Antiquing was popular then, so I could use soft woods because the antiquing meant they got a coat of paint and the grain pattern did not matter. I took off so little material that this happened in one pass as well. Question: How did you get the wording on your images? I have bought one of these moulding cutter when I purchased my Radial Arm saw in the early 70's still using it. Even a router moulding bits for table saw usa do some serious damage ffor it decides to dig into the grain.

And while you're at it move that saw all around the shop like this. I also inherited a set of these over 30 years ago. I may have tried to use once or twice, but, frankly, they scared the heck out of me. Since then, I got a router table. Even there, I've have molding fly out now and then. Recently, while using my old Sears table saw without the guard and riving knife, a piece of wood flew back and hit me really hard in the stomach.

Luckily, no skin penetration. Clearly, for some operations, you can't have the guard on. It was too difficult to remove and re-install on the Sears so I ran without it for many years. I'm considering "body-armor" as well: So, to anyone thinking about using this molding set, please be careful.

You maybe should also look at MicroJig's Gripper tool which helps keep your hands away as well as applying downward force and forcing the piece against the fence.

I've used this very cutter on my radial arm saw which I don't have anymore. With the radial arm saw you need to be very careful that your work piece doesn't lift or raise in any way.

It ruins the piece. That's why I prefer using a table saw. If the piece raises, no harm. Thank you for posting this. I practically live in my garage and was gifted one of these sets - brand new but i was always a tiny bit intimiated by the 1" blade. You made it manageable, so. I think I'm as old as those cutters. Question: How did you get the wording on your images? Reply 1 year ago. GIMP is my "go to" for this kind of stuff.

Yes safety first. I saw somewhere that a spindle molder was the most feared workshop machine. Even a router can do some serious damage if it decides to dig into the grain. I think my dad had a DIY spindle molder. Didn't use it much because it scared him. They just need good support to keep the wood in place and stop kickback.

I think the early machines had a reputation for sending out cutters like schrapnel. The more modern heads with decent fixings have largely eliminated that, but I don't like any form of hand feeding and that includes electric drills. A collegue of Moulding Bits For Table Saw Wikipedia mine had a hole cutter in a hand held V AC drill when the hole saw snatched and dug in.

The drill carried on turning while the mains cable wrapped itself around his arm. The only thing that stopped it was when the cable snapped. That was over years ago and still haunts me.

I coveted a cutter head and a few basic cutters back in the early s. I got a radial arm saw in and used these to make Roman Ogee molding for tops on our first bedroom furniture pieces. Antiquing was popular then, so I could use soft woods because the antiquing meant they got a coat of paint and the grain pattern did not matter. Before the radial arm saw I had a solid blade mount arbor for a wood lathe I had bought a dozen years before while in junior high.

I made a plywood table to fit on the lathe so I could use the cutters to make molding. These cutters naturally were not carbide tipped, but ground. The peripheral speed was pretty good, but they still did not cut quite as well as a router. A router seemed like a luxury item not affordable. I had to be very careful to feed work slowly at an even speed or there could be a scallop from uneven cutting.

Chatter was also something to be avoided, if at all possible. Chatter was more of a problem on a radial arm saw than I think it would be on a table saw. That is because the cutter is likely above on the radial arm saw and the work can jump up into the cutters if not held down very well. Any warp or twist in the wood meant an uneven cut was likely.

Although you could buy a guard, great care was needed to be certain fingers did not get into the path of the virtually invisible spinning blades. And, guards sometimes got in the way more than they protected. Whenever you bought a sawblade at Sears you got a small booklet with a complete list and drawings to show the profile of all cutters offered by Craftsman. Several examples of cut profiles were made with a combination of cuts from two or more cutters set very orecisely.

The booklet was partly educational and partly a sales brochure to make you want to buy more cutters. It always seemed to me that those complex cuts could require some hand sanding to smooth faint lines where the cutters did not align exactly as intended. I'm showing my age but I purchased a Sears router before it was a Craftsman product and 3 inch belt sander in the late 50's. I still have Moulding Bits For Table Saw Us and use them today. I have that old booklet.

It made me curious to try tracking down one of the dado blades that work on circular saws. That could be very handy. Good instructable! I found a good router table is a better way to go most of the time even though I'm still a tablesaw fan for most operations. It's a scary experience.

They are variable speed, but much higher than the tablesaw, so less likely to shatter pieces. I have bought one of these moulding cutter when I purchased my Radial Arm saw in the early 70's still using it. I was always terrified to use the molding attachment.

I wore out the RAS. I bought on back in the day with my radial arm saw. You are correct,using it can lead to some very exciting moments. Thanks for reviving some memories.

I own a Craftsman tablesaw that I bought new in Just yesterday I finished upgrading it with a Delta T3 fence, something I should have done years ago to replace the piece of crap OEM one. When I bought the saw I also bought the moulding head described in the article.

Try ours today! This site uses cookies to collect data. By continuing to browse, you accept our Privacy Policy. We're Moving! Orders will now ship the week of March Please contact us via e-mail for support as phones may be unavailable. Thank you for your patience. Each shaper cutter features: Precision ground steel bodies Special coating to prevent rust and resin buildup Three wing anti-kickback design Just like a router and its bits, a shaper is only as versatile its shaper cutters.

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