A glaze is a thin transparent or semi-transparent layer on a painting which modifies the General Finishes Glaze Effects White Quote appearance of the underlying paint layer. Glazes can change the chroma, value, hue and texture of a surface. Glazes consist of a great amount of binding medium in relation to a very small amount of pigment. Drying time will depend on the amount and type of paint medium used in the glaze. The medium, base, or vehicle is the mixture to which the dry pigment is added. Different media can increase or decrease the rate. ALWAYS seal General Finishes Glaze Effects with 3 coats of clear topcoat, e.g. General Finishes High Performance Topcoat. Apply a total of 3+ coats of topcoat altogether. If 1 coat of topcoat is applied before Glaze Effects, add at least 2 more coats over the glaze to seal in the color. Topcoat Recommendations. Low- to High-Wear Surfaces: High Performance Topcoat (brush or spray), General Finishes Enduro Clear Poly (spray only).  MATERIALS NEEDED: General Finishes Milk Paint: Your choice of color. General Finishes Glaze Effects: Clear Base OR General Finishes Pre-Stain Conditioner Natural. SAMPLE MIXES: 1 part Milk Paint + 1 part Pre-Stain Natural [ mix] OR. Product Description. Give cabinets a distressed, shabby chic lookGlaze Effects are translucent water-based colors used to create beautiful decorative finishes such as marbling, shabby chic, burnishing and color washing. Do not be afraid to mix your own colors my friends! Unlike toner, which is applied just like clear finish, glazing involves both special materials and fairly unique handling techniques. This versatile piece has 3 deep drawers and 2 super roomy side cabinets with shelves! However, most glaze eftects are thicker than stain to allow more control and manipulation of the color, and tend to have more intense coloration, since very little glaze will be left on the surface. Once you have the hang of it, try a few other general finishes glaze effects colors journal and techniques to create even more dramatic finishes. Thank you! Most oil based effevts dry slowly enough by themselves, and may need only a bit of thinner or Penetrol to make them workable glazes.

This beauty was stripped to its natural finish, sealed and glazed using General Finishes winter white glaze effects. This little beauty has had quite the transformation.

This Faux wood finish was created by a base coat of Seagull Gray milk paint, dry brushed on Antique Walnut Gel Stain, then a white and brown glaze! I literally made this finish up by getting out all my products out, giving them a good stare for about 30 minutes, then a little trial and error. End result was a happy client! However, there are many different things you can do with glaze, and each technique demands the ability to move and deposit exactly how much glaze you want exactly where you want it.

For that reason, there are times when mixing custom glazes makes a lot of sense. Only then can you gain complete control over the lubricity, color density and drying time of the glaze.

The simplest method is to buy off-the-shelf glaze. It is formulated to dry slowly enough to give you time to blend it evenly on the surface. I was able to find pre-mixed waterbased glazes at most of the major home improvement stores, but there were very few colors available.

Just across the aisle, stacks of familiar oil based gel stains offered a huge range of color options, and most of them will also work nicely as glazes right out of the can. This translucent liquid is designed to be mixed with paint to make a custom colored glaze.

Since stores will mix paint in every color of the rainbow, you can easily make up the glaze of your dreams. Paint can also be modified to work as glaze. Most oil based paints dry slowly enough by themselves, and may need only a bit of thinner or Penetrol to make them workable glazes. They are all compatible with one another, and all thin with the same solvents. Add some mineral spirits or naphtha to thin the colorant to working consistency, about the thickness of heavy cream.

Naphtha evaporates a bit faster, while mineral spirits, also called paint thinner, gives you a slightly slower glaze. Add a small amount of boiled linseed oil if you need to extend the working time or add lubricity.

More lubricity means a more slippery glaze that is easier to manipulate and blend. Start with just a teaspoon or two per pint of glaze, and add more only if the glaze is drying too fast. Add too much oil and your glaze may take forever to dry. Start with wood that has been sealed with at least one good coat of whatever finish you choose.

With but one exception, you can glaze over any type of coating as long as it is dry. The exception is shellac; most glazes work fine on it, but asphaltum will sometimes bite into the shellac, preventing you from removing it sufficiently.

In general, a smoother, thicker finish, perhaps one built of multiple coats, will let the glaze move around more easily, giving you more control over exactly where the color stays. Your basic strategy will be to apply glaze, wipe some off, then blend and move it.

To that end you will want an open pan filled with glaze, a brush to apply the wet glaze, a dry brush to blend it, and rags or paper shop towels to both wipe the excess glaze from the wood and from your dry brush, should it get too wet while working. The first brush can be whatever you choose, but I find a very soft bristle brush is best for blending glaze evenly without brush marks.

I also keep steel wool, for oil based glaze, or nylon abrasive pads, for waterbased glaze, as a tool for highlighting, adding grain patterns and removing glaze in a more controlled manner than you can do General Finishes Glaze Effects Colors with rags.

Apply the glaze liberally with a brush, making sure it gets into all recesses, then wipe some off with a rag. Now take your clean rag and wipe off in smooth strokes, I usually start with a damp rag then finish wiping with a dry rag. Glaze can be used a number of ways, check out the difference in appearance on this sample door… the left side was painted in Millstone, Linen on the right, then we used Glaze in Van Dyke Brown … the top has glaze applied only to the details then wiped off, the bottom has glaze on the entire area then wiped.

No problem! Worst case scenario- simply add a coat of your base paint and try again! Use whatever sheen you desire and keep in mind the general rule of thumb that the glossier the surface, the more protection it has!

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