The cookie is set by GDPR cookie consent to record the user consent for the cookies in the category "Functional". The result plane or jointer first zoom range plane or jointer first zoom virtually no effect to dramatic, depending on wood species, sharpness of knives, depth of cut and feed furst. With your left hand on the top edge near the front of the board, maintain pressure both downward and toward the fence. Wood jointer or planer — Which one should you get first if you could only afford one at a time? Plaen, consider grain direction when feeding stock into the planer. Remember me. So after your last pass, mark the newly machined surface.

However, if your board is naturally bowed, running it through a planer will reduce the thickness but will do nothing to fix the bow. The only way to ensure flawless parallelism is by running one side of the board over a jointer first, especially if the board is naturally curved or twisted. Once way professional woodworkers cut costs in their projects is by reclaiming old lumber or milling their own. This means chopping down trees or purchasing bulk rough lumber from lumber yards and processing them in their workshop.

Compared to getting beautifully prepared boards at a retailer, you can save a considerable amount of money while increasing your profit margins. You might be asking about whether you should get a jointer or a planer first for your garage workshop.

It ultimately depends on your needs. A planer will help adjust the thickness of the board to suit your project. Another scenario would be milling your own lumber. The best results from using a jointer come from passing the board multiple times over the blade; two or three times should do. Next, the operator needs to see whether the board is flat and free of shape defects.

You might be wondering what to do with the other side of the board and the other edges. Well, this is where a planer comes in. Skipping this stop can lead to both quality and safety problems. After you face joint you should determine which edge to joint unless both will be jointed.

If only jointing one, I generally choose to place the concave edge down on the jointer bed as this forces a constant reference surface that is defined by the two end points.

This is a safety concern as well as a quality problem. When you have severe crook to contend with as shown in the picture follow the next steps prior to continuing at the jointer. If a board has too much crook to it to allow for safe jointing, use a straight edge to draw a straight line that removes the minimize amount of stock necessary to establish a straight edge.

Then cut to the line as closely as possible using a band saw, creating an edge that will be safe to run through the jointer. Then return to the jointer to perfect the edge. When jointing multiple boards to form a panel, a small deviation from square can have a compounding effect and cause real problems with your glue-up.

To prevent this, arrange the boards for your panel based upon best appearance, and then mark the tops of every other board indicating the face that will ride against the fence. Then flip the non-marked boards and mark the other side. When you take the stock to the jointer remember to always place the marked face against the fence and you will produce complementary angles at glue-up time.

Start by placing your board against the fence with the desired edge on the table. This is a good time to double check that the board sits flat against the fence and does not appear to be twisted. With your left hand on the top edge near the front of the board, maintain pressure both downward and toward the fence.

The goal is not to flex the board flat, but rather to simply control it as it passes the cutterhead. Pushing down too aggressively will distort the board, resulting in a concave edge when you have completed the pass.

As your left hand passes over the cutterhead, lock it into position a few inches past the cutterhead. You have now changed from using the infeed table to the outfeed table as your reference surface.

This transition should be smooth, and this is where many jointing procedure Plane Or Jointer First 90 problems occur. After making this transition the left hand should remain in the same position for the duration of the cut, maintaining both downward pressure as well as holding the board firmly against the fence. At this time your right hand should continue with steady feed pressure as well as pressure toward the fence.

Maintain a steady feed rate. Feeding stock too quickly can also result in a rippled surface finish. If you are more comfortable feeding the stock using a push block, feel free to do so, especially for narrower stock. Following these simple procedures will enable you to consistently produce perfect edges on your boards, eliminating frustration and quality problems in your projects.

Click here to cancel reply. You may have helped to solve my problem…I continuously produce crowned boards when planing…. I will make a point to maintain downward pressure on the outfeed table once my left hand passes by the cutterhead. This sounds like an excellent practice for the jointer. Lately I have using the jointer as a paperweight since my results were so poor. Thanks alotly.

There is not a direct corresponding video this article; sorry. I do not use my jointer because I have too many problems with end cut gouging, I think you may have helped me see the problem. Has anyone ever run the cut end Jointer Plane Build Zoom cross grain through the jointer? I would assume this is Ulmia Jointer Plane Zip not recommended. This was very helpful for me with the tips on reading the grain and compensating for out of square fence.

I will be using my jointer more, thank you. I believe my jointer is set up accurately but no matter how I feed, material is removed from the leading edge and little to none is removed from the trailing edge, resulting in a tapered board. Sorry fpr the late response but i had the same issue and i solved ot by lowering the outfeed table slightly like 1-m at most. Same here. Always takes a lot of wood out in the beginning, then fades to nothing.

I cannot lower the outfeed table. WHY are you always endorsing a band saw? A table saw with a fence would work much better in most situations IMO. The reason for the band saw is most likely due to the board not having any straight edge yet and it is much easier to just take a pass on a bandsaw and cut off the worst part and then move to the jointer to straighten the edge than it is to put a wobbly board through the table saw, not to mention a bit safer with the bandsaw as having a bowed edge could result in a catch and massive kickback on the table saw which could be injury or even loss of life depending on the Plane Or Jointer First Keys situation.

One thing you must note is that, a thickness planer makes both sides of a board parallel to each other. That is why when you feed a warped or twisted board through it, the thickness of the board will be reduced, but it will also come out warped or twisted, because the thickness planer makes both sides including curves in the wood parallel to each other.

So, if you have a warped board or twisted board, you need to pass it through a jointer first to get one side of the board flat first, before you feed the board through the planer to get both sides flat and reduce the thickness at the same time. Related: 5 Best Biscuit Joiner Reviews. Just avoid buying warped or twisted lumber and you will not have much use for a jointer.

That is why you should go for the planer first. Also, even if you have flat faces of wood but the edges of the board are not flat or square, you can always use a circular saw with a guide, a table saw or a hand planer to get the edges square. If you have an opinion about this, you can always tell us about it.

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