If you don't have a jointer but you do have a table saw then this tablesaw jointer jig can get you by. It's easy to make and very effective. The jig isn't. A cross cut sled for your table saw is an essential addition to your table saw jig collection if you are any way serious about your woodworking. Not only will it be more accurate than using the miter gauge, it will also make cross cutting easier and more importantly safer. Now there is no “one size fits all” with cross cut sleds so most woodworkers will have a few to cater to for a range of cross cutting needs. Unlock your table saw’s full potential. The table saw’s power and precision put it at the center of everyone’s shop. Despite this honored position, a table saw is mostly used for mundane ripping tasks. To make better use of my table saw, I use these four simple jigs in my shop. They take advantage of the table saw’s speed and accuracy without tempting you to perform risky operations. The first jig crosscuts small parts Mortise And Tenon Jig For Table Saw Ca without putting your fingers in harm’s way or sending little offcuts flying back into your face. The second jig allows you to repeatedly rip very thin stock without the risk of   -Five-star knob, #27RB, $2. Hardware store 1/4″ x 2″ bolt, $ ea. -Incra Miter Sliders, 18 in., #14V59, $15; 24 in., #, $ -Toggle clamps, #, $ Drill Press Accessories. Dado Sets. Shop Safety. Table saw jig hardware need to drill out a hole though the dead centre of the cutout, this is a clearance hole for the bolt. Adjusts jiv perfect sliding action in any standard miter gauge slot with just a twist of table saw jig hardware wrist Locks securely in any standard miter gauge slot with another twist of the wrist Includes threaded mounting holes and hardware for easy attachment to any application Includes plans for a wide variety of shop-made jigs and fixtures All mounting hardware included. No matter how great your miter saw is, it will never compete with the accuracy that a Miter Sled for your table saw is.

I decided to make a better, safer version. I'm really pleased how it came out, it is also more functional. A piece of 18 mm ply sized to your table saw. Table saw Angle grinder with metal cutting disc Router mounted in table, 12 and 8 mm router bits.

Not having any t-bolts to hand I need to make my own, I took a couple of 8 mm coach bolts, trimming off the sides with an angle grinder gave me perfect t-bolts.

The reason for squaring off the bolt head is so that it doesn't turn in the slot when you tighten it down during use. With the 12 mm router bit I cut a slot, this slot needs to be just over the depth of the head of the bolt. When cutting the slot you need to stop it short of both sides, to do this I pencilled two mark on the router table fence, this allowed me to plunge the wood about 30 mm from the first side and stop before the other.

Now, without moving the router table fence, swap out the bit for the smaller 8 mm bit. Not moving the fence ensures the next slot is perfectly centred on the previous one. This second slot also needs to stop before the ends and is for the bolt to pass through the baseplate.

One of my ways to make the jig safer was to attach it to a runner, eliminating the chance of the jig moving away or worse nearer to the blade. Using a piece of hardwood sorry don't know the type I cut a strip to the correct width. I used a zero clearance insert in my saw as the next cut was going to be narrower than the gap in the normal insert. If you don't have a zero clearance insert, they are pretty easy to make, mine is just 12 mm MDF.

The second cut was to trim the runner down to just below the depth of the t-slot, you want to do this so the baseplate will sit squarely on the saw table. To attach the baseplate to the runner, space the runner slightly off the bottom of the t-slot, I used a couple of thin strips of wood but in the past I've used washers. So long as you can raise the runner above the level of the table that will work.

Add a couple of drops of superglue CA glue to the top of the runner, both ends and in the middle. Coat the rest of the runner with wood glue. Now raise the blade as high as it will go, you'll use this to align the baseplate.

Holding the baseplate against the blade lower it to the runner, press it down to allow the superglue to grab. Carefully lift the baseplate and flip over, you now want to drill a few countersunk holes in the runner, finally secure the runner with some screws. The clamp hold down bar is next, I made two of these. The first one will have the clamps screwed into and this was made of hardwood maple and the second was just a riser, this was made of a piece of pine.

