Bowl Sander - Episode 22 просмотров 22 тыс. просмотров.  Turn A Wood Bowl. • тыс. просмотров 3 месяца назад. Текущее видео.  Diy Wooden Lathe 목공선반만들기(핸드드릴). You need a sanding pad. As you can see there are a number of different designs and they range in size from 1" to 3". Some pads are made so that you can remove the shaft and thread in your shaft, so your shaft needs to have approx. 3/4" of 1/ TPI on one end. If your pads have a shaft that is not removable, you will need to make a short coupling to join the two shafts.  I use 90° for Spindle sanders and angles like 60° and 45° for bowl sanders. If you start off with your handle stock "x"x5" you can clamp it in a drill press vise and drill it very easily. Drill the hole approx. 1 1/4 deep, then mark your center and mount it in the lathe and shape it so it fits your hand. Remember not to take off to much material where the hole was drilled. Sanderson's Wooden Bowls is a husband and wife team, Sam   Sanderson's Wooden Bowls is always a fun place to visit! Not only do you get to visit our showroom for that special gift but you also get to go to the barn and see all of our baby goats. Master Bowl Sander Kit Includes: 1 ea. With the lathe off, sand with the grain more about this in a quotee just in these trouble areas. I sanded the outside of the bowl with a foam padded cylinder. Which approach is wooden bowl sanders quotes depends on the application. Router Bits. For the Reinforced Velcro ball you have to be more finicky, as the thickness of Wooden Bowl Sanders 2021 the Velcro hook layer will throw the wooden bowl sanders quotes off.

Because they are made of mesh, they can be pulled off the velcro pad and instantly become free of any dust or build up. The Mirka brand sanding disks perform very well and last much longer. The mesh pads also sand fantastically on wet green wood.

Discovering that sandpaper needs to flow with the grain was one of those ah-ha moments while learning woodworking that sticks with me. I still marvel at this simple wood-grain property. Break the rule, and the scratch marks will show. If the sandpaper cuts against the grain of the wood, marks from the sandpaper will be visible.

However, turning the sanding direction 90 degrees makes the paper move in the same direction of the wood grain, and everything looks great. When I started turning bowls, it took me awhile to learn to determine which direction to make supported cuts with the bowl gouge.

But what about bowl sanding directions compared to grain direction? I like to turn side-grain bowls. If you look down on a side-grain turned wood bowl, there are two locations that are end grain and two positions 90 degrees away that are both side grain. Flat boards are easy; bowls are very different. One theory for sanding, the purist theory, is sand by hand.

Take the time and manually work through all the grits and create a beautiful final finish. Yes, that is possible, but hold on, there are other ways. My childhood experiences attempting to accomplish anything with abrasive-free sandpaper perhaps taints my view on hand sanding.

I have zero desire to turn a beautiful wood bowl then spend the rest of the day, or several more days, hand sanding. On the other end of the spectrum are turners that drop the gouge and grab the power sander all without turning off the lathe.

They push through the grits like shifting gears in a high-speed race to the finish. While this approach, at least the speed part, appeals a bit more to me, the results are somewhat lacking. Recall that grain direction discussion above.

When all sanding is done with the lathe turning, the sander is cutting against the grain half the time. Against the grain, sanding leaves scratch marks no matter what the final sanding grit. An attempt to blend speed with quality is my approach to using my bowl sanding tools to obtain the best results for me. Rarely will I hand sand a bowl. I still want to get the sanding over with as soon as possible and get to the next bowl blank.

Examine the bowl surface for any trouble areas: tool marks, gouges, or a nub or divot in the center bottom. If the center bottom does have a nub or divot, use specific bowl bottom techniques to fix the area before you start sanding.

Depending on the extent of any trouble areas, start with a coarse sanding disk, perhaps 80 grit. With the lathe off, sand with the grain more about this in a minute just in these trouble areas. With the trouble areas fixed, move up to a finer grit sanding disk. Turn the lathe at a slower speed, around rpm, begin sanding the entire bowl surface.

Sand from rim to center and after a short time, stop the lathe and address the areas where the rotating sanding cut against the grain. The locations to inspect are usually the end grain and transition areas between the side and end grain. After finding the newly created scratch marks in the end grain areas, with the lathe off, sand with the grain to remove these marks.

I then move up to the next finest grit sandpaper, once the surface looks smooth and free of scratches. With the new sandpaper attached, I will return to step three and repeat the steps three, four and five. Once you become aware of these trouble areas, you will instinctively know where to find them. Potentially, anywhere the sanding disk cuts across the wood grain will produce scratch marks. Take a look at the graphic below.

