Pocket Hole Jig System (Jig System). The Kreg Jig Jr(R3) is an amazing repair jig and an exceptionally handy addition to any tool collection. Easy to use and install. Whether you're crawling under a table to make a quick repair or taking Kreg Joinery on the road.  Harbor Freight New Coupons 20% Off Coupons Free Item Coupons. Deals Latest Deals Amazon Deals Home Depot Deals User Submitted Deals. Privacy Policy | Contact Us | Support SV | About SV | SV App | SV Browser Extension. Has anyone tried the harbor freight pocket screw jig? - With a % off coupon at harbor freight, the savings over the Kreg model is worth considering. I try not to resort to HF for quality type work but I could see this being something they get right. So I thought I'd ask before taking the dive on the Kreg one. Amazing deals on this Portable Pocket Hole Jig Kit at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.  This pocket hole jig kit creates pocket holes at variable center distances for a range of material thicknesses. Hardened steel drill guides achieve maximum precision for pocket holes. This pocket hole jig kit mounts securely to your workbench or can be used as a portable unit from job to job. Variable center distances for a range of material thicknesses. Fixed toggle clamp with position adjustments. Hardened steel drill guides for maximum precision. Use as a portable unit or mount to bench. Anodized aluminum jig body.  We guarantee this product to be free from defects in materials and workmanship 90 days from the date of purchase. Limitations apply. Loading. One of the better examples of this style was the Easy Jig by 80percentarms. Then measure from the top of that shim to the bottom of the drawer above. Just contact Mr. Would love your thoughts, please comment. Advertising Enable. The name of the bait Perry's Tackle Wholesale Distributor. I used my smaller pocket hole jig to finish the pocket holes.

In order to maximize the effectiveness of the Shop-Vac chip removal, use tape to close off the top half above the jig of the Shop-Vac port as well as all the holes in and around and between the side plates.

As for the router setup, it is essentially the same as the 5D. The instructions are very detailed and included in printed form in the package; the latest version is also available in PDF form on the web site. Drilling the pilot holes was about the same as every other jig; just a lot fewer were required. Still, I strongly suggest using a drill press for this hole. After drilling the holes, remove the four screws and pry out the hole guide the Phillips screwdriver in the smaller hole works well.

The first pass was a surprise, both good and a bit annoying. There were none in the cavity except for a few in the pilot hole. This did not cure the problem, but it did reduce the scope adequately during the passes for depth gauge one.

By the time I reached the end of this depth gauge, the hole was deep enough to contain a majority of the chips, and the vacuum no longer had much effect anyway. After several passes, I noted that the two screws holding the buffer tube disk in place had backed out some.

Keep an eye on these; if they are, or work loose from the vibrations, the receiver can move in the jig, which has negative implications for the accuracy of the results. I was standing to the side of the jig to do the milling and after a few passes, I noticed that the side wall on the side next to me was tapered, so had to go back and redo those passes.

I suggest ending each pass with a complete clockwise tour around the outside of the cavity making sure the jig base plate is parallel to the sides of the jig plate, as if the base rotates, it changes the geometry of the guide system.

I fought this tendency during the entire process and even then occasionally ended up with a bump on the near wall which had to be redone. The previous time I used this jig, I was standing at the buffer tube end and did not have this problem, so I suggest NOT standing to the side during milling. When I bottomed out on depth gauge one, I would have had to change pins if I had been milling the take down lug pocket.

As it was, I could continue with depth gauge two without stopping. The marks were a bit difficult to see in limited lighting. During the depth gauge two phase of this test, the router depth stop loosened, requiring me to re-tighten it and redo some passes to even out the floor.

I suggest checking the bit and depth stop tightness right before starting and when you go from depth gauge one to depth gauge two. It would not be unwise to do a final check of these again before doing the last few passes. I was astonished to find an unexpected slot along the grip lug; on measuring the cavity, I found that it was.

Double checking the jig depth gauge, it is correct, so either the bit slipped, the router depth slipped, or I left a gap between the router base and the edge of the jig when setting the final depth. I suggest it is always a good idea to use a digital depth gauge to check the depth of each of the last few passes before completing the pass.

The cavity looked to be correct and the finish was very nice. Drilling the selector and pin holes with a hand drill was about the same as any other good jig. The completed receiver accepted the LPK and functioned flawlessly, and the upper fit nicely. If you do your part, this jig can produce top notch results with much less work than with an older technology jig, but it does offer you opportunities to screw things up.

Drilling the single pilot hole was a joy, at least relatively speaking. The instructions are very specific that you NOT use a cordless drill.

