The Radial Arm Saw -- a Guide of Sorts: The radial arm saw is a very versatile machine around which a whole shop can be built. It is one machine that allows a number of operations normally requiring different specific machines. Unfortunately, electric miter saws have displaced the radia   Homemade radial arm saw miter jig constructed from particle board, wood, and hardware. Woodworking Drill Press Learn Woodworking Woodworking Patterns Popular Woodworking Woodworking Bench Woodworking Projects Woodworking Workshop Woodworking Articles Woodworking Jigsaw.  Radial-Arm Saw Stopblock Woodworking Plan. A length stop on your radial-arm saw fence makes repetitive cut more accurate. "radial arm saw". Compound Miter Saw, TACKLIFE Inch Double Sliding Miter Saw With 15 Amp Motor, Double-Bevel Cutting (°-0°°), Dual Slide Rail Design, Extensible Table, 40T Blade for Versatile Material Cutting. out of 5 stars $$ $ coupon applied at checkout Save $ with coupon. "miter saw". DEWALT Inch Miter Saw, Amp, Single Bevel, Compound (DWS). The radial arm saw was once a major player in the woodworking machinery world. They have since been replaced by the sliding miter saw, which is portable.  It was a very good saw. Soon after I bought it I starting producing bathroom vanities for my father’s plumbing business, so he got over his initial anger. What these machines were best at was cross-cutting wide boards. That is of course, provide they were well made. I did own a Craftsman with Electronic controls, which was supposed to be the newest rage in accuracy. I found that part of it was okay, but the saw had a steel track which was not straight. The larger size will enhance the overtones second overtone, Hz and up and you will hear lower notes than without lusing ong tubes, but it will not be the actual C2 note. Support Line :. You radial arm saw jig plans zone measure the frequency for note verification using any number of software programs listed here. This acoustic harmonic relationship has no connection to the radio frequency definition of harmonics. Building and Construction — Knowledge of materials, methods, and the tools involved in the construction or repair of houses, buildings, or other structures such as highways and roads. Session Soak a small waw paint brush or dry rag with the toilet bowl cleaner and completely coat the chime.

Monitor Processes, Materials, or Surroundings — Monitoring and reviewing information from materials, events, or the environment, to detect or assess problems. Updating and Using Relevant Knowledge — Keeping up-to-date technically and applying new knowledge to your job.

Organizing, Planning, and Prioritizing Work — Developing specific goals and plans to prioritize, organize, and accomplish your work.

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All 20 displayed. Disassemble equipment for maintenance or repair. Maintain work equipment or machinery. Repair worn, damaged, or defective mechanical parts.

Replace worn, damaged, or defective mechanical parts. Observe equipment in operation to detect potential problems. Test mechanical equipment to ensure proper functioning. Adjust equipment to ensure optimal performance. Clean equipment, parts, or tools to repair or maintain them in good working order. Lubricate equipment to allow proper functioning.

Reassemble equipment after repair. Inspect mechanical equipment to locate damage, defects, or wear. Analyze test or performance data to assess equipment operation. Order materials, supplies, or equipment. Record information about parts, materials or repair procedures. Maintain repair or maintenance records.

Interpret blueprints, specifications, or diagrams to inform installation, development or operation activities. Cut materials according to specifications or needs. Operate welding equipment.

Enter codes or other information into computers. Train others in operational procedures. All 35 displayed. Related Experience Previous work-related skill, knowledge, or experience is required for these occupations. For example, an electrician must have completed three or four years of apprenticeship or several years of vocational training, and often must have passed a licensing exam, in order to perform the job.

Job Training Employees in these occupations usually need one or two years of training involving both on-the-job experience and informal training with experienced workers. A recognized apprenticeship program may be associated with these occupations. Job Zone Examples These occupations usually involve using communication and organizational skills to coordinate, supervise, manage, or train others to accomplish goals.

Examples include hydroelectric production managers, travel guides, electricians, agricultural technicians, barbers, court reporters, and medical assistants. SVP Range 6. All 16 displayed. Dependability — Job requires being reliable, responsible, and dependable, and fulfilling obligations.

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All 10 displayed. Other Services Except Public Administration. Was this page helpful? Follow us:. Another alternate support was submitted by Bud Thanks : I place a copper wire into a copper pipe and threaded it thru one of the hanging holes, then solder it to the pipe then cut and grind the excess flat with the tube , and the same for the other hanging hole.

