They cut cleanly and smoothly and produce precise results. To maximize the compression advantage, center the bit height on the workpiece thickness, which might require a thicker template. We like the 11⁄2 "-diameter bits because they cut at a shallower angle than the 3⁄4 " bits, making them less “grabby” in reversing-grain shapes, such as circles. But if you can get only one bit, go for the 3⁄4 ×11⁄4 "—it’s the one we use most often.  , www.- This bit has multiple uses, a great attribute in a premium-priced bit. It works great for routing mating cope-and-stick profiles for door rails and stiles (use a slot-cutting bit [no. , $62] for the mating tenon and slot). But we use it most often to rout one-step edge profiles on small box lids and tabletops. Cut the end of the piece of 36" x 14" x 1/4" plywood into a circle the same size as the router's sub-base. Step 2. Drill Holes in the Circle.  Slowly swing the router through the work piece, using the wood block as a pivot point (image 2). Repeat the process as necessary, slowly lowering the bit with each pass. Next Up. How to Use Router Templates and Bearing Guides. Using a plugmaker router cutter. Plunge cutting with router bits. Router "HOW TO" Guides. How to use a guided router cutter.  The cutting edges on this bit do not extend fully across the base of the body, so they will only cut a sort of ‘ring’ because the base prevents the bit from plunging further into the material. Bits with a guide pin or bearing underneath the body will not be able to plunge-cut. Some bits have a guide pin or bearing positioned either above or below the body of the bit. These are often referred to as ‘pilot bits’. If the guide is located below the body, the bit will not be able to plunge-cut, because the guide is in the way, and is non-cutting. These bits are designed to shape the edge of materia. This leads to 'dwell', where the tooling rubs against the material to create a qorking amount of heat. Now, plunge the router so that router bit for cutting circles not working centering pin slips through the hole in the centering disk. The ability to work from a single pivot hole while letting me accurately adjust the arc of cutting enables me to create great concentric details. What if you don't want to drill a hole into the workpiece? Wear safety glasses because chatter, even ultrasonic that you cannot see or hear can fatigue the bit or mount causing it to shatter. Then, offset around 3mm from the radius of the circle that you need to make. On thicker material it helps to cut half way through on one side then flip the material and finish on the other side.

View Public Profile. Find all posts by audiotek. Received 1, Votes on 1, Posts. That link shows an adjustable circle hole cutter but does not appear to be used on metal. You can buy a 5" holesaw that will cut a perfect circle but will leave burrs that need to be removed.

The best way to make perfect clean holes is to use a punch. A punch can be very expensive. How many do you have to make? Find all posts by PJmax.

My worries is the blades flying off!!!! Tolyn Ironhand. Received Votes on Posts. Then cut it to final size using a router table with a straight cutting bit carbide and a compass jig.

The jig would need a nail, or some other small hole in the middle that you would spin the material on rotating it into the bit. Find all posts by Tolyn Ironhand. Pilot Dane. There are inexpensive fly cutters similar to your link that are intended for metal and they work pretty well on aluminun. If careful you can use a cordless drill that has a clutch but will leave a center hole. If you don't want a center hole clamping the material to a sturdy drill press or mill can make the cut without a center pilot hole.

You have to make doubly sure to keep your hands out of the way as a fly cutter can really bite you. You are correct that you will want to turn it slow as the cutter's speed will be relatively high because of the circle's diameter. An aluminum cutting fluid or other lubricant would also help.

Another option is to check with metal fab or machine shops. A few circles are pretty easy for any CNC machine. Punching is possible but fewer shops will have so large a punch. You can make a simple fixture to hold a router.

A piece of masonite or scrap metal with the center screwed to the center of your circle and the router at the appropriate distance to make the circle. I would firmly attach the material to a backer board. Make sure to secure both the outer portion of material and the circle so it does not spin or move and catch the router bit when you complete the cut.

Find all posts by Pilot Dane. What kind of store would sell fly cutters? I looked at the usual stores and they don't carry anything like that. Also I'm not sure what fly cutters are a search on google leads me to something similar to those adjustable hole cutters.

I found the following adjustable cutter on eBay. I'm wondering if the one in your link can handle aluminum even though metal isn't listed. Here is one available from Aircraft Spruce though it only lists going up to 4" diameter.

Search their site as they may have ones that go larger. This is similar to the one I have and it's still going strong after almost 20 years. I have mostly used it on Alclad up to. Because of the beveled shape of the cutter it takes a wider cut, removing more material the deeper you go which makes it harder and slower as you penetrate deeper. On thicker material it helps to cut half way through on one side then flip the material and finish on the other side.

