In fact I probably use my jointer just as much as I use a smoother. While the tung oil is given time to penetrate any tiny little pitting I would joint the shoe restoring a wooden jointer plane it needs it then scrub the woodwork with steel wool and tung oil. Save the Iron By warehouse32 Escamilla Woodworking Follow. The time now is PM.

I would take it apart, clean up the metal work on a wire wheel, then saturate the metal with tung oil. While the tung oil is given time to penetrate any tiny little pitting I would joint the shoe if it needs it then scrub the woodwork with steel wool and tung oil. The handles appear to have been painted. I would scrape and sand any of that paint off and use the oil there as well.

Once the wood is cleaned up wipe everything clean and let the whole thing dry out for a few days. If the wood soaks up the oil, which it may very well do, especially on the end grain areas, keep applying more until it won't absorb any more. It's going to be beautiful. Call me a grinch. They really don't work very well, and aren't the least bit valuable.

Cleaned up and polished they look nice on bookshelves or mantle pieces The sole will be the part effecting how well it works so first of all look critically at that. If and when you condition it be aware that wood you remove there will increase the size of the mouth opening and when it gets overly wide the plane wont work well at all.

It can always be brought back in order with an insert laid in at the front of the opening. Originally Posted by Bob Cleek. We don't know how lucky we are Thanks for the ideas, suggestions and instructions. I'll take a closer look at the plane and figure out what I want to do with it.

Beware of Tung and Boiled Linseed oil unless you want a soft coating on the wood. These planes are better off with a coat of paste wax rather than oil. The bare metal components can be protected with Camelia oil which has been used on Samurai swords for the last two thousand years to prevent rust.

I do have a working collection of old planes that I treat in this manner. One note is that if the throat is too big you will have problems creating fine chips. In that case, the throat will need to be adjusted by making an insert to close Wooden Jointer Plane Dimensions Kit the gap a bit. This can be tricky work and if you are not comfortable with making a major adjustment, I can walk you through it. There are two kinds of boaters: those who have run aground, and those who lie about it.

Moderate cleanup, sharpen and use. If it is crap give it up otherwise you have a plane. Mine work, I use them. Personally I think they are interesting but ill-conceived novelties and for all practical purposes would choose either one or the other, metal or wood, but ok, that's me.

Here is a sole with an insert, the blade is backed up so the opening is wider in the picture than it would be when properly set for use. OK, these planes may well be better off with a coating of wax on there but the characterization is surely backwards.

The oil will penetrate into the wood and the extent to which it coats the wood depends on the number of applications. More will certainly at some point build up on the surface but less will leave no cohesive barrier between your feel and the wood surface. At the same time wax creates a surface covering more readily and a definite barrier, so to the feel there will be less contact with the wood.

I do Jointer Plane Wooden 3d agree that neither linseed oil nor tung oil are the right thing to use for protecting metal. Linseed oil is the best wood finish but takes long to get dry feeling - we won't go into boiled linseed oil as a wood finish in and of itself. Tung oil, given to us from the East, has the advantage that it is faster drying and gives better protection against moisture. I jointed the bottom of the wooden smoother plane I inherited from my father.

One light pass to true up the sole, didn't widen the throat too much. Works fine. So in terms of leveling the sole, because it is wood and it moves, I will use a length of good quality linen backed sandpaper, 80 grit, from a roll and clamp it to the top of the table saw and methodically rub the plane, with the blade in position but backed off only as much as need, back and forth, always watching the scratch pattern developing until it is uniform over the whole surface.

Typically, the last part to be sanded will be right in front of the mouth opening. Originally Posted by Ernest DuBois. Actually it's a cocobolo plane. CoR plane, What is it? Its just a difficult thing to wrap my mind around the notion of a transition that was so drawn out, if we see that even the romans had metal planes and today in Germany in particular wooden bodied planes are nothing exceptional.

Transition seems a little over simplified. James Krenov's school of woodworking where the plane in your picture looks like it came from.

There looks like there's another two in the background of the picture as well. The sole of the plane in your picture looks like it's made of "Ironbark", with the mouth infill made from Wenge. Don Wagstaff is the photobucket account the picture comes from Some of those "transitional" planes came with tapered and laminated heavy pattern irons with a chipbreaker, they work very well in a Bedrock Stanley or Bailey iron plane.

Save the Iron This was to turn the iron to a diagonal position rather at 90 degrees, and focus on making nice long strokes instead of many short ones with a stronger down force on the push than on the pull.

I gave things another go and saw some improvement in the corner but the pitting looked like it might defeat me. Richard came to the rescue with the grinder to speed things along, he held the iron flat against the side of the stone and in just a couple of minutes the pitting was removed. I was advised not to spend too much time on each grit — once I could see even scratches across the surface I was ready to move to the next.

By the grit I could feel a noticeable difference, it was smoother to push and the scratches became less visible, the surface looked dull and even. After a slapped wrist for shoddy technique I was able to improve on things, and with a lot of concentration I was able to reach grit with the iron almost straight at the corners and lovely and polished.

I needed to turn my attention to the sole of the plane, which was a similar but much faster process. I started and finished with grit sandpaper which I was told was ample since the sole of this little smoothing plane will become burnished through use.

This small, wooden body took less than 3 minutes, I simply pulled it back carefully along the sandpaper until the darker, low spots were gone. With everything prepared I was ready to get some further guidance in creating the bevel and sharpening the cutting edge…. Concepts which have led to the recent launch of her second business Winglewood News.

Now I know I truly need one. Thanks Helen. Great post, Helen, and very useful for those of us who have to refurbish old tools from time to time. Did flattening the sole open the mouth of your smoothing plane too much?

If so, perhaps you could explain what steps you took to address that? With regards a slightly open mouth on a smoother, all I can say at the moment is that this one is working very well… perhaps I might understand why later on, but I suspect a lot of it has to do with choosing a good candidate to start with. Yep, I have the same thing happen when I use paper on granite or glass without adhesive: Turned corners. Just the lightest mist of spray adhesive on the back of the paper will do, but even then I find I have to be careful with paper or the corners round over.

It may help you from getting lines at the edges of the blade on wider work, sort of like cambering the blade. On a chisel, it would upset me.

I have one of these I already did that restoration work to, so you have my sympathy. However, on mine the blade keeps coming loose in use, no matter how hard I drive in the wedge. Is the blade tapered along its length with the thin edge being opposite the cutting edge? Most wooden plane blades were traditionally wedge shaped themselves. I did have a slight issue with this to begin with and it was resolved by a little bit of work to the wedge.

Nothing like refreshing a year old iron and plane body for regular use in my shop…. This is true wit belt sanders also. Thanks Paul, I can certainly see the benefit of have something solid to flatten on without the need for the curling paper, I would likely have had less of a struggle.

Regarding; mouth clearance it appears that this was done previously by adding thicker iron, I have used this method and or veneer glued in the bed. If it is to big you can make a scrub plane. Well done on firstly getting the pitting out of the blade as an iron will not sharpen with pitting in the way. Secondly the iron needs a slight camber for a smoother size plane no matter if it is wooden or iron, not as much as a jack plane but some to eliminate plane tracks in your work.

On the plane body itself, try and get it as smooth and even as possible on the bottom. Remember there is not as much plane body riding over the surface compared to a jack or trying plane so you want to use the whole plane sole to ensure that everything is true on your work piece.

My 5c has run out so I will sign off now. Go the woodies!!!! Well Helen, it just goes to show you what a small world we all live in.

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