Position the butcher block top over the island, allowing for yi 1" overhang on all sides. Pocket hole jig jumia yu did want to point a few differences between what was done here and what you typically get with a traditional butcher block. House Hunters International pm c. At this point, it really would have been nice to have a planer. Pocket hole jig is used for corner and angle pocket hole joints.

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No Demo Reno 3am 2c. Rehab Addict Rescue 4am 3c. Before you build your drawer, you need to prepare the drawer back. You need to do this on both the right and left side of your drawer back. Make sure you are doing this on the BACK side of the drawer back.

The groove for the drawer bottom Pocket Hole Jig Jumia 2018 is on the inside of the drawer. The opposite side of that groove is the drawer back and the bottom of the drawer back — back. Good luck! Good luck. You can cut that out with a jigsaw. Now you can go build your dangblastid drawer! Bottom notch. Location for hole. Location for hole in mm. Using floating tenons, dowels or pocket screws. If you drive a screw in the groove, the drawer bottom will not slide into place. Great tutorial!

Where are you getting the prefinished drawer material? I love that it is pre-routed for the bottoms. Thanks Tom. I picked mine up at a lumber yard.

Might be able to find it online too. Hey there, I jumped for joy when I saw your post. I modified the dormer window cabinet plan you drew Pocket Hole Jig Jumia Quiz for me for drawers inside of doors and am ready to build the drawers. I noticed that you buy the glides for frameless cabinets…are you using the on cabinets with face frames? Hi Nancy!

I simply block out behind the faceframe to make the cabinet flush with the faceframe. I always do this, regardless of the type of glides I use. I prefer to have screws in the sides. I have pre-soft close blum drawer glides that came from the cabinet mfg. This one is very helpful — thanks!! Glad it will be of use. Trust me! If I have a 24 in deep base cabinet, will a 24 in glide work? I have a need for a drawer that is more than 21 in deep. Thanks for your help!

Ive installed literally thousands of these and your tutorial is spot on! Did you consider the rental idea? I live in New Braunfels, and one of these days I want to come into Waco and go to Magnolia…Absolutely am inspired by you every post…I will turn 70 next Tuesday so I am beyond doing some of these things but I can put my hard hat on and give instructions…lol…What I really want to do is redo my dining chairs and make drapes and I have ordered some of the fabrics you are using.

Gorgeous…Waiting for time to run into Interior Fabric and Cowgirls and Lace to make final decision before I pull out the stapler and machine….

Sorry to hear that turning 70 is slowing you down. We are the same age. I recently tore out the ceiling in my kitchen, refaced the I-Beams to look like more substantial beams and built three base cabinets. Right now I am building the frame for my bell shaped vent hood. When that is finished, I will be installing shiplap on my walls. I do leave electrical and plumbing to the pros but everything else is MINE!

My grandfather built a house when he was 70 and my dad reroofed HIS house when he was 75 probably not the best idea. I found this site by accident — a happy accident. Thanks for keeping it real and sharing the process. What a mountain of work, and what rewards you will reap! I do hope you can make the edges of the wood waterproof above the sink. I am almost speechless. That looks simply gorgeous. Hi Kristi, A great product for finishing butcher block counter tops is Waterlox tung oil.

It is a great product for use in areas that need protection from water. Also, I am curious to know if you had to move the cabinet a half in or so away from the wall where the door is located in order for the left most cabinet door to open completely. We did this in our guest bathroom with cheap lumber. The stain took beautifully and the pieces looks amazing. We get compliments on it all the time. Your DIY skills are much better than ours so I know it will turn out to be a stunner!

That is looking beautiful! You did a wonderful job on those corners, I am impressed! I have seen other people do similar sink cut outs and they used a large drill bit, or a small hole boring bit for the corners, which might make them easier a little less hand work, maybe. They drilled the corners, and used the resulting hole to start the jigsaw. I sanded down ALL those rounded edges by hand….. Can you show a close up view of how you attached what I assume is a shop vac to your sander?

I have to hold the shop vac hose onto the sander a I use it. I love watching this all come together. It looks great so far! You are making wonderful progress and the whole bathroom should come together soon.

Hi Kristi, I think it looks great! You have to work the steps that work for you. It is fun to watch you do your thing. Thanks for the links to the Kreig saw stuff, going to take a look at it since I would like to rip my leaves for my dining room table and make an uneven board on board farm table out of them. It can go through a doorway. So I am sure to find a place for that! Not sure I can stand this.

It was beautiful and unusual. But they had hard water, and any water left to evaporate on the counter left a white mark. It wiped off, but it was an issue. Your work is amazing.

Reading your blog is a high point of my days. You go, Girl!! That was interesting to read on how you achieved you top. Thanks for sharing. Brilliant as usual! Thanks so much. You are my DIY hero! Excellent idea. I plan on using it myself for some long counter tops in my study. Keep up the great work, I look forward to your next posting. Great description, thank you.

Will be attempting to follow your steps this weekend! What brand wood filler do you use? So sorry for the late reply! Now I use Rust-Oleum wood stain exclusively. Were you afraid they would bow or flex too much since they couldnt be fastened together as close?

You can use whatever width you want. Thanks for making these instructions.

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