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16.05.2021
Item Description Price T Cert. Hydrometer 3. Hydrometer 8. Hydrometer This lubricant lays down a 5 mil coating and remains effective until it is worn to 1 mil.
Marked off permanently in ounces and cubic centimeters. Seamless, T stainless steel. The T is in type stainless steel. T stainless steel, seamless construction. Place the filter membrane in a Sterifil holder and autoclave for up to 30 minutes at deg. The holder and stopper mounts on any standard 1 liter filter flask or manifold. The unit includes polysuphone funnel and cover, support screen, stoppers and o-ring. The Glass filter holder T is designed for vacuum filtering liquids for biological contamination.
Silicone stoppers T are designed to hold the filter holder on top a 1 liter filter flask or manifold. Manifolds T provide vacuum support for simulaneous filtration of of three test samples using filter holders with No. Supplied in 2 ml ampoules, packed 50 per box. They are self venting. Glass fiber filter T is used as a prefilter to prevent large particles from clogging membrane filters.
The Filter membrane,. The gridded surface simplifies colony counting. Other colors and pore sizes are available. Pre-sterilized plastic petri dishes with pad T are ready to accept membrane and liquid media. The T can be used with solid agar media or absorbant pad. Syringes T are designed for dispensing liquids into small containers as well as pressure filtering small volumes of liquid. The sampling valve T is easily installed in a liquid distribution line and can be kept sanitary between uses.
The design eliminates bacterial and particle build up. The value is kept sterile by injecting alcohol or hydrogen peroxide into the luer opening.. Easy to handle, the ml, sterile, disposable monitors have a 47 mm diameter membrane and pad. They are a ready-to-use filter unit designed to be placed on the base of a vacuum manifold.
Item Description Price T Monitor,47mm,0. They consist of a sampler and swab in buffer. The sampler incorporates a plastic tab supporting a filter bonded to an asborbant pad containing a dehydrated nutrient medium. The filter surface is grid-marked to permit counting of colonies. Each sampler absorbs 1 ml of sample. Each is individually wrapped. Plan achromat objectives are parfocal and parcentered at all IPD settings.
Infinity corrected optics provide field flatness, color accuracy and superb specimen definition. It has a 12 volt, 20 watt halogen illuminator with built-in reflector. Binocular 4X, 10X, 40X and X. Includes 10X eyepiece. Other models and features are available.
They are seamless with a smooth, polished finish. The hub has a set screw. They are available in T and T stainless steel. Its capacity is 5 gallons. The overall height is 24". Calibration is performed by holding the electrode in the air and adjusting the calibration knob to read The electrode is manufactured with a silver cathode and operates like a battery.
It is maintenance free and under normal conditions has a twelve month life. The standard electrode is furnished with a 5 foot cord, but other lengths are available in 5 foot increments. Please specify the length required. Simply pour the water up to 2 litres into the funnel and collect the sample from the outlet tube. The gravity fed water passes around a UV light that destroys the ozone.
Complete with electrode. See Chemicals and Reagents for buffer solutions. It has all the features of expensive laboratory units without the cost. The range is 0 to 14 pH on 0. Automatic temperature compensation quickly adjusts to temperature changes.
The unit includes meter, universal combination gel-filled pH electrode and ATC temperature sensor. It comes with a combination gel-filled pH electrode, 3 bottles of standardizing buffers 4, 7 and 10 pH and a foam-lined carrying case.
It operates on a 9V battery which is included. It displays the full range of 0 to 14 pH in. The bulb has three corrosion resistant stainless steel balls to control filling and delivery. They have a bulb in center. The energy efficient, long lasting LED lighting provides high intensity brightness for sharp contrasts.
A simple diaphram action ensures quiet pumping with separate guages for pressure and vacuum. The unit is oil-less and provides 1.
Measures 6" x 11" x 8" and weighs 18 lbs. Liquid The unit is equipped wit a thermo module for constant temperature. It is best for measuring oils and fats of high melt point, higher refractive index perfumes, organic solvents, etc. The RX Aalpha has a manual calibration capability which compensates for differences in standard liquids and measurement values by other refractometers. A wide measuring range of 0. The durable glass prism is sealed into a stainless steel sample well.
Apply sample, position presser, allow for temperature stabilization and press button for instant measurement. Choice of 16 pre-programed standard scales or 5 user-defined scales. Power supply operates on both and VAC, All models can be interfaced with a printer or computer through the instrument's RS port.
Temperature compensation range F and C. Compensated, Atago Measure brix without worrying about temperature. A built-in mechanism automatically corrects for temperature changes. Accurate brix readings in 0. Complete with battery and ready for use.
