I've been meaning to build a kiln for the past two seasons but have just gotten off my sorry ass and decided to do something about it. (Bob's thread kicked off my thinking seriously about it) First, let me say that the cheapest kiln build is one from a free freezer, as the box itself is the most expensive part of the build. I can't move a freezer around by myself and lining up help is difficult, so I built my own box on site with casters so I can roll it from shop to basement, depending on where I'm going to run it. I hope to do it in the basement as long as the smell isn&a. To make our wooden boxes, we use any wood we have on hand. The particular boxes for this project were made from wood left over from the reclaimed wall we added to the back porch makeover. Okay, let’s get to making some homemade boxes without hefty price tags, shall we?! To start, measure how tall you need the sides of the wooden box to be. Then, set your table saw to your measurement. Next, cut the wood.  The piece below is what we made the wood boxes for this time around. As soon as I saw it at the yard sale, I knew wooden boxes would make it a beautiful piece. HomeRight just released their Small Spray Shelter and I was excited to use it for this project. The piece I got at the yard sale is not big so the small spray shelter worked perfectly!. Jewelry box, keepsake box, men’s valet, photo box, gift box you name it and you can use these same methods to make a box for whatever your little hear desires. This project is sponsored by the great folks over at SuperMax Tools and I’m going to be using my SuperMax to do a lot of the stock preparation for this project. The drum sander is going to allow me to make custom sized stock without tearout in heavily figured wood. I’ll also be doing some bookmatching for the top and no, that’s not pairing up all my Dr. Seuss books.  I made the wooden jewelry box 10″ x 5″ and 3″ high. I like the ratio look on the box and this size seems to be just big enough to be substantial, but not too big. You can easily adjust the size to any dimensions you’d like and use these same methods. If your going to sand the box, I would recommend dissembling the top from the box before you try. Make sure the sides sit evenly on the base or are snug around the base, depending on your design. One tip I should like Build A Wooden Tool Box 2019 to suggest is that when cutting off the lid, after the first side has been cut, put something stiff across the cut build a wooden box meaning stick it in place with masking tape. Many of the techniques can use tool substitution, a hand drill for a drill press buiod a miter box instead of a miter saw for instance. I am new mfaning the instructable site build a wooden box meaning am currently reading many articles to ease my beginning woodshop woes.

I never took a shop class after high school, and I didn't have any relatives who were handy. Most of what I learned to do I had to figure out on my own or learn from a book. I mention this because I'm sure the shop-Nazis are going to rappel out of the clouds and tell me everything I'm doing wrong, but this is what works for me. If you have a recommendation or want to correct something, please be nice. Its better if we can all just get along.

First, some safety stuff. The safety stuff: In some sections I'm going to be using some power tools. Big scary powerful power tools. Tools that have neither self awareness or souls. The bottom part of your leg What I'm getting at here is that any power tool will gleefully chew or throw chunks of stuff through you much easier than a piece of wood, so please use all due caution to keep any of your soft bits out of the shiny moving parts.

When using any tool with spining parts such as a Table Saw or Drill, you should remove any jewellery or loose clothing that could get caught up. The only thing more embarrassing than feeding your thumb into a table saw would be to get your heart shaped BFF bracelet caught on the blade and getting sucked in up to your toenails. Then you would wind up being the "Stumpy" friend. No one wants to get on the roller coaster with the stumpy friend.

Wear eye and when appropriate breathing protection. I only had to get rust in my eye once to teach me this lesson. Some material can shoot off downright dangerous dust or particles. Plexiglass and a table saw is a good way to take a melted plastic shower, MDF and a sanding wheel will give you "brown lung" and scratch your corneas.

Yes, that has all happened to me. During this instructable I have removed some safety guards on my soulless killing machines in order to better show you the processes I'm performing. I don't recommend doing this in any way, and it's not my ordinary method of working.

The manufacturer went to a lot of trouble to mould those little bits of plastic. If it sounds like I'm trying to scare you, I am. I have had my table saw for around 10 years and the damn thing still scares the bejesus out of me every time I turn it on. I credit the fact I still have 10 fingers to the fact that I do my best to respect and fear the power of these tools and I encourage anyone doing this to develop the same caution.

