor and controller you will use Decide the material you will use to construct the machine Based on the previous decisions, design a machine on paper or a CAD software of you choice this does not have to be a complete design, just enough so you know the total quantity of the materials you'll need Determine if you will need any special tools for your design Determine the overall cost of your design, which includes the cost of tools you may not have Decide that you can't spend that much money on the machine and return to step 1 I went through this process 5 times before coming to a final design.

The pictures show the different versions of the router as my design progressed. I know most people would consider this to be overkill but for me doing all this important. I knew that once I finished actually building the machine I would have something that fit my needs and my budget without any headaches do to poor planning. Here is my thinking for each one of the design steps I outlined: Travel : My first thought for a CNC machine was to build molds for the vacuum forming machine I have already built.

Linear Motion : There are many options to choose from for linear motion. Commonly used methods for CNC routers include, drawer slides , skate bearings , v-groove bearings , round linear rail and profile linear rail. These are ordered in terms of cost, I would recommend going the best system you can afford. You can save some money in other areas of the machine but getting a good motion system will pay off in cutting quality.

I chose to use round linear rail. This system uses precision ground and hardened steel shafts and linear bearings that use small steel balls that roll on the shaft and re-circulate through channels within the bearing. This offers smooth low friction movement and has good resistance to forces placed on the bearing in any direction.

There are many different manufactures of these types of rails and bearings and costs can vary quite a bit. I got my rails and bearings from a reseller in China on ebay.

The ebay store is linearmotionbearings and the prices were the best I found online. They often sells kits with three sets of rails and two bearings for each rail, which is what is needed for a 3-axis CNC.

The kit I got uses 20mm x mm long rails for the x-axis, 16mm x mm long rails for the y-axis and 12mm x mm long rails for the z-axis. Linear Drive : The three basic options to drive each axis of a CNC router are ribbed belts, screws, and a rack and pinion.

Screw drive systems work by attaching a nut to the movable part of each axis, a threaded rod is then fed through the nut and locked into position at both ends. The screw is turned by the drive motors and the nut moves along the screw. ACME screws have trapezoidal threads that are either cut or rolled into a steel rod. ACME screw threads are used on common C-clamps. Their thread shape makes the screw stronger than the threads on standard bolts.

When these threads are precision cut they are perfectly suited to drive a CNC router. Ten threads per inch means that if the screw in spun around 10 times the attached nut will move 1 inch along the screw. For any screw size multiple individual threads can be cut on the screw, this is referred to as the number of starts the screw has. A single start screw has one thread a 2-start has two threads and a 5-start has five threads.

What is the significance of multiple threads on a screw? Well there are two things that make multiple start screws better for CNC machines.

First multiple start screws are more efficient at turning the rotational force on the screw into linear force on the nut. This means it takes less torque for the drive motors to move each axis. Second, multiple start screws increase the lead of the screw, which is how far a nut would move if the screw was rotated once. To determine the lead for a screw divide the number of starts by the number of threads per inch.

This is important because the electric drive motor can produce the most torque at low speeds, and with a higher lead the nut will move farther per revolution of the screw and that means the motor can spin at a lower speed to move the axis of the machine.

Another important thing to note is how precise the fit between the nut and the screw is. A standard nut on a bolt will wiggle a small amount back and forth and in CNC terms this is known as backlash. You want to reduce the amount of backlash you have between the nut and the screw because every time the screw changes rotation direction that small amount of play in nut will throw of your CNC position off and your parts might not come out correctly sized.

There are ways with both hardware and the software you use to reduce the amount of backlash you have. On the software side there are simple settings that can compensate for backlash and on the hardware side you can use an anti-backlash nut. I purchased anti-backlash nuts from dumpsterCNC and again you can find part numbers on the parts list.

Typically the effects of backlash can be reduced to the point that parts can be made to within a few thousands of an inch. Most people will need to buy these parts in order to build the machine. In order to build this CNC router you will need to drill about a million holes in both steel and aluminum. You will also need to tap about half an million holes.