There is also the new feature to perform continuous measurements. The PAL refractometers are equipped with the following features. Weighing only gm, they can be placed in a pocket or hang them from your neck or belt. The sample stage is designed to keep sample solutions from spilling out. You can rinse off the sample by running water on the sample stage. The design allows the user to easily wipe off the sample.
The stabilized brix value is acquired after a few times of repeated measurements. Store them in the case properly to avoid damage or loss. Compensated, Atago Check brix in soft drinks: finished product, plant production, dispensing and vending machines. Case included. The bags can be written on with a waterproof felt tip marker or ball point pen before the sample is taken.
Ordinary ball point pens or felt tip markers can be used. Polished inside and outside. Type stainless steel. It is low cost but will give years and years of service. The shaking plate on this unit accommodates the piercing devices you already have in your laboratory.
No need to purchase new devices. A special table is available for labs with limited counter space. The table is 22" wide by 18" deep and 20" high. The top is formica, the legs stainless steel, and the couplings are aluminum. If you need more height, let us know your requirements.
Soft to the touch. Will not harm hands. All sizes are 25 mm long and are packed 5 to a bag. Stoppers with holes are also available. Please specify solid stopper or 1 or 2 holes. A removable wire mesh basket strainer offers a variety of retentions down to 38 microns.
They are fabricated to your size and filtering requirements. They are sanitary and incorporate quick-opening covers for easy cleaning. Air vent permits easy releasing of air bound lines. Easy open clamp fitting allows for fast sieve removal and quick cleaning.
Other mesh sieves available. Can be fitted to any filler or any line size. Available in 40, 60, 80 or mesh. Approximately 3" X 3" X 8" high. Standard with 60 mesh sieves. Protects equipment from sudden surges which can cause electrical shorts and loss of data. Protects computer and other equipment from transient surges. Helps prevent product loss due to hose slipping.
Other diameters are available. The Pyrex glass can withstand deg. F and 60 psi. Welded extension arms for resting on tanks from 14" to 33" in diameter. Retractable extension arm available for use on tanks larger than 33" in diameter. Sieves in 20, 40, 80 and mesh also available. The kit contains all the items listed below.
The kit is portable and includes reagents for 20 tests. Contains chemicals considered hazardous and requires special packing and handling. Stainless steel case with 8" long stem. Immerse stem in a minimum of 2" of liquid for correct temperature readings. The hold button freezes readings for viewing convenience. Runs for hours on 9 volt battery not included. Accuracy is 0. Supplied with one general purpose K-type probe which is suitable for liquid immersion.
Readings are updated every second. Almost unbreakable plastic-and-stainless-steel construction no glass or mercury makes it safe. These wide-range units are supplied with an adjustable Teflon tm washer-holder designed to support and suspend the thermometer at any depth in oven access ports.
They are designed for all ovens and incubators. These thermometers are serially numbered with NIST traceable certification enclosed. Serially numbered with NIST traceable certification enclosed.
Aluminum case with safety clip. Minimum setting 1 second, maximum 60 minutes, by minutes and seconds, with built in buzzer. Two separate receptacles are provided for automatic switching of external instruments. This intelligence carries out the parameterization of the method for you. The new Titrator TitroLine offers even more features than it's predecessor and is even more convenient to use.
Special training is not needed to obtain fast, precise results. The touch keypad interface with high visibility providing full color display of titration curves and first derivative curve. All relevant reagent data is securely stored in the intelligent buret module i. It includes three USB and two RS ports for expansion, Storage of up to 50 user methods Wireless sensor recognition automatically recognizes Schott electrodes elimination measurement and calibration errors.
The set includes hand chuck, base, pointer for 10 and 16 oz, pointer for 1 and 2 liter. A variety of tests to meet every need. Removal Test — Designed to measure the torque required to open a threaded closure.
Incremental Test — Designed to measure the torque required to open a threaded closure then reapply it to a position that will prevent leakage. Bridge Test — Designed to measure the torque required to both open a threaded closure and then break the bridges of the tamper evident band. Reverse Ratchet Test — Designed to measure the torque required to rotate a child-resistant cap in its free state. Strip Test — Designed to simply see what the required torque specification would be to drive the cap in a clockwise direction in order to break the band and remove the cap.
General Specifications. Testing can be destructive or non-destructive, depending on the cap and bottle design. The resolution of all models is 0. Operating Environment. Model No. Requires optional cap chuck and bottle clamping fixture. Please supply sample for evaluation and quotation. Other ranges available - please inquire. It can be used with either molded, metal screw caps or lug caps on glass, PET or metal containers, The bottle is held in place with chuck jaws.
