Our saw has the 1" Resaw King blade and it tensions just fine but it is a thin blade. Try as we might, we could not bog down this 3-hp workhorse, even when resawing rikon vs laguna 14 bandsaw club oak and ash. Alaric Not the 20 minute Vss. I am concerned the upper wheel is out of balance some how. No issues with the ceramic guides whatsoever. I encountered some minor hiccups during the setup of the that I could have worked through on my own, but rikon vs laguna 14 bandsaw club I am writing a story on a stationary tool I like to get some exposure to the customer service for the company. I can not find anything that is the necessary 4.

He was extremely knowledgeable and seemed to know the pretty well in spite of the fact that it had been on the market for less than a week and I was the first customer to call in with a question. For me, this saw is a great value and was a tremendous Rikon Vs Laguna 14 Bandsaw Quick upgrade from my previous band saw. But for my needs, and those of most hobbyist and small shop professionals, the capacity, performance and value of the Laguna are superb.

Click here to cancel reply. It seems like that this information is very helpful for people searching for bandsaw blades. There is wide range of Bandsaw blades available from various companies and I hope you guys also sharing some more information in future too. Great suggestion, Betty. I use that for almost everything. It is good for occasional resawing as well. For Rikon Vs Laguna 14 Bandsaw Open bigger resaw runs I use the Resaw King from Laguna. This will be my first bandsaw! I love your review, and going out today and buy one for my basement shop.

Thanks so much…. Absolutely no drift with any of them. Thank you Jack for your post re: drift. This is the main reason I want to replace my current handsaw. The Laguna sounds like the answer to this frustrating problem. My best blade setup requires the gullet to be centered on the wheel and then everything falls right into place, especially for wider blades.

I have talked to the local manager of the Woodcraft store, and he was very honest in his comparison of both of the saws which he sells. Some of the reviews I have read, stated issues with the ceramic guides on the Laguna.

He stated that both saws are well designed and built but for relatively the same money, but he thought the Laguna was the better value. He also told me the Laguna will go on sale next mouth.

Hi, Alden. What would be a recommended Miter gauge for the ? I note that one is not supplied with the unit, yet there is a track for one! Just got my 14 12; great saw! Problem — the 4.

The metal grate inside the bandsaw dust port prevents attaching a reducer on the inside of the port, so it must go on the outside. I can not find anything that is the necessary 4. Greatly appreciate any guidance. Hope this helps. I just finished set-up of my Laguna yesterday. What beautiful beast! At first, things were going a little slow interpreting the instruction manual illustrations.

The thing that strikes me about this machine is its precision engineering and tight tolerances. Just a quality piece of equipment with no flimsy components. So, for a temporary test-run to check blade drift, I used a wrap of duct tape.

I have read some very negative comments on critical issues with the Rikon, especially with adjustment for the lower bearing guides.

Based on this review and the comments, I will soon be purchasing the Laguna saw. Great review and very detailed. Any thoughts on Laguna BX? Is it worth the upcharge for a break system. I am a hobby woodworker and had a 9 inch Black and Decker table top bandsaw. It went out with the trash after 10 years of frustration Not sure if I should go with the or BX.

Any long term updates you could share? I am going to buy a bandsaw soon and this is my likely choice. I too worry about the dust collection.

Hi Joe. The saw has continued to perform like a champ. I found that in practice the single dust collection port was not a problem. The inside of the cabinet remained pretty clean during heavy use and overall I feel that it collects well for a bandsaw. Just purchased one of these guys, this review helped a lot. Can you tell me the height of the stand?

The specs only have the height of the table and the height of the total machine. This is going to be a Birthday present by my Family to me I guess 70 is a magic number I have been looking for a while And it can be a little overwhelming. After prolonged discussions and email with Laguna customer service they agreed to replace both.

Yes, the locking knob is completly loose. Mechanism seems to fall apart when the wheel is loosened, and only is correctly by tightening it very tightly. The lower ones are pretty much inaccessible. I don't remember the tooth count on the Resaw King I had for the 14", but the Woodmaster is 1. I'm not trying to run down the smaller saws, but there is much more to it than simply size and hp. When people say it can't really tension a 1" blade, I think they are thinking Woodmaster, rather than Resaw King.

I don't remember the thicknesses of the Resaw King, and the Woodmaster CT, but the difference is significant. I don't see significant difference between a 14 and 15 inch saw. The 24" has about a 4 hp, and it never gets warm, even pushing it hard for a couple of hours.

Thanks, Tom. I went back and looked at the original video and both cuts took right at I could have cut it faster but there were several factors involved - this was the first time I had cut anything that wide, it wasn't my piece of wood someone sent it to me to cut , and it was expensive and there were no backup pieces if I messed this up.

But, this is just our little home shop and not a production facility so 90 seconds is fully acceptable to me. For us in our little setup that represented some cuts that demanded our attention. It's a good saw that I only use for resawing so the 1" Resaw King blade never comes off; I don't even have other blades other than a backup for this one.

I have a King-Seeley 12" that I use for everything else. In my particular situation, there are two issues that lead me away from a bandsaw mill and to one of the bandsaws I listed. The second is that you can't always have everything at least at once , and given the choice between a bandsaw mill with one primary purpose and a bandsaw that can perform routine bandsaw work and additionally do some mill work within it's capabilities , the later option seems like the best place to start.

My personal log milling will generally be the occasional fallen or dying tree as well as any cull trees trees harvested to allow more valuable nearby growing timber to prosper and consist of logs less than 14" in Rikon 10 Bandsaw Blades Mac diameter and typically cut into a 4'-6' section for easy handling.

