The rod, together with the thumb screws on the router, give the router it's travel across scarf joint router jig bed, and the ability to lock it in this axis for lengthwise routing. This is as good as it gets. I've seen smaller types with flat bottom and eased corners, but nothing like that search turned up - might just have to get me one of those! Scarf joint router jig Kayak. WOmadeOD muadibe Reply 4 years ago. I have 'taped' the blade guard in the open position to make things easier.

Next we need a fence to hold the jig at the required angle, I would prefer to make it adjustable as then it can be used for other jobs. The only problem is that it will not quite fit under the blade guard so 3 options are available to me.

Option 2 does not appeal having heard how my father cut his fingers off, and the same also happened to an ex-neighbour, who was a woodwork teacher in a school, as the blade guard is also the dust extractor, without it you get sawdust in your face while you work.

Cutting the jig would be more work and mean that I loose one of the screw holes on the hinge, so it looks like a slight adjustment to the jig base would be preferable. The next problem to overcome is connecting a Scarf Joint Router Jig 30 6mm aluminium plate to a sturdy brass hinge. Having assembled it I remember other times I have had problems with steel bolts in aluminium threads. As the aluminium is so soft it has a tendency to strip the threads if over tightened, and I have a tendency to over tighten everything.

So the second attempt is to countersink the aluminium holes to take the bolt heads and drill and tap new holes in the brass hinge, where the threads will be much more sturdy. Taking shape nicely, how do I make the angle adjustable?

After reviewing what stays are available I decide to take the support hinge from a cheap window stay and attach a piece of threaded rod as an adjustment. The securing method is to clamp together a nut either side a fixed tab with a hole in it. Note the hole must be made slightly oval horizontally to allow the rod to move freely.

I could attach some clamps to secure the wood against the table, but I find it easier to hold as I slide the table. Note the cut is made at the far end of the jig for a 1 in 8 scarf, but still take care where you place your fingers. For long pieces of wood I will support the end on a roller support adjusted to the height of the saw. The final result is an easy to cut repeatable scarf joint for timber up to three inches which is the thickness that my saw will take, I doubt that I will need to scarf anything larger than this, if I do then it looks like making another jig.

This jig was made from bits and pieces that were to hand and works very well, if you have a table saw with a sliding table its worth considering, but as already stated other jigs and tools work equally well. To comment on Duckworks articles, please visit our forum. Custom Search. Note: I use Cab-O-Sil for everything in the boat including the scarf joints. West System agreed with this approach too except for building spars and other extremely high stress structures. Note that this is the reason for the over-hanging joint over the edge of the table as shown in the drawing.

You can use a sharpened mixing stick, a plastic putty knife, or whatever for this step. I cut out a special tool from the flat side of a plastic 1-gallon milk jug. I liked how the milk jug plastic was thin lifts the epoxy better without smearing it all over and how it followed the wood nicely just the right amount of flex.

By making a special effort at this point to clean things up very nicely leaving a flush, nice flat surface behind , your post-cure cleanup will be almost nothing Sometimes tiny little beads of epoxy will continue to come out for awhile. Just keep scraping them off as in step 6 above.

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