GenealogistWoodworker ignatowski Reply 8 months ago. Manufacturers helped by listing ingredients, something few do today. You only need to change the dimensions or number of strips that you use if you want a different size cutting board. Question 7 weeks ago. I know of no interior use for raw linseed oil. I've got some oak, beach, mahogany and a couple of others

The Genealogist Woodworker website. Genealogist Woodworker Instagram page. Genealogist Woodworker Facebook page. Genealogist Woodworker YouTube channel. Question 7 weeks ago. When you said for finish you "added enough until I saw it bleeding through the bottom", do you mean you kept applying to the top until it came out the bottom of the board? How long does that take?

Reply 7 months ago. Yes, until it came out the bottom. In the video you can see that it was all in one sitting. It doesn't take long, but it's not instant. I was always told to not use oak since it is very porous and can absorb bacteria. I'd probably substitute purpleheart instead. Fantastic design though. Good job! Lovely job, I'm always surprised how many steps there are in creating one of these patterned boards. I am after a project to use up some offcuts, I might give something like this a go.

I've got some oak, beach, mahogany and a couple of others Might work. What a beautiful cutting board! The results are great, but I'd be so scared General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish Home Depot Fr to cut it up for the final walnut pieces! Beautiful job! Reply 8 months ago. Super nice. I'd love to try something like this sometime, but have no idea where to find wood like this The local Lowe's and Home Depot have lots of pine, but it's probably not suitable for a cutting board.

Where do you find it? You have to find a distributor. I have one in my town that advertises as an unfinished furniture store, so get on google and do some searching. You can try the usual tool dealers, Woodcr ft and R0ckler. Also, you may have to drive to a bigger city to find a good selection of hard wood. You can order thru the mail but the shipping might be a lot.

The last option is to harvest your own, or go to the county dump where downed trees go to be recycled or even put in the land fill. Perhaps I need to drive around after our next hurricane! Lots of oak trees in the road, but I'm not sure how to go about cutting stuff that big. I have a small band saw and a small planer. I have a video on chainsaw milling if that's something that you are interested in.

My YouTube channel link is in the General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish Home Depot Earth last step of this article. I love milling. Free lumber, plus I get to save some trees from becoming firewood. I have friends who like to do that. They mill a lot of ash and elm which I turn into guitar bodies.

For the cost of some pizza and beer I get some good lumber, and can make a decent profit making Tele knock offs. Thanks, I think that's what happens to most of the oak trees down after a hurricane. First person on the scene with a chainsaw takes it home for firewood. Need to get me a chainsaw! The other folks gave some great suggestions. Probably the easiest method is to simply order it online.

Both websites offer domestic and exotic species. Pine definitely a no. It's too soft. Try Craigslist or if you are in Canada try Kijiji. Even Facebook Marketplace! I'd contact a local woodworking shop, etc. Introduction: Make a Plaid Cutting Board. More by the author:. About: Project videos and tutorials that show the creation of home decor and furniture. I specialize in DIY woodworking, building custom items for clients, friends, and family, showing a variety of woodworking tools… More About GenealogistWoodworker ».

Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It! Incredible Wooden Spirals by rschoenm in Woodworking. Telescope Setting Circles by instgct in Science. Answer Upvote. Reply Upvote. But it is more common in stores now than alkyd varnish. It is made with both alkyd and polyurethane resins more properly called "uralkyd" , and it is usually made with modified soybean oil so there is relatively little yellowing.

Polyurethane varnish is more protective and durable than all the other varnishes except conversion varnish. Spar varnish is meant for exterior use and is made with a higher ratio of oil to resin than interior varnish. This makes it more flexible to withstand the greater wood movement outdoors. Marine boat varnish is spar varnish with ultraviolet-light absorbers added to resist penetration by UV rays.

Many marine varnishes are made with phenolic or polyurethane resin and tung oil because these provide the best resistance to water.

There is a big difference in the amount of UV absorbers added to products labeled or marketed as "marine" varnish. The products sold in home centers and most paint stores have very little absorber added, so they are only a little more effective against sunlight than common spar varnish. The marine varnishes sold in boat marinas are far more effective against UV light. They are also more expensive. Wiping varnish is a term I coined about 20 years ago to categorize a group of finishes that are sold under different names, but are all the same - alkyd or polyurethane varnish thinned about half with mineral spirits so they are easy to wipe on and off wood.

This General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish Home Depot Express finish is the most popular wood finish with amateurs because of its ease of application and excellent protective, durable, and dust- and run-free results. Examples of commercial brands of wiping varnish are Wipe-On Poly, Seal-a-Cell, Waterlox, Profin and most brands of "tung oil" not specifically labeled percent tung oil. If you're not sure what you're buying, just make your own by thinning any commercial brand of alkyd or polyurethane varnish.

Add less than half thinner to achieve more build per coat. Add more than half thinner to improve flow and leveling. Salad bowl finish has had a long run as a popular finish, especially with wood turners, because General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish Home Depot Malaysia of 20 years of fear created in woodworking magazines regarding the safety of clear finishes from which to eat off. In fact, salad bowl finish is simply wiping varnish made with the same ingredients - including metallic driers - that are included in all varnishes.

The implication in the name that other finishes aren't safe has merely reinforced the misunderstanding created by the magazine articles. Wood conditioner or "stain controller" is the varnish equivalent of a nitrocellulose or vinyl-sealer washcoat you may use to reduce blotching or within multistep finishes to separate coloring steps. Wood conditioner is varnish-thinned with about two parts mineral spirits to produce approximately the same 10 percent solids content you might use for washcoats.

Unfortunately, it has become commonplace to think of wood conditioner as necessary to somehow "condition" the wood and this has led to its overuse among amateurs. Also, unfortunately, directions on the cans to apply a stain within two hours lead to unsatisfactory results because the thinned varnish has to be allowed to dry thoroughly to be effective.

This usually requires six to eight hours. Gel varnish is alkyd or polyurethane varnish made into a thick gel consistency similar to clear glaze so it doesn't run on vertical surfaces. Because gel varnish doesn't level on its own, most or all of the excess has to be wiped off after each application to get a level result.

In this sense, gel varnish is similar to wiping varnish, but with the difference that gel varnish produces a satin sheen, while wiping varnish produces a gloss.

Because gel varnish is less resistant to water than wiping varnish, it's often wise to apply several coats of wiping varnish before finally achieving the satin sheen with topcoats of gel varnish. Apply the gel varnish after steel-wooling the wiping varnish to remove the gloss. There are significant differences in the varnishes listed, but they all have one thing in common: they all cross-link to produce a hard, durable film that can be built up in several coats to be very resistant to moisture penetration.

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