Back at the shop, they will likely turn into 1" maybe up to 2" thick boards and stickered perhaps in a homemade solar kiln until dry and ready for use in whichever projects that happen to develop. Larger logs and more valuable timber that are not part of a scheduled harvest would be taken to the nearby commercial hardwood sawmill less than 4 miles away and sold, or perhaps a local Amish or similar mill for sale or processing.

I'm not looking at a lot of dedicated home milling and am basically focusing on utilizing what I have readily available and preventing it from simply becoming a piece of firewood or left to rot as forest debris. Being retired, time isn't a huge factor and thus I can deal with a slower speed of cut as well as a longer drying time for thicker stock before being resawn at a later date.

The additional shop-time and intricacies involved in home-harvested wood and processing can be rewarding in itself and my goal is to continue enjoying my retirement status and not become overly involved in a high production operation. From what I've been able to find online videos, forums, etc.

I truly DO appreciate all of the feedback and the other posts on this forum and the insight presented. The brain cells have kicked in to weigh each point and I am continuing to refine and further my research with the hope that the end result will bring many years of pleasure.

Check Craigslist near you to see if you can find a used, big bandsaw. We used it to resaw 10, lineal feet of Cypress shingles with it, as fast as the wood could be pushed through the saw-boards to a heaping pickup load of shingles in 2 hours. I've used it for resawing other stuff with it multiple times since that job, and am still using the same blade. A saw like that would have an easy time with what you want one to do.

I'm afraid you will be dissapointed with the new saws you are looking at, as far as their capability goes. I also have a 14" Delta, that belonged to my Dad, that has every available upgrade, so I am pretty familiar with what a 14" saw will do. I sold all the little used resaw blades I bought to try after the first day of use with the big guy.

I leave the 24" set up for resawing. Your shop has plenty of room for one. Whats that like You was moving Tom Cancelleri. It didn't take 10, lineal feet to fill up a pickup. I didn't count how many truck loads we got out of it. First we ripped it on a tablesaw without a fence to get rid of sapwood, and put a cut in the center of the arc of growth rings.

The next step was to cut the 8' boards into 2' lengths. I tied the switch on a chop miter saw. One helper pushed the board to the stop. I chopped the cut as fast as I could slam the saw down with my left hand, and handed the cutoff to the other helper who stacked them next to the bandsaw. All tools were stationed so fewest footsteps possible were made. I made a sled that the 2" board rode on to cut two tapered shingles out of it.

I pulled the sled back, first helper put a 2' board on, I pushed it through maybe 2 seconds-took 20 to 30 seconds on the 14" saw , and other helper took the two shingles off the sled, and stacked them in the truck, that was backed up close to the saw. The sled has safety stops on it, so no hand was every anywhere near the blade. The finished work can be seen on the Cypress shingles page on my website. This is not a hobby for me. The work is expensive, even at high efficiency. If I wasn't efficient, no one could afford it.

I found the Jet to be quite nice and I was feeling very comfortable with a possible purchase. Another dealer had the older Jet 14" on the showroom floor which seemed okay, and the Laguna 14" SUV right next to it which was also okay and I was able to give each a look and touch. Stopping at this point, I was leaning toward the 15" Jet still sight unseen. Then a complication set in The more I looked, the more I began to like the 18 BX.

Following a walk around the store to look at the many goodies the first time I had been there , I stopped back at the machine and conversed with the salesperson.

Needless to say, I am giving very serious consideration to the Laguna 18 BX to the point that I think I am leaning toward it. You're ready to move to a machine capable of tackling all curve-cutting, ripping, crosscutting, and resawing tasks in even the thickest and hardest wood species.

Thankfully, you don't have to jump to a pricey 18" or larger bandsaw to get these attributes. This class of 14" bandsaws—measured by wheel diameter—does it all. Ample resawing capacity. Start your search by focusing on the widest board the saw can rip standing on edge. Get as much capacity as possible, because you'll never wish you had less.

Having the ability to rip a wide board into thinner pieces opens up greater project options, such as bookmatched door panels or thin slabs laminated around a curved form. Resawing allows you to maximize the face showing surface of a prized piece of wood, such as spalted maple or quilted mahogany. A one-piece steel frame found on three of the bandsaws in this test provides " of resaw capacity. On the other hand, three of the C-frame saws—which look like big cast-iron C-clamps on bases--resaw only 6" out of the crate.

The C-frame Powermatic includes the riser-block kit as standard equipment. A riser-block kit comes with the block, a connecting bolt, and extended blade guards.

It takes about 20 minutes to install. Plenty of power. Cutting curves or ripping stock up to 2" thick won't challenge the power of any 14" bandsaw. But when you resaw--especially hardwoods 10" or wider—you need power in spades. For this, look at two factors.

First, the motor should be rated at least 1 hp, but go bigger if your budget and shop's electrical capacity can handle it. In our testing, the 3-hp Laguna 14SUV dominated the power showdown. The second Laguna 14bx 25hp Bandsaw 220v Red power factor: the wheels that drive the blade. Cast-iron wheels outperform aluminum ones because their greater weight generates more momentum to power the blade through a cut. This weight also dampens vibration, resulting in greater accuracy and cut quality.

Of the tested saws, all but the Delta have cast-iron wheels. Quality blade guides. A bandsaw with great power and cut capacities but lackluster blade guides is like a Mercedes without power steering. Adjustable blade guides mounted above and below the table prevent the blade from twisting or wandering side-to-side during cuts, greatly enhancing accuracy. The best guides prove easy to set and adjust, because you'll do this every time you change from one blade width to another.

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