While the bowl was spinning, the side grain areas were in line with the side of the sanding disk. The red and yellow marked areas are what needs addressing with the lathe off. These trouble spots just need a little more attention before moving on to the next sanding grit. The idea of power sanding with a spinning disk with-the-grain might seem odd at first. However, turning with the grain is very achievable.

It does take a bit of practice. At no point should the entire circular sanding disk engage the wood bowl surface. If it does, the sanding pad grips the wood and vibrates wildly to free itself.

Instead, the best sanding action is on the side of the sanding disk. Turning my wrist slightly angles the sanding pad and utilizes the right edge of the pad only. Using this right side of the pad, which turns in one direction, we can sand with-the-grain. Simply think of the right side of the sanding pad as being linear and line it up with the grain as you sand.

Keep the pad moving without stopping in one area. A long pause can remove too much material and leave a mark. Also, let the sanding disk do the work.

You should not be pressing hard on the disk. If you find yourself pressing to make the disk sand, it might be time to replace the sanding disk. Turning and twisting your wrist will position the sanding pad side in various locations to better line up with any wood grain flow. In step four described above, I typically work from the outer rim around the bowl several times sanding the grain until I reach the center.

The active lathe sanding only takes a minute or so. The better your turning skills get, the less sanding you will do. I used to start at 80 and go to , , , and then Now, most of the time I only sand , and grit. Three grits reduce the sanding time even further. With the lathe spinning, like in step three, do not cross the center line during power sanding.

Stopping at the center may seem strange at first, but crossing the center line equals double sanding. The area sanded right before reaching the center point is the same area on the other side of the center point. If you cross the center and sand on the other side, a trough or shallow valley will begin to form around the bowl bottom center.

The purpose of progressing through various sanding grits is to remove the scratches and marks from the previous sandpaper Wooden Bowl Sanders Quiz grit. The sandpaper grits need to progress in a way that is most efficient time-wise but also does the job of removing the previous marks. Each sandpaper grit is fifty-percent finer than the previous grit. An example of this progression is 80, , , or depending on manufacturer , , , and so on. Depending on how smooth your surface is, you may begin at or I usually start at and proceed up to That process is only four changes of the sanding pad and does not take much time.

Sanding smoother than closes the wood cell pores and makes it difficult for the oil finish to penetrate. Yes, you can sand green wood. High-quality sanding pads work best. If a wood is sopping wet, I will let it turn on the lathe at a slow speed for ten or fifteen minutes. Pausing a bit after turning the surface usually allows enough evaporation to make sanding much more manageable.

Green wood can be nasty to sandpaper. The wet fibers combined with the tree resins can quickly gum up regular sandpaper rendering it useless. They will cut green wood, just not as long as the Mirka brand sanding pads.

Mirka sanding pads, made of a mesh material, are easy to clean off, usually just pulling them off the velcro foam pad is enough. A quick shack off and they go back on ready to continue. The downside of the Mirka pads is that mesh material will grab the irregular surface of a natural edge bowl and tear. The Hurricane Blue sanding pads being a flat and even paper material do not grab rough edges often and do fine on drier woods.

So there are several trade-offs between performance and expense when it comes to sanding disks. For me, I find blending the features of two different types of pads works best. These are the wood bowl sanding tools and finishing techniques I use in my bowl making process.

And here is my Recommended Sanding Equipment. Please leave a comment below and let me know how you sand and what bowl sanding tools you use when finishing your bowls. Do you have a recommendation on the optimum RPM to use on the drill used to spin the sanding discs. I recently purchased an inexpensive electric drill specifically for sanding bowls. To load a Velcro only Foam Ball Sander, put the center of the abrasive on the top of the ball and press down the leaves of the abrasive one by one.

If you are using an overlapping pattern you may have to tuck the last leaf under the first one. Put the center of the abrasive on the top of the ball making sure it is centered well enough that all the leaves will overlap the Velcro covered washer. Press down the leaves one by one making sure the tips are pressed down on the Velcro covered washer.

To load a Mechanical Foam Ball Sander, first back off the nut and washer. Place the center of the abrasive on the top of the ball and hold it in place with one hand. Wind a rubber band around the middle of the ball to keep the abrasive in place [ Fig33 ]. Now add another rubber band closer to the washer to bend the leaves inward [ Fig34 ].

You can tug the leaves snug at this point. Drop the washer into place and tighten the nut to hold the abrasive in place [ Fig35 ]. Even if it looks a little loose it will probably work just fine. After winding one rubber band around a Mechanical Foam Ball Sander and abrasive. After winding the second rubber band on the Mechanical Foam Ball Sander.