Now I have 2 copper wires coming out the inside top of the pipe. I chuck them up to a drill motor and twist, being careful not to kink the wire. Twisting will center the wires in the tube and leave a good looking single wire coming out the center of the pipe. This also would work with steel tubing.

This seems to work okay and it looks cool with the twisted wire. End Cap, the second support location is when the chime tube is supported by a cable or cord through a hole in an end cap. It is important to understand that the end cap lowers the fundamental frequency and some associated overtones from values calculated by the DIY calculator or Pre-calculated charts.

The good news is that the end cap noticeably increases the duration for the first overtone and the chime has a much more bell-like sound. Look at these two spectral waterfall displays and specifically compare the hang time of the 1st overtone for each.

You will notice a considerable increase in sustain time for the end cap supported tube. Caution : be certain to solder the end caps in place. An unsoldered or loose fitting end cap will completely kill the resonance. An end cap must contact the entire circumference at the end of the chime to function properly. Waterfall display for a chime tube supported by a hole in the end cap. Similar to the traditional orchestra chime Waterfall display for a chime tube supported at the traditional fundamental frequency node.

You might be tempted to inset a screw eye at the end, but I can assure you that will completely kill the resonance. Resonance for a tube or rod can easily be killed by touching the end.

The end cap is a special case that allows resonance to exist without seriously reducing the sustain time. But adding a screw eye or any amount of mass to the end can kill the sustain time for a rod. The easy solution that works very well is to drill a small hole in the end of the rod and epoxy a 50 pound 22 Kg woven fishing line into the hole.

First tie a knot at the end prior to inserting the line into the hole. This low mass and flexible connection do not impact the resonance and provides an easy method for connection.

This fun and easy DIY project has a couple of important requirements. First, mounting follows the same requirement as above, i. Rubber grommets help to minimize the reduction of sustain time caused by a firm mounting, but are not absolutely necessary for this application.

Rubber has a tendency to deteriorate over time and the use of a nylon or plastic sleeve would be a good alternate. Firm and strong mounting is definitely a requirement for the playground environment, but we need to prevent squeezing the tube at the mounting location.

Careful adjustment, when tightening bolts, can prevent this squeeze. Keep the mounting somewhat firm to prevent the undesirable BUZZ caused by loose mounting. Flexible grommets allow a firm mounting that will prevent the buzz. Support Line :. You want to keep the distance between the chimes and the support desk quite short no matter how they are aligned.

Longevity for a chime is important and careful attention to the support lines and thru holes should be considered. Non metallic support line: Make sure the line is UV resistant. De-burring: depending on where the support line exits the chime, from the inside or outside, one or the other sharp edges of the thru hole require de-burring. An easy method to de-burr the outside edges of the thru hole is to use a larger drill bit to slightly chamfer the outer edges.

If the inside edge of the thru hole is of concern, first remove the burr using a long round file or sandpaper on a stick. By hand, insert the smooth shaft end of the drill bit or other hardened steel rod into the hole and rotate in a circular motion, careful not to break the drill bit.

This motion will tend to further chamfer the outside edge and help to burnish the inner edge of the hole. Rubber, plastic or metal grommets or eyelets are encouraged, but small sizes can be a challenge to locate. Small eyelets can often be located at your local hobby store in the sewing department or at shoe repair store. Remove the nail-like center and just use the rivet.

Sources: include Home Depot or Lowes for heat shrink tubing, eyelets from the hobby store in the sewing department or a shoe repair store. Grommets can be from a hardware store, the model airplane store or the hobby store. The knot in the support line or wire can be mostly hidden by use of a countersink hole when using thru holes to anchor the line to the support disk.

Pictured below are a few examples for anchoring the line. Jigs to position the chime for attaching support line or chain : After you have selected the alignment configuration, top, center or bottom, a simple jig can assist the installation of the support line.

To the right are three possible jigs, a square-grove jig and a v-grove jig, both with red adjustable stops for alignment. A third jig made from a section of cardboard or wood strip can work well.

Scribe a mark for the bottom, center, or top alignment on the jig. Begin with the longest chime and select an appropriate length for the attachment line from the chime to the support point on the support disk or ring and locate a nail, a pencil mark, or the adjustable post at that location on the jig.

