Let's put the above make a frame smaller 80 as follows, here we replaced rows attribute by cols and changed their width. This is totally optional. Everything looks good, so onto assembly! Not all things need to be disposed off when they have been used up ones. Very clever and awesome tutorial, Amy! Some of these frames might be quite expensive and so getting rid of them is not an option.

To start off I measured the length and height of the print that I wanted framed. This is where I want the 45 deg angle to be cut for the new frame corner.

I cut the frame at 45 deg. Dryfit your newly sized frame with the picture, trim or adjust as needed. Everything looks good, so onto assembly! Measure the thickness of the frame and drill pocket holes accordingly. Use wood glue and clamp the frame together. Definitely not required, but it is nice to have around. Add the pocket hole screws to secure the frame together.

Note: I did this with the clamp still attached, but I forgot to take a picture until after. Plans for the barn wood box are here. Plans for the narrow trestle table are coming soon! Check out all of these cool projects that were modified!

This is such a useful project! Little did I know they could be modified! Then the formula for your board lengths is:.

But you can buy 1x3s off the shelf for this as well. I adjusted the miter angle on my miter saw to 45 degrees and cut 2 pieces with miters NOT parallel so that the total length long end to long end equaled the width from step 1. Then I cut 2 pieces the same way, but with length equal to the height from step 1. They need to align perfectly or your DIY picture frame will be crooked or unsquare.

You can get more details on this in my DIY cabinet door post here. Just make sure that you always line up the jig in the same location on each piece.

Glue ups are always a little stressful. So it is handy to have a second set of hands for this if possible. I applied glue to one corner at a time to give me time to get everything together. I glued each corner, and made sure to get some into the holes and inserted the dowels. Then squeezed together the best I could.

You can see in the video I shared above that I started on one corner and worked my way around. Once all the dowels are started into their holes, I used long pipe clamps to help me push everything together really tight and to help make it nice and square.

Once the glue was dry, I gave the corners a good sanding to get rid of any leftover glue from squeeze out, then put a Roman Ogee router bit into my router and went along the outside edges to give it a little decorative detail. If you're narrowing the frame by more than an inch, remove the hinge-side jamb as well. To make the frame shorter, pry off the entire jamb.

Remove the shims from behind the jamb pieces you've pried off and discard them. Rip furring strips from 2-byinch lumber on a table saw, cutting the strips along the width of the lumber, not the edge. You will have to extend the saw blade to its full height to do this, and you should use a sharp blade.

Cut the strips to the full length of the framing on which you plan to attach them. Attach the furring strips to the framing with wood screws long enough to bite at least an inch into the framing. Cut the jamb pieces with a circular saw to fit the new opening. If you've shortened the opening, cut off the bottoms off the side jambs so they'll fit inside it. Attach the jamb pieces that you removed, using new shims and a 4-foot level to plumb them. Tap the shims together from opposite sides of the jamb so that they meet in the middle.

Drive 2-inch finish nails through the jamb and the shims to make sure the shims stay in place. Cut off the ends of the shims with a handsaw. Nail off the jambs with pairs of 2-inch finish nails spaced approximately 10 to 12 inches apart.

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