These bits are hard to set up by the method shown in the video because they have to be perfectly centered on the work piece or the shoulders will be different widths and it won't work; it will leave a gap on one side of the finished panel. I wonder groovw it would be flush trim bit with v groove good idea to make the tongue bit cut a a small shoulder perpendicular to the plywood face on each side. Orders placed at this time will ship the week of March Finger Joint. Sign In. View cart. Biscuit Joinery.

Skip to the end of the images gallery. Skip to the beginning of the images gallery. Grouped product items test Item Product Name Shank. Out of Stock: Expected on: Notify me when back in stock Enter your email address to receive a notification when this item comes back in stock Submit Close. Add to Cart. In stock. Please note: You must have a variable speed router to run these bits.

Maximum R. Avoid inhaling wood dust or use a dust mask or other safeguards for personal protection. For more information go to - www. Tech Specs. More Information Tech Specs Features Include: Ultra-smooth finish on top and bottom of workpiece Extended life, even in abrasive man-made materials Please note: You must have a variable speed router to run these bits.

Questions and Answers. Product Reviews. Related Products Check items to add to the cart or select all. Router Bit Vise. Login Register Registered Customers. If you have an account, sign in with your email address. All matched 2 piece bit sets are two flute carbide tipped. Simply center the male cutter on the stock and make the cut.

Next match up the female cutter with the center point of the first cut. Finish by gluing together the two pieces and flush trim the edges, if necessary. Two styles are available. Recommended for use in a table mounted router.

Review this product Average Customer Rating: 5 reviews Add your own review for this product. I bought this set 2years ago, use them often and love the ease of using them. They sharpen easily. Their blades last a long time and if your not centered exactly, all you need to do is a quick planing to get things flush! This does make a strong and pretty edge but it is not a fast method to do it. These bits are hard to set up by the method shown in the video because they have to be perfectly centered on the work piece or the shoulders will be different widths and it won't work; it will leave a gap on one side of the finished panel.

To make setup simpler, make a trial cut on one edge, flip it upside down and cut the same side again. If the bit cuts off more stock on the second pass, it isn't centered and you will have to raise or lower the bit. I, too, found out that the tear out on the plywood cross grain was bad. I wonder if it would be a good idea to make the tongue bit cut a a small shoulder perpendicular to the plywood face on each side.

That would allow you to run the plywood directly against the fence, leaving the same small shoulder on the plywood, eliminating the need for taping a board to it.

By setting up the fence very accurately, I was able to eliminate that step but it takes a long time to do it. I also found that trying to use the straight bit to cut off the excess didn't work very well. It helps if you have a fence on the table that you can raise up the width of the exposed portion of the male piece, allowing it to go under the fence. I finally just sanded them off with a belt sander.

I just bought a set of the edge banding sets. I have pretty much used face framing and plate joinery to cover ply. Thought these might be a better way to cover it up. Boy was I wrong. I watched a tutorial to show how to set them up, which I followed, and the cuts were so far off it was ridiculous.

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