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06.03.2021Solid wood elements surround these boxes. Simple as it is, these butt-joined boxes are more than strong enough to do the job. When it comes time to mount your cabinets on a wall, you can drive screws anywhere you like through the thick back and into underlying walls studs.
Strips like these are the traditional anchoring surfaces for fastening cabinets to walls during installation. Simply fasten the back panels to the back edge of the cabinet with edges exposed.
Like I said, later on everything gets covered with solid wood anyway, so plywood edges get hidden. Both upper and lower cabinets are made full length in one piece, 8 to 10 feet long. Longer runs of cabinets can be made by installing more cabinet modules side by side.
Just cut your parts to size and join them up. However, the great thing about making your own cabinets is that you can make them any size or configuration that you want, and you can even combine the face frame across several cabinets for a much cleaner look. Take the outside wall of our kitchen, for example. To have this arrangement using commercial cabinets would require a total of four separate cabinets.
However, I only built two. So there was no need for me to attach cabinets side by side like there would be in the typical setup.
The look is so much cleaner and more consistent than having two face frames screwed together side by side. I was also able to plane the face frame flush on the outside faces of the two cabinets, which also looks so much cleaner and more finished than the typical commercial cabinet.
I made the face frame from poplar as it takes paint really well and is not too expensive. The parts were ripped from the board on the bandsaw, surfaced in the planer, and pocket holes were added to the back side of each of the rails. Then it was a matter of gluing and screwing the parts together.
The clamps hold everything in position and keep things from shifting while the screws are being driven. Once the glue in the face frame was dried, I planed the back face to make sure that the rails and stiles were all flush with each other and would therefore sit flat on the cabinet box. To attach the face frame to the cabinet box, I use only glue. The glue alone is plenty strong enough to keep the face frame firmly attached to the box.
In this case, the cabinet is small enough that I could do this glue up on top of my workbench. So to make sure that I can get clamps underneath the cabinet box, I will lay the box on the floor on its back on top of some scrap 2x4s. The 2x4s lift the cabinet box off the floor enough that the clamp heads can be slipped underneath the sides of the cabinet.
I was wondering though why you seem to favor face frame rather than frameless construction for Build Your Own Traditional Face Frame Kitchen Instagram the cabinet carcases. Is it just a personal preference, or for aesthetic or structural reasons?
Hi Sandra Thank you for all of the posts. Hope that you are feeling better after your surgery. Take it easy and let everything heal up before you go back to work. Long time viewer, first time commenter. Just curious to know how you would handle face frames for cabinets butted up against each other in a built in. Also, if you attach the face frames to each cabinet individually, I assume the frame and side of the cabinet are flush?
Thanks in advance for any help on this. Do you know what hinges will work for my issue? Thanks in advance for the help. Are you doing inset doors? Assuming that a regular thickness faceframe was going to hit the light switch, an overlay door would hit that switch. Block out behind the faceframe so the block is flush with the faceframe.
Then you can use frameless hinges that you attach to the wall of the cabinet. Once you have the face frame cabinets assembled.
Assuming all the edges are flush. How do you deal with hinges? I want to use concealed European soft close but always found I had to double up the stock on the edges to use regular inset hinges. So my question is how do you get your doors flush with concealed hinges?
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