So for example your measurements are On the one I am building for bencbtop 55 rockler benchtop router table 55 drum, 4" pre separator the drop slot will be 1. You WILL have to stop, restart the cut to move the clamps. Our three categories celebrating projects that make positive environmental and social contributions are now open for entries. This keeps it from backing off. Hope this helps! This gives you the center of the square.

Plunge is easier to start the cut with, a fixed base is a bit more dangerous to start the circle cut with. I use the Craftsman branded version of the Milescraft I got mine from Rockler no problem I have both a junk old Skil jig saw, and junk Black and Decker blades.

They work, but are not ideal. I am using an oscillating spindle sander, you can also use a sanding drum on a drill press to do the same job I use junk sawhorses for mine and don't care if I cut into them. The flexible fabric kind to measure and mark the outside radius. Now that you have the stuff, we move on by measuring the top of the container, outside lip to outside lip. I am again assuming a trash can here An example.

Add those numbers up, and then divide by the total number of measurements to get your average. So for example your measurements are Now divide that number in half to get your radius the space between the center point and the outside edge. That equals Now that we have a radius, we know we want to overhang the edge just a hair to keep things from slipping in one way or another.

Now we have a radius of Say you are using a quarter sheet of MDF. Measure 21" up the long side, and using your square draw a line across, insuring it is square, measure the distances in a couple of locations to insure you have it right. You should have a sort of square, 24" wide x 21" high. Using your square line up the opposing corners of the square and draw a line corner to corner.

This gives you the center of the square. Lock the jig down. Be careful to keep the clamps out of the path of the router. This is why we put it on a surface we can cut. This last cut you MAY need to move clamps around to keep the circle piece captive while you complete the cut. Now to cut the rabbet. You WILL have to stop, restart the cut to move the clamps. I cannot succesfully do this via plunging, I simply sneak up on the cut and go to full depth riding on the bearing.

Make the cutout for the baffle. Cutting holes in the lid for the plumbing. This insures alignment. Install 2 normal nuts on each end, and a washer, allowing enough space to pass through the work pieces. Pass through from the inside, from the outside install washer, and lock nut.

This keeps it from backing off. You are good to go. Same applies below. There appears to be a wing nut in the center of the baffle on the underside.

What is that for? The baffle appears to be offset from center on the lid. Is this correct, or is it just a funny camera angle when the photo was taken? In regards to 1.

The wing nut. While that is Phil's photo, that wing nut isn't really part of the design per se. I believe the reason he has it there is simply to plug a hole in the hardboard he used. In regards to 2. YES the orientation of the baffle to the inlet bend is important, and that is NOT an optical illusion.

You want the solid part just starting as the air comes out of the inlet so it can ride around a bit before stuff drops into the can. I have seen read I messed up and oriented it wrong this done backwards, and scrubbing becomes a very real problem very fast Quote from: dbhost on June 30, , PM.

You are close to right. Yes the center of the baffle is indeed the center of the lid, and yes it is over the center of the trash can, drum, or whatever your vessel is. I do not know why Phil designed it this way, and if it needs to be adjusted for larger sizes. On the one I am building for the 55 gallon drum, 4" pre separator the drop slot will be 1. Right or wrong that is how it will be made.

Hope this helps, and sorry about the slow reply. I didn't notice your post for the longest time Quote from: dbhost on September 11, , PM. I would probably start a new thread, and perhaps ask Phil directly about that issue with the underside of the baffle. I noticed it on mine too. As far as I can tell, and I have never asked phil about his concept here, but it seems like the idea is to keep the air spinning long enough for debris, and dust to fall out of the air stream, air smashing against the sidewalls of the container should do that In turn the solid center section keeps the stuff that has already gone into the dust bin from getting sucked right back up into the filter.

You will always get some ultra fine dust that goes through your separator, but it shouldn't be much My shop vac filter is pretty well caked too I'm thinking a smaller diameter separator could help. Question on the plans: Exhaust air ducting X-ray images of flowers by researcher and designer Mathew Schwartz form the identity of this year's Dezeen Awards.

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