As far as turning, rough turn it green and let it dry. Of course this depends on what you are turning. So the next question is what do you want to turn? Let us know more and we can help you more.  I have been turning green wood for 20+ years and vary rarely have the bowls cracked. I first turn the blank so the walls are between 7/8 to 1 inch thick. I then microwave the rough turned blank (obviously has to fit in microwave) for between and 4 minutes (depending on the size of the blank). The larger the blank the more time you can "cook it". When it comes out of the oven, you should be able to hold it in your hands without your having to let it go. I've turned a few things green on a lathe and I expected them to to do odd things, and they warped and/or cracked. But what useful techniques are out there that this could be minimized or even controlled? I don't know if it is possible, other than letting the wood dry to a more stable moisture content before turning it. green-wood turning lathe moisture. share | improve this question |.  @BrownRedHawk No controlled environments, I have done some sealing experiments. – bowlturner♦ Mar 17 '15 at What do you do with them currently, just set them aside? I know one turner who just puts them in the loft of a shed, and another who has a "green room" where he just puts all his turnings for drying. I'm not sure if there's anything special about the "green room.". Demonstration and discussion of the wortheffort techniques for processing, roughing, and drying found green wood. We go over band saw techniques, turning. Danilo, Thank you for writing and greetings to Uruguay! If you include the pith in your turnings that is where the cracks and splits are likely to show up. To slow down the rate of moisture loss crying minimize end checking, coat the exposed ends of each board with latex paint or paint specially designed for this. I live down under in Australia and am a relatively new wood turner March and because of Covid19 am self taught. You can also finish a drying green wood for turning on bowl to a thinner-walled bowl and then enjoy the natural warping that takes place as it dries. So easy does it and the more even everything is along the way, the better. I love reading your posts and have gained drying green wood for turning on enormous amount of information on how to turn wood.

Should I wait to let it dry before putting any sealer or finish on it? I'd like to seal it up, sand the sealer and start finishing with danish oil or osmo but not sure if that will lock in the moisture and screw me in the long haul. Mike Brazeau. I have made a few small things from fresh apple wood and sanded to say then applied Watco Danish oil immediately.

It slows down the drying process nicely. I just bring them in the house. After a couple of weeks it will be dry and you can rub with some synthetic material or and wax and buff. Works very well. Beta Tester. Some people apply finished like watco right away. I have done that but just not a step I do anymore. I turn hollow forms and Natural edge bowls.

I finish all the turning and only and areas that I will not be able to sand off the lathe. Usually just areas around a foot. Abranet works well on green wood but sanding dries the wood an intesses the chance of cracking. I do almost all the sanding off the lathe after the pieces have dried. This gets the end grain wet. I then put it in a cardboard box paper bag will work well too Close the top.

Next day half open the box or bag easy with a box leave one flap. Next day open the top Then put it on a shelf for a day Then sand it and begin the application coats of finish. Last edited: Feb 5, Richard Coers. Most finishes won't stick to wet wood, or if they do, they'll blush since their is moisture under it. Definitely don't use any film finishes and absolutely don't use anything lacquer based. It's about an 8" hollow form, maybe 5" width.

So basically just a small dowel type shape sticking out the bottom of it that allows me to remount. It's finish sanded as much as it can be and honestly I can't see a reason not to part it off if I'm just going to hand sand. Good idea on the sink rinse.

Tom Hansen said:. While the general rule of thumb is one year of drying for every inch of thickness, the species you are drying, weather conditions and the time of year you begin drying can influence this significantly. No published times can adequately compensate for the huge variations in drying rates, so unless you are in a rush, plan your lumber drying carefully to allow adequate time.

Ideal moisture content for interior wood in dry, arid areas will be considerably lower than in humid areas. Consult with professional cabinet shops in your area for relevant ranges. Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop.

We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality. By Roger Holmes.

In Techniques. Product Recommendations. Pages: 1 2. All rights reserved Privacy Policy Terms of Use. Start typing and press Enter to search. My pergola wood is splitting. It was sealed with Thompson water sealer last year. How can I stop it from splitting even more. Hi Luann. It should stop on its own once the wood reaches moisture equilibrium.

For future reference, the best way to minimize cracking to seal the ends right away after the boards are cut. Applying coats of Thompson sealer to the end grain would likely help to minimize the cracking. Hi Robert. Some species crack a bit; red oak seems to be prone to it from my experience. But for the most part most species seem to hold up ok.

I have a 1 inch thick pine disc, about 2. I want to make a table top out of it. The problem is that the disc is starting to crack. It was cut about 3 weeks ago. Should I start sanding and apply varnish, or should I wait till it dries out. Any advice would be appreciated. I would suggest letting it dry first. I do a lot of woodworking, woodturning, woodcarving, and furniture making. I made a small door from oak recently from 7 boards at different widths.

I also put a batten on the top and the bottom. I fitted the door to the oak frame and hung it. But a few days after, the door started to warp. I forgot to varnish the sides. Regards, Vincent Murphy.

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