The way this is set up I can either use the fence that came with the router or the extfnsion on the table saw if I need to rout a larger ridgid table saw router extension code. One less structure taking up space around my saw. A couple of reasons it sucked, It was not flat, it did not have slide tracks, and the cheap plywood never was smooth enough. After some research, I settled on these parts and picked the mup. Here is a caption of the cut file:. I notched out the back of the track.

This design uses three of the Ridgid Table Saw Router Insert Locations T-Tracks. Two for use with a fence that run top to bottom. The last one runs across for other uses. I picked this -Track layout, because I think I saw that in a picture somewhere so it must be a good idea right?

I just kept thinking about that heavy ass router bending and deflecting this over time. The Gen 1 taught me I needed the track, so I went for it and cut a. I have two that run down vertically for a router table fence and brought them up to the midpoint and one on the far side for whatever else I may want.

I intended to cut this out on Rosie so I did go a small step further and dog-boned the ends of this cut for good measure. It will save me the chisel time. I set the size of the Dogbone. Two support beams were added to help keep this Router table wing extension flush and straight.

Here is a caption of the cut file:. Yes, I could have done it by hand, but I was already stretching 2hrs into like 8hr 2day garage marathon. All I needed for this was a couple of clamps, my trusty Kreg jig and some TiteBond. When I use the Kreg, I like to test on a scrap part and run a screw thru the pocket hole. Here are some images of me pre-checking my screw depth, and hole pocket process:. After cutting and measuring I then did a dry-fit to make sure it all fits up as I expected.

I had one miss; there was a couple of pocket screws that went into my T-Track Slots. It was a quick fix, as I clipped off the end, and then re-installed the screw.

I highly recommend you dry fit, always dry fit! After passing the dry fit step, I glued it up and screwed it together. I know I might not need the glue with pocket screws but why not buy the extra protection? Next I took it outside and fit it up, and needed a couple more little tweaks. The T-Track would not accept the router table fence because there was no way to get the bolt in the track.

I notched out the back of the track. The Carriage bolts did not fit the TableSaw rails as well as I hoped. So, I had to grind them down on one side. The Slots were perfect sized and at the exact right elevation to keep the Router Wing Extension flush with the table saw. But the washers I was using were too large for the space that I had. Doesn't have to be anything fancy - just to take the load off the rails. Handiest upgrade you can make to any table saw - and your router table will actually get used more!

Reply 6 years ago on Introduction. This one has a cast iron center with pressed steel wings. It's still heavy, but not compared to a cabinet saw. I thought about bracing it, but the router is not all that heavy and the rails are very solid. The brace may also make it a little tricky to store I tuck the saw under the my workbench when not in use. May have to reconsider if I detect any signs of strain. Reply 5 years ago on Introduction. Am in the process of building my router table add on.

Great idea buying a compact table and retro fitting it to your saw. I just purchased this saw. The center section is still cast iron. They no longer make either wing out of cast iron. And am in the process of building my router table. What a cool idea buying a compact table and retro fitting it into the table. I agree with your support idea. I think this idea is great but I would be concerned about stressing the rails. I route heavy hard wood stock sometimes which requires heavy pressure against the fence to get a nice clean cut and I would be afraid of bending the rails and bringing my table saw out of square or worse.

Just completed this on my tablesaw. Instead of cutting out a dado for the switch, I removed it from the table and relocated it to the front edge of the support frame. Great instrucable, and your measurements were bang on! I built a shaper table for my portable Rigid table saw Yes, I have the very first year they made the saw about years ago and still use it. Mine is not nearly as well put together as yours, but I built the top surface from Lexan, so I can also remove it and use it as a circle jig.

I'm suddenly feeling inspired to make a new one. If so, I'll post pics. Get back to Canadian Tire or Harbor Freight tools and buy an inexpensive foot controller for the router. I use mine like a dead man switch, so that I can turn the machine on and off without leaning down or looking away from the project. Good idea The nice thing about this unit is they power off and on using the same switch.

Only if the sum of the amps required on each tool is less than the rating on the switch. Since each tool is unique, you'll have to check it out. I've been putting off doing the same for my shop for a while now, and just this past week I had an Eureka moment. Two birds, one stone. One less structure taking up space around my saw. Actually two less. Still, you're spot on with your thinking. Routers and saws take up lots of room in your shop, and this brings your workpiece out into the center of the room where you have the most ability to move about.

Good idea. One good reason to put the router table in between the fence rails os so you can use the table saw fence with your router table. That is how I use mine. By makendo Instagram makend0 Follow. More by the author:. About: Analog maker dabbling in digital manufacture More About makendo ».

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