Once the pads have a little dollop of solder paste on it, place the components on the pads. If the tabs are pressed in pretty well, so that you know there is good contact, countersink drill bit lowes up that's OK! Once drilled, place countresink coping in the notch you cut out earlier. The microcontroller counts pulses from the encoder, and can deduce the motor RPM from them. It will hunt for the ideal rotor time constant. You will most likely need a USB to serial adapter for the serial communications unless your computer's nickname is Methusela :. If you made mistakes like I did, you should adjust the templete.

This would allow for kW. Three current sensors you really only need 2, but the 3rd is for extra safety if you want it :. Make sure it's rated for at least v. It doesn't have to be those colors. It also works if you get insulated ones, and just pull off the insulation:. All hole locations on the picture are given relative to the upper left corner of the base plate. If you have a way to precisely drill the holes, go drill them and move on to the next step!

If you don't have a super fancy mill, don't lose heart. It can still be done. These next steps are for those who only have a hand drill The base plate is officially drilled! Now, flip it back over and sand the area where the IGBTs get mounted, using or grit very fine sand paper. Notice in the picture of the base plate above how it's nice and smooth where it was sanded?

Now, make sure there are no shards of aluminum raised up around the holes on the top and bottom side. If there are any, lightly drill the hole with the countersink bit to knock off the raised aluminum. For those with a precise way to drill holes based on x,y coordinates, see the picture for notes on all the coordinates and diameters of the holes, and drill all of them!

For those of you who have the ability to drill precise holes based on x,y coordinates, these 2 steps are for you! I'll just list them here:. It has all of the safety circuits, as well as the brains for controlling the motor. There's a dsPIC30F microcontroller, which simultaneously samples 2 of the 3 phase currents, throttle position, and base plate temperature, and then based on that information, sets 6 pulse width modulation duties, which control the 6 IGBTs.

Those 6 IGBTs power the 3 phases of the motor. So, if any current measured from the current sensors goes out of bounds, or the 24v or 5v power supply voltages go out of bounds, the controller shuts down the IGBTs in about 2 millionths of a second. That helps to keep the IGBTs Countersink Drill Bit Lowes Java cool. Let's start soldering!

Solder the surface mount capacitors and resistors first. The easiest way to do that is to get solder paste:. The surface mount pads are the ones that have no holes through the board. And they are labeled Cxxx and Rxxx, where xxx is a number. For example, C21 or R Once the pads have a little dollop of solder paste on it, place the components on the pads.

The paste should hold them in place. If you have a hot air soldering rework station, just hit them all with some hot air, and they will all solder into place nicely. Otherwise, hold each part down with a toothpick, and touch each pad with a soldering iron until it's good to go. These surface mount parts are very big as far as surface mount parts go and packages , so it shouldn't be too bad. Next, solder all of the through-hole resistors and capacitors.

YouTube has tons of soldering tutorials if it's new for you. The resistors have no polarity. The only 2 capacitors on the board with a polarity are the electrolytic "can" type. Next, add all the diodes. Those parts on the board start with a D. For example, D5. Pay careful attention to the band on the diode! Make sure it is put in with the same orientation as the picture on the board called "silkscreen". There are good videos on youtube for explaining how to solder SOIC parts.

It's not too bad. Now solder all of the other components. Make sure you have grounded yourself before touching all of the things that came in the static shielding bags. Basically, don't walk around dragging your feet on carpet before touching those components. I have a piece of sheet metal that's by my soldering station.

The sheet metal is connected to the ground outside through a wire. I touch the sheet metal before I touch the static sensitive components. That way, any potential zapping that I would do is drained away to the earth. Be sure to program the ATTiny25 before soldering it in!

It can be found here:. Also, you will need something like AVR Studio, which is free. Debug the control board before proceeding!! If you have a bench supply, try giving it Program the microcontroller with this debugging code, and measure the voltage between each pair of the 0. See the picture above for the notes on this:. Bend the 3 sheets where the half drill holes are along the edge remember when you kept half of the perimeter drill holes when you cut the sheets out?!

