This bowl blank has a 2" check on the corner edge and below the numbers. Pink Japle Knife Scales. Maple wood for turning knife times may vary, especially during peak periods. Bark incursions and checks may be present in some pieces. See other items More International postage and import charges paid to Pitney Bowes Inc.

Mine has been through hundreds of cycles and hasn't grenaded. So, first up, put a few holes in the lids of the mason jars, 2 holes in one and 1 in the other. After that, assemble everything as indicated by the pictures. Really, they explain a lot more than anything i can type. The 2 chamber design will prevent the resin from getting to the pump if it foams up, more on that later. You can get away with just the stabilizing chamber, but i don't recommend it.

Use as much hose as you can between the vacuum pump and the valve setup, this mitigates risk to the pump if something should go wrong. The valve setup is important, it will allow you to keep a vacuum in the chamber setup while shutting off the pump, as well as reintroduce air to the system. It also allows for control of how fast the chamber is de- and re-pressurized. Do everything you can to make the system air-tight. Caulk all joints, thread tape all pipe connections, use hose clamps to attach the hose to the barb fittings.

It shouldnt take much work to get your setup looking like mine, its just screwing things together. The only challenging part is attaching the hose to the vacuum pump, but since there are so many different pumps and ways to attach the hose its pointless for me to try to list them all here.

I replaced the flared fitting in mine with a barbed fitting and attached the hose to that, you may have to do different. Once your chamber setup is all built, lets move on to the fun stuff! Alrighty, now its time to get down to business and get the wood prepped to go in the vacuum chamber. The first thing you want to do is take your pieces of wood close to whatever the finished size you need. After all, you dont want to waste the time and materials stabilizing a 3"x4"x5" block of wood if you're going to cut it down to a 1" cube after the fact.

Im stabilizing this batch for use as knife scales, so i machine my bricks and blocks down to roughly 1. That's just what works for me. Remember, you want to make yours as small as possible, but leave a little extra in case anything warps during drying. Speaking of drying, lets talk about that! The dryer the wood is, the more the resin will penetrate and the better the final results will be.

If the wood is too wet, the stabilization process will fail , so take this part seriously. Also note, when i say moisture, its not anything that will even feel wet, what I'm talking about here is water that's actually trapped in the cells of the wood that we need to get rid of.

Now, the drying process it pretty simple, stick the wood in your toaster oven at f and leave it there for as long as possible. In my case, i left my scales cooking for about 8 hours. Yeah, maybe, but better than underkill. Thicker pieces will require longer drying times, so the thicker the piece, the longer you want to leave it in there. I recommend a minimum of 2 hours, but again, as long as possible.

Once you thing the pieces are dry enough, toss em in a zip-top freezer bag and let them cool to room temperature. Quick tip, if you see and condensation on the inside of the bag, the blanks aren't dry enough, pop em back in the heat until the bag stays clear.

Make sure your blanks are in a sealed container to cool, if you just leave them on the counter the blanks will actually absorb moisture from the air, defeating the purpose of drying them. Now, the wood im using is already pretty dry to start with, so i cut my pieces pretty close to what i wanted the final dimension to be.

If your pieces aren't quite so dry, they could warp as they dry in the oven, so for the first few batches you do i recommend leaving them fairly oversized. Wood nice and cool? Are you sure? Remember, the resin were using is heat-activated, so if the wood is still hot when you put it in, the resin will activate on the surface and prevent any more absorption, so make sure its cool.

You're sure? Wait a little long to be sure, then come back. Okay, now that the wood is sufficiently cool and dry, time to actually make with the stabilization! Here again the pictures explain a lot, so check those for more details. First things first, take the lids off both the jars, make sure they're clean and empty. Now, place the wood blanks in one of the jars.

This will be the stabilization chamber, it gets the lid with 1 hose. Once the wood blanks are in the jar, find some way to prevent them from floating. Ive found that a round cut of chicken wire does a pretty good job, just bend it so that it forces the wood down against the bottom of the jar. Place the lid on it and set aside. This will be the reservoir, and it serves 2 purposes. For one, the air space at the top of the jar will keep the pump from sucking up liquid.

The second purpose it serves is to keep the stabilizing chamber filled with resin, more on that in a minute. Make sure the lies are hooked up correctly, and the pickup hose in the reservoir reaches to the bottom of the jar. Once you have that done, time to put the spurs to it. Adjust the valves to that the valve going to open air is completely closed, and the valve going to the chambers is all the way open, then turn on your vacuum pump.

Now, just let it run until you stop seeing air bubbles come up through the resin. Keep an eye on the hose between the valves and the chambers, make sure no resin is getting sucked up. If it is, quickly open the valve going to open air to release the vacuum, don't let the pump suck up the resin. The massive foaming subsides pretty quick, after that its pretty much set and forget. Again, just let the pump run until there aren't any bubbles, this could take anywhere from 30 minutes to several hours, depending on the thickness of the blank.

Don't rush this, it takes time. Once the bubbles stop, its time to shut off the pump. Don't just flip the switch though, you'll kill your pump. Instead, close the valve leading to the chambers, then open the valve leading to open air. Once the pump is pulling air, shut it off. Now, slowly open the valve leading to the chamber.

You'll hear a big "whooosssshhhh" as air rushes back into the system, and the increase in pressure will force the resin in the reservoir into the stabilizing chamber, fully filling it up. Neat, huh?

That pressure is actually the magic to this process, now atmospheric pressure will force the resin into all the tiny little nooks and cranny in the wood that water and air used to occupy, all you have to do is wait. How long should you wait? Here again it depends, the rule of thumb is let the blanks soak for twice as long as the vacuum was running, i. Personally, i like tripling that amount of time, 2 hours vacuuming, 6 hours soak , and i always soak for at least 12 hours. Too much time cant hurt, but too little can.

You also want to make sure that no part of the blanks are exposed to air, everything should be covered in the resin. The 2 chamber design should ensure that, but it never hurts to keep an eye out. If any part of the blanks is exposed to air, start the vacuum process over.

Assuming youve let your blanks soak long enough, theyre now completely saturated with an acrylic resin, but that resin still needs to cure. To do this, you need to expose it to heat, f in this case. Here again we use the toaster oven. You can either wrap your blanks in foil and bake them, or do as i am and place them all on a wire rack.

Wrapping the blanks cuts down on the smoke generated but tends to leave excess resin dried on the surface, the wire rack will let the excess run off but can put off a bit of smoke.

Both work equally well. The key things here are time and temperature, the core of your blank HAS to reach f. Set your oven for f, pop everything in and wait a few hours. Too much time wont hurt anything, but take the blanks out too soon and theyre ruined. Kingwood Stock photo is a representation of color and grain with a smooth surface.

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Spalted Maple Stock photo is a representation of color and grain with a smooth surface. Thuya Burl Stock photo is a representation of color and grain with a smooth surface. Tulipwood Stock photo is a representation of color and grain with a smooth surface. This item will be posted through the Global Shipping Program and includes international tracking.

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