Place the longest chime on the template and secure with tape, a clamp or maybe lay a book on it. Stretch the line up to the reference post and tie a loop or a knot or mark with a felt tip pen. Repeat with the remainder of the chime set using the scribed reference mark. For center aligned chimes attach a small section of masking tape to the center of the chime and scribe the chime center location on the tape.

Deburr inside hole using stick and sandpaper. Chamfer outside hole using an oversized drill bit. Outside hole with aluminum eyelet. Eyelets do not protect the line from the inside edge.

Use only for thru line. Heat shrink tubing can protect the line from the sharp inside edge of the hole. Shrinkable tubing in place and operational. Good place to use heat shrink tubing. Eyelets required for the outside edge only. Number 12 copper wire bends easily to form an inverted V. Double support line for an unusually heavy chime. Half wrap hides the knot inside the chime. A solid pin with single line support eliminates wear and tear on the connection.

Generic layout patterns are also included Support disk calculator with points on a circle Calculator included Zip Kb You may wish to calculate you own dimensions for the top support disk using the support disk calculator. You decide the chime diameter CD , the striker diameter SD and the clearance between the striker and the chime tube D. The calculator provides the correct location for placing the chimes on radius R and the spacing between the chimes CS , and the diameter of the support disk PD.

Instructions for use are included with the calculator. Also included is a location calculator for points on a circle. Uses include automatic calculations for locating chimes on a radius, and points used to draw a multisided polygon such as a star striker or support disk arranged as a star, a pentagon, a hexagon or an octagon etc.

An easy lookup table is provided for locating 3 to 8 points. Rather than using a protractor to layout the angles for the shape of your polygon, select the number of points and the radius R for those points, and the calculator provides you with the distance between points.

Adjust a compass to the distance L and walk the compass around the circle to locate the points. If you want to avoid using the above calculator, an easy work-around is to select an appropriate generic pattern from the Support disk and striker patterns document and scribe the accurate location for support holes using the pattern.

Chime Location Sequence. A circular striker will typically strike one chime at a time but can simultaneously strike two chimes.

When this happens you can enhance the overall sound by placing widely separated notes next to each other For example, below are location suggestions with chime number 1 as the shortest and moving upwards in length as the location numbers increase. A circular ring or hoop provides an open air and see thru appearance. Support rings can be cut from an out of service aluminum fire extinguisher.

Strip paint and brush with a wire wheel. Use an abrasive metal cutting saw blade in a radial arm saw, a chop saw or a table saw.

Chain, decorative cord, or braided fishing line can be used with this top support hoop. Use the generic patterns document to mark the 3-point mount location holes and a generic pattern matching your number of chimes. Chrome plated steel rings and hoops in a variety of sizes from hobby stores and online. Support disk cut from. Screw eyes or thru hoes support the chain or cord.

If the star pattern is used for the striker it can be duplicated for the top support. You can also use the chime set as a birdhouse. Pets, sports logo or a favorite hobby can adorn the top of the chime disk. A decorative hand painted funnel or pan lid adds uniqueness to the set.

A rawhide-covered baseball or softball can work well for wind chimes, but only in an extremely high wind environment where there is ample strike energy from the sail. An orchestra chime is struck with gusto, but a wind chime often has little strike energy.

Typically there is little strike energy from normal winds so preserving and applying that energy is the challenge. Design considerations below include single or multiple strikers, the shape, weight, material, suspension, motion, and strike location. An important consideration for a bell-like chime is the location for the Strike Zone. The optimum location is at the very end of the tubular chime because this location will assure that all possible overtones are energized to the maximum.

This should not be surprising since orchestra chimes are struck at the end. An easy solution to assuring the strike occurs at the very end of the chime is to use bottom alignment and a tapered striker as shown in striker suggestions.

Often you will see the center selected as the strike location for a tubular bell wind chime, perhaps for aesthetic reasons.

When the exact center of the chime is struck the odd numbered overtones can fail to energize, and the resulting sound can be very clunky even though the even numbered overtones were well energized. While I recommend striking the end of the chime, there are good aesthetic reasons to align the chimes for a center alignment or a top alignment.

The ideal strike zone is about 1 inch from the end, or about an inch below the center, line as pictured below. All three locations work okay when you keep the striker away from dead center, which is a dead zone for the first overtone.

Don't worry much about killing the first overtone with center placement. Strike zone for top, bottom or center alignment Top Aligned chimes Find the center line for the longest chime and position the striker at least an inch or more below that center line. Anywhere in the green section above.