You can use a piece of wood and just fold the copper and nomex down. It should look like the pictures above when you are done. It will take a heavy duty soldering gun. Put all 3 sheets together like in the picture, with the nomex sandwiched in the middle. In the picture, it shows Countersink Drill Bit Sizes Js the holes already drilled in the 3 sheets. Notice that the nomex in the picture has rectangular holes. That was annoying to do.

Don't bother! Circular holes work just fine. If you already have your holes drilled, move on to the next step. You are done here! But for the poor people with only a hand drill, stick around. This next part is for you:.

Tuck the lip of it under a piece of plywood, so that the sandwich can lay flat without squashing the 2 right angle bends. Lay the lexan sheet with the capacitor holes on top of the sandwich. Sort of try to place the holes like they look in the picture above, but it's not important to be very close. Pay attention to the correct size of each of the capacitor holes, depending on which sheet you are working with.

Put some kapton tape on the B- tabs of the capacitor as is shown in the picture above. Attach "the sandwich" to the capacitor. Add the 3 pieces of kapton tape as shown in the 4th picture above.

First attach the thermistor the temperature probe. Then, add a very very thin layer of thermal paste to both the base plate and the 3 IGBTs. A credit card works well for this. Then, bolt them down using the 1" x 0. Torque them at diagonals. For example, if the corners were labeled clockwise as 1, 2, 3, 4, torque them down as 1, 3, 2, 4.

Make sure the 4 quick disconnect tabs on each of the IGBTs are facing down like in the picture. For the people who already drilled their IGBT mounting holes because they had access to a mill or whatever, you are done with this step! Move on! For those people using a hand drill, I just want to say I am sorry for what you are about to have to do:.

Drill some 0. Now, transfer those 6 holes to the 3 sheets that are still bolted on to the capacitor. Now, rebend the B- sheet as before, put the sandwich back together, reattach the capacitor, and we are ready to go! Don't you wish you owned a CNC mill now? You will first have to build your cables.

That will require a way to crimp the lugs onto the cable. Notice the picture of it slightly flattened. You could use 2 pieces of wood and a vice to flatten it a bit or 2 pieces of wood and a hammer?

It will take some bending to get the lug to mount right at the IGBT tab. Use a lug with a 0. Otherwise, you will smash the heck out of the heatshrink and it will get damaged. OK, this step might take a bit of cajoling, but it should go on. Don't try to force Countersink Drill Bit Toolstation 05 it all the way down. If the tabs are pressed in pretty well, so that you know there is good contact, then that's OK! Enough is as good as a feast, as my mom used to say. Feel free to bend the tabs a bit if you need to so they all go in to the female connectors.

Once the PCB is attached to the IGBTs, for each of the 4 PCB mounting holes, add the M4 x 12mm metal screw through the bottom, then a 8 washer or 2 over the metal screw, and then the M4 x 30mm threaded nylon spacer, and then the nylon M4 x 12mm Countersink Drill Bit Dewalt 100 screw that clamps the PCB down against the spacer. Go ahead and plug in the temperature sensor, as well as the 3 current sensors to the control board. See page 3 of the attached current sensor datasheet for the pinout of the current sensors.

You will only need 3 of the 4 pins from each current sensor Vref is unused , which means you need to build the cables using 3 wires. I usually use shielded 3 wire cable, but you could also twist 3 wires together. Make sure the cable is either shielded or twisted! This allows the surface to be as smooth as possible and keeps your body from being ripped to shreds during a fall.

With the masonite on, you will be able to check the coping placement. If constructed properly, you should have about 1'-6 between the Masonite and the ground. The steel threshold is also available at steel fabrication shops. You may be able to find the steel at home improvement stores too. They don't have the best selection, but it might be enough to get you by.

Once you have the entire ramp built, go back over it and make sure you don't have any screws sticking out at all.