Use a sharp drill bit and set your drill press to a low speed RPM if possible. I would recommend purchasing a new 19 drill bit for this project because that is the size needed to drill and tap for an M5 screw, which is used on the vast majority of the machine. This is the ten step process I used while building the machine. Apply Dykem near the locations where holes are needed on the part Use your scribe to mark the locations of the holes with two intersecting lines, use a combination square to measure for the location of each hole Use a small transfer punch to mark the location of all holes transfer punches normally have a sharper tip which should make marking the center easier Use a center punch placed in the dent made by the transfer punch to make a larger dent for the drill bit Place the part on your drill press and center the mark and the drill bit by bringing the drill bit down onto the part with the tip of the drill in the dent made by the punch, hold the drill bit in this position Clamp the part to the drill press table; I usually did this with a welding vice grip.

Bring the drill bit up off the part and turn on the drill press, slowly move the drill bit down onto the part making sure the bit centers on the dent. Bring the bit back up, turn off the drill press and squirt some tap magic directly on the drill bit. Let it flow down through the flutes of the drill bit until a few drops fall on the part.

Turn the drill press back on and proceed to drill the hole. For the best results you should follow a technique called peck drilling. This allows for the chips to fly off the drill bit which ensures that the bit will not get jammed up in the hole. Then repeat this process until you drill all the way though the part or to the depth you want. Its also good re-lubricate with tap Magic during this process.

Un-clamp the part from the drill press and de-bur the bottom side of the hole and clear any chips off of the drill press table. This ensures that the part will still sit flat on the drill press table for the next hole you drill. Proceed to the next hole in the same manner.

Tapping a hole is the process of cutting threads into a part so that you can fasten a screw to the part. I made a special tool to help in tapping the many M5 holes for this machine. The hole is drilled with a 9 bit, which is the same size as an M5 tap.

You place the tap in the hole and hold it in place over the hole in the part you are tapping. The tool holds the tap square and true to the part you are tapping which is very important. Here is my process for tapping a hole. Make sure the tap is clear of any chips or debris. I used a air compressor and blow gun to clean the holes and tap. Put some tap magic on the tap and put it into the hole of the tapping tool.

Hold the tool in place and turn the tap clockwise for a standard right hand thread. You should feel the tap break free a little when this is done which is good. What this does is breaks the shavings in the hole free and they fall into the flutes of the tap. This allows you to continue tapping the hole without having the shavings build up which leads to breaking the tap off in the hole if you are not careful.

Continue like this until the hole is tapped. Then clean the tap and tool and proceed to the next hole. For this project you will mostly be tapping holes it steel and aluminum.

The shaper is extremely well engineered - even the motor drive belt cover is a 10mm thick iron casting - with a 1. All these features combine to offer an outstandingly refined shaper with metric execution.

The robust, box-cube working table has normal T-slots for 14 mm threaded studs , a V-groove for bar work, and can be rotated to help with difficult jobs. The paint finish is original - but a little tired. The machine is stamped No. Included with the machine are:- the Pinondo service manual, the "Lathes" Shaper User Book , Sharpening of Lathe and Shaper Tools book, 5-off T-nuts plus a 20 mm lifting eye, and a suitable short lifting strap.

Delivery, suitably strapped to a standard pallet, can be arranged at cost. The stop button is inoperative as the motor can be rapidly disengaged by the clutch. Metric cross and top slide feed dials and a micrometer dials on the carriage handwheel and tailstock spindle. LowVo light unit and full coolant equipment. Built in very good overall condition.

No pictures I'm afraid to happy to discuss over the phone and demonstrate under power. This is a very high-quality unit in excellent, unmarked condition.

Excellent order with an unmarked table. Al metric machine. SOLD within the day.. However, all the major components are fully working which include all parts except apron carriage rack. I have, in addition, a 4-inch Burnerd chuck and a 5-inch Hardinge chuck with taper and lock screw plus outer jaws, a taper-turning attachment, fixed steady, 4-way toolpost, a new Hardinge chuck backplate complete with the correct taper fixing these are very hard to find , thirty 5C collets with taper-rachet lock bar.

All the countershaft under-drive components are there - complete with a recent new Clark motor. The headstock, gearbox and tailstock are all in excellent condition.

I believe that the leadscrew is a 3 mm metric pitch. The cabinet is made from 4 mm. Roller-bearing spindle with the ability to pass a 1-inch 25 mm bar.