These pieces need slots cut in them to allow for the bolts. Start by centring up the bar with the router bit, then cut I used the same stop marks on the fence to allow me to plunge the wood onto the router. To make the slot all the way through I made 3 or 4 passes. I had originally planned to use a spanner to tighten down the bar but I tried this a couple of times and it was dreadful. I took some maple hardwood and cut a couple of 50 mm squares.

Onto these squares I marked out the outline of the 8 mm nuts. I then carefully chiselled the outline, clearing out the middle, a couple more goes around the outline took it to the depth of the nut.

You'll need to drill out a hole though the dead centre of the cutout, this is a clearance hole for the bolt. I will be making my own handwheels in the future, so easy, cheap and completely configurable to your needs. The end stop is easy, just take a small piece of scrap and screw it to the end of clamp bar. This stop will allow you to make repeatable length cuts it also enhances the safety helping to stop kickbacks. I had to make a guess as to where to place the clamps but as these are only screwed down they could be moved in the future if not in the correct location.

As you can see in the 8th picture when the blade is at its highest point it just clears the underside of the clamp. I would love to say this was as designed but it was a happy fluke. In the last picture you can see the riser bar, this is necessary if you have a taller piece that needs cutting.

Just remove the clamp bar, put the riser underneath and reattach the clamp bar. These Bessey clamps are amazing, within reason they can automatically adjust for the height of the clamping. With a 60 mm clamping distance and 40 mm height adjustment, along with the riser bar there is a huge range of sizes this jig will accommodate.

The main usage for this jig will be for putting the classic double tapers onto table and cabinet legs. Hitting all four sides with a tight taper gets you an incredibly sharp spike Good luck out there Van Helsing. Another use for the jig is to cut a straight edge on to a piece of wood that can't be run against the fence. The clamps hold the piece so it can be run through the saw without the need for a straight edge on the other side.

Perfect if you don't have a jointer. Hopefully you have found this Instructable useful, if so please give it a vote in the 'Build a tool' contest. Reply 6 months ago. I am going to make one! This is way better than my homemade jig similar to your version 1. I end up with 2 clamps and scraps of wood to keep everything lined up and prevent the work from flying off the table.

I may fabricate the hold down clamps to save money and work out a way of adding some sort of measuring system built in. Thanks for sharing. Go for it, you'll be amazed how much safe you feel making cuts on the V2 jig. You'll start making super fine, delicate tapers.

Making your own hold down clamps would certainly save a bunch of cash as these Bessey clamps were expensive. One thing I would say is that the Bessey ones are automatic height adjustment within reason and they hold very well. The third jig is going to be a Miter Sled. This is a jig to help you make perfect 45 degree cuts, or miters, anytime. No matter how great your miter saw is, it will never compete with the accuracy that a Miter Sled for your table saw is.

The beginning steps are almost identical to the cross cut sled. You need a base and runners. If you are going to be making multiple jigs around the same time, you can go ahead and cut all of your parts at the same time to Mortise And Tenon Jig For Table Saw Video eliminate having to reset your fence. A lot of people use hard wood for their runners.

I then screwed in the runners. To make the fencing for the Miter Sled I used two pieces of plywood glued together. I then pushed my sled base half way through.

I then took my speed square as I know it is at a 45 degree angle and referenced off the blade to draw a 45 degree mark. You want this fence to overhand your kerf line so that after you secure it in place, you can run the sled through the blade and cut it at an exact Now I can set the second fence next to the first and use the table saw to make its cut.

Then you can flip it over and secure it to the bottom with screws. Just make sure that when you are cutting pairing miters, you use one fence to make once side and the other to make its pair. Keep in mind that these are bare bones sleds to to get you going.

You can always incorporate add ons to upgrade your sleds and jigs further. Most of the links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Thank you for supporting me in this way. With life so busy, I have not seen you post smaller wood working projects like this in some time. Back to your basic roots. Please keep it coming.

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