Описание товара. "From the Manufacturer Watco Quart Cherry Danish Oil Finish. Creates rich, warm glow of a hand-rubbed finish. Oil-based formula penetrates deeply into wood pores. Protects against spills, abrasion and chipping." Показать всеОписание товара. О товаре. Доставка, возврат и платежи. Наиболее популярные в Другие краски морилки и лаки. Цветное масло для деревянного пола DuraSeal Penetrating Finish от американской компании Sherwin Williams. Придает древесине глубокий и богатый цвет, выделяет и подчеркивает естественную текстуру дерева, придает отличную прочность и эластичность поверхности, препятствует старению и растрескиванию дерева. Применяется внутри помещений как самостоятельное финишное покрытие или в качестве подложки для других финишных покрытий. Также подходит для длительной защиты кирпичных или каменных поверхностей. Несомненным плюсом масла для пола Шервин Вильямс DuraSeal Penetrating Finish – это экономичный расхо. А полиалкиленгликолевое масло KROON Oil Poly Tech вообще расходится на ура. Короче, используйте смело — конечно, если группа качества выбранного масла согласуется с требованиями инструкции по эксплуатации автомобиля. Впрочем, свое мнение не навязываем. Выбирайте сами. И — счастливого пути! Ravenol hcs 5W API sl/sm/CF. Цена, руб. After the edges are poly oil finish quotes, sand the centers with long strokes that overlap the sanded border. By American Woodworker Editors. Some examples of drying oils include tung oil, linseed oil, and poly oil finish quotes oil. This will leave a visible ghost line where the top layer was sanded through. Unlike poly finished floors, oiled floors are very easy to repair if damage is done. Avoid continuous breathing of vapor and spray mist. Controlling exposure to lead or other hazardous substances requires the use of proper protective equipment such as a properly fitted respirator NIOSH approved and proper containment and cleanup.

With oil-based polyurethane, you would have to make arrangements for your family to stay at a hotel or with friends for a few days.

If you start the project early enough in the morning, you can apply the water-based finish and sleep in the house that night. Emits fewer odors: One of the drawbacks of oil-based polyurethane is the overwhelming odor that it produces. This application provides better indoor air quality and eases the process of finishing the floors yourself. However, it would be best to hire a professional to apply the finish to your home since the quick drying time could result in bubbling or overlapping without the proper care.

Is eco-friendly: Water-based polyurethane is better for the environment because it releases fewer volatile organic compounds VOCs. A water-based hardwood floor sealer provides a better air quality for the people in your household who may have asthma or other respiratory symptoms.

Enhances the natural beauty: Water-based polyurethane produces a smooth and shiny finish for your hardwood floors.

Lasts a long time: High-quality water-based polyurethane can be as durable as an oil-based finish. It resists moisture reasonably well, and it makes the floors easier to maintain.

Make sure you invest in high-quality water-based polyurethane so that the finish can last up to a decade. Even though there are many differences between oil-based and water-based wood finishes, here are their similarities: Contain polyurethane: The active ingredient in both wood finishes is polyurethane, which is effective at coating hardwood surfaces to protect them from scratches and damage due to heat and moisture.

This substance increases the quality, appearance and durability of your wood flooring. Allow you to choose a color: Water-based and oil-based floor finishes each offer several wood finishes for your hardwood floors. If you like the natural color, you can select a transparent finish, but you can also make it darker or lighter based on your design preference.

If this happens, you need to reapply the last layer of polyurethane and start over. Use these sample pieces to make sure the finish is properly cured and ready to rub out. Then experiment on them to get a feel for rubbing out. Let the finish fully cure! This is most important for a successful rubout. A finish that has not cured will not be hard enough to take an even scratch pattern from abrasives. The result will be an uneven sheen.

Polyurethane should cure for two weeks to a month after the last coat is applied. It seems completely counterintuitive, but to make a finish really shine, you have to start by sanding it dull Photo 2.

Sanding removes dust nibs and brush marks and leaves the finish smooth and flat. Caution: Finish tends to be thinner at tabletop edges. Use special care in these areas to avoid sanding through Photo 3. Apply consistent, light pressure as you sand. Unless you have lots of bubbles to flatten, you should only need to sand five to 10 strokes in any given area with the grit sandpaper.

Vacuum all the sanding dust off the surface and wipe with a damp cloth. Tackcloths can be used on oil-based poly but not on water-based. Begin rubbing-out with medium-grade, 00 steel wool equivalent synthetic abrasive pads Photo 4.

This is where the finish begins to come to life, taking on an attractive, flat sheen with no visible defects. Clean the top with a damp cloth and continue buffing with fine synthetic abrasive wool steel wool equivalent Photo 5. Rub until the whole piece has an even, satiny sheen, and then rub a little more. To bring up the sheen even more, use soapy water or paraffin oil as a lubricant for the abrasive wool Photo 6.

Rub thoroughly; then wipe dry. After sprinkling the pumice on the surface, rub it into a paste with water and a dampened rag Photo 7. Wipe the slurry away, and then repeat the process with rottenstone. Keep firm pressure on the rag, and sprinkle more of the powder or water as needed. Continue rubbing in any direction until your arms hurt and the finish looks satisfactory.

Now your furniture has the goodlooking finish it deserves. Home centers and hardware stores , 3M packs of two finishing pads, 00 steel wool equivalent; Sandblaster grit stearated aluminum oxide paper. The Problem: A few dust nibs, broken brush bristles and bubbles are almost inevitable on big horizontal surfaces finished with slow-drying polyurethane.

The Solution: Flatten the surface imperfections with grit sandpaper on a sanding block or grit followed by if the surface is really a mess. Extra care should be taken when sanding near the edges of a tabletop to avoid sanding through. Sand the 2 to 3 in. Short strokes make it easier to control the block. After the edges are done, sand the centers with long strokes that overlap the sanded border.

Then rub it on with the grain. If you see uneven levels of shine, or spots that look like you missed, just move on.

This Wipe-On poly final coat works great on top of the flattened, sanded surface from the previous step. You can skip it altogether and manually control the final look instead. For that, continue reading.

So I just used the word satin as a verb… but I think you know what I mean. With a satin look, it will reflect light, but in kind of a hazy way, not reflective like a mirror.

Take some steel wool found at any home or hardware store. NOTE: Not all steel wool is made the same. There are online woodworking and finishing websites that sell high quality steel wool, better suited for fine woodworking.

Now rub out the finish. You can do this in a circular motion, but make a few final passes with the grain to reduce visible scratches if there are any.

Do this over the entire surface until it looks even and reflects light with a bit of a haze. Use paper towels to remove the soapy water. Rubbing out with steel wool leaves microscopic scratches. This breaks up the light reflecting off the surface. Like I said, the smoother, the glossier.

To do this, you can rub out the finish with an abrasive pad. Get the finest you can find. If you can find both, get both.

Hickory Hardware Dresser Pulls Effect Grinding Wheels For Bench Grinders Models Diy Woodworking Table Top 10