Bottom Aligned chimes Find the center line for the shortest chime and position the striker at least an inch or more below that center line. Center Aligned chimes Find the center line for all chimes and position the striker at least an inch or more below the center line. The Striker Shape is most often circular because the chimes are located in circle. An alternate shape is the circular traveling radial striker which can be effective for striking a musical chord.

The radial striker most often takes the shape of an open star or a closed star, like the keeper-striker pictured here. A circular striker will typically contact one or maybe two chimes simultaneously. However, the star shaped striker can synchronously contact most all the chimes. The loudness of the chimes struck with a star striker is somewhat reduced compared to the circular striker because the strike energy has been distributed among the various chimes.

Transparent Closed Star Keeper-Striker: Site visitor and chime set builder, Dennis Wagner, devised a nifty method to gain the advantage of a keeper-striker, yet maintain a clean and transparent look. Striker Weight: A heavy striker for large chimes and a lighter weight striker for smaller chimes, is mostly true.

Depending on your typical wind there may be occasions when you need a light weight striker for large chimes. Near the seashore, winds can be rather strong and you may need to soften the strike with a light weight striker or switch to a rawhide-covered baseball or softball.

Considerable strike energy can be achieved by using an oak disk machined to a knife-edge and loaded with a 1oz weight. See striker suggestions below.

Striker Distance from Chimes : It is difficult to predict the optimum distance from the edge of the striker to the chime for a new design and often requires experimentation. Additional factors effecting overall performance are striker weight, wind sail size, sail weight and average wind conditions in the area.

I generally begin with a 1-inch separation and begin testing. Don't hesitate to abandon your original striker or sail and try a different separation or a different wind sail.

Your effort will be rewarded when you hit that magic combination. Often, I will try about three strikers and two or three sails before finding the perfect combination. Striker Material: The choice of material depends somewhat on the note selection. If there is good movement from the wind sail, then a circular disk striker soft sided but heavy can be used for the larger diameter chimes say above 2 inches , particularly for lower frequency chimes.

Note: when drilling a center hole in the hockey puck, the drill bit wants to grab and force its way through the rubber and may drill off-center. A drill press woks best but again, secure the puck. The rawhide helps to produce a very mellow strike in a strong wind. Smaller diameter higher frequency chimes benefit from a harder wood like white oak, teak or Osage-orange aka hedge-apple. Be sure to coat the striker with a UV resistant coating.

On the other hand, a well performing star-striker should be from a relatively hard material, yet light weight, allowing for a quick response to circular movements. The loudness of chimes struck with a star striker is reduced, compared to the circular striker, because the strike energy has been distributed among the various chimes, and a harder material is required for a strong strike.

Keep it Clean: A dirty strike can energize a host of unwanted spurious sideband frequencies as demonstrated by the steel striker in the blue spectrum display below. A most melodious bell sound is achieved with a softer strike that energizes overtones without spurious sidebands, as shown in the purple spectrum display below.

Both strikers produced equal loudness for the fundamental while the steel striker did a better job of energizing overtones louder but at the expense of unwanted dirty sidebands.

The wood striker hard maple produced a most melodious bell sound while the metal strike was harsh and annoying. The Conceal and Carry Chime hides a lead or steel striker on the inside the chime for large diameters chimes, mostly above two inches as pictured left and right.

This technique is seldom used unless the chime set is large or becomes annoying, caused by the traditional disk striker in high winds. Because the distance is insufficient for the striker to gain momentum and strike with gusto, the inside striker could be a good solution to quieting chimes in high winds.

If you're looking for a muted sound from a large set, maybe 4 inches and above, this technique is useful. The striker can be a steel ball or a lead weight, normally used as a sinker for fishing, and can be any of the following: a cannon ball sinker, a bell sinker, a bank sinker or an egg sinker.

Wrap the sinker with about two layers of black electrical tape to prevent the harsh sound from a metal strike yet still provide a strong but muted strike. Support for the striker string or line from can be from the same point you use to support the chime tube. This helps keep the disk horizontal during rapid and sudden movements from high winds.

A stiff wire, like coat hanger wire, can be used as an axle as shown below in striker suggestions. Striker Motion: I happen to live in a wooded area with little wind and have struggled to achieve good strike energy from low winds.

