Still, it will last you a lifetime, and of course it will cut dovetails, too. A clearly illustrated spiral-bound manual, and an instructional DVD, provide excellent help. I glued and screwed it to finger joint jig router diy journal front of the base. I cut two pieces of wood the same size. Set your dado bit above the jig base high enough to cut a groove as wide as finegr alternate board for your corner joint e. Basically, you are creating tongues and groves that will go together to form a joint. For the Stumpy jig, I jurnal did do some things different from the plans, as noted above.

Then I removed the spacer and staggered and aligned the two notches on and up to the fixed key. It then became a matter of leap-frogging over the key until I reached the end of the board. The same result can be gotten by doing each separately. The first goes against the permanent key, the second goes against the spacer. Basically, you are creating tongues and groves that will go together to form a joint. I was very pleased with the result. Now I must admit I looked at dozens of How Tos on making this jig and Frankensteined my own version to fit my router.

You'll notice I only have one runner where as most I saw have two. Even one I saw made a second runner off the side of the table. Some were so elaborate it'd take me forever to build it.

The simple one I show here took a few hours on and off while doing other things around the house. It meets my needs, and that is the whole purpose. Make a jig to suit your personal requirements. I'm making my jig now. One question. In fig. Anyway to fix that? Reply 1 year ago. Hi, Allan, yes there is a way to eliminate that offset.

When doing your first pass and you are NOT against the key stop, make sure you accurately make that first cut without any tag--or offset as you called it. Some people use accurate keys in the open slot. What I eventually did was to carefully test scraps until I had an accurate starting point and made a mark on my jig.

It works. Let me know if this helps. I will be following you for I also born … This is just the plans I have been looking for More by the author:. About: In my shop I have a name for hammer, saw, and plier. The saw is Tess, the hammer's Joe, and Glumdalclitch is the plier. Yes, I'm brillig, and my slithy toves still gyre and gimble in the wabe. With that, le… More About Kink Jarfold ».

Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It! Take a look at Matthias' videos for a better description. Matthias' plans are great. I pretty much built mine just like the plans called for, so it went together very quickly. He provides a cut list and a bill of materials that makes getting everything together a breeze. I don't think I bought any wood for it- just made it from pieces on hand and only had to buy a handful of hardware. I had the UHMW plastic for the mitre slot runner on hand as well.

A couple of times I wanted to move the carriage the wrong way, so marking the gear with a direction indicator helped, even if my lettering is a bit crude. For the crank handle, its just a nylon spacer on a bolt with some nylock nuts.

The large gear sits on a plywood "table" to make it more stable when cranking, and I did put the recommended Teflon tape between the table and the gear to make it turn smoother.

The black knob on the right allows the table to slide into the drive gear and comes off to help swap out larger or smaller gears. You can see the carriage rides on wooden rails - the left rail is just a piece of wood inserted in a dado on the side of the carriage, and the right is the same idea, only the rail is cut at an angle. The reason for the angle is to provide a tight fit along the movement axis with only a small amount of force to pull it against the rail, and this happens quite well.

All in all, one of the criticisms I have seen with this is the idea that the wood would swell and stick over time, but I have to say I didn't really notice that. Nevertheless, there is quite a bit of friction that results with all that surface area in contact.

I did try applying wax, and a few other forms of lubricant to the runners to mitigate this, but there is still some friction to overcome. This is Finger Joint Jig Router Diy Github the mechanism that pulls the carriage onto the angled rail to take up any play in the carriage movement. At first glance at the plans, the idea of using a wooden spring seemed a bit clunky to me, but it actually works quite well in practice.

The top piece of wood in the slot is tapped into place over the hinged arm, pressing down on the arm. This presses the ball bearing against the front of the sled, pulling the carriage forward while still allowing it to move left to right. The hardest part of the build by far is the gears. I have a CNC machine and used it to cut out each one, but only in 2D profile. These gears are at a 90 degree angle to each other, so each gear tooth must be shaped with a compound angle on each side.

Once cut by the CNC in profile, I did use Matthias' method of sanding them on a table tilted at the specified angle. Even then, I had to make each gear a couple of times to get them to work well together.

I believe that if the main gear was mounted vertically instead of horizontally, the gears would be much easier to make and be a much smoother mechanism, even if it would require a mount to rise up above the jig and some way to accommodate the various sized gears. It might also make seeing the gear position a little harder than just looking down on them. The other problem I ran into was the combination of gear meshing and carriage friction made the forces on the drive gear and threaded drive rod great enough that occasionally in the middle of a cut, the ball bearing in its wooden housing would slip a bit out of position, which directly affected the accuracy of the cut for that tooth and all remaining ones.

This is so slight that you don't notice it until it is time to put the joint together to check the fit. In fact, it took me a while to find what the problem was. There are two screws to tighten the wood around the bearing, but you can only tighten them so much.

