I'm going to try clamping for a WEEK! These methods have never failed me. Choose Display Mode Original Dark. Easy to imagine building stuff that will last for generations to come. For normal use it shoulder be ok, like a workbench.

Other folks here will swear on a stack of Bibles it does though so who knows. Alan Carruth. At this point it's all opinion, although one has to respect the opinions of folks with a lot of experience, of course. Tim McKnight has done a couple of different experiments to look at properties of various glues, and the Guitarmaker article was one of them. I'm never entirely sure of how his measurements relate to the sound of guitars.

That article looked at hardness, but it's not entirely obvious to me that that's important, or, if it is, whether we want a 'hard' glue, or a 'soft' one, or one that more closely matches the hardness of wood.

It's very difficult making 'identical' guitars, even using the same glue on both. I don't think you could say much based on a pair.

Now, if you could make a whole lot of guitars of the same design, using wood with known properties, you might be able to say something from a statistical analysis. I have to agree totally with Alan here. Often people that think they hear a difference is actual a inference. I am often asked if I use HHG. The guitars sound great , isn't that all that matters? I will agree that I do like the ability of this glue to adhere to itself.

For now I think it is too hard to tell scientifically what the tonal effects are. Those of us that build all have an opinion. To me the joinery is more Titebond Hide Glue Guitar Order important than what is holding it together.

Like Alan said, it's all opinion. For what it's worth I just plain enjoy working with HHG. For the past years I've also been using HHG for constructing new guitars and prefer Titebond Liquid Hide Glue Guitar Repair Inc it in every way to the other glues except for the convenience factor although I couldn't even begin to tell you if there's some difference in the tone of the guitars.

At the film thicknesses we're talking about I'm not convinced it really matters much anyway. Use what you like and buy whatever guitar sounds good to you.

Cheers, David www. A related question; I just followed a "Build-thead" on another forum, where a luthier had thee students building their own guitars. Titebond for the bridge. This was in Sweden and the white glue in question was local to this market, but I am quite sure it is something similar to Elmers glue. My feeling is that this type o glue is less brittle when settled.

Any comments on this from the forums luthiers would be appreciated. The question I have is relative to the ease of repair. Other than the need for glue pots, does hide glue offer any advantage or disadvantages for repairs?

One slight disadvantage with hot hide glue is that the parts being glued need to be warmed first. Martin, back in the day, would put the bridges and fret boards on top of the old steam heat radiators before gluing. This extends clamp time and makes for a better joint. I don't use a glue pot as I'm not building anymore and all of my early building was with titebond.

I make up a batch and store it in the fridge and spoon out what I need for the job. It's dated and if more than weeks old I make a new batch. All neck re-sets, bridge re-glues, fret board re-glues, and most crack work get hot hide glue White glue, poly-vinyl acetate iirc, is equivalent to bubble gum: it doesn't hold well, but you can't get it loose either. It 'cold creeps' almost without limit when subjected to shear loads.

I once repaired a fiddle that had the bass bar put in with PVA glue. The top was flat on the bassbar side, with no arch at all, but the bar itself was still glued down at both ends. I had a heck of a time getting some arch back into that poor thing. I have also seen guitar tops that showed a line of unfinished top wood behind the bridge, and a ridge of finish in front, owing to the bridge creeping toward the neck under the string tension.

Titebond and it's ilk also cold creep to some degree, but not nearly as much as white glue. I've noticed that since I started gluing braces down with HHG the tops on my guitars are more stable. They don't belly as much behind the bridge, or dish in front as much.

I suspect that HHG does have a lower damping factor than Titebond or white glue, and surmise that this is related to the cold creep issue.

Suspicion is one thing, and data is another, of course. Buck49 wrote: My feeling is that this type o glue is less brittle when settled.

Interesting article on Titebond vs Hide glue I'll have to remember to not put my guitar in the oven at degrees. How long did Frank Ford let the glue cure before the tests? It has been noted several times in different posts that hide glue sets up almost immediately where Titebond may take several months to cure. In the back of a car at degrees has been known to make short work of Titebond joinery. That can actually happen quite easily, though most of us have been around long enough to know to avoid it.

I leave HHG in the clamps for at least 2 hours, usually twice that, and don't put such a joint under tension for 24 hours plus. Titebond, with a good joint, can be trusted to hold on typical density woods not Ebony and the like after an hour in the clamps! As far as it "curing", I'd argue that it doesn't. It seems to remain plastic for as long as I've known of it. HHG gets crystaline after a few days in my shop.

If Titebond Hide Glue Home Depot Youtube ingested do not induce vomiting. Seek medical attention if eye irritation or gastric distress occurs. For additional information, refer to Safety Data Sheet. Log in Sign up. Cart 0 Check Out. Add to Cart. Cleanup Damp cloth while glue is wet. Scrape off and sand dried excess.

Limitations Titebond Genuine Hide Glue is not intended for exterior use or where moisture is likely. Not for structural or load bearing applications. Freezing may not affect the function of the product but may cause it to thicken. Agitation should restore product to original form.

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