I violated that specification shamelessly, since I have a good powerful cordless drill and do not have a good corded drill, and other than possibly for this use, have no interest in getting a good corded drill. My drill worked fine for me. There is a hole on each side of the guide which aids in chip removal without sacrificing any guidance of the drill. The resulting pilot hole was dead centered in the trigger slot.

Usually using a drill press for this hole is best with any jig, but in the case of this jig, it is less necessary and more difficult to do, as the higher guide might not fit, requiring you to play tricks with the table height. Starting out, the single pilot hole is hard to find with the bit by feel; the quickest way to find it is visually; a small bright flashlight is helpful.

Once you get it centered in the hole, it cuts very smoothly. And as you get deeper in the cavity, it seems to be easier to find the pilot hole, getting harder again as you near the bottom. It does not throw chips out the top like the 5D, and with the holes and slots taped up and a shop vac attached and running, the chips are fairly well controlled.

Without the vac running, chips still are not much of a problem, except you do need to suck them out manually after each pass. It is wise to check after each pass and manually suck any remaining chips, particularly when using depth gauge two. The one point guide system has no risk of changing geometry like the two point system does, but it is still a good idea to go around the outside once you think you are done milling a pass.

That small circular movement methodology these advanced jigs require makes it easy to miss getting into the corner. The marks were a bit easier to read than the 5D, but the last few in the gauge did need more light to see. As learned with the 5D jig, I checked the tightness of the bit and the depth stop when moving from gauge one to the second gauge, and I started each of the last passes and immediately checked the depth before continuing.

As a result of paying close attention, no equipment dared to act up and the result was an excellent cavity, with a nice finish. Drilling the selector and pin holes with a hand drill was a bit more stable than with the 5D jig, although there are more holes in the side plate, which can be a bit confusing.

When drilling on the other side, I added the accessory stabilizer, which went on easily and did give me more support. But I had to chuck the small drill further out in order to give it enough length. The completed receiver accepted the LPK and functioned flawlessly. The quality of the results was neck and neck with the 5D jig, but I found the Gen 2 easier to use and with fewer ways to screw things up.

I did all the setup, but for legal reasons, the machining was done by the actual owner under my supervision, so it was not quite a true newbie experience. Since the receiver was quite hard to find in the specific color desired and extra expensive because of that, I wanted to minimize the chances of messing it up … or causing the owner annoyance. She did quite well although was nervous as all get out.

Figuring the right speed to move the router at was difficult for her. Early on, going too fast, the router jumped, and then after that, the nervousness led to slower than necessary movement for a while. I would say that someone who can follow instructions and has used a router and drill before should be able to make a good receiver without difficulty.

Without tool experience, it would be much better to have someone experienced present to explain things and nip potential mistakes in the bud. A drill press is recommended to minimize the fairly high chances of messing up the trigger slot edge. If it is likely you will be doing both models, the Gen 2 universal model is the price leader. In universality, the Gen 2 has the advantage.

Not only is multi-model capability built in, but the adjustments during assembly can compensate for more variances in receivers, and the bolt-on buffer screw support can be more easily made to handle buffer tube sockets longer than spec than can the solid end bar of the 5D. Assembly of the two jigs is roughly comparable; the 5D uses more screws and needs more tools while the Gen 2 uses less screws and one provided tool, but it does specify final adjustments not mentioned for the 5D.

That disk the 5D uses is a bit of a pain, while the tube that the Gen 2 uses is Harbor Freight Pocket Hole Jig Youtube English rather more user friendly. Setting up the router is comparable, although the Gen 2 does have a centering step which the 5D does not require.

The initial drilling of the Gen 2 is way better, only needing one hole instead of two, having more support to keep the drill perpendicular and not requiring any depth restriction unless the drill bit is extra long.

It is best to use a drill press with the 5D to drill the trigger slot pilot hole. It is unnecessary and may be difficult to use a drill press with the Gen 2, because of the height of the drill guide. Drilling the selector and pin holes was slightly easier using the Gen 2 jig, and even easier using the stabilizer block. When you get right down to it, the milling operation and drilling the pin holes are the most important things to evaluate.

And although the 5D can do a good job, it is messier than the Gen 2 and slightly more subject to error. Adding the Dewalt Shop-Vac helped but did not come close to equaling the Gen 2 built-in port. The 5D milling process is not as continuous as the Gen 2 due to having to change guide pins part way through the process. Finally, it is easier to have the cavity too narrow with the two point guide system than it is with the one point guide system.

The Gen 2 did just as good job milling, but it was less messy and provided fewer ways to screw up. Use the Comparison Results to help you decide. And the new end mill bit system has the potential to be a significant innovation.

Yeah I know…. FFL violation and all that. If I make … Read more ». With the lower cases built I made some leveling feet from strips of 2x4, tee nuts, and galvanized carriage bolts. I went with galvanized carriage bolts because the corner of my garage where the left side of this miter saw station will be floods occasionally when it rains heavily outside. I measured and placed the lower cabinets where they will be in relation to the walls and leveled them starting with the middle cabinet.