The cap is removed either by hand or with a suitable chuck. The pointer will show the torque in inch lbs. Clear From Basket. Code Keyword. Our Company. Key Personnel. Contact Us. Followup from the Pelican Staff: The plug you placed in the system may have caused pressure to rise in the engine, causing a leak. Comments: Forgot to mention the ticking is gone post tank replacement.
Looks like it was leaking for some time and just got worse and worse that one night very fast until the tank fully cracked. March 8, Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the note. Comments: Thank you.
Almost sounding like it's choking? I had the white puff of smoke one time and then notice the idle jumping. Since the water tank was replaced and the pressure was tested properly, the idle is resolved.
Related you think? Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, the separator can cause that issue. Comments: boxster recently brought car in for routine fluid changes etc and tires. When left shop first her ticking below passenger seat maybe slightly behind it. Drove above 5 miles highway speed. Editing parkway idle was jumping from almost stall up to or so. Car has always idled at clean. Within two blocks clanking noise.
At stop sign car shutdown and then there was a lack of power to the dash for a minute or two before the power came back and I started the car. Pulled over and appears to be water antifreeze everywhere on the street mechanic later confirmed tank cracked Bench Clamps For Dog Holes Gmbh or burst. Trying to see if they are all related or unrelated. Tank has. Even changed and car ran idle for hours and some street driving.
Idle issue hasn't resurfaced but I'm concerned. Any idea? March 5, Followup from the Pelican Staff: The ticking may not be related, unless what you heard was air in the coolant lines, however that is unlikely.
I would pressure test the cooling system and confirm all leaks are fixed. Then try to pinpoint source of tick. Mike L. Comments: Update on the 97 Boxster cutting out while idling. Only does it when hot. Would this still leave the AOS as the suspect?
December 29, Followup from the Pelican Staff: No. That sounds more like a faulty sensor, possible crankshaft. Comments: My 97 Boxster, 52K, idles smooth rpm. Two years ago occasionally stalled after idling a minute or so at a traffic lite.
Lately same symptoms and CEL returns. Disconnected the battery hoping for a relearn. CEL gone but I suspect will be back. Slight vacuum at oil cap. With cap off idles smooth rpm. Don't have a diagnostic tool and nearest mechanic miles away, but before I go do you have any insights?
December 26, Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be a faulty oil separator. I would assume so with the fault codes and symptoms you provided. Comments: This is a great forum - gained much valuable info replacing my water pump and alternator on my Boxster with 92k on the clock. Now trying to replace my AOS and getting no where with access through the fender well and from above. So "should I stay or should I go" to repair shop. Read and re read the article:1 what is size of the AOS mounting bolds - looks like 10 mm to me but can't get a firm grip with socket all made more difficult by the one hand access though the fender well, 2 two wiring bundles make getting the connection on the passenger side "impossible" - any suggestions.
November 3, Followup from the Pelican Staff: You can try to remove some of the intake manifold plenum to gain better access. I have no obvious oil leak looking at the street under my parked car, but there is oil crud on the hoses attached to the AOS. I have also noticed that my oiil pressure starts out at on the gage, but steadily lowers until it is less than 1 at idle, and around when driving.
Can the AOS cause this pressure problem? October 17, Jose Rodriguez. Comments: Hi, My Cayman S is having some sort of vibration at exactly rpm , my motor mounts and trans mounts are fine, I know my AOS is bad already ordered it, could it be that the two are related because the oil covered the spark plugs???
Or is it something worse maybe a damaged flywheel, No vibration after those rpms and it happens when in drive and neutral, Also I noticed sometimes when accelerating nomally it surges just a little bit, feels like i pressed the gas even more.
Any help would be major for me, Thanks Nick! September 30, Followup from the Pelican Staff: If oil was on the spark plugs, the coil boots may have been damaged.
Is the check engine light on or flashing when the problem is present? Sounds like an engine misfire. I double checked the AOS hose connections and everything is dry. Can the repair and leak somehow be related? September 8, Followup from the Pelican Staff: Unless there is a running issue as well, probably unrelated.
Comments: Thanks for the feedback re my Vacuum question, please see this diagram. I think the last guy under the hood may have taken all 4 "sealing bands" part 10 off the car and not replaced in the same location.
I have sealed off the vacuum pipe hole with a blank plug similar to part 20 and reset CEL. There was not a parts number list with the diagram so I am wondering why part 10 is shown twice but the rhs band does not have a hole.
Possibly its me being too detailed August 25, Followup from the Pelican Staff: part 10 is shown twice because each side of the plenum needs that sealing ring. Comments: What would you deem to be "significant" oil residue inside the hose yellow arrow. I found a little oil enough to coat the end of my finger - new AOS required?