Mounted on the correct maker's stand with chip tray and cupboard and drawer storage. Accessories include a 5-inch 3-jaw chuck, the correct 6-inch half-depth body independent 4-jaw chuck, quick-set toolpost with 7 tool holders, fixed steady, travelling steady, faceplate, catchplate, a set of screwcutting changewheels to extend the threading capability of the screwcutting gearbox, a spare saddle, cross slide and top slide and set of original maker's literature - the handbook, parts list, guarantee and test certificate.

Single-phase motor with a built-in reversing switch. In full working order and ready to use. This compact machine has a table mm x mm with longitudinal travel of mm, in traverse of and a maximum distance between the spindle nose of mm. Driven by a 1 h. The miller is especially well equipped and ready for immediate use; accessories include an unused 8-inch horizontal and vertical rotary table; a 3-jaw chuck for mounting on the rotary table; two ER collets chucks and collets; a full clamping kit; a high-quality machine vice by Abwood; a selection of end mills and slotting drills and the maker's handbook.

I have owned this machine from new, used it only infrequently and kept it in perfect condition. A very detailed compound version that has never been steamed and runs well on air. Original boiler certificate from MJ Engineering.

This was a silver medal winner at the Alexander Palace Model Engineering Exhibition in the mid 's. More pictures available. It will run as a dynamo or motor giving about 30 volts at to rpm. Phone: Clarkson Vertical Steam Engine. The machine combines five functions: a lathe, a saw bench, drill press, disc sander and a horizontal borer - all were powered from one powerful 1.

A very sturdy, well-built lathe complete with the maker's effective all-V-belt-drive countershaft and single-phase motor. Complete with a 3-jaw chuck, 4-way toolpost, set of screwcutting changewheels, faceplate, catchplate and a tailstock chuck.

I bought this size of miller for a specific job, but which I can now get a friend to on his Bridgeport, so the Warco is now surplus to requirement. The miller is listed on the Warco web site where the comprehensive specification can be found..

Single-phase motor with infinitely variable speeds from 50 - rpm. It's likely that "Pallet Line" would be able to deliver. Single-phase motor with push-button, No-Volt safety release starter. This ultimately-versatile drill is superbly-constructed, still in its maker's paint finish, in excellent mechanical condition and fitted with internal, oil-bath-lubricated gearing for high-torque at low speeds.

Mounted on a robust cabinet stand with a storage cupboard, two drill chucks and two machine vices. Single-phase electrics. Long-term owned and carefully used. As no feedscrews or nuts were available in England, I took the parts to a German machine shop in my home town of Solingen - a shop that works with the Wilkinson factory in town yes, it's a German company! The owner made new feedscrews in stainless steel and cut both X and Y phosphor-bronze nuts including the much sought-after half-nut from solid stock - like this.

The man is really easy to deal with - but he doesn't speak English and he isn't cheap either, but because he has a real enthusiasm for these old machines I get these things at about half the price most other shops in Solingen offered.

Email: Dieter. Falkowski t-online. You'd have to send over the parts - because as no two surviving Centecs seem to be exactly the same - to be sure that you get back exactly what you need.

This well-equipped lathes is backgeared, screwcutting and fitted with tumble-reverse, a detachable gap to the bed and a most unusual super-fine feed to the carriage through worm-and-wheel gearing. Equipment includes all the accessories collected by the last, long-term owner including: a "Target" horizontal milling attachment ; swivelling milling slide; a robust, plain milling slide; two 3-jaw chucks; a large, half-depth body independent 4-jaw chuck; fixed steady; collets; a large set of screwcutting changewheels; wood-turning hand T-rest; standard and wood-turning Morse centres; V-blocks; tailstock chucks; tailstock rotating centre; taps and dies and some bar stock and other small items.

The lathe has eight spindle speeds driven by a powerful 1-phase motor with Dewhurst reversing switch. The drive is through a bench-mounted all-V-belt drive countershaft system with screw-feed adjustment for belt tension setting. This is an interesting and well-engineered lathe that is set-up and ready to use. The lathe was restored by its previous owner and has a lovely paint job and engine-turned apron.

