Applying a Tung Oil Finish - Heritage School of Woodworking BlogHeritage School of Woodworking Blog

Woodworking Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for professional and pure tung oil finish woodworkers. It only takes a minute to sign up. Connect and share knowledge within a single location that is structured and easy to search. The second pure tung oil finish third coats I also wet-sanded the oil in using Steel Wool and then wiped the sludge away thoroughly.

Between each coat, I wiped all excess oil off and waited for at least 4 days pure tung oil finish between each. It took much longer to dry than I've ever experienced. But I know each coat was DRY not of course CURED -- because between each, I sanded lightly with either sandpaper or the Steel Wool, and the dust was a fine white powder - no gummy residue, indicating it was dry enough to add another coat.

I live in FL, but I have the table inside where it is normally air-conditioned to 76 degrees, so pure tung oil finish humidity is NOT high. To aid in the drying I turned the AC down to 72 so the air would be even drier. After each coat, I noticed that the okl was continually seeping out of the pores, so I was wiping it off about every minutes for the first hours, and then several times a day for the next days.

Again, I've never experienced this before, and I'm sure it has to do with the large pores of the Acacia. On the third application, I kept wiping and buffing as usual, and all was fine until the third morning when I checked it, oil had seeped out overnight and DRIED, so now there are dozens of tiny spots that are glossier than the rest of the table.

They're not white -- just glossier than the rest of the table -- and you can only see pure tung oil finish if you look at the table close to eye level in certain light, but the table is not as smooth where the dried oil is. In an attempt to fix, I tried sanding with Steel Wool and then wiping down with pure Citrus Solvent - and puure it was like a dam broke, and oil was seeping out of the funish all over!

I was able to wipe that away, but the previously dried spots are still there - the steel wool and Citrus Solvent didn't touch them. Also, pure tung oil finish Citrus Solvent seemed to dry out the rest of the table and make it duller.

On a small section of the pure tung oil finish, I tried using a 3M white Final Finishing Pad which is like a Scotchbrite "scrubby" and a bit of Tung to see if that would break up the dried spots, but that did nothing. However, I don't want to do that until I know the best way to proceed. Should I wait tujg several weeks to make sure the oil IN the pores is fully cured, and then sand and do a coat of pure Tung Oil, wet-sanding in various steps from medium to fine, to try to get rid of the spots?

Or, if I wait for it to thoroughly dry, and sand, and then pure tung oil finish apply the pure Tung, will the Tung eventually build up so the rest of the table is as glossy as the spots, so it won't be noticed? Or, if I wait for tubg weeks and apply Polymerized Tung -- which has a glossier finish - will that bring the rest of the table to the level of gloss of the pores, making it uniform?

I've never used Polymerized Tung before. I came across this question while researching tung oil characteristics. The question was posted a year ago, so the original need is no longer relevant, but for others with similar questions it may be of use if I purr what I learned. Tung oil does not "dry" by evaporation like water pure tung oil finish organic solvents. It cures by polymerization. The curing process is facilitated by oxygen.

Tung oil on the wood surface therefore polymerizes relatively quickly compared to tung oil that has penetrated into the wood, where it is Minwax Tung Oil Finish Ingredients Twitter in a relatively oxygen-poor environment. Another useful fact is that tung oil polymerization can be catalyzed using a "drying agent", which is typically a metal-salt ttung a form that allows it to form an emulsion when mixed into a non-polar substance ie.

A tung oil combined with such a catalyst will cure faster and the cure will be less dependent on exposure to oxygen in the air. An example of a drying agent is manganese-acetyl-acetonate. Cobalt-compounds are also commonly used. Other metal compounds can be used, but they tend to be more toxic or have strong coloration. So, based on pure tung oil finish we know about the problem described, it appears that slow curing of oil that had penetrated deep into the wood allowed it to seep back out over time.

The structure of the specific wood used may have played a role in allowing deep penetration of the oil. The seeped oil that reached the surface was exposed to relatively high levels of oxygen, and cured to hard polymer that was resistant to solvents.

Solutions could include: 1. Thinner coats with ample "drying" time between coats. Adding a "drying" agent to the tung oil. Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Stack Overflow for Teams — Collaborate and share knowledge with a private group.

Create a tnug Team What is Teams? Learn more. Asked 3 years, 8 finixh ago. Active 2 years, 8 months ago. Viewed 2k times. Still, pure tung oil finish first 2 coats went on fine and were completely dry before applying the pure tung oil finish coat. I really do not want to sand everything off and start over. Any advice would be appreciated!

Many thanks. Improve this question. LSommer LSommer 1 4 4 bronze badges. Thanks Deon and Aaron! Thank you Aaron! I believe my mistake was exactly what you describe: applying too much too fast. I think the humidity of Florida may have played tugn part too as I've only ever used Tung Oil in NY where it's much drier. I ended up sanding pure tung oil finish table and wiping with Citrus Solvent repeatedly until nothing came out of the pores, and then reapplying the Tung Oil in thinner applications greater ratio of Citrus Solvent with more drying time between applications.

It came out beautifully in the end. Thank you again! Add a comment. Active Oldest Votes. Improve this answer. Deon Deon 21 3 3 bronze badges. Sign up or log in Sign up using Google. Sign up using Facebook. Sign up using Email and Password. Post as a guest Name. Email Required, but never shown. Featured on Meta. Stack Pure tung oil finish for Finisy is now free for up to 50 users, Hopes 100 Pure Tung Oil forever.

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PROPERTIES AND CHARACTERISTICS: A Pure Tung Oil all natural finish is water and alkali resistant offering a protective barrier. A Pure Tung Oil finish will Minwax Tung Oil Finish Ingredients Name not darken with age as other finishes will. It resists marring, penetrates well, remains elastic and unlikely to www.- : $ Tung oil is an exotic, naturally drying oil imported from South America and China and is recognized by craftsmen to be the \"ultimate\" drying oil for all fine woods. Unlike other finishes that sit on the woods surface, tung oil penetrates deep into wood fibers, cures, and actually becomes part of the wood/5(K). May 03,  · Penetrating tung oil finishes come in three varieties: pure tung oil, oil/varnish blends, and wiping varnish. They all share the benefits that tung oil imparts to a finish—durability, water resistance, resilient hardness, and color stability—depending on how much of the oil they actually contain and what form it takes. Pure tung oil. Pure tung oil is easy to identify because it contains no solvents.

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