Great sources for wood bowl turning skill and knowledge building. This board is for everyone who is a maker of wooden bowls or even thinking about turning bowls! Wood Turned Bowl Green Wood – Pecan Handheld Video. () Wood Turned Bowl Green Wood – Pecan Handheld Video - YouTube. Wood Turned Bowl Video – Old Oak Rock Hard. () Wood Turned Bowl Video – Old Oak Rock Hard - YouTube. 4 Bowl Gouge Techniques — Push Bowl Turning Chuck For Shopsmith English Pull Scrape Shear Cuts Video. () 4 Bowl Gouge Techniques — Push Pull Scrape Shear Cuts Video - YouTube. Along with Chuck Jaws, browse our full range of Shop Supplies for woodturners in our Chucks section. We are the premier woodturning tool, equipment, and project kit supplier.  From specialty jaws for holding pepper mills and pre-drilled projects to bowl and spigot jaws and everything between, we have it for you. All chuck jaws are high quality brand name jaws including Vicmarc, Oneway, and Nova. NEED HELP? Talk to our friendly, knowledgeable staff about all your woodturning needs. This bowl chuck is a must for any serious bowl turner. Turning is easy and safe with the four-jaw wood chuck’s underlying advantages of stability, strength, and ease of use. We will explore the integration of the four-jaw chuck in the wood bowl turning process. Then we will discuss how the chuck works and how to go about selecting the right wood bowl chuck or rather chucks for your particular needs. Wood Chuck History. It’s interesting to note that the four-jaw chuck has only been used for a few decades in the woodturning world. Some enterprising woodturners, frustrated with limited chucking o. Ray, Great question. Simple Woodturning Bowl turning chuck yang. It is the breakthroughs that make all the difference. John King said:. The two standard ways of chucking the turnng of a bowl during primary turning are with either a glue block or a four-jaw scroll chuck. I like the sound of this course. Posted in: Woodturning turningwoodturningsandingbowl turningbevelwoodturning tools.

Whether you are using a dovetail or serrated grooved jaw chuck, an undercut angle on the tenon is essential. There are a couple ways to create the undercut tenon angle to accommodate the jaw angle. Let me share with you how I create this undercut angle. Using a dedicate spindle gouge with a long fingernail grind, I start my cuts on the edge of the tenon and push inward. With the tool rest parallel to the base of the bowl, I place the tip of the spindle gouge at a degree angle right on the edge of the tenon cylinder.

If the gouge is not at a degree angle, it will either be pushed away from the tenon, left or skate across the tenon top, right. Gently apply pressure until the gouge makes a small groove, then slowly add pressure until the Bowl Turning Chisel Set Guide spindle gouge is cutting forward. Push the gouge along the edge of the tenon inward making an undercut angle until it meets the shoulder.

Repeat this cut until the angle matches the chuck jaws. If you have a serrated grooved jaw chuck, use the same technique to remove material near the base of the tenon to accept the serrated grooves.

With the lathe stopped you can check the angle by attaching the chuck to the bowl base. If the angle is too shallow, remove more material at the base of the bowl tenon. If the angle is too steep, the area at the top of the tenon needs to be trimmed back, and because of that, the tenon width is reduced.

If the bowl tenon becomes too small and the chuck does not grip, just turn away the existing tenon and create a new one. After doing many bowls, I eyeball the angle with a spindle gouge, and it matches pretty close. It takes a few bowls to perfect, but anyone can do it.

If you prefer more precision compared to a freehand gouge angle, consider making a custom dovetail bowl tenon scraping tool. Converting a dedicated parting tool into a custom dovetail scraping tool is possible. Using a simple protractor, measure the angle of the chuck jaws. Grind and undercut the cutting edge on the left side of the parting tooltip.

This first ground angle will be used to form the flat shoulder side of the cut. Now carefully mark the jaw angle on the right side of the parting tool. Make an undercut grind to create this angle. The parting tooltip now is 90 degrees minus the undercut angle of the dovetail jaw.

Once the angle is correct, and the two sides are undercut a bit, not flat or 90 degrees, refine the cutting edge with a finer grit wheel or hand hone the edge for a sharp, clean cut. Using this custom-created tool is straightforward. However, it is important to realize two sides are cutting or scraping at the same time and this can cause a catch.

Want to avoid catches, read this. Work slow and gently introduce the tip into the tenon bottom corner. If the base shoulder is clean and flat, there should be little or no cutting occurring on the left side of the tool.