Different techniques will require different tools.. I feel just as stupid writing that as most of you think I am for even mentioning it but sometimes things just have to be said. For that reason, I'll try to break down a specific tool list at the start of each technique. The items below are a comprehensive list of what I used during this project.

Many of the techniques can use tool substitution, a hand drill for a drill press or a miter box instead of a miter saw for instance. I'll also be going over the basic explanation, operation and set-up for the tools, so don't get too freaked out over thedetails just yet. Tools: Essentials: Hand drill and assorted bits Hand sander --this can either be straight sand paper and a block of wood or a power sander speed square saw Clamps few small and few large Strap clamp Or a piece of rope and a stick..

I'll explain later.. Project three needs a 4 foot 1x2. Scrap wood, or a piece or two you can sacrifice. This is a basic run down of some of the tools, just so we all know what we are talking about. When I first started building things it was fairly routine to use butter knives as screwdrivers and pipe wrenches as hammers. There is nothing wrong with this right up to the point your mother tells you that Christmas is ruined because all her silverware has scorch marks and twisted tips.

Sorry Mom. The first thing I learned in health class is that you can't properly use a tool until you know what its for. Yes, that's a vaguely dirty joke. I had to get one "tool" joke in here or I would never forgive myself. If your already familiar with using the listed tools, you can skip this section. I will say that I actually picked up a tip or two when I was researching all this though.

There are a few essentials you should have, and I'll take this chance to explain what they are and how to use them. I'll also link to far more detailed instructions as I won't pretend I have the time to be a comprehensive resource. What about cordless tools you say? Well let me divert for a little rant here. If your going to be doing work outside or need to move around a lot, the cordless tools may be a good choice, but I have a thing about batteries running out on me.

I hate it. I hate it with an unbridled passion the way cats hate water or the way my hamster hates cats. That's a whole lot. Its just a personal preference. Speed Square This is just a simple metal triangle with some markings. Where it comes in supper duper handy is that it includes a 45 and 90 degree angle. If your trying to make accurate cuts across some wood stock, this is the fastest way to make a straight line.

One edge has a lip that fits along the edge of the board, then you can use the other edges to draw either a 90 or 45 degree angle. Even if you have a miter box, you should still have one of these. There are also techniques for marking almost any angle with this tool. I won't go over them here, but I will link to it. Detailed how-to Tape Measure The venerable and time tested tape measure.

The only thing more common than a tape measure is how often people use it wrong. One thing people consistently do wrong is to measure from the end of the tape. I know this sounds like crazy talk, but using the end of tape is somewhat inaccurate if your attempting any kind of precision.

Look close at that little metal tang on the end of the tape. It moves. There is actually a reason for this: The tip of the tape is riveted in place and slides slightly; the length of the slide is the same as the thickness of the tip, to allow the user to make accurate measurements.

With a sliding tip you get the same measurement hooking the end of the tape over a piece of lumber or butting the tip into a corner. In day to day work, it's actually a pretty sloppy operation. If your framing a wall or anything on a larger scale, it won't matter. If your making a box 6' long with tight joints, it matters a lot.

I usually pull out some tape and start measuring from the 1" mark, then just subtract an inch from my final measurement. My projects have gotten a lot more precise since I started doing this. Detailed how-to Saw There are a boggling number an styles of saws. If your building a full shop you should have several types, but for the purpose of this article we just need what is commonly refered to as a Tenon saw or Back saw. These are the most commonly included versions when you purchase a miter box.

The different types of saws require different techniques to use them properly. Popular Mechanics has a great article about some of the types and their use. For this project, just get the one that looks like the picture below. Often you can get these as a combo with a miter box. I highly recommend a decent quality corded drill. Choosing the right one is often a matter of personal preference. There is a great video Here. You should also get a set of bits.

The more the better. I tend to chew them up like bubble gum. There are many types. I found this handy guide. If your on a tight budget, you can just get a standard set of twist bits. There are many types, but the "quick clamp" style have proven to be the most useful as they can generally be worked one-handed.

Clamped glue joints are substantially stronger than un-clamped joints. Always clamp if you possibly can. That should do it for now.. In fact, all three of these could be done in a living room fairly easily. This is a basic method for making a small box using just a mitre box and saw. I call it the living room method as you can usually get away with this while watching TV if you have an understanding and very attractive wife who is always right Hi honey!