Everything works very well, the powered feeds in both directions, the very useful autofeed knock-off, the screwcutting gearbox, etc, - all are function perfectly. Also included are the custom-made cabinets that hold the tooling some would say this alone is probably worth more than I'm asking for the lathe Bad points: The drive motor has blown a capacitor which helps with the starting, so you have to give the spindle a little twist to get it going but is then fine at full speed.

It's not an original motor and will be easy to replace. The bed has some wear and dents near the headstock. The tailstock is stamped with the same serial number as the lathe, but is a little lower than the headstock by about 0. If nobody buys the lathe, then I will dismantle it and get the bed reground, as it's too sweet not to save - but I'd be willing to sell it cheap and let someone else undertake that, or live with the small issues like I've done ten years!

I love this lathe and it's a regretful sale, but I have upgraded to something larger and need the space. Lathe currently on a pallet, we can load with a tractor onto a trailer. Probably Edwardian period as the style of the only lettering on the down slide indicates see photo The table size is about 10 X 9 inches, tool down-feed 1. The main unit is cast iron, total weight about 35 kgs.

The shaper has been refurbished with a new feed-screw and bronze nuts, the main body milled down to remove corrosion and hand scraped to finish. Ram and down-feed slides reworked and all guideways lubricated with T33 slideway oil. The central lug of the base plate has been broken off and will be repaired with an inset laser profiled part. An upgrade is available which replaces the base plate by a box cube and an "angle-plate work surface" - much in the style of the Adept No.

The independently screw-adjusted jaws can be set to grip an irregular shaped workpiece and then have the repeatability of a scroll chuck by operation of any one pinion. The "Camlock" fitting consists 6-pins 1" dia. The photographs show the chuck in wax and, where cleaned off, the steel finish beneath.

There are surface storage marks as seen in the photographs. An ideal opportunity to add a well respected, high quality and versatile chuck to your lathe. The chuck has been boxed and mounted on a small pallet for ease of shipping with your courier.

I bought this lathe for restoration, but my plans have changed and it's now for sale. Highly desirable in good condition, the tiny and rare KD50 had a centre height of just 50 mm - making it the smallest of the Lorch precision bench lathes. Available in just one bed length of mm, with a between-centres capacity of mm, the spindle has a bore of 8 mm and carries collets with a maximum through-bore of 5 mm and a non-through of 7 mm.

Offered complete with two tailstocks, the correct Lorch countershaft and a good collection of collets not all Lorch the following faults are present: Motor and headstock pulleys have broken rims; the cross-slide handle is broken but a non-Lorch part is included; bearing oilers needed; countershaft is slightly bent; top-slide has at some time been repaired; tailstock drawbar knob needs replacing; the headstock drawbar needs some modification; the wiring needs sorting out but the motor is original and works fine - it's 3-phase and has been tested.

A previous owner has painted the lathe a dreadful shade of yellow using, it would appear, an old sock. So, this is an ideal Lockdown project; rebuilt and in fine condition these lathe command many thousands of pounds. Can be packed at shipped at the buyer's expense.

Pictures of the Lorch KD50 for sale here and details of Lorch KD50 lathes here For Sale: Router Jig For Making Round Boxes Pdf Lorch LLV high-precision lathe 65mm x mm with a single-phase motor, and complete with an 80mm 3-jaw chuck with both sets of jaws, a 4-jaw independent chuck, two tailstocks one a lever-action type the other screw-feed, faceplate, backplate and a spindle-nose protector. Jacobs drill chuck, the correct drawbar and Morse centres and a tailstock rotating centre.

There is an old repair to top slide handle see photo , but it does not affect use. This is a very high-quality lathe ideally suited to clock or model making. I am happy to pack for your courier to collect.. Mounted on the maker's cabinet stand with chip tray and the proper speed countershaft unit and a 1-phase motor. Very well equipped with all the previous owner's fittings, accessories and tools that include: collets and collet draw bar and the spindle-nose adapter, fixed steady, three 3-jaw chucks, 4-jaw chuck, 4-way toolpost, thread-dial indicator, three tailstock chucks, catchplate, a box of turning and boring tools, Morse centres and Morse adaptors, the maker's manual and a light unit.