You'll probably want to do this again after a few days of skating on the ramp , and then every once in a while after that! Nothing will ruin your day more than catching a screw while dropping in. For better mobility, attach an old pair of trucks with wheels to the back of the ramp. Then you could just lift it from the front steel plate, tilt it up until those wheels touch the ground, and then wheel it around easier. If you leave your 3' Quarter Pipe outside, then you'll need to protect it somehow or the elements will start to tear it down before you even have a chance to wreck going off of it.

Building your own 3' Quarter Pipe is easy, won't take too much time, and should cost you less than a hundred bucks when you're all through. By Steve Cave. How to Build a Skateboard Kicker Ramp. How to Build Skateboard Ramps and Obstacles. Flip the unit over and countersink the hole on the pivot piece side only no need to countersink the side rail. Slip a bolt into the hole and install a locking nut. Now line up the second side of the short ladder in the same way that you did the first and make another bolt hole and install the second bolt.

Exact placement is not critical as long as you go through the Pivot Piece at some point, but I put mine half way between the top two rails. Again, ease the bit in gently to avoid splintering on the Pivot Piece. If you do get splinters as I did you'll have to trim them with a chisel as you won't countersink this hole. Exact depth is not critical but make it somewhere between the depth of the tee nut and the width of the side rail.

Flip the unit over and do the same on the other side. Insert a tee nut into each of the holes in the side rails and tap them down with a hammer if needed. Screw the thumb screw in from the outside of the Pivot Piece.

It does take a fair bit of screwing to seat it but it does the job. Question 4 months ago on Step What is the measurements on the triangle pieace?? I thought I saw a drawing, but now I cant find it. I am going to finish mine with a non-toxic oil finish.

You know baby is going to mouth those rungs. Better using a nice oil finish than feeding the kid paint. Even a non-toxic paint strikes me as less benign than a linseed oil. Reply 5 months ago. I realize this comment was two years ago and you may well have already known the difference , but before anyone else tries it, it's important to note that common hardware store boiled linseed oil uses an assortment of really nasty drying agents that are the opposite of non-toxic.

Think "heavy metals" - and we're not talking Manowar here. You might not want to expose your baby to Manowar either, but it's probably less harmful than lead and cobalt. I haven't used them, but there do seem to be some versions of BLO that are formulated explicitly to be non-toxic - you'll have to shop carefully for them, though. Raw linseed oil, on the other hand also sold as flaxseed oil is safe They're more expensive, but McMaster doesn't have a minimum order.

As for the purpose, I'm not positive and I hope someone else can correct me on this but it looks like it acts as a release pin to fold up the triangle. Someone else recommends hitch pins for what I believe is the same purpose. You can find less expensive but top quality birch dowels through Amazon. No stores in my country have any 1" dowels right now. Question 8 months ago on Step Tip 11 months ago. Made it! If you made mistakes like I did, you should adjust the templete.

Reply 9 months ago. Hiya, how did you have to alter the template for the top triangle piece for metric? I'm working with metric too. My dad made us one and used U shaped hitch pins. Reply 10 months ago. Question 1 year ago on Introduction. If so what is the scale or actual size.. Thanks so much for posting this and your time in answering my question. Answer 1 year ago. The template is in Step 1, under the special equipment section at the end. It' a separate download.

Took me a minute to find it as well. Question 1 year ago on Step 8. Tip 1 year ago on Step 6. I like to keep it simpler than simple. I bought 24 feet of 1X3 instead of 12 feet of 2X3 because I couldn't find 2X3 stock and I don't have a table saw to rip 2X4 down to size. This also eliminates the need for a Forstner bit. Then I glued them to their undrilled mates.

This way, the holes line up perfectly and you don't have to measure four pieces separately. It's a real time saver except waiting for the glue to set. Also, by crowning them in opposite directions, I know the lumber will never warp, whereas a single piece can warp more easily.

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