A pictorial guide to help you construct a router jig capable of creating perfect compound-radius fretboards. Make sure you check the videos at the end!  You’ll need to use the compound-radius calculator to you build a jig that functions exactly as you need it to. I’ve included an image that shows the specifications of an Ibanez SZ being entered into the calculator so you can see how it’s properly used – the jig is also built to exact specifications in CAD for this particular fretboard. You’ll also need to know how to use a circular routing jig to cut the radii. Construction Breakdown: The spacer allows for independent angles of the bars while keeping them at an exact distance from each other. Radius end board dimensions. A simple circle ji. Advice on using a router jig. How to use router templates. Wonkee Donkee Trend - also, shop for router products online.  Ovolo/Rounding over router cutters from Wonkee Donkee Trend. What are Trend ovolo / rounding over router cutters? What are the different types & sizes of Trend ovolo cutter? Radius router cutters from Wonkee Donkee Trend.  Using a router jig. You need to ensure you are using the correct accessories if you use any of the jigs available for routing applications. You should check the instructions with individual jigs for precise guides to which bushes and cutters should be used and how exactly the router should be operated when using the jig. Using a circle cutting jig makes round table tops so easy. Making table tops can be tricky if you’re making them different each time or even if it’s your first one. Then you add in the round option. Now, it gets even more tricky because you have to figure out how to cut a perfect circle or figure out how big to make it. I’ll give you a step by step look into how I went about making a round table top with a router circle cutting jig. First, I will literally list all the tools I used below. Tools I used to cut the round table top Plunge router: www.- (Disclaimer: I do not own. Occasional hired gun rock drummer by night The sort keys have a round cut router jig function to shift a bit. I used the table saw fence to align the first one flush with the edge of the base [Fig. Simple but accurate. I left the glue to cure overnight and then flush cut the hardboard to the plywood using a flush trim router bit.

It's easy enough that you could make it every time the need arises. I recommend using a plunge router with depth adjustment with this jig. Perfectly doable, just inconvenient. Start by removing the bottom plate from the router and tracing it on one end of your plywood FIG 1. Use something to trace a circle that is smaller than your base I used a glue bottle.

Draw the circle so that the outer edge touches the mark you just made. Use a straightedge to draw lines from the outer edges of each circle and then cutout the jig with a jigsaw or bandsaw.

Use a twist bit that is slightly larger than your screws to drill the holes through. This will be the bottom of the jig. For the bottom layer, I wanted something thin, but dense. Note: Be mindful with the glue near the center slot. You want to avoid squeeze out, as that will create catching points in your key way.

I left the glue to cure overnight and then flush cut the hardboard to the plywood using a flush trim router bit.

Auto-alignment is an important concern every time I make a Round Cut Router Jig Github jig to custom fit one of my machines. Not only does it reduce setup time, but it also improves accuracy.

For this jig, I'm using a front stop and a retaining peg. For the peg and holes, I'm using a Festool domino. I started with the hole in the edge of my router table top because I wanted it vertically centered for strength. It's just a matter of setting the fence height, holding the tool firmly against the table edge, and making the plunge cut.

You could do the same thing with a dowel peg. I would then clamp it to the edge of the table flush with the tabletop and use it as a guide to drill the matching hole in the table. The stop and deck were joined using 6 screws.

I used the drill press for the countersunk holes, clamped the two pieces together, dialed in alignment with a speed square, drilled pilot holes so as not to split out the plywood, then drove the screws. The back clamp needs the ability to slide, so that there is enough clearance for the jig to be dropped down onto the table.

Instead of eyeballing it, I used the top layer of the soon to be clamping block to mark accurate locations. With the jig affixed to the router table using the front stop and retaining peg, this board was butted up to the back table edge, securely clamped, and used as a template to transfer hole locations [Fig.