There may be other items as well--and the lathe is ready to switch on and use. Pictures of the Boxford lathe for sale here and details of Boxford lathes here SOLD: Contents of a very well-stocked and neatly-fitted engineering and woodworking cupboard. This is the complete and undisturbed set of high-quality hand and inspection tools used by a gentleman who made 3. The contents include micrometers, toolmaker's vices, toolmakers clamps, tap and die sets in Whitworth, BSW and ME, etc.

I acquired this lathe 10 years ago when I was clearing out my dad's workshop. It was working and in regular use at that time. Since then it has been oiled, covered and stored unused. Although rather scruffy looking, everything moves freely. The motor is a single-phase GEC with a Dewhurst reversing switch.

Included with the ML7 is a set of Myford quick-set "boat" tooling, 3-jaw chuck with both sets of jaws, faceplate, tailstock chuck, Morse centres. The headstock bearing drip-feed oilers are new, genuine Myford replacements.

Mounted on the maker's industrial cabinet stand with levelling blocks, deep chip tray and a full-length splash back. Well equipped with a 4-inch 3-jaw chuck, a 5-inch 3-jaw chuck and the correct half-depth body 6-inch independent 4-jaw chuck. A genuine Myford indexing 4-way toolpost, fixed steady, travelling steady, tailstock chuck, faceplate, graduated handle to the leadscrew end, dial-thread indicator and Morse centres, etc..

This high-specification Super 7 has been in the hands of one family from new and used only for model engineering - it is, consequently, in superb condition. In addition, a standard motor mount and support bracket is included and the original transport pallet. The overall length is mm by mm wide and mm high. The dovetail bed is mm wide and measures mm from the base.

I originally purchased the unit with a view to conversion to CNC but. I can put the whole unit on the transit pallet ready for collection by a courier pallet truck required! If you collect, bring additional muscle as the unit weighs about kg. Very heavily built in cast iron the graduate is the ultimate high-quality wood lathe for the keen amateur and professional wood-turning shop. An ex-school lathe with only light use. Phone: Dover Pictures of the Graduate wood lathe for sale here and details of Harrison Graduate lathes here For Sale: Myford ML8 wood-turning lathe on the maker's stand with bowl-turning attachment, four standard faceplates and a large sanding faceplate.

School use only, so not heavily used but some work need to tidy up. Induction-hardened bed, faceplate, Lo-Vo light unit and chuck guard. Details in the picture below show all that is included. Phone: Dover Pictures of the Colchester Bantam for sale here and details of Colchester Bantam lathes here SOLD : Rivett precision backgeared and screwcutting toolroom lathe with power cross feed.

Virtually all these lathes came over from the United States during WW2 and were allocated exclusively to government research labourites and high-end precision machine shops dealing with important optical and instrument work. The lathe is mounted on a strong metal stand with a self-contained countershaft and drawer storage. With the lathe is a set of collets and two collet draw bars, four 3-jaw chucks, a 4-jaw chuck, faceplate, hand t-rest, a very large set of screwcutting changewheels, 4-way toolpost, the original eccentric-setting toolpost, Jacobs tailstock chuck, three spare chuck backplates, a magnetic base with DTI, scribing block and a collection of various centres, drive dogs, turning tools and a light unit.

We can manufacture these for almost any type of machine tool including grinders: typical examples would be the cross and top slide and tailstock screws and nuts. For milling machines we can make new table feed screws and nuts. All we need are your old components to replicate. Phone; or For Sale: a 15, r.

Also possibly available, various new table feed screws and other parts. Phone: For Sale: Three part-built model steam locomotives as shown in the pictures--together with one that appears to be complete. A range of casting are available - but we cannot be certain that all are there. The third loco is complete. For sale as one lot.

Can drill to extreme accuracy flat and round material with the facility to drill off-centre on round bars. Includes storage drawers with flat and conical tables, hardened bushes and a copy of the maker's instructions. Amounting to what is, in effect, a "jig-boring" system, this is an ideal machine for clock and high-precision engineering and makes what would be otherwise very awkward tasks simple to complete.

Includes a copy of the Operation Manual in English. Mounted on the maker's compact underdrive stand with a full-length splash-back and tooltray. This is an ex-school machine, little used and long-term stored and complete with a T-slotted cross slide, 3-jaw chuck, fixed steady, travelling steady, Dickson quick-set toolpost, catchplate, halogen light unit and a chuck guard.