August 24, Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would consider significant oil that runs out or is pooled. Oil inside the hose is quite common.
If it looks excessive, it could be a sign of a bad AOS. Comments: Puffed a big cloud of smoke on a really tight corner. Let the car idle for about min. Smoke stopped. Nick pelicanparts - are there any concrete articles on how to install the version with vent hose and 2 bolts recommended? See some people are cutting the aos to make it fit etc..
August 22, Followup from the Pelican Staff: Here is a good thread. Comments: Hi again, band and hose moulding shown in picture. Is it possible that there should not be a vent line attached to this? It was the rhside sealing bandlooking from rearon a UK 3. Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for marking it.
It does look like a vacuum line should be there. Look for a hard plastic line with a nipple end. Use the emission tag under the hood to identify possible routing scenarios. Test drive was good and the car pulled strong but code P popped up. I didn't have this code before and was wondering if I could have accidentally caused this. I'm unable to find any loose wires or hoses.
Where exactly is bank 1 camshaft solenoid? Thanks in advance. August 21, Followup from the Pelican Staff: Most likely unrelated. The solenoid is mounted in the valve cover. Double check the wiring is not misrouted. Comments: Well Advice on the rubber joint would be appreciated. Followup from the Pelican Staff: The lines come with the sealing o-rings preinstalled. Comments: Pic for my question, the band and "hole" are in bottom right.
Followup from the Pelican Staff: I can't tell what in the photo you want me to look at. Can you add an arrow or circle item? Mine did not have any and I was not aware they should be fitted when I did the swap. Do you guys run the car with them in? I also cleaned out the connector tubes to the intake manifolds I saw that one of the wide connecting "bands" had a moulding hole that could receive a vacuum line I didnt push a screwdriver through to check as I guessed it was blanked off at the factory and didn't want a problem!?
Do you know if the S would have had a vacuum line into the band? The car runs well but the CEL is still on. I guess I will have to go back in to look again but would appreciate suggestions before I do!!
If there is a plugged port from the factory, leave it plugged. Comments: can the AOS cause the car to misfire. Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes.
Comments: Hi, I have a Boxster 86k miles, recently I have noticed that the engine temperature is creeping up from a steady 81 Celsius when idle or in traffic which it has always been since I've bought the car 2 years ago up to mid 90's before the fans kick in and cool it down.
When I drive the air cools the temperature down to degrees again. It has never done this before and I was wondering what might be causing this now? Coolant is topped up and not leaking visibly. However I have noticed that one of the air intake vents is very hot drivers side compared to the other one if that helps.
Any suggestions would be grand! July 19, Followup from the Pelican Staff: The gauge or sensor could be off. The engine may be doing exactly what is always has been, but with someone not measuring or displaying correctly. I would manually check the temp and see if it matches the gauge. You'll need a cap you can insert a thermometer through to test with a sealed system.
July 9, Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you can't see it, remove the components above it. Comments: Greetings Pelican Staff I have a Boxster about 90K miles and while attempting to change the spark plugs noticed a lot of oil in the tube which holds the plugs bellows?. If not, can you advise? Thanks again, A. May 11, Followup from the Pelican Staff: More likely the valve cover is leaking.
I would replace the gaskets. Give our parts specialists a call at Comments: The reference to figure 1 in penultimate paragraph should be to figure 2. There is no yellow arrow - or any other arrow - in figure 1. April 29, Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the info. I will have the article updated. Comments: Hello Nick, can you tell me if the Air Filter Housing can be removed without removing the intake manifold?
I am trying to replace the Vent Line Connector, can you provide some guidance on the best way to access this part? March 7, Followup from the Pelican Staff: On most models yes. You should be able to get it out. Comments: Hi, I just got my CS manual. I drove it about 4 miles I get a massive cloud of whitish blue smoke followed by a burning oil smell.
No check egngine light, no codes, nothing Then next day I changed the AOS. I also cleaned all the oil out of the plenum, and throttle body. There was lots in there. Upon test driving everything was fine, and seemed like no more smoking or smelling burnt oil. It eventually stooped, and I drove a little more, and went again around a turn to the left and POOF another massive cloud of smoke.
I come home remove the plenum and look in at everything and a lot of oil laying in there. Any ideas what is going on? Could there possibly be another issue? March 6, Monitor the oil level to confirm it is or isn't dropping. Comments: Hello Nick, I am replacing the Air Oil Separator, upper and lower vent lines on a Boxter, you mentioned snaking the lower vent line, can you provide details on how that was done?
What point did you start passenger, driver or center, don't want to reinvent the wheel. Thanks, Ruben. February 18, Use the string to feed it back under the intake. Andrew Calgary. Durametric analyzer showed various mixture and misfiring faults but nothing about AOS. Access is very difficult with the engine in the car. Lower access best from behind rt.