You also want to turn the cutter so the beveled face is away from the part you want to keep as it will leave an angled cut. If you want a disk turn it opposite of what's shown in the photo.

Thanks Cool trick on reversing the material. I was thinking the same thing about reversing the blade so the outer cut of the circle is straight. Would only using 1 cutter by sliding the ruler part more on one side. It's hard to tell if that cutter will let you slide the bar out to one side. I assume it will though as I've never seen one that was welded together. You will have to be careful. Fly cutters are some of the most dangerous tools for causing severe boo-boos.

Don't wear any loose clothing, hair or anything that can drape down and get snagged into the cutter as it spins especially if using a drill press. The cutter that far from the center has a lot of leverage to grab and spin the material so have it clamped well. If using a hand drill use a cordless with a slip clutch set to a manageable torque so it will slip if the bit catches. I like to "chuck up" the cutter so there is a minimal amount protruding beyond the holder and rod to minimize tool chatter.

Wear safety glasses because chatter, even ultrasonic that you cannot see or hear can fatigue the bit or mount causing it to shatter. WD is better than nothing but it's not the best lubricant. It's not needed but will help extend the life of the cutter. Cool thanks for the tips I know that product Next time I go to a "good" store I'll buy some.

For aluminum I use bee wax but for that project I'll need something with a straw that I can shoot the lubricant as I'm cutting I'm gonna screw the aluminium to a sacrifice piece of ply then clamp it to the drill press table go slow with low pressure as I'm spraying while it's cutting. Now I need the freaking cutter P. A was closed today!!! I finally found one that does light metal up to 6" Mastercraft Circle Hole Cutter Canadian Tire I wonder what the white "rubber" thing above the cutter is?

That's just a plastic cap to protect the sharp cutter tip during shipping. You don't need a sprayer for lubricant. You can just put a small puddle on the material. Each time the cutter head passes by it will distribute it through the groove it's cutting. Or, you can use a disposable acid or paint brush to dab on the oil.

Towards the end the press would just get caught every half turn I don't want to increase the speed as I have to clue what could happen safety wise. Would it still work without the pilot drill in the middle? Are you certain you can't reverse the cutter. Just slide the big silver bit holder off the end and install it in the other orientation.

Either that or is there a set screw holding the cutter in the silver holder? Yet, if you want a real circle, you should use a router that comes with a spiral or straight bit. The circles created by the router require less edge cleanup. Additionally, when cutting smaller circles using a router, I have learned that I would need to use techniques that seemed to be the opposite techniques used to cut larger circles.

You may encounter several problems when cutting circles, and some of these problems may include burning and tear out.

Tear out usually happens when you reach the end grain. On the other hand, burning occurs when you pause to have a better grip on the circle. You can do better if you follow this excellent technique below on cutting circles with a router.

When cutting circles using a router, you need to make a trammel bar. Hence, if you are going to make tiny circles, you need to be more innovative. If you are going to cut small circles, you need to use a false base plate with a pivot pin.

This improvisation will get you the required radius of the small circle. It will help too if you cut a third slot to allow the cutter through. It will help if the pin has a convenient diameter like a 6mm diameter.

Then, offset around 3mm from the radius of the circle that you need to make. You can then set the radius accurately using a Vernier gauge.

However, it will help if you make a test cut before the actual cut to ensure that you will not make a mistake. I have often used a CRB7 when cutting circles because the CRB7 can cut arc and circles in various sizes; moreover, it comes with a pivot pin stored magnetically in the base bridge. Its screw and its threaded grass sleeve can be mounted onboard the bridge for wider circles and arcs.

I can also mount it just at the far side of the leather box opening for a much tighter radius. I can accomplish circles and arcs from an inch and half diameter to 18 inches with this router.

The ability to work from a single pivot hole while letting me accurately adjust the arc of cutting enables me to create great concentric details. This capability to cut different sizes of arcs and circles brings a new dimension to my woodworking capability. It would also enhance your woodworking skills likewise. Aside from the above-mentioned best technique, you can also try other methods to cut small circles. Here are some of these additional methods:.

If you are cutting the same size small circles, it will help if you have a female template like an oversized hole for compensating with the guide bushing. Afterward, you can cut using a plunge router. Then, use these layout lines to locate the template. It will help if you affix the waste circle onto the backer to make it stationary when doing the cut and to avoid the template from jamming the router bit. You can use a router to cut smaller circles for inlays.

Like the technique mentioned above, you need to make a template with the diameter of the inlay size and the router bit.

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