The lathe needs some attention to the cross slide and screwcutting gearbox. In excellent working order, this top-of-the-range Tom Senior is the very rare ELT Model, a type that incorporated a number of improvements and refinements over earlier versions including a strong dovetail overarm in place of the round type, an extended table with greater travels under both hand and power feed, a larger and more rigid knee, a No.

The ELT also has internally-mounted, speed-reduction gearing that allows much deeper cuts when used in the horizontal mode. As well as the maker's standard-type No. The lathe has a hardened bed and fitted with an ingenious, very fine feed to the carriage through a Lorch-like planetary gearing. Driven by a 1-phase to 3-phase inverter that gives infinitely variable-speed drive the original speeds spanned to r. Speed control is by a dial with an emergency stop button.

The UK-market MN80 was supplied with a vast range of equipment, all shown in the pictures; these include a dividing attachment on its own base, a Swiss Mulitfix quick-set toolpost, milling slide, wire collets, cone collets, fir-tree collets, 3-jaw chuck, 4-jaw self-centring chucks, faceplate-cum-independent 4-jaw chuck, fixed and travelling steadies, faceplate with T-slots and tapped holes, catchplate, spare chuck backplate, two tailstock rotating centres, four tailstock chucks, tailstock-mounted No.

Made in Germany, fitted to full factory stand and enclosure and in showroom condition with barely a mark on it. Fitted with a factory-installed NCCAD professional control system with ball leadscrews on all axis - though the machine retains handwheels to enable traditional manual machining.

The machine was built in and the first owner used it for about an hour - so I am, effectively, the only owner from new. The machine has a 45 litre coolant sump and 3 way coolant outlet, the machine is capable of full 3D machining and this can be demonstrated upon request of serious buyers.

The milling head can be swung through 90 degrees in either direction to enable horizontal work and the quill can be stroked as per a drilling machine. Any demonstration and a half days training to the successful purchaser if required.

Will ship anywhere in the World at the customer's expense. Additional photo's upon request. Reason for sale is that I am upgrading to a bigger Wabeco machine. In running order but needs a cosmetic tidy. A wonderfully compact but versatile unit complete with the full set of table-drive pick-off gears, coolant and light unit.

Late "angular" style model, Morse taper spindle, 3-phase motor. SOLD : Large and heavy "low-line" shaper vice with 7-inch wide jaws and a 7-inch opening capacity. The head swings and tilts, a very useful machine. A very heavy-duty chuck with 1-inch wide jaws. Sold as seen without the bars.

Division plate No. Condition all very good apart from 44T which has 2 imperfect teeth - but appears serviceable. Selling as a set. Please contact Tenga Engineering on: or email: tenga. Little used and purchased by the single user as a top-of-the-range model and fitted with a full 3-axis, high-quality, Mitutoyo DRO and a 12 h.

The extra-long inch x inch table mm x mm has infinitely-variable power feed fitted to both longitudinal and traverse travels. The head can be nodded as well as pivoted, has power down and up feeds and both fine and quick-action feeds by hand. The R8 spindle nose take the vast range of inexpensive Bridgeport tooling.

The Buffalo has an unusually wide and effective speed range, in backgear from 60 to r. In addition, the miller is fitted with a centralised lubrication system, coolant and a halogen light unit. The vertical milling head has a No. This is a highly versatile machine with full details of what it can achieve can be seen here and on the Deckel pages here SOLD : Colchester Bantam lathe 5. In superb, carefully-used condition; still in its factory paint finish and mounted on the maker's stand with chip tray, a full-length splash back and storage drawer.

Complete with three jaw-chuck, the correct Burnerd 8-inch diameter, half-depth body independent 4-jaw chuck, a set of collets and the collet draw tube, Dickson quick-set toolpost, faceplate, two carriage stops, one a micrometer-equipped type the other with adjustable stops in a rotating housing, thread-dial indicator, tailstock rotating centre, tailstock chuck, micrometer dial on the tailstock spindle feed screw, chuck guard and the grease and oil guns and spanners.