As the tool reaches the corner it will begin undercutting and making a perfectly matched bowl tenon angle for the dovetail jaws. There are a couple of specialized bowl tenon scraping tools which may be purchased as well. Hurricane makes a Dovetail Tenon Scraper check Amazon for current price which is designed to make a push scraping cut at the perfect dovetail angle.

Also, Nova has a Dovetail Chisel that also scrapes a perfectly angled dovetail every time. We need to mark the center of the bowl. This step has taken me a very long time to get in the habit of remembering. Later when the bowl is nearing completion, and the tenon is to be removed or further shaped, it makes it so much easier to mark the bottom center of the bowl tenon.

The tailstock can be pulled up and, with the lathe turning, lightly push the live tailstock center into the bowl tenon, marking the center. I like to use the same spindle gouge I use to make the bowl tenon dovetail angle to simply make a little, indented tick mark at the center with the lathe turning. Using the spindle gouge saves the trouble of moving the heavy tailstock for a simple center mark. That little mark we just made is critical for lining up the tailstock and getting the bowl back to its center to remove the tenon.

Using a scrap piece of material, and the same tenon-creating techniques described above, we need to make a jam chuck. A jam chuck is merely a piece of wood that has been turned round and smooth to match the shape of the interior of a bowl closely. Jam chucks can be made in a variety of shapes and sizes and stored for use with particular bowls. The nearly completed bowl is then positioned over the jam chuck with the tenon side facing out or right.

A piece of foam padding is placed between the jam chuck face and the bowl interior to protect the bowl surface. With the lathe off, position the padding inside the bowl and center the bowl over the jam chuck. Bring the tailstock up and match the tailstock tip to the center mark created earlier.

Apply enough pressure from the tailstock to hold the bowl but not excessive pressure. Start the lathe slow and confirm the bowl is centered. If the bowl wobbles a great deal, stop the lathe, loosen the tailstock and adjust the bowl until it turns truer. Re-tighten the tailstock and bring the toolrest up to the bowl tenon. Want more details about making your own custom jam chuck? Be sure to read this thorough article about making jam chucks.

Using a freshly sharpened small bowl gouge, make light cuts and gently shape or remove the tenon. Do not try to part or remove this nub with the lathe turning.

Instead, make it as small as possible and, with the lathe off, chisel off the nub or sand it off. As I mentioned before, some people like to leave the tenon as is on the base of the bowl. The bowl tenon can also be turned and shaped into a foot, or it can be removed entirely. In some cases, notably taller or more angled turned pieces, the tenon and shoulder may be later incorporated and used to increase the final base of the bowl.

But the importance of having a proper and secure attachment to the lathe while finishing your bowl cannot be stressed enough. Learning to make a correct and accurate bowl tenon for a wood turned bowl is a significant step along the path of making great bowls. Thank you and Happy Turning, Kent. It is very obvious that the quality of your videos and supplemental material is only preceded by extensive planning, Having a very expensive disaster in the shop this morning details are not important suffice to say that Trump paid for it with his incentive check necessitates the need for an addendum to your basic bowl turning video.

Your thoughts and input is appreciated. If a tenon is poorly shaped and causes problems, it can be remounted in a jam chuck and turned true again. It is through the challenges and trials that we build our skills and solve problems. It may be a lost turning, but the experience and knowledge gained is priceless. Shame on all teachers that bypass this most fundamental aspect of turning a bowl, or anything else, for that matter.

I have been on a hundred, or more sites that teach this or that about turning…not once, till now, have I learned how to prepare a proper tenon…so many months, or years blaming the wood, the lathe, the Chuck, etc. I also know this…. Is this to fast for the wood cole jaws? Tom Simmons.

Make sure you stand away from their turning plane. Hey Alan — Great video and instructions! One question however. If thicker, either counter sink more or purchase longer screws. Very useful project. As Wood Turns. Steps: Cut plywood to the size desired.

Do NOT cut into individual jaws. Layout the center, 45, and 90 degree lines. Position a set of metal jaws on the plywood and mark the hole positions. Punch and drill holes for mounting to the chuck. Counter sink. Mount plywood to the chuck base. Using the lathe, mark concentric circles 1 inch apart. Saw the jaws apart and shape them. Center punch the intersection of the 45 degree lines and the concentric circles. Drill a shallow hole for the t-nut flange on the reverse side — using the small hole for guidance.

Drill holes for the t-nut shaft at each intersection.

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