Buy Woodturning Tool and get the best deals at the lowest prices on eBay! Great Savings & Free Delivery / Collection on many items.  12PCS Wood Turning Chisels Woodturning Carving Woodworking Clay Tools Set TO. £ Was: £ £ postage.  % agree - Would recommend. £ New. 8pc Pro Wood Lathe Chisel Set Woodworking Carving Woodturning Tools. out of 5 stars. Woodturning tools are the direct connection we, as wood bowl creators, have between us and the wood. While there are countless tools available only a few select instruments are needed to form an elegant bowl.  Specialized woodturning tools are available to scrape the dovetail angle of a bowl tenon perfectly every time. Simply form the cylinder shape of the tenon and then lightly scrape the uncut dovetail area with this special 3/4″ Dovetail Tenon Scraper and the tenon is ready to fit perfectly in the four jaw chuck. A similar specialized tool cuts from a different angle but performs the same results.  The Electric Angle Grinder with the 4″ Chain Cutting Disk Wheel makes the work of removing bark from a specific area easy and quick. < Recommended Equipment Guides. Search Here. Woodturning tools work hard - ploughing through hard wood at 30 miles per hour or more - so they need sharpening frequently. Cutting time between sharpenings is measured in minutes even with the finest high speed steel tools. A good grinder setup is essential for every woodturner and it is vital to learn the skill of sharpening before you can enjoy turning wood (1) First you need a Grinder. A 6" or 8" double ended engineers grinder is fine and will sharpen or re-shape your tools quickly and efficiently. Page 2- Grinder information page, choosing a suitable grinder You will need to. I like to make inward turned rimmed bowls occasionally. Remember Me. Very nice website, Kent, thank you. Namaskar sir warm thanks for sharing your valuable information. Ken, Thanks for the comment and sharing your thoughts on gouge angles. Note: A lower angle will produce a cleaner cut, but it tends to break down quickly when used for scraping. I have some 60 degree beveled bowl gouges, but just find the 70 to work and woodturning tools grinding angles 20 better in the transition and across the bottom of the bowl.

Sharpening often is good. Thank you for every other magnificent article. Where else could anyone get that type of info in such a perfect way of writing? I have a presentation next week, and I am on the search for such info. I have been doing wood turning for over 30 years. From their opinions I have found angles that work best for me. I find wood turning to be personally rewarding and relaxing.

I enjoy experimenting! It is amazing how much beauty is hidden inside wooden blanks. I am new to lathe work, I have been sharpening by hand but getting a bench grinder very soon. I do buff my chisels using some autosol on a piece of leather to take the fine burr off but wonder if I would get a better cut leaving them unbuffed. Would you have an article on tool rest height and positioning of tools while cutting by any chance?

In general, a burr left on your tools is what does the actual cutting. Usually, that burr is very small and can only be detected by running your finger again the edge. For tools like negative rake scrapers, I apply a burr with a burring tool.

Regarding tool rest height and positioning tools, I have an article all about Avoiding Catches, check it out. I have heard a lot about buffing after sharpening and have tried same, my first attempts caused rounding over of the edge so I gave up on that. However, after sharpening there is sometimes a wire edge left may be due to my inability to do it proper I do use a proper jig. Some people swears by buffing, What are your thoughts on it and some advise on proper method to do.

Incidentally, your advice on sharpening is superb. Typically tools are buffed to look good for purchasing. If you are turning a great deal you will need to be sharpening often and adding buffing can be time-consuming. The wire edge you mention can be formed a number of different ways. Thanks for the comment and Happy Turning! Thank you so much,. Thank you for your kind words! My goal is to make it easy for anyone to understand the details behind making and turning wood bowls.

Thanks again and Happy Turning!!! Thank goodness, someone who tells it like it is! Nice article well written and to the point. Namaskar sir warm thanks for sharing your valuable information. Regards Anand P Deo. Thank you for your kind words. I am working on a video version of the how-to-make-a-basic-wood-bowl Check back soon. Thank you! Thank you for the comment! Super article; last year At the Utah Wood turning symposium I took in several sessions on turning bowls and platters given by Stuart Batty.

He also advocated a micro bevel on his gouges. He also advocates freehand grinding if you feel up t it. Once I returned home I started grinding and using 40 degrees as the angle for all of my gouges with the exception of one gouge which is ground at a much higher degree 65 for getting down in those deep and steep areas of the bowl walls.

Your article has prompted me to do a bit of experimenting with different angles. One major advantage I have found over the past year since free hand grinding, is that I sharpen more frequently especially before the final cuts and it has greatly improved my final product befor the sanding process begins.

