How do I go about igniting black powder when it is compressed inside a metal tube where there is no oxygen? And also, how much gunpowder is supposed to be used? I put the gun powder just in the end of the tube, and both of the sides were not cealed, and I ignited the gunpowder and it just sizzled and the homemade bullet at the other end of the barrel didn't even move. Answer.  Your ignorance of your subject material is going to get you hurt or killed. "How do I go about igniting black powder when it is compressed inside a metal tube where there is no oxygen?" -- - Gunpowder is self-oxidizing, oh mighty brain donor. You really should know more before monkeying with explosives. "And also, how much gunpowder is supposed to be used?". Toy guns can be a neat addition to a costume, or an excellent prop for a game of cops and robbers. However, store bought toy guns can look silly, sometimes break easily, and can be expensive. It's a good thing you can save money by making   To make a toy gun, first cut a 6 by 6-inch square out of cardboard, which will form the barrel. Then, fold the square in half lengthwise twice to make a rectangular tube and secure it with tape. Once you have your cardboard barrel, draw around the square end on a piece of cardboard to fill the gaps. I made this DIY toy gun out of a piece of maple. It is a great project to practise shaping wood using the spokeshave and files. Tools and materials I. There are materials to avoid. Any capacitor should work. Tip: Save the camera case so you can easily mount the circuit for your coil gun later on. The void between the sleeve and barrel was filled with a proprietary compound. Athlon Outdoors Network.

Dracos machined my barrel down to a pencil profile before adding an aluminum sleeve. The void between the sleeve and barrel was filled with a proprietary compound. When baked and cured properly, this composite expands and hardens under the aluminum, applying an enormous amount of pressure on the steel barrel.

This changes the way the barrel whips, essentially eliminating any cold-bore shift. Secondly, the compound and aluminum act as a heat sink, allowing for more consistent temperatures between shots. So, after reading some independent studies done on this technology, I decided to give it a try.

This is a short-action cartridge with a correct body taper and case length optimal for projectiles with high ballistic coefficients BCs. I wanted something with a flatter trajectory and low recoil. Typical velocities for the 6XC range from 3, fps and higher.

I was sold. This brake has a very unique design with cross-machining for the ports along the side. The overall result is a small, sleek muzzle device that reportedly reduces recoil by 71 percent.

In other words, no gaudy brake on the end of the barrel. No excess weight. Just business. Stock selection can get tricky. Do you want a traditional stock or a chassis?

I like the versatility of a chassis system, but a traditional stock feels more comfortable in my hands. It has all the features you would expect: an adjustable cheek riser, an adjustable length of pull, aluminum pillars for bedding the action.

Another change I made from my previous stock is selecting carbon fiber in order to shave weight while retaining strength. But there are more likable features. Flush sling attachment points are included in six different locations. Additionally, the forend had been widened and flattened to provide a solid surface for shooting off barricades.

The grip of the PRS2 is near vertical like many tactical stocks for a good balance of traction and trigger reach. To finalize the stock, I needed to decide on the bottom metal hardware. For the most part, bottom metal looks like bottom metal. But the Mk-1 DBM unit from KMW Long Range Solutions stands out because of two features: the ambidextrous, low-profile magazine release and increased Z-axis support, which prevents pressure from being applied to the magazine when shooting from a supported position.

There are dozens of trigger options out there—adjustable, non-adjustable, curved, flat. A single-point screw—accessible without having to take the action out of the stock—allows for adjustments.

The sear is where things get unique. Up until now, triggers had the trigger bar directly applying pressure to the sear. When the trigger was depressed, the sear would fall, allowing the firing pin to slam forward. TriggerTech offers flat and curved models, and the pull weight can be adjusted from less than 4 ounces up to 32 ounces.

If you thought the action and barrel were the most important aspects, you were wrong. The chambering done by your gunsmith is by far the most important piece of this puzzle. One turn too far or too short—not good. Reamer concentricity off—not good. Lathe spinning too fast, creating drag marks inside the chamber—not good. I can keep going, but you get the point. These guys are the original founding members of the Sin City Precision Rifle Club, and they have lots of experience in building rifles similar to mine.

I was able to go to pick their brains and discuss the pros and cons of my build. DMR did everything I needed, from chambering the barrel to bedding the stock. Their attention to detail is second to none. I would need to write another article just to cover their process for building rifles, which, believe it or not, is different and more precise than most other gunsmiths.

The one thing I have learned is to find a gunsmith that you trust and believe in. If Murphy can make an appearance, he will, which is why I decided on a Modular Evolution bipod.

These bipods attach to the stock via a quick-detach Picatinny rail mount. The legs are made of carbon fiber and have locking positions at 0, 45, 90 and degrees. But here is the best part: The legs are also quick-detachable. Standing, kneeling, sitting—these can do it all.

Simply twist, lift and pull, then attach the length you need. If I can find a way to sabotage myself, I will. The locking turrets definitely prevent one aspect of self-inflicted sabotage. Use a soldering gun to attach the wire to the capacitor. Attach a black insulated wire to the positive terminal of the capacitor. Hold the end of the wire next to the positive terminal on your capacitor and use your soldering gun to attach it.

Run the black wire to a switch. The switch acts as the trigger for your coil gun. Cut your wire so it extends 3—4 in 7. Feed the exposed wire into one of the ports on the switch terminal and tighten it in place with a screwdriver.

Connect the switch to your coil gun with another black wire. Feed one end of the wire into the second port on your switch and tighten it in place with a screwdriver.

Solder the other end of the wire onto the copper wires on your coil gun to complete the circuit. Make sure your switch is in the off position before soldering it to your coil gun. Part 4 of Load a metal BB or piece of wire hanger into the pen barrel. Otherwise, you can use a BB or ball bearing as your projectile.

Feed the projectile into the barrel of your coil gun. Put the battery back in the camera and charge the capacitor for 5 seconds. Place the battery back in its terminal so a current can run through your circuit. Locate the triangular metal piece on the back of the circuit and press down on it with an insulated screwdriver.

Hold the screwdriver there for 5 seconds so the capacitor can fully charge. Turn on the switch to shoot the coil gun. Once the capacitor has been charged, flip the switch into the on position to shoot your gun.

Turning on the switch completes the circuit and charges the coils around the barrel, propelling the projectile forward. Once you shoot the gun, leave the switch on for 1 minute so any leftover voltage in the capacitor can discharge safely. Did you know you can read answers researched by wikiHow Staff? Unlock staff-researched answers by supporting wikiHow. Yes No. Not Helpful 4 Helpful 9. With that capacitor, not very.

This isn't a weapon. It is more like a school project. Not Helpful 4 Helpful Any capacitor should work. Bear in mind that if you get a capacitor that has a higher charge content, it will be more powerful. Not Helpful 2 Helpful 5. You should go for enameled wire for efficiency reasons.

There are materials to avoid. You are looking for wire with a low resistivity to reduce the amount of heat created. Not Helpful 0 Helpful 1. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered.

Submit a Tip All tip submissions are carefully reviewed before being published. Wear rubber insulated gloves throughout the build to protect yourself from getting shocked. Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0. Related wikiHows How to. How to. More References 5. About This Article.

Co-authored by:. Co-authors: Updated: October 8, Categories: Plastic Guns. Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read , times. Did this article help you? Cookies make wikiHow better. By continuing to use our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Kazuan Bennett Jul 26, Related Articles How to.

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