Turning a large bowl on a lathe tends to waste a lot of wood. When you factor in the cost of some of the more exotic woods, their price and limited sizes can quickly become prohibitive for larger bowls. With this project, a simple 20″ x 5″ x 1″ piece of wood is cut in half, and then cut into a series of sloped 45 degree rings on a bandsaw, and then glued together to make a handsome 10″ bowl blank to be turned on the lathe.  This made each bowl blank half 10″ long, 5″ wide, and 1″ thick. The thickness of the board will determine the spacing of the rings and also the number of layers required to build up the height of the bowl. 1″ thick seems ideal, though thicknesses greater or less than this could be used as well. Bowl blanks are one of our more popular blanks, you are able to turn a variety of different shapes and finishes for a truly unique creation.  Lathe Accessories.  Each wood has a different texture and pattern and will produce different results. Contact us if you require assistance in choosing the perfect Bowl Blank for your project. We can advise on how to work the type of wood you choose. All of our Bowl Blanks can be finished with various oils, waxes, and coloured dyes, in order to create a fantastic finishing effect – however, please make sure that the product you intend to apply is suitable for the type of wood that you are using! For any further queries, don’t hesitate to get in touch. When you learn to make a wood bowl it is one of the most enjoyable creative processes I know. However, to get started we need to know the woodturning procedures and techniques for turning wood bowls. We will make a wood bowl with a mortise chuck connection on the bottom.  Most lathes have a headstock spindle lock. Go ahead and lock the headstock and remove the bowl blank by firmly gripping and rotating towards you to remove the bowl. Tools needed for the green wood bowl blank making processes include See Recommended Green Wood Equipment Page for details. Walnut 53 Items Wopd Larson has been turning bowls for forty years. Thanks for sharing and Happy Turning! Do I get two bowls out of that or one?

Skip to main content. Related: wood lathe turning tools wood lathe turning chisels large wood turning bowl blanks wood lathe chuck wood lathe accessories. Include description. Wood Type. Maple 38 Items Walnut 53 Items Cherry 11 Items Olive 3 Items 3. Ebony 11 Items Rosewood 17 Items Mahogany 15 Items Basswood 14 Items Bowl Blanks Items Pen Blanks 5 Items 5.

Not Specified 1 Items 1. New Items Please provide a valid price range. Buying Format. All Listings Accepts Offers Auction Buy It Now Item Location. US Only. This sharpening machine from Oregon Products returns chainsaw blades to almost brand new, out-of-the-box condition. Fine blades with more teeth will bind up more easily and potentially overheat causing the likelihood of breaking. The model of bandsaw I use, linked above, also has a foot brake, which I like.

It gives me the peace of mind to not worry about the free rotating wheels and blade after the saw has been turned off. The bandsaw wheels have so much momentum they rotate for over a minute after stopping the machine, but the foot brake stops them quickly. To make the cylinder cutting process much more manageable, take a little time and scrap cardboard to cut out circle templates. Make circles with a compass, in even inch increments, for the sizes of bowls you plan to create.

I made a set of sizes ranging from five to 18 inches in diameter. After one time too many shuffling and tripping over these templates, I fabricated a simple angled shelf to hold them in place and keep them handy. A strip of elastic cord running through the center keeps them all in place while allowing access from the side. An awl is tapped through the template center into the green wood bowl blank and used to hold the template in place when cutting on the bandsaw.

One of the first live demos I watched was a natural edged bowl. The bowl was side-grain on the lathe, like many bowls, and it turned out fantastic. Afterward, I went up to the demonstrator and asked that question. He looked at me like I had a third eye growing out of my forehead. Feeling a bit silly for asking the question, I started to question his answer more.

And sure enough, that was the case for this guy, too. Bowls are usually turned from side grain, with the wood grain running across the bowl walls, perpendicular to the Wood Bowl Blanks For Lathe Times horizon. However, bowls can also be turned from end grain, where the grain runs straight across and parallel to the lathe bed. And guess what? The majority of the bowls I turn are side grain bowls and that is what I usually make, but not always.

Branches and logs less than eight inches in diameter are great for making small bowls. The best way to process these smaller logs or branches is to cut them into usable lengths. If they are not turned soon, cut them about six inches longer than the diameter.

For example, if the branch is five inches in diameter, cut segments 11 inches long. Later, when you are ready to turn these, any checks or cracks on the ends can be trimmed off leaving a clear, usable piece of wood in the middle.

Be careful with smaller wood pieces while using the chainsaw. Because the smaller branches are relatively lighter, the chainsaw tends to grab and throw them. Making a simple log splitting rack from two by fours is a great idea.