When removing AOS from above, inlet bellows from right head ripped. Fortunately replacement AOS from Porsche includes new bellows. This tie tip should be noted in initial instructions and next edition of Projects. Replacement AOS requires 1" longer pipe to intake manifold. Thanks for the useful article and reader tip. February 6, Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for sharing your installation process and experience.
These type of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community. Comments: Hello, I have a boxster k miles. In the past couple weeks I noticed some white smoke and an odd smell from starting it in the morning, it is not nearly as bad as the videos i have seen and after like 5 seconds it goes away. My car also has Code PO and is taking up quite a bit of coolant max to min in 7 days.
I also have the problem where sometimes when I turn it on the car stalls itself or wont turn on at all. This problem always fixes itself and has never stalled after or during driving. November 19, Followup from the Pelican Staff: White smoke is likely coolant. If the system will not hold pressure and there are no external leaks the head gasket may be faulty.
Comments: I did the test of removing the tube between the throttle body and AOS, blocking off both ends, when I started the car oil poured outfrom somewhere around the AOS! I am guessing this is not supposed to happen? August 27, I would try to pinpoint the source of the oil leak. Check if is the AOS, a line of an engine seal. Comments: Okay, well, I was miles from home, nowhere near a garage to fix my car, and did not relish paying for such a long tow.
So I disconnected the vacuum line to the intake and blocked it tight, loosely blocked the aos side so nothing could get in yet pressure could get out, and drove it home. I never had the big plume of smoke so I figured maybe not too much oil had gotten past the aos. The car ran better than ever all the way home.
I did keep an eye on the oil level and it never changed , nor did any blow out the aos. I guess we'll see if any damage occurred. Got the aos changed out in about an hour, reading all the posts here helped a lot. I found undoing e side fitting last allowed much better access to get that fitting off.
Lubing the seal on the bottom of the new aos was mandatory. The zip tie trick on the lower bellows clamp was brilliant and worked perfectly!
I found the upper hose was broken and patched that up so I can drive the car until the new one arrives. Probably a good idea to just order one with e new aos. Not much money and definitely good insurance. Car now runs and sounds better than ever! August 16, Comments: Can I drive my boxster with the oil separator disconnected and the hoses blocked? August 12, The tube in question was the one below the bellows that fits intothe engine block bellows approx 35mm diameter.
In the end I froze themetallic tube for an hour then gently tapped it back in from above. There was no lip inside theengine block hole, so it was a slow careful process to avoid going too far and keeping it 'squaure'.
Thanks to forum for inspiration to cool part and for tip to use a standard sscrew clamp. Carnow running normally. Vacuum on filler tube in correct range. August 3, Followup from the Bench Clamps Home Depot Kit Pelican Staff: That is the tube I assumed you were talking about. Glad you got it worked out and thanks a ton for the follow up. Very helpful info. Comments: The article says "There have been many updates to the unit over the years.
Do I have to replace the lower hose no matter which part I use? How can I make sure it's not going to fail again? Followup from the Pelican Staff: Always check for the latest part number. I always replace the lower hose, to be safe.
Comments: I have a Boxster S with 34K miles on it. It had 6K miles when I bought it in It has sometimes blown a big puff of smoke on startup since I got it. I took it to the dealer for something else but mentioned this smoke.
They told me it was normal for this model. For some time it seemed to do it less but recently it's doing it about every other time I start it and there's more smoke. I checked the oil filler cap and it doesn't seem to be too hard to remove, but the engine runs rough with it off. Is the AOS bad? How can I verify if it's the problem? Also, I read somewhere that there is a newer, better version of the AOS for my car.
Should I replace it with the original part number or is there a better part? Only way to know for sure is to check crankcase vacuum. After replacing it I had no problems until I did another hard left hand turn, white smoke everywhere but eventually cleared up and I have not replaced it, that was about 1, miles ago.
Is there any way to prevent this? Can I always expect this when I hang a hard turn at least a left hand hard turn or is it something that may or may not happen again?
I like to drive my car hard when the opportunity presents itself. Thank you, Greg Caldwell. July 28, Followup from the Pelican Staff: This is a common issue. You may want to try motorsport aos parts. Comments: Hi, on removing the AOS from my Boxster S the lower bellows pulled away with a short metal tube still attached.
After 2 hours of struggling with the clamps a bit of over-zealous tugging got it out of the car. Do you know if this metal tube is a push fit into the engine case - I don't want to damage it and worried it could leak if not installed correctly.
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Can you share a photo? It may be the tube that presses into the engine.