I made a poor choice in cut direction, which resulted in one end of my slot being torn up. Instead of remaking the entire deck, I drilled out my mistake with a 1" forstner bit and plugged the hole with a section of 1" dowel [Fig.

Once the glue was dry, I cut and sanded the Round Cut Router Jig 75 plug flush Tip: I had to remove the fence to test fit the jig and locate the deck holes, but didn't want to lose the established location. My solution was to but a block up against the fence on each end and clamp it to the tabletop [Fig.

The back clamp is a three piece lamination. I could then flip the block over and use this small hole as a centering guide for a forstner bit. The hole was drilled deep enough to recess the T-nut - roughly one ply.

A bit of epoxy and a few hits from a hammer locks the T-Nut in place. The clamp knob is made from a 2" length of 2" diameter dowel. Once the glue was dry, I trimmed off the excess at the bandsaw and sanded it flush using the oscillating belt sander. I took a minute to admire my assembled jig The first hole is for the router bit. To locate that hole, I used a small V bit.

With the jig clamped to Round Cut Router Jig 60 the table, I raised the router lift until I heard the bit make contact with the hardboard. The second and third holes are for the lift and lock controls, which I just located by measuring in from the front and side edges of the table top. For the operation of cutting discs, I want an adjustable pivot point, so that I can cut a variety of diameters.

We already cut the key way into the deck The bottom width of the key way is 1", so I ripped several plywood strips to that dimension - some will be for test cuts. I made the cuts on the router table - sneaking up on the cuts both in terms of fence adjustment and bit height, until I had a good fit [Fig.

I did encounter a bit of binding, but it was easily resolved by removing some material from the bottom of the keys with the drum sander [Fig. Note: I made extra key stock while I had the settings dialed in. I'd rather have it at the ready and never need it than have to make it again. I made short and long keys, so I could try them both and decide Round Cut Router Jig Image what works best for me.

Have fun, and be safe! I have the same fixed-base Porter Cable router and made a circle-routing jig for it. What I'm trying to sort out is how to start the cuttingdo you have to loosen the router height adjustment while it's running and rotate it down to the depth you want and re-tighten?

I probably should just use my plunge router, I guess! Reply 7 months ago. Reply 2 years ago. Don't ever loosen or attempt to adjust the depth while it's plugged in, let alone running. A plunge router is safer, but it can be done easily without one. Set the depth with the router un-plugged, plug it in, turn it on while holding it securely it will jump a bit when you turn it on , then slowly lower the bit into the workpiece while keeping the side of the baseplate against the fence.

Tip 2 years ago. One very important thing to remember is to take into account the thickness of the cutter bit you are using, and compensate for half of that in your finished circle diameter. This is great! I came up with a really similar jig on my own. Good to see it's a common solution :. Once you tighten the nut to hold the desired size of the circle, it seems like you will be tightening the fixture to the work piece making it hard to go around.?

Reply 5 years ago. What none of the pictures show is the post that sticks down from the jig under the t-handle. When you tighten the t-handle you are only tightening the post into position. The post then will drop into the hole you drill in the center of your workpiece and allow the jig to freely rotate deg around it. Nice looking jig. Having a good jig is the secret to most of my successful projects.

I use this circle cutting technique frequently, but I just take a long strip of fiberboard and set it up for a fixed radius. I just posted my Cardboard Ball Chair www. If I cut a lot of circles of various sizes I'd certainly make a jig like this. The all-thread allowed for very precise adjustments and long radii.

I used this to make concentric rounded grooves in an old wood door. The resulting pattern made the door from a very junky piece to something that looked like art. I love using radius techniques whenever possible. You can do a lot with them. By tashiandmo Follow. More by the author:. I would think that most of not all of these materials could be found in most workshops.

The cost to purchase these items would only be a few dollars. It does of course assume that you have a router to use the jig with. Make a mark on the center line one inch away from the outer edge of the baseplate. My baseplate was round, but many will have a flat edge. Did you make this project? Share it with us!

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