I though this process would really take a while but it was actually not a lot of work at all. Just start with the highest corner of the highest box and make everything match it. In picture 2 you can see why I didn't make my cabinets go all the way back to the wall. This gives me future access to my dust collection plumbing as well as all of the electrical on that wall.

With the cabinets level I used a straight edge to transfer their height to the wall where I mounted a strip of pine 2x2. That 2x2 also extended around the corner along the far wall. From there the top surface is mounted. I used screws through the plywood into the 2x2 and through the tops of the cabinets and into the plywood work surface.

The left section of the miter saw station is a full 8' long. The right section is a full 4' long. With that shelf resting in place I could use it's position to locate the right section of the miter saw station.

I'm not going too crazy with the dust collection. My objective is to create a draft that will draw all of the dusty air away from me and into the dust collector.

There will be a lot of space in the dust collection area for the larger sawdust to fall down. If it doesn't make it directly into the dust collection port I am totally cool with brushing the larger dust into the port once or twice per year. I've used this exact setup previously with great results. I'm using half of an old harbor freight blast gate as a dust port. To hook it up to the dust collection pipe I used one of my blast gates and some flexible hose.

I'll extend the blast gate arm at a later date. Until I do I'll just leave it open. Space was a little crammed under there so I had to use my head to lift up the panel to attach it all. Finally that panel can be secured.

I thought it was wise to only use two screws per side to hold it in place to allow for easier removal if the need to ever arose. There was a resulting gap behind the miter saw where the shelf met the back side of the cabinets. I used a couple pieces of ply to cover these areas. I cut a small notch in the left side panel to allow for Wood Pocket Hole Jig Harbor Freight Inc the cord to pass through. Because my miter saw is so large the area required for proper movement of the back arm is quite large as well.

It's actually quite a bit of dead space. To keep the air flow more centralized with the miter saw I added two wings to both sides of the saw area. The last addition to this phase is the fence board.

This ties all of the upper cabinets together and is where I will mount some T-Track for a stop block setup in phase 4.

In the first phase of this miter saw station build I constructed all of the cabinet carcases and the saw work surface. The first step in the drawer phase was to mount all 3. Technically, I used 23 pairs of slides but man did it feel like a lot more than that. Luckily installing them isn't too difficult. The easiest thing you can do is cut a few spacer blocks to easily locate all of the slides without measuring. Just use the blocks to locate the slide and secure it with the included screws.

Working my way down from the top the process is incredibly smooth. The drawer slides I am using are from Outwater Plastics. They have the best prices I've found on full extension slides. If you know of cheaper prices let us know in the comments below! And here they are all installed and extended. I extended every one just for pictures and then immediately put them back. It wouldn't be long with them sticking out until I would somehow accidentally bend one of them.

This project was a great learning experience for perfecting a technique to cut full size sheet goods on my table saw. I couldn't have done this without my super easy infeed support arms. They really make this process a lot safer and easier on me. I wanted to rip as much of the plywood along the long direction as possible. So that meant a lot of long strips made on the table saw.

The miter saw station isn't complete yet but that doesn't mean I can't use it to finish the job. Clamping a speed square to the work surface makes a great stop block for repeatable cuts.

Once complete I'll incorporate a t-track and stop block system to the left of the blade. After cutting all the pocket holes for the drawer pieces I turned my attention to the drawer bottoms. This is one area I simply could not get around ripping along the short direction of the plywood.

To make the process a little easier and safer I secured some wood to one of my I-Beam sawhorses at the same level as the table saw. This would carry the weight of the plywood and all I had to do was make sure to feed it correctly through the saw. Those measurements aren't too safe to crosscut on the table saw so I used the miter saw. With a stop block setup I can cut, flip the board, and cut again to easily crosscut to a repeatable length.

Joinery is a hot topic with woodworkers these days. I'm more of a function over fashion kinda guy and because I've never in my life had a pocket hole joint fail on me that's the route I went. Its really hard to beat the production speed of using them. Especially with my pocket hole machine. I used my smaller pocket hole jig to finish the pocket holes.

Any pocket hole cutter can be used for this. This is just standard pocket hole construction. I use the pocket holes in the front and back pieces of the drawer with the pocket holes facing the outside. That way there are no pocket holes on the inside of the drawers. The pocket holes on the front of the drawer will be covered by the drawer front and the pocket holes on the back of the drawer will only be seen if the drawer is completely removed and turned around.

Attaching the drawers to the drawer slides is super easy. I picked up this method from John Heisz. Use spacers to position the drawer exactly where you want it inside the cabinet and insert the drawer. Then pull out the drawer and drawer slides just enough to get screws in the first holes on the slides.