Comments: I'm having problems seating that final 'O' ring. Any tips? The engine is warm, not sure a hair dryer is going to make any difference. Followup from the Pelican Staff: What lube are you using on the o-ring?
A small amount of 3M silicone paste usually works best. You advise me please what I continue, thank you very much. June 2, Followup from the Pelican Staff: Did you clean the oil out after the replacement?
If not, start there. Comments: Here's some notes for a Boxster as the process is completely different and a lot easier!
No need to access the underside of the car, all work is carried out from the top. Here's some notes from my manual: Fig. Remove oil mist separator by unscrewing two Torx screws M6 x 20 and loosening the spring band clamp Pull oil mist separator from the cylinder head and pull off the hose.
Replace O-ring during installation. See Fig. I've also attached a photo from my manual, if this is not allowed then please remove it. The notes above should help someone anyway. May 4, The current model has a different style of 0-ring on the bottom fitting that goes into the right side of the crankcase.
It is wider than the original and when I try to seat it the ring folds up rather than sliding into the hole. Have tried silicone and dish soap and thoroughly cleaned the hole. I note above that "Dave" on june 29, had same problem. Any other suggestions? May 2, Followup from the Pelican Staff: I've found that heating the crankcase with a blow dryer can help get the o-ring in.
It is necessary to install the AOS all the way in because if you don't it may crack when you bolt it down Don't ask me how I know that!! You're definitely on the right track with the silicone, also pay close attention to the angles, you need to get the nipple with the o-ring at the perfect angle to get it all the way in.
If you still have issues you can put the AOS in the freezer for minutes to make the o-ring more rigid, but be careful not to tear it when installing. Peter G. Comments: Hello, I just installed a "raptor v" centrifugal supercharger only a conservative 4 psi on a 2.
My ECU will be flashed soon new mapping, but I drove approximately 50 miles and did not past rpm. The next day I had a white smoked cold start bad running at idle and find out there is oil in my in IPD intake plenum. Is the AOS ok, but is this due the pressure gain? Or is this just coincidence? April 23, Followup from the Pelican Staff: A quick check of the crankcase vacuum on cold start will tell you. The vacuum reading measured at the oil cap on cold start should be Inches of water, and once the idle settles it should sit at 5 inches of water precisely.
It should never read above the 7 inches even for a second when the engine first starts. If the vacuum reading is in spec, the AOS is good. Also check the engine oil level. Too much oil could cause these problems as well. Adding pressure to the intake can not be too good for the AOS, but a new one will probably last longer than the old one did!
Purchased all my parts here and once again received top notch service. This article was extremely helpful but I have to tell you this project is not for the faint of heart or impatient type. Took me six hours to complete. Word of advice: buy a clamp pilers. April 22, Comments: I solved the problem. A scavenger oil pump was fited in the wrong position! April 20, Good catch. Thanks for the follow up.
Comments: Definetively there is oil going from the AOS to the intake. I clean it and the oil apears again. I replaced the AOS but the same problem. Smoke sometimes at startups and at high rpm. Can any other component of the car cause the oil going to the intake?
What must I check? The Oil is between max and min, Even if a drive slowly then oil goes to the intake. April 14, Followup from the Pelican Staff: Other than oil lever and breather issues no. How long as it been since you replaced the part? This was not happening when I first had the car. I do not drive the car aggressively on the 30 mild trips. Lasts just few seconds. It's my daily driver, about 5 miles twice a day and this never happens after these short drives.
Car runs great, no smoking during driving ever, oil and coolant levels stable, no excessive vacuum at oil filler cap, no whining. Is this likely normal or the AOS starting to fail or what? April 11, Keep an eye on oil level, if it drops, I would have crankcase pressure checked. Comments: I had some smoke huge clouds driving hard and at start ups on a boxster S. After that, I drove for about Km miles and no more smoke clouds.
This weekend on a hard left turn a huge smoke cloud apers. Any sugestion? Followup from the Pelican Staff: Some cars require the use of a motorsport AOS when driven in extreme driving conditions. Double check to make sure the oil level is between minimum and maximum not a hair above MAX. I have also seen where some oil pools in the intake manifold tuning flap and comes out after driving the car hard.
Could just be a matter of getting the remaining oil out of the intake and exhaust system over time and with extreme exhaust temperatures. Comments: Hi we got some 02 sensors for a Porsche 07 from you guys put them in and went for a drive and we still have no go and black smoke coming out the back we did all 4 o2 sensors as there where fault codes for all I am thinking maf sensor or may be air-oil separator as when you remove oil cap it starts two idle high and load sucking noise from intake when you put cap back on no noise I might be wrong all so the eng light come back on and said bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1 I cant remember the code but I can go for a drive and get them again any help would be nice thanks.