With that in mind, I set out to improve the low wind performance of the striker. The objective is to maximize striker movement with little input energy from the sail. The easy solution was to resonant the support line that supports both the striker and the sail using the Radial Arm Saw Jig Plans List second mode bending principle. This resonance will help to amplify and sustain the motion of the striker with little input energy from the sail.

Even though the sail moves in the wind, it will act as an anchor for the resonant movement of the striker. You can easily recognize this movement by using both hands to hold a string vertically and have a second person pluck the center of the string. The natural resonance of the string will cause the center to vibrate. If you position the striker at the exact center between the top and the sail you can achieve this resonance.

It is difficult to provide an exact ratio between the weight of the striker and the weight of the sail. Depending on the actual weight for both the ratios can be quite different. I realize that if you use a CD as the sail a lighter weight striker can be difficult to achieve.

A heavy striker is difficult to resonant regardless of the weight for the sail. Once you have a striker you like then a little experimenting with the sail maybe required to achieve good resonance. When resonance is working well you will notice as the sail comes to rest, the striker will continue to bounce off the chimes for a few more strikes, an indication the striker is dissipating the stored energy Radial Arm Saw Jig Plans Me from resonance.

Notice the large movement of the striker compared with little movement from the sail. Bullet nose wood striker with turnbuckle axle maximizes strike energy. My favorite. Knife edge wood disk. Bullet nose wood striker with hollow axle or wire axle maximizes strike energy. Knife edge disk striker with weight and axle. Close up for tapered edge wood striker with weight and axle. Tapered edge wood striker with axle allows striking the end of the chime edge for maximum strike energy.

Typical arrangement for a tapered edge striker with axle for bottom aligned chimes. Typical tapered edge striker with axle for bottom aligned chimes. A sculptured tapered edge striker adds a decorative touch for striking the edge of the chime end. A sculptured tapered edge striker assures contact with the very end edge of the chime. Animation for a 5-point open radial striker that rotates on contact with the chime bouncing back and forth effectively striking a chord or most of the chord.

The open star radial striker loudness is reduced compared to the traditional round striker. The closed star radial striker works great for maintaining alignment in high wind conditions and produces a more subtle strike.

Multipliable configurations exist to achieve a radial strike. This one might be appropriate for someone working in the nuclear business. Enameled coat hanger wire works well for an axle. Conceal and Carry The chime carries a concealed lead striker inside a 2 Inch diameter or larger chime, and provides a unique style with a more subtle strike.

A billiard ball or croquet ball are choices for a strong strike on a small chime. Test first for harshness. Can be too strong for some. Traditional wind sails generally work well and can be configured with a variety of materials, sizes and shapes as shown in the document on the right.

My dissatisfaction with the traditional wind sail is that single-direction winds have a tendency to cause the sail to swing like a pendulum. That arrangement will swing the sail both to and from the direction of the wind, not allowing the striker to contact adjacent chimes.

That affect sounds much like a dingdong, dingdong as the striker hits only two chimes. As you may know, wind close to the ground can behave differently than winds aloft, and often does not blow horizontally as intuition would suggest.

Instead, it is a multidirectional force with an ample amount of wind shear. You probably noticed the swirling motion mixed with single-direction winds and the random uphill and downhill movement pitch and yaw. Perhaps we can exploit this force to make a better wind sail. Let's take advantage of this turbulence to create a striker movement that is somewhat rotational in nature and does a better job of striking all the chimes.

If you want to build a bi-directional wind vane here is a concept drawing displayed i n 3D-PDF. The metal components are soldered together and the vertical support post is rounded at the top. See video here 1. You may need to glue the line in place for the long term.

A second solution is to hang the sail perfectly horizontal. Counter intuitive, I agree, but depending on your particular type of wind it can work surprising well, particularly if the chime set is hung from a high deck or beyond the first story of the building and the wind is particularly turbulent.

Site visitor David writes to offer an alternate method for tilting the sail. Place the support line in the hole of the CD and tie to the line an object larger than the hole such as a shot piece of dowel rod or colorful section of cloth.

Now you have a tilted sail and a sun sail, all-in-one. See picture at left. Thanks David. A third solution is to make sure the top support disk can easily rotate in a circular direction. Hang the top support disk not from a fixed ring or hook but from a single support line as pictured to the right. The very nature of the wind will catch enough of the chimes to rotate the entire set allowing the pendulum motion of the sail to strike more of the chimes.