I attribute this to going over to the wheel more frequently and touching up the tool as before I was reactant to take the time to set up the grinding gig and set the angles correctly which took up more time.

I thank Stuart for that and now your article to get me on a better track to have sharper and more consistent bowl gouge tools. Thanks for the great comment Bob! Experiment and have fun. Happy Turning! If you have a newsreader or a news page you can add this RSS and you will see all new posts when they arrive. I will be adding email subscription in the near future for updates. Stay tuned.

FYI — New article coming tomorrow. Just a suggestion… I see a new addition to your site.. Update notice to the listed email of this new information. I will be adding an email sign up in the near future. Username or Email Address. Remember Me. Like so many things in woodturning, there are numerous answers. Why are there so many answers? Here are the approximate bowl gouge sharpening angles for various bowl gouge styles.

Micro Bevel Gouge Detail Photo. Thanks, Kent, for sharing your knowledge and expertise. Thanks for sharing. See, we all have to do what works best for us. All the best to you! Just read your article. Thank you for the information. I really appreciate your expertise. Let us know what you find. Hi Bob, I would need to see it. Email a pic to me at kw at turnawoodbowl. Bob, A fingernail profile is fine if that works for you. Bob, Sure you can sharpen without the Vari-grind jig.

Good luck with it, Kent. Tom, Thanks for writing and you fine compliments. Ken, Thanks for the comment and sharing your thoughts on gouge angles. Hello Samantha, Thanks for your thoughtful comment. Thanks again and Happy Turning, Kent. Thank you so much, Farrell Eaves Signal Mtn. Thanks for writing Chris and Happy Turning, whatever grind you may be using!

I am old as dirt…. Still experimenting with these ideas. Yea I accidentally ground my flat scraper to a negative rake and forgot the 90 degree rule. It wouldn't raise a decent burr. When I reground the underside to give me less than 90 it worked.

Now I'm talking about measuring the angle from the top bevel to the bottom bevel. That's what I call an included angle.

Just so we are on the same page. You are much more in tune with scrapers than I am. I only use them in a pinch to clean up some area I have difficulty with.

Jamie Straw. Tim, I've felt for a while that there is a need for cataloging sharpening information in a way much like Machinery Handbook provides quick information for machinists. So, I put this together as a web site that shows information to answer many of the questions you've asked. You can get the information at www. There are no ads or flash; it's just the facts. I use a Tormek to sharpen, so it also shows how to get those angles using the Tormek jigs where there is one.

Good luck, Rich. Last edited: Oct 24, RichColvin said:. I use a Tormek to sharpen, so it also shows hot to get those angles using the Tormek jigs where there is one. John, the NRS's that I use that have included angles greater than 90 degrees, are mostly used for insides of boxes or slightly closed forms. The grinder burr works on them, just like on a standard scraper, but I am preferring the burnished burr for that tool.

Cuts cleaner and lasts longer With the more blunt NRS, the burnished burr lasts a lot longer than 45 seconds. The more blunt the the angle, the smaller the bur. Making the angle more acute enables you to raise a bigger bur, but there is a practical limit limit dictated by durability. When the angle is too acute then the bur is too large and breaks off because of not enough supporting metal for the force being exerted by the wood.

Conversely, a large angle results in a much smaller bur that isn't as effective. Somewhere in between is a happy medium. With the more acute angle the bur would be easier to break which I would interpret as use lighter pressure for very fine finishing cuts.

Maybe the two of us need to corral SB for a show and tell. Actually, I'll be the watcher while the two of you show me. If there were Star Trek transporters, I would try to organize a big play date so we can swap tools, ideas and techniques. Need to get Tom Wirsing, and a micro camera in the X range for burrs. Or maybe we can transport John Lucas's micro camera thing he uses to the play date My take on burrs, is size depends on several factors.

For sure, with more acute angles, it is easy to raise a really big burr, but that burr, either burnished or from the grinder has no strength. The size of the burnished burr depends on angle of the burnisher to the metal. If it is almost parallel to the bevel, then you get a better more functional burr.

If you are at a steeper angle to the bevel, you can get a big hook that doesn't cut as well. If you just brush the edge, you can still get a long lasting burr that cuts very cleanly. Most people put way too much pressure on the burnishing tool. The grinder burrs on my 70 degree scrapers with either V10 I think Stuart uses V10 or M42 are good for roughing out a 12 inch diameter bowl, both inside and outside without having to go to the grinder.