This must be one of the very best Bantams to come on the market in recent years. Complete on the maker's cast-iron stand and fitted with compound slide-rest assembly. Motorised with a neat all-V-belt countershaft unit,.

On cast-iron legs with a built-countershaft converted to V-belt drive and a 1-phase motor with Dewhurst reversing switch. Parts include a 3-jaw Taylor conical-scroll 3-jaw chuck, tailstock chuck and T-slotted boring table.

This lathe will make an excellent cosmetic restoration project. I have owned this miller for 20 years and use it frequently; it's in good condition and full working order. Complete with a INT30 vertical head and a horizontal arbor complete with spacers and keys and support. The 30" x 8" table swivels, making the machine a true "Universal". The horizontal arbor has been rarely used by me and is in excellent condition.

The table power feed has never worked in my ownership - but the gearbox for it is in good condition and I suspect it may need a new motor or wiring. Backlash on the X-axis is 0.

The table has one mark, made before my ownership, from a 17 mm endmill which is 0. In operation, this simply does not affect accuracy or flexibility of use. The sale includes a Jacobs drill chuck mm; Mitsubishi "Octamill" multi-faced cutter with spare inserts; Clarkson Autolock chuck in with a full set of imperial and metric collets, eight in all and the original box, spanner and instruction book and a selection of bolts, nuts and clamping pieces.

Both horizontal and vertical spindles are INT30 tapers. The only reason for sale is that I am buying a Bridgeport as I need a larger capacity.

Complete with electrical switchgear, raiser block and a separate presumably single-phase push-button. Complete with 3-jaw chuck, the correct Burnerd half-depth body 6-inch independent 4-jaw chuck, swivelling vertical milling slide of the late 2-bolts-per-axis type, Myford machine vice, fixed steady, genuine Myford indexing 4-way toolpost, faceplate, catchplate, tailstock chuck, single-phase motor.

Partially dismantled but appears to be all there, apart from a headstock cover. There may be other Myford items as well. Has an unmarked, rack-and-pinion rise-and-fall tilting round table. In little-used condition and complete with a proper "Nippy" machine vice and drill chuck. A well-specified with a tilting vertical head with both a wheel-operated fine down-feed and a quick-action drilling lever.

Table x mm with a ground surface ground, hand-scraped ways and driven by Acme-form feed-screws supported in ball races where they pass through the table's end plates. Centralised lubrication system, swivel-base machine vice, a collet set and a halogen light unit. Powerful cap-start, cap-run motor and a quiet-running V-belt drive spindle. These millers are similar to the ones sold branded as Myford but the Warco have a higher specification.

In excellent original condition and mounted on a good metal floor stand with chip tray. Equipped with a wide range of accessories, tooling and other parts including: Dickson quick-set toolpost with 12 tool holders, an ER collet set with chuck, rear toolpost, digital calliper attachment on the tailstock, two tailstock sliding die holder, clamp and conventional knurling tools, five tailstock chucks, tailstock rotating centre, thread-dial indicator, three metal boxes of fractional, number and letter drills, two adjustable V-type angle plates, laser alignment tool, optical centre finder, three magnetic bases, ball-turning attachment, two dial-test indicators, toolmaker's scribing block, tap and Router Jig For Making Round Boxes Zip die sets, two small machine vices, lots of turning and boring tools, end mills, slot drills, slitting saws, a multi-face milling cutter and an electric soldering iron kit with transformer, etc.

Everything you need to get started in one carefully-used package including a good set of engineering and model engineering books including many from the "Workshop Series". Anything considered, any condition, any location. As this make of lathe is particularly easy to use, one is required to help handicapped and the blind and partially-sighted with wood turning.

English-manufactured, this lathe was based on the Atlas 10" and allows large jobs to be accommodated on a very compact footprint. Fitted with a built-on, all-V-belt drive countershaft giving 16 speeds from a recent 1-phase motor and push-button emergency stop.

Mounted on a metal stand and complete with two 3-jaw chuck, the correct half-depth body 6-inch 4-jaw chuck, faceplate, a set of screwcutting changewheels, tailstock chuck and a thread-dial indicator.