Continue the process until you have the entire slide attached to the drawer and remove the spacer blocks. Then another spacer can be added to the top of the first drawer and the entire process is repeated. It's quite easily actually. After a long days work of building and installing I had a very rewarding sight. Lots of drawer storage!! So exciting! The bottom right cabinet is the largest in this miter saw station and also has the least amount of drawers.

The original design was to use four shallower drawers here but I changed my mind to two deeper drawers at the last minute which was after I had ordered the drawer slides. This meant I had two extra pair of slides. Rather than let them collect dust until I found a use for them I chose to double up the slides on these drawers. So now each of these drawers can theoretically support pounds. I'm up to pounds these days and it held my weight just fine.

In the bottom left cabinet I made a pull out shelf specifically to store my planer out of the way. This is another feature I'm really glad I incorporated into the build. The third phase of this build consisted of installing the drawer fronts and adding some box shaped storage above.

I knew I wasn't going to do any cutting the day I picked up the last of the material so I went ahead and applied a few coats of water based polyurethane to the sheets that would make up the drawer fronts. It's much easier to finish the drawer fronts before they are cut. Because I designed the entire miter saw station and created layout diagrams for the plywood in SketchUp first the time spent in the shop was very productive.

There was no guess work because all of the dimensions and figuring had already been accomplished. I laid out all of my drawer fronts so that I could cut them with a continuous grain flow from drawer to drawer. I find it much easier to rip full sheets of plywood along the long direction first if possible.

Then crosscutting smaller panels on the table saw isn't as difficult. Luckily I didn't have any panels that wouldn't work on either of these saws. Perfect spacing with the drawer fronts is very easy to achieve if you use a couple shims.

Then measure from the top of that shim to the bottom of the drawer above. This measurement will be your exact drawer front height. Clamp it to the drawer with a few spring clamps if possible and secure it from the inside with some screws. You may have to use double sided tape or hot glue to temporarily hold the drawer fronts if you do not have room for the spring clamps. This was my last day of no rain in the forecast for the week so I pushed forward with all of the rip cuts required for the remainder of the build that needed to be made with my garage door open.

Before installing the shelves that will cap off the upper drawer boxes I added two horizontal braces in the miter saw area. These will prevent the top panel from sagging over time. Both top panels are slid into place and secured with a few screws here and there. Going crazy with screws isn't necessary.

You could use brad nails to secure them but I tried to use screws as much as possible in the event that one day I would be tearing this down to move it into a stand alone shop behind my house maybe when the house is paid off I was able to use the miter saw station a lot while actually building it which made me feel really glad that I finally decided to get this build behind me.

While I'm honestly most excited about the drawer storage and increased organization in the shop it's incredibly convenient to have a dedicated station for crosscutting longer stock. Here I'm cutting the left upper box storage panels to length. I could have used glue and brad nails for the upper boxes but I always prefer the mechanical connection of a screw over a nail so I went with the usual pocket holes for quick and easy construction. It was much easier to use brad nails and glue to install the back though.

It will just sit in place on the top shelf and line up flush with the front edge. A few screws will hold it in place. The larger box was a lot heavier than I thought. Luckily the work table I built it on was about 7' away from where the box needed to be. Because the box was 8' long I could set one side up at a time and slide the rest into place. This was much easier than picking up the full weight of the box. Again, a few screws to hold it in place.

I went back and forth on a few different designs for the drawer pulls. I originally wanted to make inset pulls but the bushing kit I bought for my Bosh router didn't work even though it was a universal kit made for Bosch routers.

So after some suggestions by viewers on my Facebook and Instagram page I decided to use my CNC machine to cut 23 Detroit Redwings logos and chamfer the back edges. This process took about 6 hours and was honestly pretty boring so I didn't record any of it. To properly locate the drawer pulls I used a waste piece from the CNC work and made a jig to allow me to place the pulls in the same orientation on every drawer.

To finish it off I added a few strips of red oak to cover the front edge of the plywood on the work surface and the lower edge of the upper storage boxes. These will take abuse much better than the plywood edges. The completed station has about twice as much storage as I actually need.

But that's a good thing in a shop that is continuously changing. I taped off all the edges inside the dust collection area and relocated my fire extinguisher from the back wall to the immediate left of the miter saw. I also relocated one of my driver holder blocks to the right of the miter saw. This is just a rectangular piece of pine with holes drilled in it to hold all of my common drivers I use.

I'll probably add a tape measure and pencil holder right below it. About six months ago when I originally had the notion to build a miter saw station I ordered a 12' section of right to left peel and stick measuring tape. I'm actually quite surprised I hadn't lost it since then.

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