With the Big Ugly 70 degree bevel and tantung or stellite, the burr, either from the grinder or burnished, is good for half a day of turning. The traditional card scraper used for flat work is a 90 degree bevel Order an extra large transporter for John's camera since it is a scanning electron microscope. The test article is placed inside a chamber and then a hard vacuum is pulled and the it is bombarded by an electron beam Raul McCai.

Joined Oct 29, Messages Likes 89 Location nj. Tim Leiter said:. The only reason I pay attention to the angles is when I demo or teach everyone seems to want to know. I started off saying it doesn't matter, whatever works for you but that seemed kind of rude. Now I try to at least give them an idea. It is supposed to be better than the symmetrical grinds Now I have to experiment again.

If it does work better, that might fit in with my theory that a more blunt bottom bevel can make for a stronger burr Have to experiment some more Well, I googled that one and theirs is an 80 degree bevel on the bottom, and about a 25 or 30 on top. All of my standard scrapers are 70 degrees on the bevel, and I have one or two 70 degree bevels with about a 30 on the top.

These are better for the insides of goblets. Interesting that they used them on spindles and more of a peeling cut than scrape Have to cut up some wood and play some more You have one??? That top angle could be less, but I don't know, just glanced at it In looking at their video, the first shots of it in use show it taking a pretty hefty cut for a NRS.

Not so later. When using it on spindles, it looked like they were doing a peeling cut, so rub the bevel, raise the handle till it starts to cut, and continue. Depending on the burr, that would make it similar to a card scraper. I may have to watch it again, because they may have been doing a peeling type cut on the bowl. I sure wish I knew what you expertly experienced fellers were talking about concerning the different uses and grinds for an NRS.

I don't have any idea how to use one on spindle work but I am going to try if I can figure out the grind angles on the top and bottom of the scraper. I'm so glad that excellent conversations are happening on my originally posted question.

Great to read all of this. Well you would use a negative rake scraper on a spindle held flat. Done that for years before I learned about cutting tools. Ever used a skew on it's side to shape a bead. Same thing as a negative rake scraper except we usually put a burr on a scraper and the skew won't have a burr or at least extremely small one. I did a test for the editor of woodturning magazine a few years ago.

Someone wrote an article about using a scraper in a bevel rubbing mode and she wanted to know if that was safe or feasible. I tried. Because the edge was reasonably blunt compared to a spindle gouge it didn't leave as good of a surface. Prior to my Raptor tools I would sharpen only when I absolutely had to. Now, I keep my tools sharper and my cuts smoother because the set up is easier and quicker.

I can sharpen my bowl and spindle gouges without trying to eyeball the bevel and get back the fun part of woodturning so much faster. This has been one of my better investments! Comments On Oct 29, I was having a lot of trouble setting up my Wolverine Sharpening System to get consistent angles on my wood turning tools.

So I purchased all 5 of the Raptor set-up tools. Since I started Woodturning Tools Bowl Gouge Instagram using them I have gotten great, consistent angles on my spindle gouges, roughing gouges, bowl gouges and scrapers. I didn't know how much of a difference having the correct angles and getting them sharp as they can be with the Raptors. It makes my wood turning much easier, consistent angles is the key. They work great and they are very easy to use. They make setting up my angles perfectly with my Wolverine system, every time.

Comments On Aug 12, sharpening tools is never fun! Do it wrong, and the damage to you project as you force a tool through the wood can ruin everything. With the raptor system, setting up all the components to get a repeatable grind is quick and easy. Because of this system, all my tools have consistent grinds, I spend more time at the lathe and less at the grinder, and I no longer have to constantly reshape the tool to compensate for bad "free hand" grinding, which will make the tools last longer.

Here's a tip I found: I now write the degree of the grind on the handle of each tool with a sharpie so I can match the correct raptor guide to each tool. Comments On May 31, the difference between thinking you know what you are doing, and doing it right, quickly became apparent to me, when i used this product.

Comments On Jan 02, This product does just what it says it will. I am a novice sharpener, but am able to produce consistent results without multiple bevels. I first place the contact points on the grinding wheel and then slide or tilt as appropriate the sharpening jig into the other end of the Raptor. I was doing it the other way around initially, but now find this easier. I seem to be producing Ellsworth's desired bevel angle.

Comments On Oct 15, My new set of Raptors arrived today and I had been looking forward to fixing the angle on my skew - I had been having trouble getting the platform of my Wolverine set to the right angle and distance from the wheel.

I wanted a 35 degree angle on my skew so I picked up the 35 degree Raptor, then a little while later I measured 70 degrees on the skew. Editors Note: You're correct. Skew chisels typically require a bevel angle of 30 degrees or less.

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