A keen student will consider anything in the London Area. Please phone: evening Monday to Friday and all day Sunday. For Sale: Britannia lathe 4. On cast-iron legs with a separate countershaft and a 1-phase motor. Parts include: 3-jaw chuck, faceplate, chuck backplate and screwcutting changewheels.

Complete and original and untouched for fifty years, the lathe will make an excellent cosmetic restoration project. Untouched for fifty years. Mounted on the maker's stand with the flywheel not currently fitted and complete with a number of unusual and rare accessories including: the complete maker's indexing and dividing attachment including the special T-slotted slide, a capstan head for the tailstock, 3-jaw chuck with both sets of jaws, wood-turning rest.

Two T-slotted tool slides, a set of screwcutting changewheels, a complete set of turning tools in their original mount contemporary to the lathe the maker's angle plate, standard toolpost and drive dogs.

Original factory paint and mechanically all original as well - save for the addition of extra idler pulley fitted to smooth out the drive belt. Retains the fitted-from-new 3-speed, 3-phase motor with brake and included with the lathe is a high-quality Transwave rotary 1-phase-to 3-phase converter with all you need to plug straight into a cooker supply socket. This is an unusually well-preserved lathe that has been in regular hobby use.

It's in perfect working order with all the controls and features operating smoothly; it runs very quietly and cuts beautifully. Fitted with a new 3-jaw chuck, a 4-jaw chuck, drill chuck, a steady that bolts to the cross-slide and some tooling, etc.

Included in the asking price is delivery to mainland UK addresses excluding Highlands and Islands Viewing and inspection welcome. Little used from new the last few years on plastic only and still in the maker's finish.

Complete with collets, a cut-off slide with position-adjustable, multi toolholders and a micrometer dial, light unit and in full working order and ready to put into productive use.

Anything considered in the Manchester and Liverpool area - or within about 50 miles of Warrington. K Model preferred with the shorter bed, but all considered. Must be in good, sound and useable condition and have enough basic accessories to be able to turn, mill and drill etc. All well looked after, fully-functioning examples considered there seem to be lots of cheap, knackered ones online at the moment.

I'm looking for something that my grandchildren will still be enjoying in 50 years' time. Going to a good home! Please phone: For Sale: Halifax lathe - a development of the American Atlas - 5" x 24" backgeared and screwcutting with 16 spindle speeds.

This example is in remarkably fine; completely original in full working order and appears to have had little use. Complete with a 5-inch 3-jaw chuck with both sets of jaws, a rotating tailstock centre, tailstock chuck, a set of screwcutting changewheels, thread-dial indicator, a set of drive dogs, a quantity of bar stock, turning tools and all the small parts from the last owner.

This lathes offers a lot of capacity on a very small footprint, has an enormous speed range and a spindle running in Timken taper-roller bearings. Please telephone anytime. Wanted: a die filing machine such as an Opus , Pius or Tool Fast - but anything of a similar type considered, perhaps a Linmatic , Thiel-Produro or similar. Please email Peter at: peteandtrang hotmail. Anything considered, any location.

Please called Francis on I'm seeking a small "universal" - vertical and horizontal - milling machine for bench-top use. I'd prefer something with a bit of age - but anything considered examples might be Centec , Sharp , Mikron , Astra , Ames , Schaublin , Aciera , etc Please email me at letterpressworks gmail.

I live in Kent, but am willing to travel anywhere in the UK for the right machine. Ed Wanted by a retired toolmaker who cannot be idle - a vertical milling machine of the "industrial class". Something like a Parkson No. Preferably with a power-down-feed quill and a table travel of between 24 and 40 inches. Please phone, in the first instance: Any location. Anything considered. Preferably with the drive gear, but anything considered, any location, even overseas.

Also sought, accessories and parts for any model of Aciera miller Please phone: WANTED: Vertical head for a Harrison Horizontal miller - or would consider a complete machine with a vertical head.

This make and model of miller can be seen here Please phone: or mobile Wanted: Capstan unit and cut-off slide to fit a Pultra lathe - anything considered - or would even consider a lathe complete with such equipment.

Also sought, a good Hardinge HLV-H lathe and tooling suitable for the Pultra capstan head such as Coventry die heads, tool holders, roller boxes, etc.

Wooden Dowel Diameters 00 Soft Close Drawer Slides 20 Inch Tab