After stripping the screws on the first one, I replaced it with another bearing mount like what the plans shows, but I began to think that I needed to machine some kind of collar to keep the bearing from pulling out. This was the point I began entertaining Finger Joint Jig Router Diy 4k a different approach. Even with the above issues, I did make a few things with the jig. Above shows a cabinet for my router bits where I used finger joints cut on the Woodgears jig for the corners. The router bit shelves can be adjusted and tilted forward as shown.

This made a nice, satisfying cabinet for them - I used the design from Shopnotes On the left is a holder for shopping bags made from the plastic bottle of a nice Canadian Adult Beverage with its top and bottom cut off, and screwed onto a stud.

The problems I found with the Woodgears jig I am sure could be overcome with some tinkering, but that means I found myself being reluctant to use it, wondering if there might still be a better way. That was when I ran across Stumpy Nubs' website who also sells plans, one of which is also a box joint jig. Now, before I go any further, let me also say that I really like Stumpy's website and his videos are very funny, entertaining, eagerly anticipated, and I think he has a great sense of humor.

Don't let his self-effacing jokes obscure the cleverness of his designs, though - he also has many interesting ideas to share. Stumpy's plans are also sketchup pages, but the lack of video of the unit being built or in operation makes me think you really need to watch the Woodgears videos before building Stumpy's jig.

Stumpy's video on the jig is limited to what is presented on his show, so it is constrained by a narrow time window and the need to entertain as well as inform. Also, to be fair, it should be noted that Stumpy had the advantage of making and using the Woodgears box joint jig before designing his, whereas Matthias certainly did not have that advantage. Like Isaac Newton said, "If I have seen far, it was because I was standing on the shoulders of giants.

Stumpy's plans also lack a cut list and a bill of materials BOM. Some might say that the lack of a BOM is no big deal, and they are right - it is no big deal to make a list of the parts you used, with sizes and maybe even a column for their source and how much they cost, but if so, why wasn't one included with the plans?

I think many woodworkers buy the plans to simply reproduce the unit shown in he video. The plans shouldn't be indefinite about what was used or what size pieces were chosen for what was built. It is okay to say that some parts may be lengthened or shorten to accommodate more or less capacity, etc. Likewise, a cut sheet lets you instantly see how much plywood or other materials you will need. Knowing that it will only take a quarter sheet of plywood or whatever it needs helps me to cost out the thing when I am making the build decision.

Okay, I know the plans are a just a few bucks, and I probably expect too much from them, but I definitely have to give Woodgears the nod on this one, since these items were included with their plans and I find them very useful.

Anyway, in spite of this minor issue, it looks like Stumpy's jig is the one I will be using. Note From the Future : Imagine your favorite time metaphor here - sands falling in an hour glass, pages of a calendar being blown away one at time, me cleaning Finger Joint Jig Router Diy Usa my dust collection system, etc Since I wrote this, Stumpy has changed his plans format for new projects.

They are now plain ole. Don't know if the older projects will remain as sketchup files or not, though. As for construction, after getting the plans, I printed each scene the tabbed views in sketchup and studied them a bit to see where the critical parts were and got very friendly with sketchup's measuring tool, having to write down dimensions on the hard copy since many were not explicit on the drawings.

After doing this and coming up with my own BOM to take to the store, I decided to start with what I thought would be the hard parts first. The plans call for the quick release mechanism to use a split nut, joined with a threaded rod by epoxying the pieces into a block of wood. The bottom is the nut cut in half with threads that engage or disengage the threaded rod to micro-position the carriage.

Although cutting a piece of wood to house the coupler and filling it with epoxy is a solution that requires only simple tools, I decided to make it a bit differently. I have a good friend, John Groeneveld, who is a very capable aircraft welder with a nice TIG setup who welded the above part for me.

Deciding to use a coupler instead of a nut for more thread contact surface, I split the coupler on the metal bandsaw but careful hacksawing will do the same. By chucking the threaded rod into a drill press and lowering the end onto the coupler half, the rod stayed perfectly aligned while John made a very nice weld.

Lighting was somewhat limited when I took the photo in Figure 8, so sorry about the crummy depth of field. I finished making the gears I used a CNC machine to cut them out of oak, making them a bit larger than the ones shown in the plans, but you can make them with a bandsaw or even a jig saw and sandpaper just as well. In the middle is the quick release split coupler piece in Figure 8 with a spring, bushing, and knob added, and on the right is the upper crank assembly with the 16 tooth gear and bushing.

I changed the part that holds the quick release rod a bit, waiting to drill its position until the base and sides were done to see how the guides went together and allowing me to see just where the quick release rod fell onto the position of the threaded drive rod. The fit of the quick release mechanism is critical.

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