After locking the abrasive in place with an abrasive covered washer and nut. You can use a small Foam Ball Sander to sand the inside of a vessel. You can also let the vessel dry and remount it on the lathe.

Turning the lathe on at a very slow speed will make up for any wood movement while drying. You can use the back third of the Foam Ball Sander to sand under the lip of the vessel [as in Fig36 ]. Try to avoid straight on contact with the nose of the ball as much as possible except for the very bottom, as this will make the Foam Ball Sander unstable in the same fashion as a foam backed disc is all the time.

Sanding under the lip of a vessel with the back third of a Foam Ball Sander. Sanding down the side of vessel with the side of a Foam Ball Sander. If so, sorry about that. Subjectively the Foam Ball Sander feels much nicer than a disc when sanding a bowl on the lathe.

When sanding the outside of a bowl it helps to have the bowl turning in reverse to maximize the speed of the abrasive relative to the wood [ Fig39 ]. Avoid contacting the very nose of the ball. Sanding the outside of a bowl with the Foam Ball Sander.

The bowl is turning in reverse. Use the side of the ball as much as possible when sanding the inside of the bowl [Fig40]. Have the lathe turning forwards. Angle the ball when sanding the bottom to avoid contacting the very nose of the ball [ Fig41 ]. You can stop the lathe and angle the ball to sand with the grain on the bottom of the bowl after each grit.

Sanding the inside of a bowl with the Foam Ball Sander. The bowl is turning forward. Sanding the bottom of a bowl with the Foam Ball Sander.

Note that the ball has been angled to contact the side or front quadrant of the ball, not nose dead on. Use the side of the ball to sand the edge of a bowl. If the lathe is turning forward, sand at the front edge of the bowl [ Fig42 ]. Sanding the edge of a bowl with the Foam Ball Sander. If the bowl is turning forward then sand on the front edge. You can also stop the lathe to do spot sanding of defects.

Spot sanding a defect on the inside of a bowl with the Foam Ball Sander. Since the Foam Ball Sander is so stable in use I can hold the drill in one hand and the bowl in other rather than lock the spindle.

If you reverse turn a bowl using a tailstock center for support and leave a small nub which is then cut or broken off, the Foam Ball Sander will almost instantly erase all the evidence. You can use the Foam Ball Sander to sand the inside of a bowl off the lathe that has been finish turned while green and dried.

But sometimes you need to hurry—maybe a thank you bowl for donated wood from someone with delayed gratification problems. In my basement a finish turned from green bowl will dry in a week. Weigh the bowl, then repeat until no weight change is seen. You can mount the Foam Ball Sander in a drill chuck in your lathe [ Fig 44 ] if you use a draw bar.

You could consider mounting the Foam Ball Sander on your drill press if you can rig up dust collection. Sanding the inside of a bowl that was finish turned green and dried in a microwave. This is a an early version of a Foam Ball Sander. You could also use a collet chuck or a drill chuck with a draw bar to hold the Foam Ball Sander. Sanding the inside of the bowl in Fig 44 by hand holding.

Perhaps the best way would be to clamp the bowl in a padded v-block. The bowl in Fig44 and Fig45 after finishing. I sanded the outside of the bowl with a foam padded cylinder. Visual Materials List.

Underneath the rest of the items is a pack of craft foam. He welcomes comments, questions, and suggestions via email at David DavidReedSmith.

Past and present articles are available on his web site: www. Disc sanders are inherently unstable, as a slight change in contact area leads to a big change in the direction of the force you have to counteract. The Foam Ball Sander is much more forgiving. Pinnacle - Cryogenic Bowl Turning Set. This new bowl sander reduces problems associated with sanding internal curves.

The tool worked well while it lasted, but the shaft of the sander wore out after maybe 15 bowls. I went back to Woodcraft to inquire if I was doing something wrong, and was told that it "just wears out. Not planning to purchase another one, but instead will look for another solution. Fast and efficient sanding on bowls that make turning more enjoyable. The shaft wore out in less than hours of actual running time I have had the tool for several months and used it regularly.

Not worth the money - but a better made one like the Sorby model. I bought this sander for my husband for Christmas. He absolutely loves it. He said that he doesn't burn his fingers now when he sands the inside of the bowls he turns! He can't wait to get the 3" sander too. This is a repurchase, the first one I purchased didn't last too long.

The shaft wore away and got full of grouves. The product has a bearing only on one end of the shaft. If it had a bearing on each end it would last a very long time. It would be great if I could purchase only the shaft and velcro foam end as that is what wore out. The handle and pivot adjustment screw are still fine.

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