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Why did you rep[lace the sensors in the first place? What were the fault codes and symptoms? Comments: forget to state its a Porsche Boxster having the evaporation problem every time the check engine comes on, and it is being placed on the computer to be cleares it gives a evap code , and have to be cleared by the computer, it is really beginning to be an issue for my brains now can you say and or suggest what might be the issue here.
January 26, Followup from the Pelican Staff: The evap code will direct you to the part of the evap system with the fault. Start there. Comments: I am having an evap problem every time this happens i have to have it cleared by the machine the computer to have the check engine light to be cleared can you say what it likely to be the issue here.
Followup from the Pelican Staff: A fault in the evaporative emission system. Comments: I guess everyone has their little trick on getting that dang AOS out. I really struggled with that middle connector. I just couldn't get a grip on it. The bottom clamp was fairly easy with a set of baby Vice Grips. I went thru the wheel well for that one.
Once the AOS was free and pulled up, then I could get a grip on that middle connector. I almost gave up twice! It's out! There was a bit of oil in the top tube. Not good. Also, the lower tube not the bellows was full of crap. I tried my best to clean that out with my pinkie. I usually didn't see a lot of smoke, but one day The second time it did it, I decided to change the AOS out.
Thanks for your advice! January 23, Comments: Hi, Iam new user for Boxster , I have aproblem the idle of the car, the Rpm is jumping to 2 and down to 1 , without any pressing in the fuel pedal, I replaced the Air Mess sensor, and cleaned the throttle, but the problem is still, the mechanic man cleaned the injectors, after that all the car has changed, became very bad, and very slow, it is dead car, I dont know what can do more, please need your help thanks Raed.
January 13, Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would start by checking fuel trim. This will help you identify if there is a vacuum leak. A vacuum leak could make it hard for the DME to control engine speed. Comments: Hi Nick, Now I really need help.
My Boxster 2. When coming to standstill and activate the air conditioner or turn the steering wheel to max car will die. What now? November 28, Followup from the Pelican Staff: What year is your vehicle? I assume it has cable throttle, which would lead me to believe the issue is with the idle air control motor.
Comments: I have a 06 Boxster S. I developed a squealing bearing noise the other night while driving. It varied in loudness when accelerating. I also had a check engine lamp come on before I got home. There were 2 codes; P and P system too lean at idle, both banks It got quite loud. Mine seem to get quieter when accelerating from a stop. After listening around the pulleys and hearing hit loader from around where the engine and trans meet, I just knew it was a IMS bearing failure.
I was starting to freak out a little. An extremely helpful, Jake Raby of Flat 6 Innovations talked to me about my situation. He was spot on in his questions. He told me to go ahead and do the AOS first. And he was right!! I am very relieved. November 25, Followup from the Pelican Staff: Jake is great, knows his stuff.
Thanks for the additional info. Comments: Hear a high-pitched squeal once the engine got warm, no white smoke. I notice a dropped off in engine performance. Thanks Pelican. Great Information. November 18, Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. George cpg. Comments: Hello Nick! I have replace air-oil separator before 1 month and the car is running good, But now i have again oil in intake manifold and the oil it's coming from the separator.
Sometimes the rpm its jumping and the engine is not running good November 9, Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check if the O-ring on the base of the separator is damaged. Comments: Hi, I have a Boxter that I drive very sparingly, it only has 13k miles in 7 years! Lately I noticed there is a high pitched whining sound coming from the engine when driving or idling. The noise goes up and down with the engine speed. Sounds like metal-on-metal, like a bearing is going bad.
But the car runs good otherwise, no lights on, no overheating etc. I wanted some expert opinions before I go see the dealer and he charges me 5k! November 8, Followup from the Pelican Staff: Remove the drive belt and inspect the pulleys and components. You could have a bad bearing or component driven by the belt. Comments: It's definite oil coming out the tail pipe i didn't mean to say white smoke but it is blue oil smoke.
October 28, Followup from the Pelican Staff: Might be left over oi. Could be in the exhaust. That is if the breather parts are all OK. Would the IMS make it smoke?
My next step will be to drop the 3. The IMS would not cause smoking, as far as I have seen. You may be pulling old cuck into the new parts each time. It may take a few attempts at flushing it all out. No signs of any smoke etc I took the car out for a proper run and hit about 5k rpm in second gear I didn't run hard it blew the hugest cloud of white smoke out the back. Drove home and goggled to find various threads about the AOS. Why the smoking?
