You'll be able to more easily get glue in wooden jointer plane plans github and you may discover other hidden faults that could later become problems if unaddressed. Product Recommendations. First time here at your blog. Bill simplifies the jointdr hand plane building process, including wood selection, layout, mortising, using joointer, building handles, chamfering the edges, truing the bottom, and finishing the plane. We may receive a commission when you use our affiliate links. I have a rounded iron in my scrub and in a 5 for rough work. The plane is in good, used condition.

But it was a metal-bodied plane — only remotely similar to a wooden-bodied plane as used during the 18th century. I liked the feel of the plane, and its long body made sense for one of its purposes of shooting edges to join boards. So why are we seeing a renaissance in wooden planes? Not just using them, but making them? I recently watched a just-released video with Bill Anderson on making an 18th-century jointer plane.

I watched with a reasonable level of curiosity as Bill moved through the history and all the steps necessary to create a functioning plane that could have been created hundreds of years ago. What caught my curiosity was the mechanics of the plane and how it worked the wood.

Slight adjustments in the throat, and how the blade is positioned and held in place, make a significant difference in the quality and performance of the work being done. By taking the process down to a basic level, the workings of my Delta also make more sense. This lesson offers a visually stunning and very detailed video about traditional plane making that is comprehensive enough for even beginners to successfully follow along and build a jointer plane of their own.

Bill simplifies the complicated hand plane building process, including wood selection, layout, mortising, using floats, building handles, chamfering the edges, truing the bottom, and finishing the plane. Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.

Before this video came out, we had a very in depth discussion on one of the forums regarding the design elements and how to make a double iron mortised wooden plane. Now looking P. How long is your plane? Hi Sylvain, a method I have used several times to get glue into a split is to use dental floss. Give it a try. It is strong enough to bring it to task and fluffy enough to spread the glue.

The plane is about mm. But I will double check it. The purpose of the camber is clear. Question is if it make sense to have a cambered iron in a jointer. I guess it depends on how one will use it. Cheers, Stefan.

Thin cyanoacrylate glue in crack followed by activator would be what I would try. If that doesn't fix the problem you can always do the more labor intensive repair. In a worst case scenario You can always tell the 'Frau' its cheaper then going to the gym :. I think to make a new handle is not necessary at this point in time.

I will try the one or the other proposal from all of the great comments. Great find on the jointer plane. Be very careful if you try to open up the gap a little because the forward part of the handle has a small amount of wood and the top of the handle could pop right off. Hi Matt, thanks for the hint.

I see that problem too. Pretty sure trying to squeeze glue inside the crack by opening it a little would result in breaking off the top part. I would then attempt a clean break to remove the top part altogether.

Dowel would not be necessary, but you may want to drill a hole and put in a small nail instead of a dowel I would use epoxy and never worry about it anymore Yes, a small camber is normal on some jointer see Chris Schwarz take on it i just relieve the corners slightly on mine Bob.

Hi Bob, I understand. Even if the split already opens slightly I have the same fear, that the top will break. But in case of the top would have been removed and I could glue it back on. Leider hatte ich noch keine Gelegenheit da mal reinzuschauen. Mir ist also schon klar warum die Dimensiion bei deutschen Hobel gleich sind.

That's one reason why the planes are Ulmia Jointer Plane Zip looking somehow similar. The good thing is that the plane irons and the wedges are interchangeable. Nice plane. I would saw right down through the split with a thin saw.

That way both the glue surfaces inside would be clean. I would then glue in a small piece of veneer of the right thickness. This way there should be no more stress left in the handle. Brgds Jonas. Hi Jonas, that makes sense and sounds good to me. I'll try to figure that out. Stefan, Not much to add other than: Congrats on the find it's a good looking plane. I think in one of the replies was mentioned using the camber for edge jointing which is why I keep a slightly cambered iron in my longer planes.

If I stop to think about it about the only plane with a straight iron is the 51 shoot board plane. That is also the only iron I use a jig to sharpen, maybe related First time here at your blog. Like it and i'll be back. Concerning the plane, a beauty it is. Hard to tell in the photo, but is there a fine crack opposite the big crack? Either way, i think you should gently spread the known crack.

You'll be able to more easily get glue in there and you may discover other hidden faults that could later become problems if unaddressed. Hello, thanks for your kind words. Glad that you like my blog. At the first look I thought the same. But it isn't a crack. The color is changing there and in the picture it looks like a step or crack.

I'm nearly sure there isn't another one :- Thanks for your tip. I think I will widen the crack with a saw and inserting a thin piece of Beech. Talk soon. Hi Stefan, Enjoy your blogs immensely. Regarding the cracked tote, personally I would drill and counter bore a hole straight Old Wooden Block Planes Guide down. Clean out the crack and use hide glue, then insert a screw in the hole and use this as a "clamp", but leave it in there, and plug the hole with beech no glue on the plug.

Odds are the tote will crack in the same spot if it is dropped, and other glues are hard to remove if it needs to be repaired. The plug is easily removed and the screw acts as a strengthening post.

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