It does not require any extensive equipment and can be done fairly quickly. The corners will be simple lap joints , so nothing fancy just yet.

Tools and material: ruler or measuring tape Miter box and saw or table saw Glue Clamps small wood - one 4 foot 1x4 Sand paper For this project I'm using standard 1x4 pieces of Pine from the local Home Depot.

This is the way things are. The jerks. Its like when I used to be able to get a Slim Jim as big as my arm, and now they are barely the size of toothpicks. I had ripped a strip off the boards for another project. Just go with it. The listed measurements are accurate for your project. Try to make the cuts as precise as possible. One tip for this is to measure the next board only after your done cutting the previous board. If you pre-measure all the pieces, a few of them may be shorter than anticipated due to the action of sawing.

A saw does not work quite like a steak knife. The saw actually cuts the wood by removing a thin channel of material. This is where the sawdust comes from. There is no steak dust when you cute a steak as it actually slices the meat The cutting will be easier if you clamp the piece into the miter box while you are working with it.

Trying to wrestle with the parts while your sawing them is a great way to loose a thumb. I usually measure from the 1 inch mark to make it as accurate as possible. Do NOT sand any of the edges before gluing it up. Its common for people to want to give it a fast swipe to clean off the edges and such, but what will wind up happening is that you will wreck the straight edge of the board, and you will see gaps after you glue it up.

If you have any chipped edges, just smooth it off with your finger, then glue it. Check the pictures for details if something is not clear. Take one 7 inch piece and place a thin layer of wood glue on both of the long edges. Place two more of the 7 inch boards on the glued edges to make a "U" shape. Make certain the ends line up and everything is straight. Clamp the ends loosely, just to hold everything together.

Place the last 7" board at the top without glue and apply a clamp to hold it there. This board is only there to assure that the sides are straight and that the top gap is not wider than the bottom.

Don't trust your eyes on this one. Tighten all the clamps checking the boards to make sure nothing slid around. If you have a large gluing area, its not uncommon for the pieces to move a little. You should see some glue squeezing out. If not, you either have a freakish ability to use the exact amount of glue necessary, or you didn't use enough. Let it dry. Let it dry for a good hour before touching it again. When it looks dry, remove the clamps being careful with the piece.

The joints may still be tender. Set the un-glued 7 inch board aside. Place both end caps on, being careful to line up the edges as best you can.

The closer you get it, the less you have to sand. Clamp both end caps in place and let the whole thing dry overnight. While I do have longer clamps, I wanted to show you how to do this. Take two clamps and hook them together as shown in the picture. This works great for smaller pieces where you don't need huge amounts of pressure.

Remove the clamps and admire your work. Take that last 7 inch board and check the fit inside the top.. If its too close, sand the edges until it fits easily. If you have trouble getting it out again after you fit it, just screw a small screw in the center and use it like a handle to pull it out. The hole will be covered when the rest of the top is assembled. That last 7 inch piece should fit cleanly between the lines.

Clamp tightly, make sure it does not move. It will be prone to slipping around a little. When the glue dries, un-clamp and check the fit of the lid. Your Done! Sand and paint to your pleasure. What I learned: How to cut pieces accurately. How to glue up and clamp pieces. Patience optional, but useful.. This is a method for making a small box with integrated wood hinges.

It's not as scary as it sounds. Actually, I'm terrified, but don't tell anyone. You could do this one in the living room as well, but wait till the wife is not home. The drill tends to scare the cat, and terrified cats running about the house are not the formula for marital bliss. This will not require any extensive equipment and can be done fairly quickly.

The corner joints will be simple lap joints. This time, were going to throw in a small twist. I carved out a litle bit of wood for the hinges to sit flush with the wood. You can make a lock on the box but i dind't since it was holding a gift for someone. Than just attach the hinges and congratulations you've made a beautiful box!

Nice project, thanks for sharing! I like that you made a neat little box out of humble materials and just a few basic tools. Reply 6 years ago on Introduction. Introduction: How to Make a Wooden Box.

By juul Follow. More by the author:. In this instructable i'm going to show you how I made this simple wooden box. Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It! Incredible Wooden Spirals by rschoenm in Woodworking. Telescope Setting Circles by instgct in Science.

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