Will you do door casing miter clamps difference article on jack mitered casing any time in the near future? Therefore the glue has 2 flat surfaces to hold to instead of porous end grain. Search Go. New adhesives, spring clamps, and fastening systems have made it easier than ever to pre-assemble casing. Those look pretty good. Yes Forrest, the funky shaped ones!

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Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice. Chuck Kiser Posts: Carpenter in the Desert. Life is too short for bad wine or cheap tools. The slightly resemble a a tall, narrow I-beam, cut on the flat side to a 90deg. They are shot in from the outside corner of the miter, 'pronged' end first.

I will see if i have a loose one floating about and post a pic. I've seen the spline that you are talking about. The picture that you have shown is the side profile view. You should post an end profile view, it makes the spline make more sense. The top and botom portion of the "I" provide physical resistance to prevent the miter from opening. I think the major limitation to installing those on site would be the amount of force required to install them.

I believe in shops they are installed with a pneumatic gun that is larger then a framng gun. Glued dominos and biscuits should provide close to the same resistance. Holzhacker Posts: I always nail the legs in first and then the header.

This allows me to push the top casing down into the legs for a bit of tension. Something I learned in play production. Corrugated nails take time and don't work well with newer trim. Nowadays if the job calls for it, I pre-drill and put in a 1 square drive screw from the top down. This system works great for me. I can trim out all the openings and then go back, drill and insert the screw. Miters stay tight. Since the screw is on the top coming down a little colored wood putty and no one ever knows.

Quote from: tDot on December 25, , PM. Forrest Anderson Posts: Spring clamps can be used to assemble a wide variety of projects: door and window casings, molding, even picture frames.

Can you miter trim without using clamps? For a reasonable price, this simple, helpful tool can elevate your finish carpentry work. Simple yet versatile, this no-frills hand tool is a must-have for any old-house restorer.

An indispensable mainstay for old-house restorers, the 5-in-1 tool has more uses than you can count. Crown Point Cabinetry offers custom cabinets for period style kitchens, baths, offices, laundry rooms, home bars and more.

Architectural Elements. Home Decor. They are a bit pricey but I think that are definitely worth it! Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website.

Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk.

The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice. Hi do you reinforce the miter? Those look pretty good. Ive got 2 of them and they are amazing. Ill sometimes cut and clamp them before finishing and then spray the whole thing, comes out beautiful. Jason Kehl Posts: I've got a dozen of them and love them. I use a pneumatic upholstery stapler and shoot a pile of staples across the backside of the trim with one staple leg on each side of the mitre.

I got the idea for the staples on-line somewhere, maybe Gary Katz?

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