This cutting rack will more securely hold the wood in place, save your back from bending over, and prevent the chainsaw from hitting the ground and quickly dulling the blade. Once the smaller pieces are cut to the length, you may decide to split them in half or leave them whole. Again, this is very dependent on the type of wood, how evenly the bowl walls are turned, and what is done to control the speed of drying.

Rarely will I take a piece of small Wood Bowl Blanks For Lathe Escape wood less than six to eight inches and round it Wood Bowl Blanks For Lathe Vessel off at the bandsaw. Logs over eight inches in diameter make great bowls and need a bit more attention in the green wood bowl blank making process. Because I turn side grain, I optimize logs by getting two blanks from each cut green wood bowl blank log, once they are split in half.

Because we want to try to reduce as much cracking as possible, one of the best things to do is split the log in half after cutting it to the length. If the green wood bowl blank will not be turned soon, add at least six inches longer than the diameter, like the previous example.

Splitting a log in half is best done with the chainsaw. A simple wood cutting rack will also be very beneficial for this process. Laying the log on its side, locate the pith on both ends sometimes it can shift quite a bit within a short distance.

Visualize an imaginary line connecting the two ends and begin cutting through the bark. Long clean shavings will be produced as the chainsaw tears the wood from the log. Once complete, you will have two green wood bowl blank halves with a great deal of internal tension being released from the log, reducing future cracks.

At this point in the green wood bowl blank making process, a decision needs to be made. If the wood is to be turned soon, I will now proceed to the bandsaw to further remove waste material. With the flat side of the green wood bowl blank down, and always DOWN, I will prepare the blank for cutting. Never cut unsupported material; the flat side of the green wood bowl blank half-cylinder log has proper support, the curved bark side does NOT have support.

The flat side works great. And in case you may be wondering why the wood needs to be supported, it is due to the incredible downward force of the bandsaw.

If the log were pushed through on the wobbly curved bark side of the log, it could easily catch, twist, bind and break the blade—not to mention the dramatic effect it would have on the wood and possibly the person holding the wood.

With the bandsaw off and the log lying flat side down on the bandsaw table, I select a cardboard circle template that best fits the log. After looking at the green bowl blank from different positions, place the circle on the log and tap the awl in the template center with a hammer to hold the template in place.

Use all necessary safety precautions especially safety glasses and turn the bandsaw on. Once up to speed, feed the log into the blade, working the blade close to the edge of the circle temple. Attempt to keep the awl in this same location and slowly rotate and feed the log through the blade.

Once all the way around, the bowl blank is complete and ready for the lathe. Unlike smaller logs or branches, large logs offer some additional challenges, but many more opportunities. With more massive logs, it seems natural to want to make huge bowls. While this is possible, it usually makes more sense to cut multiple areas from the wood creating numerous opportunities for various turned pieces. Just like all other wood pieces, the pith can be problematic.

The pith does not have to be removed, but in most Wood Bowl Blanks For Lathe 90 cases, it is best left out. Start by looking at the end of a large log. Large flat slabs can be dissected from these larger logs and easily turned cylindrical on the bandsaw, as described above. Platters and natural edge bowls can be created from the outer portions of the log.

Smaller bowls can be made from inner side sections. Cutting these pieces out of a larger log makes for greater control of grain patterns and angles and also helps further reduce internal pressures that may crack the wood. While there may be more chainsaw work and labor in freeing this green wood bowl blanks, the results will most likely be one of a kind. Make the bottom cut a straight, smooth ninety degrees across the bottom of the log. The trimmed crotch can be cut in half with the chainsaw just as previously detailed with the full-sized log.

And a circle template can be positioned to cover the most area before trimming it cylindrical on the bandsaw. As moisture leaves a green wood bowl blank, and the wood dries unevenly, the potential for cracks increases. The sooner the blanks are turned, the better. In some cases, the entire log can be sealed. I use this product on all my end-grain blanks, and it works very well.

Keeping the blanks in the ideal location for your particular climate is also essential. Typically, direct sunlight and breezy conditions are not desirable. Covering the blanks with a tarp can help. A humidifier might also help slow the drying of green wood bowl blanks in extremely dry climates. If you have an opportunity to make several blanks from one source of wood, experiment and see what works best over time. Leave a whole log and a split log intact, seal a split log with Anchorseal, make a couple of cylindrical blanks and leave one, seal another and bag a third.

For a complete listing of all equipment mentioned in this article go to the Recommended Green Wood Bowl Blank Equipment page. Making green wood bowl blanks is the beginning of the creative bowl making process and helps foster a deeply satisfying sense of accomplishment.

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