Why Misfire? Any ideas what this could be, I'm not convinced it is the AOS but maybe something else in the system that doesn't like the high rpm's and 'pops' allowing oil to get where it shouldn't be. Any advice much appreciated! October 25, Followup from the Pelican Staff: Unless you have a large amount of oil residue causing the smoking, the white smoke is likely coolant.
Especially with the misfire. Comments: I have an 02 Boxster and just in the process of completing an engine out and rebuilt in, and have been looking for a an article that will point me in the right direction so that I don't spend alot of time looking for a couple of connection questions.
October 12, The oil cooler, heat exchanger line should connect to a small hose that Ts off a larger hose. I am having a hell of a time getting the air intake tube back onto the throttle body. Would you have any suggestions on how to get this tube back on.
I must of spent at least 1 hour trying with no luck. September 18, Followup from the Pelican Staff: Be sure the clamp is backed off, then coat the inside of the duct with dish soap. It should slide on. Comments: I own a boxster that has 54, miles I have owned for 4 years and noticed a little smike at start up since i owned it I paid the car off last month and had my first real issue I replaced my coolant overflow bottle a week ago and after I did I had a cel I changed all my plugs all that i removed looked great one cracked coil.
Then I removed my mass air flow sensor and cleaned it I removed the aos in about 20 mins thanks to your article andics Could I have damaged my rings? September 4, Followup from the Pelican Staff: You may have filled the exhaust.
Give it some time to burn off. The engine should be OK. It was fine for about a week. However what I am experiencing now is that suddenly the white smoke is back after driving it for about 15 minutes and also the engine cuts out as soon as I take my foot off the accelerator and I have to restart.
When I remove the oil cap removed Bench Clamps For Sale 2021 easily, the engine starts running normally and does not cut out, but I hear a lot of rumbling noise coming from the oil intake. I have removed the P-pipe and I can feel a bit of oil very little, but please note that the car has been standing for around 12 hours. Any ideas please? Kind Regards, Francois. September 1, Followup from the Pelican Staff: You may have a faulty crankcase breather.
Comments: I have a Boxster S. When I was driving down the expressway today it was making a high-pitched whine like a belt was about ready to throw esp at low rpms but my gauges showed in the normal range and no check engine and engine seemed maybe a little rough but not bad.
When I got to my house I noticed a burning smell and figured it was a belt. When I went to start the car back up again after a bit a ton of darkish white smoke was exiting the tail pipe.
At first I thought oh no, a blown head gasket or a cracked head but again, no temperature issues and it seemed to calm down a bit after running at idle but was still running rough.
I came here and found this article. I don't have a pressure gauge handy but I did try to remove the oil cap and couldn't. I shut the car off, then removed it and started it back up.
It ran like garbage at idle and almost shut off. If I put my hand over the oil filler pipe it was sucking my palm in so hard I still have a pretty good indentation in my palm 15 minutes later and it definitely took a little effort to pull my hand away.
Given what I'm reading here it sounds like this is almost definitely the AOS. I can go pick up a gauge tomorrow to test but I'm honestly just thinking about ordering the part and replacing it. Anyone feel like this is a pretty safe bet? July 30, The gauge is the best way, be prepared to replace it.
Comments: Hi Nick, thanks. In your reply you mention having a spare around in case the lower red o-ring that goes into the engine is damaged from the AOS being seated incorrectly July 21, Could you let me know which part this is so that I can order it? Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't have part numbers handy, our parts specialists can help with that.
Give our parts specialists a call at - Nick at Pelican Parts. Comments: Hello, recently out of nowhere, I was driving my '98 Came to a parking lot for about 10 minutes and shut the car off.
After those 10 minutes, I started the car, and the engine rev's between rpm every 2 seconds. Even when I'm driving, the car opens the throttle on it's own and speeds up. Would replacing this fix this problem, or should I look into other things. I don't want to mess with my car until I know I can fix it. I would start by checking the engine for vacuum leaks. If none are found, the AOS may be it. The car is a Boxster S.
In the picture I have attached, you can see that there is a red o-ring visible from the outside of the installed AOS. I don't remember the old part having an outer o-ring. Could this be the issue?? All the other hoses appear to be seated correctly. Any direction you can provide would be greatly appreciated! July 21, Followup from the Pelican Staff: The O-ring is not seated correctly. I would remove the valve, then lubricate the O-ring with dish soap and reinstall it.
Have a new one on hand in the case it is damaged. Comments: I have a 99 Porsche Boxster that is mixing water and oil. The car is overheating and the mixture is exiting the water tank in the trunk area. I had the air oil separator replaced, but the mechanic was unable to flush the system supposedly because he couldn't get enough suction due to the clogging.
I don't know if this is fixable or if I should just sell the car for parts. I really know very little about cars so any help is greatly appreciated.
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