A fourth solution can be the radial traveling star strike r described above. The very nature of the star striker is to quickly rotate CW and CCW from any input motion of the sail, even from straight line winds, and this motion will easily avoid the dingdong sound. Need More Dingdong? We just got done solving the dingdong and now you want more! Yes, there is a condition when excessive pendulum movement of the sail is useful and not sufficiently supplied by the tradition wind sail.

With the development of the keeper-striker or the radial-striker, both of which are very effective in striking a musical chord, there is a need for a robust movement of the striker.

The radial striker produces a more muted sound because the strike energy is simultaneously distributed among all the chimes by moving in a circular motion. Thus the need for a more robust strike. Jerk , Jolt, Surge and Lurch: We often describe the motion of an object in terms of displacement, velocity, or acceleration. However, an additional motion description is the rate of change of acceleration, although seldom used.

The unit of measurement is often termed jerk but is also known as jolt, surge, or lurch. Jerk supplies the sudden and rapid motion from the wind sail to the rotary keeper-striker. Introducing Orthogonal Sailing : We have developed a special wind sail to solve the need for more jerk.

As mention above, a normal wind sail will mostly swing to and from the direction of the wind; however, the orthogonal sail has the unique ability to fly aggressively at right angles to the wind direction. If the wind is from the North the sail will fly East and West. Construction details are in the Handbook and available here. The orthogonal sail can be dangerous. We do not recommend hanging the chime set where the sail can contact children, adults, or animals.

The sail makes no noise and can swing a full degrees in a half circle motion. This quiet operation and wide swing can cause people to be unaware of the danger. The sail is flat thin metal and can possibly cut the skin or damage an eye as it swings. No Sailing Today: Long and large diameter chimes present a considerable surface area to the wind and can move sufficiently to cause a good strike without the need for a wind sail.

In addition, the large diameter striker, often associated with a large chime set, can capture adequate wind for a good strike. Depending on the distance between the striker and the chime tube, not all chime sets require a sail.

Pictured right are closely spaced chimes that easily contact the striker with low to moderate winds. Because of the short distance between the striker and the chime tube, the strike is not robust but adequate.

The best solution for you will depend on your type of wind. You may need to try a few different sails for success. Windless Chimes On occasion there may be times when you want a set of chimes in a windless environment, or even outdoors in a low wind environment like a heavily wood area. Using an electromagnet to repel a high intensity magnet at the end of the striker rod can provide you with endless possibilities.

Typically named chaos engine, this arrangement can produce a random movement for the striker. Powered by either VAC or a 12 VDC solar charged battery, the electromagnet is controlled by a circuit board with an adjustable strike rate. You can design your individual set of windless chimes using components purchased from Roger Sonntag at Sonntag Creations formerly Newton's Flying Magnets.

Below is a short video demonstrating some of the possibilities. Contact: sonntagcreations gmail. Based on physical measurements can we pre-determine a musical note for these tanks? To the best of my research I do not find a mathematical method for calculating a musical note for these tanks. Both the neck-end and the base-end seriously alter the vibration performance of the cylinder rendering existing formulas useless.

Do not use any formula, table or chart on this website to predict tanks musical performance. The frequency spectrum does not always follow the traditional overtone pattern for a chime tube and can include a host of additional overtones normally associated with the bell-like sound.

See the spectrum diagram to the right. Energizing all the overtones and avoiding the harsh sound when using a metal striker can be a challenge. A golf ball or baseball can work well but requires a robust strike to properly energize the overtones. I have not had good success using a wood striker unless it's a really robust strike not typically possible with a normal wind sail. Tank Length Matters or Maybe Not?

A most perplexing situation can exist for some tank lengths. All chimes for sets D and E sounded distinctly different and each had a different height, and a different fundamental frequency and overtone structure; however, not true for sets A, B, and C.

In comparison, each chime in set A sounded exactly the same and had nearly identical fundamental frequencies and nearly identical overtones, but represented three different lengths. The same was true for sets B and C. There was a slight difference in timbre among the bells, but a considerable difference in length for each set. Set B has both a neck-end and a base-end chime from a compressed-gas cylinder. While both chimes strike almost exactly the same fundamental frequency Hz vs.

Tank B was more melodious than tank A but not a lot The difference in overtone structure is pictured to the right. I investigated circular mode resonance which is a function of just material type, OD and wall thickness, and not length, as a possible explanation for this effect. Unfortunately the circular mode resonance was considerably lower than the observed resonance and offered no correlation to the actual measurements.

