Do you want to become an insider in the AR/VR industry? Check out my own AR/VR Education Platform with regularly updated AR/VR Courses Private Discord. Two blade guide screws prevent blade shifting. Its Shoulder Plane Blade Angle Question compact mm long by 50mm wide ductile cast iron body can take hard knocks and the adjustable nosepiece does not extend past the body. It weighs g(/4lb) and includes a lapped mm thick by Simplified Plane Physics in Unity3D/C#. 2 stars. 2 forks.  - Simplified-Plane-Physics-Unity. Simplified Plane Physics in Unity3D/C#. Plane setup. The Plane consists of an engine and four airfoils (the two wings and the horizontal and vertical stabilizers). the plane's center of gravity is at (0, 0, 0). the left wing is at (-wingX, 0, 0). (That is, its mass is modeled as a point mass at that location, and its lift force is modeled as a point force at that location.  Angle of attack (AOA). An airfoil's attack vector is defined as followed: The left wing's attack vector is (0, sin(leftWingInclination), -cos(leftWingInclination)). About half the width and weight of the Large Shoulder Plane, the medium size is well suited for lighter work. Now we can cut the extra material away. You get a removable long and short nose piece which is used to convert the shoulder plane into a chisel plane. Before the advent of power tools, tenons were hand-sawn, and their shoulders almost always required some cleanup to achieve a tight-fitting joint. Adjust the mouth opening by turning the screw head shoulder plane blade angle unity the very front of the tool with a screwdriver.

An Eclipse-style honing guide works well to ensure that the cutting edge remains square to the sides of the blade when sharpening. The next item of concern is the blade. Most importantly, its beveled end needs to be dead square to the sides of the plane body. If the end of the blade is out of square, it can be corrected during the sharpening process.

I usually sharpen thin blades simply by honing them with waterstones through grit. To cut properly, a shoulder plane blade must project the right amount from the side of the body as well as from the bottom of the sole.

While common sense might indicate that the side of the blade should be set flush to the side of the plane body, cutting geometry dictates otherwise. As shown in. In order to cut a square-sided shoulder, the side of the blade must project by about.

Therefore, if both sides of a shoulder plane are to be used without readjustment, the blade should be about. Unfortunately, the blades on many older planes have been ground down to match the body width. And, surprisingly, the blades on many new planes come the same way. This shortcoming can be corrected by adjusting the blade to project from whichever side is being used as a reference for a particular job. To make the adjustment, lay the plane on its side spanning a couple pieces of paper on a flat surface.

Then push the blade down with your fingernail, and tighten the blade clamping mechanism Photo B. The downside of this approach is that the blade must be shifted to the other side when you need to use the opposite side of the plane as a reference. To trim a tenon cheek, use a fine cut and a steady hand, resting as much of the sole as possible on the tenon before beginning the cut. To set the blade projection from the sole, use the blade depth adjustment screw.

When hogging out a rabbet or dado, you can set it for as heavy a cut as possible without suffering clogging or blade chatter. The mouth opening, which is locked in place by the toe-locking screw, should be adjusted to suit the depth of cut. As with a smoothing plane, close the mouth as much as possible to minimize tear-out without clogging the opening. Simply clear the throat manually when the occasion arises. Before the advent of power tools, tenons were hand-sawn, and their shoulders almost always required some cleanup to achieve a tight-fitting joint.

When laying out tenons, I use a marking knife to lay out the shoulders. I then cut them on the tablesaw a hair shy of the knife line. After sawing the cheeks, I place my workpiece on a bench hook, butting the tenon shoulder against the bench hook fence to prevent tear-out at the end of the cut.

A couple of light passes with the shoulder plane is all it takes to shave perfectly to the knife line, as shown in Photo C. Because there is little frame of reference, you have to take care to cut parallel to the tenon cheek to prevent tapering it. With your plane adjusted for a very light pass, start the cut with the toe firmly registered on the tenon surface Photo D. Then carefully push it forward while keeping it level with the surface.

If the tenon is longer than the width of the plane, start at the shoulder and take overlapping passes until you reach the end of the tenon. When trimming cheeks, always take very light passes, frequently checking the fit of the tenon in the mortise to avoid removing too much material.

