Sign In Your session has timed out. Please enter the username associated with your Lee Valley account and we will send you an email to reset your password. The ease of sharpening ranks somewhere in the middle. After six months of shop time, I can say that I like all of these narex marking knife canada air, though each has quirks and limitations. Made to our specifications in Imperial sizes, the blades are accurately ground chrome-manganese steel, hardened to Rc Like its larger cousin, this tool needed significant setup.

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Fullscreen Caption Close Caption Typical bevel-edge chisel, above, has tapered side lands; Narex classic chisel has narrow side lands that are consistent from shoulder to tip. Fullscreen Caption Close Caption Bevel edged to a narrow land. Fullscreen Caption Close Caption Profile of typical bevel-edge chisel blade. Width: Choose an option. Add to Cart Sold Out. Choose an option to view item availability. Narex Classic Bevel-Edge Chisels.

Bevel edged to a narrow land. Profile of Narex classic bevel-edge chisel blade. Profile of typical bevel-edge chisel blade. This is an important difference. Larger blade angles are better for marking dados and tenons using a square because you want to deeply score both the near and far corners of your work to make it easy to carry the line around the workpiece.

A larger blade angle cuts these corner marks without you having to radically angle your wrist. I prefer the smaller-angle knives for dovetails, especially for transferring marks from the tail boards to the pin boards.

The lower blade angle allows you to exert pressure in the right place. Thin knives allow you to sneak into tight spaces between the tails to mark out the pins. This benefit comes at a high price, however. Thin knives are more difficult to sharpen because the cutting bevels are considerably smaller. The thin blade is reinforced by two brass ferrules, which make it rigid.

The middling blade angle makes it suited for both dovetail or bench work. And the tool is well-balanced, comfortable and a joy to wield.

I even like the acorn on the end of the handle. Its only drawback is that its thin blade makes it the most difficult to sharpen. The large blade angle makes it well suited for bench work; marking tenons, dados and anything else across the grain was a breeze for this tool. The ease of sharpening ranks somewhere in the middle. It and the Veritas were the easiest to sharpen because the blades of both are thick and wide with large bevels.

Unlike the other tools in this test, both Hock knives required significant setup. All the backs had to be lapped flat and polished, and the bevels had to be ground and honed. Luckily, this particular blade was heat treated well so there was little warping. This makes it ideal for sneaking into tight places, though not as well as the thinnest tool, the Blue Spruce.

Like its larger cousin, this tool needed significant setup. Annoyingly, the tip of the tool was a bit warped, which resulted in a lot of lapping. Once I got the tool working, however, it performed well. Specifically, I wish the thick back end of the knife were thinner, which would make it more comfortable for marking dovetails.

The middling blade angle allowed it to cut well in upright or down-low positions, and the thick blade made it an easy tool to sharpen though it was impossible to navigate the knife into tight tail joints.

If the handle were thinner, this would be a good knife for marking out joints. Overall, the shape of the handle is comfortable and its flats keep it from rolling off your bench. I sanded it off, took the wood to grit and applied a better finish. Also, the bead on the handle was vulnerable to damage; ours became chipped after two months of use. The blade angle makes it well suited for dovetailing, though its thickness prevented it from sneaking into the narrowest dovetails.

It is the least expensive knife and performs admirably. Overall, my hands concluded that the Blue Spruce knife was the right tool for my style of work.

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