The calculated vs. I remain a bit perplexed on exactly why length appears to have little effect on the fundamental frequency and the overtones structure above some critical length point. Clearly this was not a rigorous scientific test, but enough to cause concern and points to need for further investigation.

Pictured below are a couple of tank chime examples from site visitor Grey Yahn from Pennsylvania. If you're new to cutting metal and looking for an easy method, I use an abrasive metal cutting saw blade in a radial arm saw and it works equally well with a cut-off saw, aka chop-saw. Using the wrong type of abrasive disk can cause a dangerous explosion The traditional tubing cutter or hacksaw works well also. Definitely use safety glasses.

Make certain the tank is safe for handling, is completely empty fill with water and empty to assure all gases are exhausted , and is safe for cutting. Wear all recommended safety equipment including eye protection, hearing protection and respiratory protection.

The tanks are heavy and can be dangerous when handling, use extreme caution. The chime tube can be stained, dyed, anodized or painted. However, avoid thick heavy coats of latex as they seriously reduce the sustain time and can kill the resonance. Patina finish on steel: Site visitor and artist, Roger Deweese, has successfully applied a metal dye to produce some amazing patina finishes for his tank bell chimes.

Read here about the procedure Roger employed. T he Aged Copper Patina Look : a site visitor sent me a procedure to artificially age copper to provide the patina appearance. The procedure works well and pictured to the left are the satisfactory results. I have included the procedure here for your reference. Be patient with this procedure , it can take several days to complete but the results are terrific.

You will need two commonly available chemicals to complete this process. The first is a rust remover that contains phosphoric acid. Secondly, a toilet bowl cleaner that contains either hydrochloric or sulfuric acid. Read the content labels carefully and look for any brand of rust remover that contains phosphoric acid and a toilet bowl cleaner that has either hydrochloric or sulfuric acid in your local store. These are dangerous chemicals.

Wear safety glasses, old clothes, rubber gloves and follow all manufactures safety recommendations. If the chemical gets on your skin wash immediately with a liberal amount of water.

Use in a well ventilated area. Begin by cutting your chime tubes to length and make any length adjustments necessary for tuning.

De-burr and remove any sharp edges from both ends and the support hole. Decide how you are going to support the chime, using either end caps or a support line at the Attach a temporary line to support the chime vertically. This temporary line will get messy and can be discarded at the end of this procedure. I also used a fine grade steel wool to lightly scrub the surface. Dry completely. Soak a small soft paint brush or dry rag with the rust remover and completely coat the chime.

Allow to drip-dry. This could take from a few hours to three days depending on your local humidity. This step slightly etches the surface of the copper in preparation for the next chemical step. When the chime is completely dry remove the dried rust remover from the chime using a dry cloth. Do not use water. Soak a small soft paint brush or dry rag with the toilet bowl cleaner and completely coat the chime.

This could take from a few hours to a few days depending on your local humidity. A second coat will help to improve the patina look. This step causes the bluish green patina to develop in the etched surface and will darken the smooth surfaces. Allow a few days to dry and the chime should ready for handling to install the final support lines.

The finished chime may not look like the picture above when newly completed. It can take a few weeks to completely darken and turn green in spots. Re-application of the toilet bowl cleaner may be necessary. I have had this patina set of chimes for several years and the patina look gets better every year and holds up well in all kinds of weather.

Artificial aging copper for the patina appearance Cleaned and ready for the process. Tube on the left sanded with grit sand paper, the right tube cleaned with steel wool. First coat of rust remover applied. Rust remover dried. Excess rust remover wiped with a rag. First coat of toilet bowel cleaner containing hydrochloric acid applied. First coat of toilet bowel cleaner dried. Second coat of toilet bowl cleaner dried. At this stage it doesn't look like much happened but be patient, it gets better with time and weather.

After a few weeks in the weather. After several months in the weather. Reapplied the toilet bowel cleaner. Completed process. Sparkling Copper: An easy way to obtain the sparkling copper look is to sand the surface of the copper chime using an orbital sander with about grit sand paper. This will completely expose fresh copper and leave behind orbital scratches on the surface.

Coat the sanded chime with a clear spray lacquer or a spray polyurethane to preserve the new copper look. See picture to the right. Document Information click to expand document information Date uploaded Mar 26, Did you find this document useful? Is this content inappropriate?

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