While at the bench hook with plane in hand, I like to put a small chamfer on the tenon ends, as shown in Photo E. The chamfer eases assembly and helps to prevent pushing all the glue to the bottom of the mortise during glue-up. Another ideal use for a shoulder plane is fine-tuning machine-made rabbets, dadoes, and grooves. To widen a joint or create a new one , you need a way to guide the plane to your cutline. To cut a rabbet, I first lay out the joint lines with a knife or marking gauge.

A knifed shoulder line helps prevent cross-grain tear-out. I then clamp a stout straightedge flush to the scribed shoulder line, and plane to my depth line, as shown in Photo F. To prevent exit tear-out, clamp a piece of scrap to the workpiece at the trailing end of the cut. You can also correct mismatched rabbets with a shoulder plane by removing the toe and employing the tool as a chisel plane.

After flushing up the corner Photo G , the toe can be reinstalled and the rabbet faired, using the plane in the conventional fashion. To ensure an even depth of cut, scribe depth lines on both sides of the board and check the depth frequently while planing to prevent overcutting or undercutting. If you have ever used or even held a traditional shoulder plane, you will appreciate how this plane comes to hand.

The unique lever cap with a pivoting knob lets you adjust the plane to fit your hand and preferred holding style. The concave knob rests in the web of your hand, giving you a secure grip without the need of a vise-like pressure.

The through-hole in the body adds to grip security but has to be experienced to be understood. Set screws along the side let you accurately position the blade and require no adjustment when replacing the blade after sharpening. Product Added To WishList. QTY: 0. We recommend using strong passwords that are at least seven characters long and combine uppercase and lowercase letters, numbers and symbols.

An Error has occured, please try again. Your session has timed out. Please sign in again. Sorry, your username or password is incorrect. Please check your spelling and try again. Please enter the username associated with your Lee Valley account and we will send you an email to reset your password. Featuring the classic shoulder plane narrow body with a slightly proud blade that ensures that no ridges or sharp corners are left on the workpiece.

Cr40 rated stress-relieved ductile steel is used for the body of the plane which has been machined flat and of course, machined square. The planes cutting blade is Mn65 tool steel hardened to Rc, which basically means that the blade is super tough and ready for hard work.

A new feature added to this classic design is the addition of an adjustable toe, this is used to control the throat opening and reduce the chances of tear out when working. With this being a medium sized shoulder plane you expect it to pack a bit of weight, coming in at 2. Size-wise the No. This shoulder plane is at the lower end of the price range when it comes to good quality, good performing shoulder planes.

Made from cast iron and featuring a 2 part sole, throat adjustment is possible via the internal set screw with Iron adjustment achieved via the knurled thumb screw. Removing the toe section reveals an option of being able to use the plane as a chisel plane which is a nice handy feature to incorporate. Weighing 1. This large size shoulder plane is known as the number The number 93 from WoodRiver is based on the Edward Preston and Sons plane designs of a classic woodworking tool making age.

Featuring vintage looks this shoulder plane has the narrow body with slightly proud cutting blade that ensures a smooth finished edge without leaving ridges or lips on the worked surface. Modern additional upgrades like the adjustable toe that is used to control the throat opening which in turn helps to reduce the chances of tear-out when woodworking.

The shoulder planes body is made from Cr40 stress-relieved ductile steel and as you would expect, it has been machined square and flat. A shoulder plane is a wood working tool, used by carpenters, cabinet makers, joiners and DIYers for specific woodworking tasks.

The shoulder plane is the ideal tool for trimming shoulders and tenon faces, and because of its design it is used to trim right up to the edges of the wood being worked on. Other common woodworking tasks that a shoulder Shoulder Plane Blade Angle Number plane is used for are working on end grain, rabbets, and cleaning up dadoes.

A shoulder in wood working is the wooden surface that is perpendicular to the edge or face of the exposed end grain of the jointing member,. What is the difference between a shoulder plane and a rabbet plane? Some people think that a shoulder plane and a rabbet plane are the same tool, just given a different name, they are not.

The shoulder plane is intended for woodworking tasks that involve cutting end grain, a rabbet or rebate plane is not. With a shoulder plane, you will find that the iron is set at more of an acute angle to the sole of the tool than that of a rabbet plane.

The shoulder planes iron is set face down and square across the tool, and with the finer set mouth, much thinner wood shavings are possible. Sharpening a shoulder planes blade is something that has to be done from time to time to ensure that the shoulder plane is working to the best of its abilities.

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